1987 4Runner Cyber Dude
#721
Well, I forgot this weekend is a long weekend and got a lot of honey stuff to do so there goes work on the truck for now. To top it off come Tuesday I've got federal jury duty, taking the long trip back and forth with public transportation considering the traffic and cost or lack of parking. Well there goes my month... Besides which it been raining or trying to rain in my zip.
By the way, I was at Wallyworld and the only thing i found as far as metal bonding was JB Weld so i picked up a pack. Hopefully this does better than the other stuff, I read somewhere the original JB weld holds stronger. If this doesn't work I'm going to say screw that and spot weld it since I don't have a tack welder. I just want to put it back together to give that hood sheet metal some strength.
By the way, I was at Wallyworld and the only thing i found as far as metal bonding was JB Weld so i picked up a pack. Hopefully this does better than the other stuff, I read somewhere the original JB weld holds stronger. If this doesn't work I'm going to say screw that and spot weld it since I don't have a tack welder. I just want to put it back together to give that hood sheet metal some strength.
#722
Registered User
Junk, looks like you've done a lot of little things lately. I also need to panel bond my hood to the frame, side interested to see what you find. Yeah this rain lately is ridiculous.
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junk4u (09-03-2018)
#723
I was going to sneak a little work on the hood early this morning, but it turns out we are in middle of tropical storm warning which means heavy rain and gusting winds. Oh well I guess that does it for today as the weather reports states tropical storming warning since tropical storm gordon formed over night just south of us or at the tip of south florida. Winds here are blowing pretty good and the rain is just pouring they say that its going to continue this way till 5pm today.
Well there goes anything outside for this holiday.
Last edited by junk4u; 09-03-2018 at 06:03 AM.
#725
Registered User
Junk - well, at least things should be cooling off here (hopefully) in the next few weeks. To me the summer is almost too hot to do anything outside besides swim in the pool.
#726
Well Yesterday I started to ready stuff to see if I could try out that JB Weld on the Hood, but other stuff took over. By the time I was free I was too tired to do anything and it was already late in the evening.
I got up early in the morning started putting things together again and it looked like a great day sun shining just a few clouds, so i thought to myself I may just be able to spray some 2k filler primer on the cab and the gas door. Well it started to rain and has been raining for MOL 2hrs here.Can't say I'm happy with that that just meaning I have to cut the grass again with all this water the grass grows in about 2 days over an 1".
Also, never got that Alternator for that guy up in Ft Lauderdale as he never did contact me back as to where we could meet up with him, so i guess I'm gone see about getting a bearing replacement for it.
I got up early in the morning started putting things together again and it looked like a great day sun shining just a few clouds, so i thought to myself I may just be able to spray some 2k filler primer on the cab and the gas door. Well it started to rain and has been raining for MOL 2hrs here.Can't say I'm happy with that that just meaning I have to cut the grass again with all this water the grass grows in about 2 days over an 1".
Also, never got that Alternator for that guy up in Ft Lauderdale as he never did contact me back as to where we could meet up with him, so i guess I'm gone see about getting a bearing replacement for it.
#727
Okay I got a little bit done today even with the weather playing tricks on me. All day I keep trying to start doing something it would dark up. So I would hold off doing anything that could get damaged if it were to rain. Here's a pic of the sky late this afternoon and it pretty much looked like that all day. but with darker clouds.
This was the better part of the day, but it never rained even so.
What I started anyhow was sticking that frame back on the hood sheet.
We'll see how it holds up tomorrow since it take about 4-6hours to cure. If it holds up I'll prime the hood and maybe even the cab of the truck less around the windshield. Been looking around for some sheet metal 20ga cold rolled to see about starting making some repair patch panels. Hopefully I'll fine a good place around me that sells it.
This was the better part of the day, but it never rained even so.
What I started anyhow was sticking that frame back on the hood sheet.
We'll see how it holds up tomorrow since it take about 4-6hours to cure. If it holds up I'll prime the hood and maybe even the cab of the truck less around the windshield. Been looking around for some sheet metal 20ga cold rolled to see about starting making some repair patch panels. Hopefully I'll fine a good place around me that sells it.
#730
Okay, just a note that the bonding on the hood frame to hood sheet metal didn't work. I've established why though that it doesn't work in my case. A while back i sprayed rubberized coating on the underside of the hood and the coat even though I scrub and degrease still won't allow any product to really stick to it that is petrol terrified. Oh well that'll be for another time. I have the hood from the 86 4runner that has the same issue, I'll sand that down to bare metal when I'm ready and try it out there to see if any of those products I've already tried will work.
Well here's a pic of the hood primed and ready for the base coat of black. look pretty good so far, though you can't tell with the picture. If weather holds up today, I try and give it a shot at giving a few coats of the base black.
Well here's a pic of the hood primed and ready for the base coat of black. look pretty good so far, though you can't tell with the picture. If weather holds up today, I try and give it a shot at giving a few coats of the base black.
#732
Sorry about that, but I have an issue on another truck and its a Nissan and I didn't want to bring that to this table, but since you asked I'll give you an idea.
I've never like Nissan 6 months after i bought one and that only after dealing with the service and and NISSAN USA customer service as to how they operate and finding out how bad the quality of their material is. I said 6 months after I bought it, because that's when the trouble started. Anyhow back onto what has been taking my time for the last month. I got what everyone owning a Nissan Xterra eventually gets which Nissan has a TSB on... the secondary timing chain. I thought it would be a 10 day event judging by the write ups out there, but I missed that by a mile.
It started out semi good, but with all the new gadgets means more stuff to deal with. So took my time polling stuff and keeping track of things. with very little room to deal with (note to self remembered why i like to work on older vehicles less stuff more space). Finally got everything out of the way and ended up taking off the front timing cover. which by the way has 27 bolts to remove. Once that was off which is a task because you have to maneuver the cover plate around upside down and around to slide it out through a pipe that protrudes through it, I knew right away that its going to be hell to put back together since the RTv has to be on the cover and would get smeared every where when you do this circus act of putting it together. Well Since I had the cover off I decided to change the oil pump and water pump. The oil pump turned out to be a nightmare because you have to drop the oil pan which is 2 parts and upper and lower part, plus remove the steering arms. Because of issues with this thing the other thing to change was the inner gasket for the oil gallery (don't know why they call it a gallery its a passage) and that was a mistake a very big mistake. They use standard MM6-1 counter sink Phillips head bolts, 2 thing could go wrong and they did. 1) some of the heads could strip, to which i got around using a #3 phillips tip. Well the worse happened. The bolt broke mid way from coming out. so half out half in. This is where the week journey began of another nightmare and yes another one. Drilled a pilot hole which took about 3 days for the 2 broken bolts. Then i took the harden (not carbon) steel easyout and started the slow process of slow turning and then tapping it to see if it will loosen making it easy to remove. Nope easy out broke, okay another problem to deal with harden steel. Moving on to try and free up the other one same thing easy out broke, now 2 holes with harden steel stuck in them. Got a couple of carbide bit from a neighbor and we made up a guide to try and keep the bit center on the threaded hole. First one did okay was able to save the hole and threads. And now to the next but surely darkside. This last one gave me so much trouble it was incredible. The carbide bit did a number and keep veering off center which in turn damaged the threads, but still could not remove all of the easyout. Had to redo the drill bit guide and ended up using a larger drill bit cobalt since it was a sunday and none of the stores that had carbide bits where open. Pilot guide made, larger cobalt drill bit ready and finally done. Had to helicoil the hole, but it all worked out. Finally as of today starting to put it all back together and that alone takes time So a few more days to go till I can get back to the 4runner which i am anxious to get back too. I've order some more engine parts for the engine I'm rebuilding for it such as alternator and fuel injectors. I'm hoping nothing else goes wrong once I have the Nissan back together.
Oh yeah very important. I am very use to the way our FSM manual are written and how detailed they are. Using the the Nissan FSM they have a lot to learn that being said I spent a whole day trying to figure out why my TDC on the nissan was at TDC physically and not they way it was shown on the FSM. i had 2 other people read the section several time then show me where TDC is and they all said I was at TDC. Wrong, turns out what the FSM said was about 90degrees off. Going online I found out many had the same problem and the only reason i found out was I put a wooden stick in the #1 Spark plug hole and found the up and down. Not only that torque specs aren't listed were you are working or anywhere near that page or referenced at all.
Well I'll be working on the Nissan today so hopefully I'll get something done and over soon on this.
I've never like Nissan 6 months after i bought one and that only after dealing with the service and and NISSAN USA customer service as to how they operate and finding out how bad the quality of their material is. I said 6 months after I bought it, because that's when the trouble started. Anyhow back onto what has been taking my time for the last month. I got what everyone owning a Nissan Xterra eventually gets which Nissan has a TSB on... the secondary timing chain. I thought it would be a 10 day event judging by the write ups out there, but I missed that by a mile.
It started out semi good, but with all the new gadgets means more stuff to deal with. So took my time polling stuff and keeping track of things. with very little room to deal with (note to self remembered why i like to work on older vehicles less stuff more space). Finally got everything out of the way and ended up taking off the front timing cover. which by the way has 27 bolts to remove. Once that was off which is a task because you have to maneuver the cover plate around upside down and around to slide it out through a pipe that protrudes through it, I knew right away that its going to be hell to put back together since the RTv has to be on the cover and would get smeared every where when you do this circus act of putting it together. Well Since I had the cover off I decided to change the oil pump and water pump. The oil pump turned out to be a nightmare because you have to drop the oil pan which is 2 parts and upper and lower part, plus remove the steering arms. Because of issues with this thing the other thing to change was the inner gasket for the oil gallery (don't know why they call it a gallery its a passage) and that was a mistake a very big mistake. They use standard MM6-1 counter sink Phillips head bolts, 2 thing could go wrong and they did. 1) some of the heads could strip, to which i got around using a #3 phillips tip. Well the worse happened. The bolt broke mid way from coming out. so half out half in. This is where the week journey began of another nightmare and yes another one. Drilled a pilot hole which took about 3 days for the 2 broken bolts. Then i took the harden (not carbon) steel easyout and started the slow process of slow turning and then tapping it to see if it will loosen making it easy to remove. Nope easy out broke, okay another problem to deal with harden steel. Moving on to try and free up the other one same thing easy out broke, now 2 holes with harden steel stuck in them. Got a couple of carbide bit from a neighbor and we made up a guide to try and keep the bit center on the threaded hole. First one did okay was able to save the hole and threads. And now to the next but surely darkside. This last one gave me so much trouble it was incredible. The carbide bit did a number and keep veering off center which in turn damaged the threads, but still could not remove all of the easyout. Had to redo the drill bit guide and ended up using a larger drill bit cobalt since it was a sunday and none of the stores that had carbide bits where open. Pilot guide made, larger cobalt drill bit ready and finally done. Had to helicoil the hole, but it all worked out. Finally as of today starting to put it all back together and that alone takes time So a few more days to go till I can get back to the 4runner which i am anxious to get back too. I've order some more engine parts for the engine I'm rebuilding for it such as alternator and fuel injectors. I'm hoping nothing else goes wrong once I have the Nissan back together.
Oh yeah very important. I am very use to the way our FSM manual are written and how detailed they are. Using the the Nissan FSM they have a lot to learn that being said I spent a whole day trying to figure out why my TDC on the nissan was at TDC physically and not they way it was shown on the FSM. i had 2 other people read the section several time then show me where TDC is and they all said I was at TDC. Wrong, turns out what the FSM said was about 90degrees off. Going online I found out many had the same problem and the only reason i found out was I put a wooden stick in the #1 Spark plug hole and found the up and down. Not only that torque specs aren't listed were you are working or anywhere near that page or referenced at all.
Well I'll be working on the Nissan today so hopefully I'll get something done and over soon on this.
Last edited by junk4u; 10-26-2018 at 04:10 AM.
#733
Registered User
Sorry about that, but I have an issue on another truck and its a Nissan and I didn't want to bring that to this table, but since you asked I'll give you an idea.
I've never like Nissan 6 months after i bought one and that only after dealing with the service and and NISSAN USA customer service as to how they operate and finding out how bad the quality of their material is. I said 6 months after I bought it, because that's when the trouble started. Anyhow back onto what has been taking my time for the last month. I got what everyone owning a Nissan Xterra eventually gets which Nissan has a TSB on... the secondary timing chain. I thought it would be a 10 day event judging by the write ups out there, but I missed that by a mile.
It started out semi good, but with all the new gadgets means more stuff to deal with. So took my time polling stuff and keeping track of things. with very little room to deal with (note to self remembered why i like to work on older vehicles less stuff more space). Finally got everything out of the way and ended up taking off the front timing cover. which by the way has 27 bolts to remove. Once that was off which is a task because you have to maneuver the cover plate around upside down and around to slide it out through a pipe that protrudes through it, I knew right away that its going to be hell to put back together since the RTv has to be on the cover and would get smeared every where when you do this circus act of putting it together. Well Since I had the cover off I decided to change the oil pump and water pump. The oil pump turned out to be a nightmare because you have to drop the oil pan which is 2 parts and upper and lower part, plus remove the steering arms. Because of issues with this thing the other thing to change was the inner gasket for the oil gallery (don't know why they call it a gallery its a passage) and that was a mistake a very big mistake. They use standard MM6-1 counter sink Phillips head bolts, 2 thing could go wrong and they did. 1) some of the heads could strip, to which i got around using a #3 phillips tip. Well the worse happened. The bolt broke mid way from coming out. so half out half in. This is where the week journey began of another nightmare and yes another one. Drilled a pilot hole which took about 3 days for the 2 broken bolts. Then i took the harden (not carbon) steel easyout and started the slow process of slow turning and then tapping it to see if it will loosen making it easy to remove. Nope easy out broke, okay another problem to deal with harden steel. Moving on to try and free up the other one same thing easy out broke, now 2 holes with harden steel stuck in them. Got a couple of carbide bit from a neighbor and we made up a guide to try and keep the bit center on the threaded hole. First one did okay was able to save the hole and threads. And now to the next but surely darkside. This last one gave me so much trouble it was incredible. The carbide bit did a number and keep veering off center which in turn damaged the threads, but still could not remove all of the easyout. Had to redo the drill bit guide and ended up using a larger drill bit cobalt since it was a sunday and none of the stores that had carbide bits where open. Pilot guide made, larger cobalt drill bit ready and finally done. Had to helicoil the hole, but it all worked out. Finally as of today starting to put it all back together and that alone takes time So a few more days to go till I can get back to the 4runner which i am anxious to get back too. I've order some more engine parts for the engine I'm rebuilding for it such as alternator and fuel injectors. I'm hoping nothing else goes wrong once I have the Nissan back together.
Oh yeah very important. I am very use to the way our FSM manual are written and how detailed they are. Using the the Nissan FSM they have a lot to learn that being said I spent a whole day trying to figure out why my TDC on the nissan was at TDC physically and not they way it was shown on the FSM. i had 2 other people read the section several time then show me where TDC is and they all said I was at TDC. Wrong, turns out what the FSM said was about 90degrees off. Going online I found out many had the same problem and the only reason i found out was I put a wooden stick in the #1 Spark plug hole and found the up and down. Not only that torque specs aren't listed were you are working or anywhere near that page or referenced at all.
Well I'll be working on the Nissan today so hopefully I'll get something done and over soon on this.
I've never like Nissan 6 months after i bought one and that only after dealing with the service and and NISSAN USA customer service as to how they operate and finding out how bad the quality of their material is. I said 6 months after I bought it, because that's when the trouble started. Anyhow back onto what has been taking my time for the last month. I got what everyone owning a Nissan Xterra eventually gets which Nissan has a TSB on... the secondary timing chain. I thought it would be a 10 day event judging by the write ups out there, but I missed that by a mile.
It started out semi good, but with all the new gadgets means more stuff to deal with. So took my time polling stuff and keeping track of things. with very little room to deal with (note to self remembered why i like to work on older vehicles less stuff more space). Finally got everything out of the way and ended up taking off the front timing cover. which by the way has 27 bolts to remove. Once that was off which is a task because you have to maneuver the cover plate around upside down and around to slide it out through a pipe that protrudes through it, I knew right away that its going to be hell to put back together since the RTv has to be on the cover and would get smeared every where when you do this circus act of putting it together. Well Since I had the cover off I decided to change the oil pump and water pump. The oil pump turned out to be a nightmare because you have to drop the oil pan which is 2 parts and upper and lower part, plus remove the steering arms. Because of issues with this thing the other thing to change was the inner gasket for the oil gallery (don't know why they call it a gallery its a passage) and that was a mistake a very big mistake. They use standard MM6-1 counter sink Phillips head bolts, 2 thing could go wrong and they did. 1) some of the heads could strip, to which i got around using a #3 phillips tip. Well the worse happened. The bolt broke mid way from coming out. so half out half in. This is where the week journey began of another nightmare and yes another one. Drilled a pilot hole which took about 3 days for the 2 broken bolts. Then i took the harden (not carbon) steel easyout and started the slow process of slow turning and then tapping it to see if it will loosen making it easy to remove. Nope easy out broke, okay another problem to deal with harden steel. Moving on to try and free up the other one same thing easy out broke, now 2 holes with harden steel stuck in them. Got a couple of carbide bit from a neighbor and we made up a guide to try and keep the bit center on the threaded hole. First one did okay was able to save the hole and threads. And now to the next but surely darkside. This last one gave me so much trouble it was incredible. The carbide bit did a number and keep veering off center which in turn damaged the threads, but still could not remove all of the easyout. Had to redo the drill bit guide and ended up using a larger drill bit cobalt since it was a sunday and none of the stores that had carbide bits where open. Pilot guide made, larger cobalt drill bit ready and finally done. Had to helicoil the hole, but it all worked out. Finally as of today starting to put it all back together and that alone takes time So a few more days to go till I can get back to the 4runner which i am anxious to get back too. I've order some more engine parts for the engine I'm rebuilding for it such as alternator and fuel injectors. I'm hoping nothing else goes wrong once I have the Nissan back together.
Oh yeah very important. I am very use to the way our FSM manual are written and how detailed they are. Using the the Nissan FSM they have a lot to learn that being said I spent a whole day trying to figure out why my TDC on the nissan was at TDC physically and not they way it was shown on the FSM. i had 2 other people read the section several time then show me where TDC is and they all said I was at TDC. Wrong, turns out what the FSM said was about 90degrees off. Going online I found out many had the same problem and the only reason i found out was I put a wooden stick in the #1 Spark plug hole and found the up and down. Not only that torque specs aren't listed were you are working or anywhere near that page or referenced at all.
Well I'll be working on the Nissan today so hopefully I'll get something done and over soon on this.
#734
Registered User
cyber - yeah I'm with Jake. I'm stressed out just reading all that. Sounds about like when I do a project...I usually break a few bolts, spend more money in drill bits and extractors than it probably would have cost me to just have the work done by a professional. Busted knuckles, aching back, hours in the garage, and yet I just keep doing it. Must be something wrong with all of us here on YT.
#735
Registered User
That sounds like...... "fun"......
Yeah, Nissan hasn't really had the best in quality after they joined up with Renault in an alliance back in 1999. Before that though, Nissans were pretty good.
Good luck getting everything back together! I hope you are seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.
I am pretty sure it is an incurable disease!
Yeah, Nissan hasn't really had the best in quality after they joined up with Renault in an alliance back in 1999. Before that though, Nissans were pretty good.
Good luck getting everything back together! I hope you are seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.
I am pretty sure it is an incurable disease!
#737
Been a while just finished up the last bolt on the timing cover and put 97% back together. Cranked her up and timing chain is good now that all is new. Oil pump was replaced as well, but same issue with the oil pressure in this bad boy Low oil pressure. No knocks that are noticeable, but there are 2 more things I can think about that would cause this low pressure in the oil. Oil filter is the easiest because there are instances when people have had that issue because the flow of oil wasn't good. The other would be worn Crank bearing and i can't put anything aside.. (Note to self never ever buy a Nissan so long as the President is the same president of renault. I new better when I purchased this truck right price straight from the dealer. But my family history since Nissan became nissan (hence Datsun) things haven't been all to good as far as the quality of the product. I like the engine and various items on the truck, but from the get go Poor material and Poor design (not mechanic friendly) should have been my deciding factor when i purchased it.
Anyhow, I started to clean up things and give the car a good wash and wax. Noticed a load of garbage under the roof rack cargo storage and the only way to remove all that garbage is to remove the OEM rack. Turns out the used nutserts and all to often they end up spinning on these vehicles more than likely ifs because of the poor material. Did a search and sure enough seems there are a ton of people with the same issue except mine was installed cross threaded so theres no way to remove the bolt. And guess what since i can't go anywhere with that bolt at this point I thought i would just leave it alone. Finishing up washing up the truck and starting on the inside i notice the seat was wet. turns out that little turn I did on the bolt caused just enough room around the nutsert to allow water to start leaking in. Well another horror story. Got to drill out that bolt and remove the piece to replace that nutsert. This truck is nothing but a mission. NISSAN IS JUNK TODAY.
Yeah don't leave me out of that you don't know how many times that has crossed my mind.
Yeah i've been there done that with the yota, but it seems a lot easier than a newer car because there's space and room to do it in most cases. Well as far as something wrong with us on YT yeah there is, we expect it to work and work good and long.....
Yeah I'm with you on that Nissan and I prefer a Datsun any day good old 280Z's. yeah shes pretty much back together just holding trying to do that reprogramming on the truck for the throttle body and Idle control. what a pain, plus that light got dim with the oil pressure not being resolved.
yeah i should schedule a therapy for something.
Anyhow, I started to clean up things and give the car a good wash and wax. Noticed a load of garbage under the roof rack cargo storage and the only way to remove all that garbage is to remove the OEM rack. Turns out the used nutserts and all to often they end up spinning on these vehicles more than likely ifs because of the poor material. Did a search and sure enough seems there are a ton of people with the same issue except mine was installed cross threaded so theres no way to remove the bolt. And guess what since i can't go anywhere with that bolt at this point I thought i would just leave it alone. Finishing up washing up the truck and starting on the inside i notice the seat was wet. turns out that little turn I did on the bolt caused just enough room around the nutsert to allow water to start leaking in. Well another horror story. Got to drill out that bolt and remove the piece to replace that nutsert. This truck is nothing but a mission. NISSAN IS JUNK TODAY.
cyber - yeah I'm with Jake. I'm stressed out just reading all that. Sounds about like when I do a project...I usually break a few bolts, spend more money in drill bits and extractors than it probably would have cost me to just have the work done by a professional. Busted knuckles, aching back, hours in the garage, and yet I just keep doing it. Must be something wrong with all of us here on YT.
That sounds like...... "fun"......
Yeah, Nissan hasn't really had the best in quality after they joined up with Renault in an alliance back in 1999. Before that though, Nissans were pretty good.
Good luck getting everything back together! I hope you are seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.:
Yeah, Nissan hasn't really had the best in quality after they joined up with Renault in an alliance back in 1999. Before that though, Nissans were pretty good.
Good luck getting everything back together! I hope you are seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.:
#738
Okay getting back into swing slowly. Especially since this is the holiday portion of the year, my paint is in low gear for sure. I don't want to upset the neighbors because most have outdoor family gatherings this time of year. So I'll be doing a little less on painting and more on little stuff.
One thing I have been working on that most know of is replacement engine. It's basically done waiting for odds and ends. One thing was injectors. I finally ordered some aftermarket ones that I've been wanting to test out even though they are aftermarket and not really thoroughly tested out by anyone, I thought I would give it a shot. Drawbacks are they are aftermarket and they are from over seas. The manufacture isn't well known on the market, but the price I got them for I am willing to give it a try, if it ends up bad, I'll just have to give those custom hi-impedance ones I got last year a try which aren't a direct fit since you have to modify things. In any case those injectors should be here in a few weeks.
The other thing is the Alternator I am in bit of a pickle as to what to do right now for an alternator. Alternators range from $50 to 300 depending on what you get. I was going to try and rebuilt the one I have sitting around that has a bad bearing. Then the prices for the bearing through me off. A brand new after market new one sold about 30min away from me cost $60 + tax, but the bearings to rebuild the one I have cost just for bearings is roughly $30 plus while I'm in there i would change the brushes etc... only thing is this is the original one i pulled from my 87 4runner that the PO must have changed out since its not stamped with DN (denso). Cost to rebuild this rebuilt would cost more than buying the new one down the road. I may just buy the new one down the road and rebuild the one I have later.
Well, i've got to start somewhere slowly and carefully since it is the holiday season and there will be a ton of other thing i have to be doing or will be doing....LOL
One thing I have been working on that most know of is replacement engine. It's basically done waiting for odds and ends. One thing was injectors. I finally ordered some aftermarket ones that I've been wanting to test out even though they are aftermarket and not really thoroughly tested out by anyone, I thought I would give it a shot. Drawbacks are they are aftermarket and they are from over seas. The manufacture isn't well known on the market, but the price I got them for I am willing to give it a try, if it ends up bad, I'll just have to give those custom hi-impedance ones I got last year a try which aren't a direct fit since you have to modify things. In any case those injectors should be here in a few weeks.
The other thing is the Alternator I am in bit of a pickle as to what to do right now for an alternator. Alternators range from $50 to 300 depending on what you get. I was going to try and rebuilt the one I have sitting around that has a bad bearing. Then the prices for the bearing through me off. A brand new after market new one sold about 30min away from me cost $60 + tax, but the bearings to rebuild the one I have cost just for bearings is roughly $30 plus while I'm in there i would change the brushes etc... only thing is this is the original one i pulled from my 87 4runner that the PO must have changed out since its not stamped with DN (denso). Cost to rebuild this rebuilt would cost more than buying the new one down the road. I may just buy the new one down the road and rebuild the one I have later.
Well, i've got to start somewhere slowly and carefully since it is the holiday season and there will be a ton of other thing i have to be doing or will be doing....LOL