When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
junk - that Sunrader is awesome. I have long thought about getting a little toyota RV, but I can't keep an RV at my house, so I'd have to store it somewhere.
junk - that Sunrader is awesome. I have long thought about getting a little toyota RV, but I can't keep an RV at my house, so I'd have to store it somewhere.
Looks like a really great project though.
Thanks Cory... i'm just setting myself up for an over load of projects and 0$... Weather isn't going to clear up until 12/16 here by weather.com, so I'm going to pull those tail light lens I have and refinish the reflective coating inside it. Mean while I look over how to use those LED strips inside it, i want something much bright that can be seen 100 yards away or I should say better than whats there now.
Got a chance to clean up a pair of tail lights yesterday. Just primed the right one first and coated with black first. next up when its nicely dry is coating the silver lining which is suppose to be reflective at least a little. Here is a pot of it all scrubbed down and ready for priming.
I'll post a finish product one it finishes drying.
Just so you guy know that I have other this happening other than the truck which is just one in one million projects.
One of the projects I've been working on is a new mail box for the front of the house. I hate those generic mail boxes you get at the stores so I decided on making my own. Little did I know what i was getting into.
Here's what it looks like so far and has been for maybe 2/3 months for various reasons.
This is just the base which is approximately 16x16 and filled with rocks and poured concrete so far. got to weigh in about 350lbs or more. no one will ever bump this down or bat it down. I have to pour some more concrete in it and add another block which would actually be the mail box. I am currently working on this block cutting it for the opening.
The next picture is actually what I have so far for the top of the mail box.
This thing is about 200lbs in this picture. Poured concrete form and its not finished. this part will sit on the final block which will be the mail box.
And this is the additional portion I had to pour where it sits on the base.
This is the same top as above flipped upside down so i can pour the concrete where it will sit on those blocks. This add portion pretty much made the top about 250lbs or maybe more.
Did a little work on the front bumper not much that I care for, i actually got the grinder and start grinding off some of the rust. Didn't smoothen it out very well as some of the grinding was over done and I didn't want to fill it with anything.
Here's a close up.
here's another
Don't like the Gloss paint it's actually rustoleum, prefer a satin finish as most of them seem to come like back then. i may just go over it in the future with a satin black.
I had to post this i thought it was funny. i'm guessing you don't want to double park around this guy.
<div id="fb-root"></div><script>(function(d, s, id) { var js, fjs = d.getElementsByTagName(s)[0]; if (d.getElementById(id)) return; js = d.createElement(s); js.id = id; js.src = "//connect.facebook.net/en_US/sdk.js#xfbml=1&version=v2.3"; fjs.parentNode.insertBefore(js, fjs);}(document, 'script', 'facebook-jssdk'));</script><div class="fb-video" data-allowfullscreen="1" data-href="/DaveMahoneyDK/videos/vb.120879094602007/778237545532822/?type=3"><div class="fb-xfbml-parse-ignore"><blockquote cite="https://www.facebook.com/DaveMahoneyDK/videos/778237545532822/"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/DaveMahoneyDK/videos/778237545532822/"></a><p>So this is why you don't double park like a jerk....</p>Posted by <a href="https://www.facebook.com/DaveMahoneyDK/">The Dave, Mahoney & DK Morning Show</a> on Thursday, July 24, 2014</blockquote></div></div>
Hey all, I've been using this spray can of Red Heavy Primer by rust-oleum on most of the heavy metal stuff like the chassis and other heavy frame parts. One thing i've found is the spay cans for this specific product seems to clog up and its not the spray tip, it seems to be the stem on the can which can't be cleaned. I have about 1/2 doz half or more full of these spray cans that are clogged this way and the only thing I can do is dump them. replacing or cleaning the spray tips don't work since it the stem on the can that's clogged. I guess this stuff is to thick to be in a spray can.
I have thrown several cans away lately. I think the Rustoleum sprayer is a poor design. Another thing I have seen on the Rustoleum can is it will stick and keep spraying if you use it to much at one time. I have tried turning the can upside down and run it until the paint is out of the nozzle and that does not seem to help either. I have tried nozzles from other brands and they wont interchange. Looks like you have been busy.
I have thrown several cans away lately. I think the Rustoleum sprayer is a poor design. Another thing I have seen on the Rustoleum can is it will stick and keep spraying if you use it to much at one time. I have tried turning the can upside down and run it until the paint is out of the nozzle and that does not seem to help either. I have tried nozzles from other brands and they wont interchange. Looks like you have been busy.
Hey Terry Thanks for buzzing in. Yeah I have been busy some what, but lack posting I know . I was gone for a while do to work keeping me busy, but that's change even though I'm out of work for the holidays and future. I haven't really been to work since August much at all. Just a bit of who does what and who knows what's between me and the owners wife going on at the company that set things off in the direction it went, so I just started tapering off going in. Even today I'm being haunted by them and its been almost 4 months since I've been there and because of expenses I've shelled out of my pocket and they seem to have a hard time shelling back or reimbursing me. So at the end of the year I'm going to completely cut all communications with them. Off looking for something new now.
Going back on track, the weather had been bad for quite a while so I lacked any progress and only fiddle with what I could. One of the things i was fiddling with was the tail lights. I haven't finished them as I been trying to figure out what to use though since this is a spare tail light housing, I'm just fooling around. I can;t decide if I should use Strips/Tape of LED lights or SMD LED lights. I have Strips, but would have to buy the SMD LED's.
Here's what I'm talking about using:
LED Strip/Tape
And Here's the SMD LED Light I've been looking at to buy.
I've already started testing it with the Strips and as far as them working with the tail lights they seem to work fine for reverse/brake/running lights. The one thing i haven't tested yet is the tail light turning light. I've read around the web that it may require a resistor to work properly, I'm guessing the only way for me to really know is to hook up some LED Strips to turning light to see if I do need this resistor.
resistor
As for the Rustoleum Paint I think the weather has a lot to do with it with it. I ended up talking to someone about Paint in a can, but it's something I and you already know. If the temps are cool paint in a can will be denser which can cause the clogging. My problem is the paint is not clogged at the tip/nozzle but prior to getting to there. You seem to be having the same problem Terry.
Okay to start everyone saw that I was working on the front bumper. Those nuts were rusted pretty bad so I was going to spend a fortune for a few bolts. I changed my mind somewhere along the way when I saw how much those bolts would end up costing me, plus all the others that I would be needing along the way. I decided to clean them up using the cheapest way possible. Vinegar and a little salt to my amaze it works pretty decent.
Here is basically what I did.
Soaking them in a solution of Vinegar white, but after a while the vinegar turns this rust color as it changes the rust or dissolves the rust. Add a little salt to make the solution more acidic. Left bolts in the solution over night. Then wire brushed it a little to remove some of the hard scale or cancer rust on them.
Got an old pan and dump the nuts and bolts and rinsed them, didn't add baking soda powder like some of the articles online says to stop process just rinsed. Then heats the pot with a torch and dried the bolts and nuts.
The result wasn't bad at all.
The only problem I have which is what happens to most nuts and bolts we clean up either with a wire brush or taking the route I did is flash rusting or slow oxidizing when it meets the elements.
So I decided to try zinc plating the nuts and bolts and have started setting up the process. I got a small chunk of Zinc very small if it works out I might try and get some bigger ones at the marine shop as they always have them around or try and buy some of the roofing material that is zinc.
Here's my basic setup of the plating process.
Drilled a couple of holes through the buck so I could run a wire across like you see to hang the parts I want plated on copper is preferred, but I used what ever I had available to me. This line will have positive charge.
Then I drilled another hole to hand the cathode zinc chunk from which is a copper line which will have a negative charge to it.
Currently the Zinc chunk is sitting on the bottom dissolving in the solution. once the Zinc chunk is dissolved enough, I will place a positive charge on the wire hanging across the bucket and hang my bolts into the solution that I want plated. I will also take the Zinc chunk cathode and hand it from the other wire into the solution and connect the negative charge to it.
Here's a picture of the zinc chunk cathode bubble as it dissolves.
Okay, I put the bolts in side the bucket as you will see in the picture. They are bubbling like they should be, but I think I have to clean them up better than they are as it doesn't look to be plating evenly or some spots look to be still rusted. maybe I can also try cleaning the rust the same way except reversing charge and using a metal piece to conduct the rust.
Here's a close up of the stuff while it's bubbling.
I'm going to leave it in there a while to see what happens.
Okay after an hour I pulled 2 of them out and did a little wire brush to see if they would shine and how well the plating worked. here's a pic of the before and after.
Not to bad for someone who wants to keep these bolts from rusting further. I will finish up the rest of the bolts tomorrow.
Cyber - plating looks pretty good. I might have to try that some day. Nice 4Runner holiday pics.
Thanks Cory, Happy New Years.
Just playing with it and learning a little as i go along. I'm going to redo this plating setup a little more. I'm going to change the drip charger to something a little stronger as I think the plating is taking a little longer. I'm also going to try and prep the solution with Zinc some what already dissolved inside it as well. The zinc cathode you saw in the prior photo did dissolve completely when I left it in the bucket for a couple of days. So I'll be looking to collect more zinc for this. Pretty easy setup as well very cheap to do.
White Vinegar ($0.99/gal)
This is the main ingredient which is acidic
Salt about 1/3 cup/gal ($0.39/1lb)
This I assume would make the solution a little more acidic and i am only guessing to provide a more conductive solution.
And finally Sugar just a table spoon/gal ($1.69/4/lbs)
I can assume that this would reduce the size of the crystals and give a better zinc coating.
Well as I wait for some other stuff to dry, i notice the slider windows had a little rust showing so I pulled them off the topper again which i was going to anyhow if you all remember that I dented the L trims the last time installed them with the clamps. I got that all punched out and refinished, but haven't installed it yet. I've been contemplating how to stop the corner area from rusting. One of the ideas I came up with is to plate that lower half where it rust like I'm doing with the nuts and bolts. That would take up an entirely new setup I thought, so that wouldn't be the easiest. Then I thought about drilling a drain hole on the ended so water wouldn't sit in that corner which is one of the main reason for the rust, but drilling another hole for drainage I thought would be another point of rusting. Then going back on painting I cleaned up the area and painted the area with that red primer pain and re-painted it again. While doing all this I was thinking about a friend who had a leaky faucet and was going to help him replace the washer and bibb screw and seat, so i gather up tools that I would need to go over and help him. While gathering everything I realized I had in had what I needed to most likely help or aid in stopping or prevent the rusting from happening or growing and would not harm the rubber gasket, but improve it in the process. Silicone Grease! Plumbers Grease which silicone base water resistant to high heat that which is South Florida and will last a while.
It's a paste not a spray so it can be used on nuts and bolts and won't dry out or washout easy and has a high temperature rating about 450^F. Just going to coat the area that i think needs it.
12-04-2015, 04:29 AM
. I was gone for a while do to work keeping me busy, but that's change even though I'm out of work for the holidays and future. I haven't really been to work since August much at all. Just a bit of who does what and who knows what's between me and the owners wife going on at the company that set things off in the direction it went, so I just started tapering off going in. Even today I'm being haunted by them and its been almost 4 months since I've been there and because of expenses I've shelled out of my pocket and they seem to have a hard time shelling back or reimbursing me. So at the end of the year I'm going to completely cut all communications with them. Off looking for something new now.
