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Thanks Cory, make sure to start out cleaning, priming then paint, that's what I started out doing.
Thanks Gizler, surprised the heck out of me how nice they came out.
Yesterday I changed out some of my Dash lights to LED. I have 2 types one that is round at the top the other flat. I put the round one in first and couldn't really see anything as it was to bright to see anything. I didn't get a chance to snap a picture, but will this evening. I want to try out the flat top LED to see if that's any better looking.
Nice photos and zip ties on the seat mechanism. My 87 was rigged and broken as well. Also found that if the seat is put on the ground and or sat in while not installed the brackets holding the mentioned spring bend causing a failure. Do you have or dealt with any vibrations or grinding noises while above 45mph?
Nice photos and zip ties on the seat mechanism. My 87 was rigged and broken as well. Also found that if the seat is put on the ground and or sat in while not installed the brackets holding the mentioned spring bend causing a failure. Do you have or dealt with any vibrations or grinding noises while above 45mph?
Hey Bewelch,
Thanks on the zip tie and set mech. Never sat in the seats while they were off the truck, something to keep in mind not to do, thanks. I really haven't dealt with any vibration or noises at the rate of speed accelerating or coasting. You may want to check out the wheel bearings, brakes rotors, drive shafts and motor mounts. Maybe even the crankshaft balance.
Hey all, been a while since I've been on here. Been busy with a few things here and there. I just got a little time so I fooled around with a little body work.
I hate bondo with a passion for some reason, but some times there's no way around it. These truck are made pretty open so pretty much banging these dent should be easy.
Here's what little work I did the other day. This before i banged out the dent.
Here's one after I finish banging and sanding:
It's sprayed with primer to keep it from rusting also there is a hair line crack along the where the dent was, so no getting around some glazing for the that. It's not 100% perfect it still needs a little more banging nothing the naked eye can see just when you lightly run your fingers through it.
Looks like you did a great job on the dent. I was against bondo as well but when used properly it is great. Would rather not use it but really no choice to getting one straight. I think I will pass on learning to use lead as a filler, I can only imagine how hard that stuff is to get smooth.
Looks like you did a great job on the dent. I was against bondo as well but when used properly it is great. Would rather not use it but really no choice to getting one straight. I think I will pass on learning to use lead as a filler, I can only imagine how hard that stuff is to get smooth.
That dent was is really smooth, took a little time getting use to using those hammers and dollies from HF. I understand what the negatives were about using them. The handles on the hammers are fiberglass and seem to have more of a feedback than wooden handles. I don't think they use much lead now days as fillers, sort of a tin filler I've seen. If you have the patience then hammering is the way to go. Funny part was hammering outside of the dent to pop the dent out then hammering the rest to smooth-en it out. Looking to paint the truck this year.
A couple of months ago I pulled out my engine hoist to use. I started to pump the jack, but the hoist wouldn't raise. After several attends it was obvious that the hydraulic seals were bad.
It seemed like the manufactures out in California have discontinued this model of a engine hoist so the seals they sent me didn't work. The first set of seals they sent me where lost in the mail. They sent me a replacement for the lost seals. When it arrived I took the jack apart only to realize that the seals were larger than the one I had. I contacted the company and gave them the dimensions I took. They replied and said that there techs will put together a set that should work for me. Well I did receive the new set which contained 3 different seals, but none fit anywhere near the one I needed. I hopped into the car and headed over to the Hydraulic house to see if i could purchase one. They measured and checked and can back with a reply that they did not have one the size i needed, but instead brought me 2 seals that came to the right dimensions that i needed.
I purchased the 2 seals and put the unit back together and they fit perfect. when I tried to push the rod and piston back it i meet a great deal of resistance. That seemed like a very good thing at this point and the only way I could get the Rod and Piston back in was to release the pressure through that release valve. I have yet to put it back on the hoist and fill it with hydraulic oil, but it seems like it hold very good at this point.
Here are some pics of the replacement:
you can see here where the double seal is located.
Lower section replace all those plastic rings as well. Hoping it will last a good few years.
On another note, some of you guys know I purchased a Sunrader back a few months ago. Well that plan went awry. After several thoughts and planing i decided to forgo those plans. I ate the money I had on the camper, i told the owner it would cost me alone just to get it home about 800, via towing etc... Not only that i would have to find a 1ton axle or 1 ton dually (seen a few for about $600) to work with it as it had the dually that was on recall, with that in mind I told the owner for what its worth he could keep what money I gave him for it. Why was I so easy about giving up what i paid. first to start lets just say the total cost was $200 for the camper alone as the truck it sat one was totally stripped, though he had the motor, hood, doors and several other items to give me, I wasn't to keen about spending more than 3 or 4 hundred to tow it home. Yeah it was a 21ft Sunrader. Anyhow it was a relief to get that off my chest for now even though $200 is a great deal for the shell of the camper.
Since then, I have come across another sunrader locally in Miami. It was a 18ft one, but older than the aforementioned one. Plus it had the right 1 ton axle, interior was dated and in horrible condition, but which ones not that has the original interior. I would plan on gutting it anyhow. Would have to be towed home, but its not over 10 miles, the truck it self is pretty shabby meaning rusted. The guy wants $1000 for it and he kind of knows his stuff when it comes to these campers. He also had another toyota camper in the back.
Here's a picture of the one he wants to sell.
Early 80's truck has a 20r motor.
Needs alot of accessories that are missing
I think the 18 is better suited for me and from what i can tell seems to be a lot more desired. The 21 would be more roomy as to what i can tell, but I've always hated RV's. It's just these are part of the 80's toyota I like so much.
Okay I was lurking around the web and found someone doing what i want to do ultimately. He separated the shell from the truck and his plans where to use a landcruiser in place of it.
I hope he doesn't mind me using his picks as examples as to what i would like to do.
He removed the shell from the truck
Unwanted truck, a scrappers dream
Shell by itself awaiting new truck.
His mockup of what he would like to do. I think it's awesome. He hasn't come back and updated his post where I found it, I sure wish he does. I thought about the samething using something like a landcruiser or 2nd generation 4runner in place of the old little truck.
Well, i got inoculated to automotive painting not by will, but by virtue of have too.
My daughter got into a small fender bender with I was told a sign post at a community parking lot of some sort. I'm guessing the signage/post ran into her.
This is after I had to not want to use metal filler cause I couldn't get into those corner edges to remove those creases to good, but I did bang out what i could. The fender was torn off so I'm guessing again that while she was backing out the signage/post decided to jump in her way.
Notice the bumper off, I had do some plastic welding which is basically a soldering iron to melt the plastic to make up those clips that hold the bumper in place also had to buy from the stealership the end mounting clips on both side of the truck cost for those little clips $36 2 little clips they wouldn't even give me a dime off the suggested retail.
Primed with some close to near color primer, really expensive stuff at $9 bucks a can.
Starting to look good as far as shape of the body work.
Sanded down the excessive primer with 600 grit looks much better.
I let the primer dry over night, I had some issues with it sanding to early so I let it cure over night. Next day hit again with 600 grit.
Got it all taped off and covered (like that went well, got some over spray on the hood because when I started painting the tape came up on a section and the clear sprayed under it. Here's a picture of it painted.
Paint blended very good with the original, color was match and took about 1 hour to do so. The paint guy was nice about it mixing up the paint as he went.
I haven't got a good picture of it finished painted with clear coat, I sanded it with 2000 grit after the clear now I'm looking for a good polishing compound to finish it off as so as soon as I polish it up, I'll post those pics.
This gives me a push to start painting my runner before it goes south. Tools i used to paint where as follows.
Metal filler Had this
150 Sand Paper Had this
600 W/D sand paper Had this
1200 W/D sand Paper from HF
2000 W/D sand Paper from HD
Hammer and Dolly Set from HF
20oz HPLV Paint Gun from HF
1qt of base paint/1qt of clear (used less than a pint)
Soldering iron and some staples to use as reinforcement (ask me)
Looking for a good polishing/buffing compound to use
That's it all I needed so far it's less than $200 still for the repair. The body shops wants over $1500 to the work and my insurance deductible is $250, but yet since my daughter was driving my ins premiums would have been more to deal with.
Okay now here's a picture of the finished product.
can't even tell work was done. I block sanded with 2000 grit Wet and Dry which smoothed out little in perfections, but left a haze. Went out looking for something reasonable in price to buff and found Turtlewax Polishing compound. Buffed up a shine that is really nice, threw on a little wax and man it looks unbelievable.
With this being so easy for me to do, I've been calling the paint shop for black paint for the 87 runner Black 202 original color, but thinking about 209 today pearl black.
You did a great job on that and since that was your first time something to really be proud of. The body shop I worked at, those were the kind of repairs he liked to get as in a days work you could make more off of those over a major collision. We would have 5 or 6 of those going at one time. Once you have your supplies built up, except for the paint there really isnt any cost involved.
Check for a body shop supply store. A roll of sanding pads is about $35 for 100 disk. That will last a long time. I dont like hearing the air compressor run all the time and like electrical driven tools. For the hobby guy they will last a long time as well and are cheap. Easier to work with over an air hose to in my opinion.
Now when you see a dinged up truck, bet you are thinking I can fix that. lol
Wow junk, I'd say that looks really good. I'm impressed.
Thanks Cory... I need all the pat on the back i could get.
Came out looking like factory paint work. Sunday, I was out there looking at it with my neighbor, he was amazed how well it came out better than the accident work done a few months ago on the car I was driving and the work was done at the Body shop whom works owns the Cadi dealership here in Miami. I'm totally amazed myself.
Originally Posted by Terrys87
You did a great job on that and since that was your first time something to really be proud of. The body shop I worked at, those were the kind of repairs he liked to get as in a days work you could make more off of those over a major collision. We would have 5 or 6 of those going at one time. Once you have your supplies built up, except for the paint there really isnt any cost involved.
Check for a body shop supply store. A roll of sanding pads is about $35 for 100 disk. That will last a long time. I dont like hearing the air compressor run all the time and like electrical driven tools. For the hobby guy they will last a long time as well and are cheap. Easier to work with over an air hose to in my opinion.
Now when you see a dinged up truck, bet you are thinking I can fix that. lol
Thanks Terry, I actually had fun doing it and it was a little over whelming at first doing something I've really never done before. Yeah, I can imagine how much profit margin there is in doing this type of work.
I ordered my black paint for my 4runner was going to use toyotas 202 black which would be original, but thought about it and decided to go with jet black. Primer, Base coat and Clear came to $250 included hardeners, etc... not a bad price I think for a gallon of each. I know I would have way more of this stuff, but i plan on paint inside and outside where I can, plus like you said yeah that is my quote every time I see a ding now "Bet I can fix that". A lot of the dent can be banged out somewhat using a heat gun and a dust can of cold air. I'm actually having fun. Wish I had more money, my days at work have been cut back drastically because it's actually slow, so funds aren't where they should be. on a brighter note, I have time now...LOL
Hey All Been a while since I last post only because I've had little to none to post until last week. I've been itching to do the Zukmod and had been pondering it for awhile. I got a few coil springs I just grabbed from the scrap metal yard I use to work at. Yup you heard right use to work at, so there's an end to an era of free spare parts for me and it's been several months since then.
In any case I got the itching to do the Zukmod which I may have to redo as I think it's a little to high for the truck. this of course is the No Cut version.
As you can see I was at 33" before I started this.
And here's were I put the truck jack. This to give me ample room to insert the springs.
I cut the springs from 15" to about 13 1/2" only because I did know the actual ratings 125lbs, etc... since I picked it up at the scrap yard.
Compressed it down to 9" more or less before even trying to slide it in.
Got up and in fit pretty good. And took off those Coil compressors.
After taking out Coil compressors this is how it sat. I ended up turning the coil on this one because I didn't like the cut end at the top sitting where it was.
And this is the height we sit at now. That's 3" more than we started.
Good job junk, Zuk mod is a great way to fix that sag. How's the bodywork coming on the truck?
Hey Cory,
As you know the weather hasn't been all to great in this part of the State. Weather has post pone any painting wet and soggy.
Then again, you know I've been pounding some of those body parts I've taken off the truck Fender, hood and cowl cover. Fenders been a tough one as I hate using bondo so I am constantly hammer/dolly then primer. I also sprayed some rubber under coating on some of the parts.
These have been rubberized under coated. Note to self, I know a bunch of you may disagree with undercoating, but I think doing it before putting these parts back out into the elements is better. I had to scrub, degrease and then rinse and then with a heat gun dry. Then prime and then coat with rubberized undercoating. this may or may not be a good thing.
Did the hood as well, but didn't get a good picture of it, but I'm guessing most of you get the gist of it.
Finished primed fender.
Finished primed hood.
Just to give you guys an idea of what the rubberized coating turns out looking like I took a pictures of it dry.
This is before it dried.
And
This after it dried. No to shabby if I say so myself.
All these parts have been waiting for better weather.
Most of you know I have purchased a Toyota Sunrader judging by the past posts, which I have yet to bring home. The guy who I purchased it from has been super nice to allow me to leave it at his home till I can get it towed. The truck starts up, but only for a second, I think he said something about the radiator I guess it over heats.
In any case I am hoping to get it home before the end of the year. Once I do get it I may or may not take the Sunrader off the truck as my future plan is to put on a Toyota pickup 4WD or a Tacoma 4WD. If I do take it off now rather than later I would like to sell the 20R motor in it as well the transmission. I don’t have a need for it that I can think of and I do know of the Swap of heads, etc… , but I’m not interested in those mods which more than likely from what I’ve read will cost more in the long run. If your are wondering why I would go to the effort and expense of changing it to a 4wd to me it is because when driving something so heavy I prefer to have 4wd engaged during the rainy slippery road days. Really help out a lot I think.
If I do sell the 20r which I think will be a while before I actually decide, it would be complete with everything head, block, distributor, carburetor, exhaust manifold, oil pan, valve cover, alternator, A/C Compressor (don’t know if it has one), steering pump (everything from top cover to bottom pan)all in one package. I will not part the motor at all it would have to go in one lump. I guess it would be hard to sell this as shipping would cost a pretty penny, but I can build a crate to ship it. If I do I would like to hear from people who may be interested in it.
The transmission will also go as well; I think these trucks came with a L43. I’ve heard different ones as well, but this is what I’ve heard the most about. I would also like to hear from anyone that maybe interested as well.
This is just a future plan before I even get started.
This is the actual truck it would be coming out of.
12-11-2014, 10:04 AM
