junk4u

iTrader: (1)

I haven’t done much to the truck in the past couple of days for various reasons. I have been driving it around town breaking it in. So far I’ve got about 200miles on it and as mentioned before the idle/AFm seems to be a problem at this time as the idle starts out around 750 and as the truck gets hot driving it around for about 20 minutes seems to idle up to about 1150. I’m going to look at the IACV and the TPS.

Yesterday I had the pleasure of meeting up with Cory in Lauderhill. He’s been a great help to me with my works with my truck. Thanks Cory for the Fuel rail, dizzy, tow hitch and couple of other items. His truck is awesome with those 33’ great for mudding. It was great to see another 1st Gen 4Runner this far down South.

On the drive back down south I started getting different reading off the tach for the first time since driving it around. At the Border of Dade and Broward, I stopped at a stop light and the idle dipped down to 700-800 couldn’t get a good reading as it was just for a second and I caught it from the corner of my eye. It did it again 3 or 4 more times when stopped at a light. Could this be the effect of the TPS needing to be adjusted as it maybe off from prior adjusting? Anyhow, I’d thought I’d give it a shot and drive it on the highway the Palmetto Expressway which seems to be the last Free Highway in Dade County. Speed limit is 55, but everyone flies through there at 60 to 70. I took it up to 60/63 and it drove okay as the shocks, tire balance, alignment and maybe the suspension need tending to soon. The hardest on the drive was the A/C or should I say the lack of A/C. It’s a steam sauna, but a major sun bake at the stop lights/signs.

On the way up to Lauderhill, I stopped by Autozone in Hialeah. Just my luck it had to be the only store in Dade that had the O-ring/seals for the A/C. I really don’t like to being in that city, the people are rude and a bunch of other things. My son said to me these people here are crazy and rude. I didn’t want to wait till Tuesday/Wednesday for the store to get it and since I was headed North I decided to stop and pick it up since it was on the way.

Thought I could work on it Sunday, but the weathers not holding up today, rain. I’ll head over to Napa to get the drier and wait and see if it will stop raining anytime soon. I really need AC here in South Florida, heats not getting to me at all, it more so the humidity that makes me suffer more than anything, the rain then sun then rain, hence sauna/steam bath.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Since I am gung-ho on the A/C right now and looking at the cost of R-12 and availability as a big factor, R134A has a bad rap for not cooling so well, been looking at the other sources, ES-12 Freeze 12, R152A, etc… as the prime product for the system. I understand a few things about these and how compatible with R12 and R134A systems they are.


There are pros and cons or what some call arguments about using these:
1) On the facts about ES-12A, Freeze 12, Duracool 12a they all contain hydrocarbon, butane and propane blend. They are highly flammable and EPA considers it illegal to use in vehicles to date that I know of.
2) R152A/HFC-152A these are basically a duster can sprayer.
3) Many people have been using ES-12A, Duracool and Freeze 12 with great success, but I understand that in temperatures above 90 or 95 the system doesn’t work so great.
4) Some people say that ES-12A, Duracool and Freeze 12 are no more dangerous than the gasoline tanks in your car. I guess there’s a lot of debate on that.
5) Supposedly the igniting point for the ES-12a, duracool and Freeze 12 are higher than R-134A so R-134A will ignite
6) ES-12A, Duracool and Freeze 12 supposedly cools better than R-12(hard to believe).
7) ES-12A, Duracool and Freeze 12 doesn’t seem to need evacuation of the system.
8) R152A seems to be similar to R134A in its cooling.
9) R152A is way cheaper than R134A.


I’ll probably ended up using R134A just figured I’d through it out there and maybe someone out there could change my mind to try one of those other stuff to charge the unit.

coryc85

Great meeting you as well Junk! First of all thank you for the parts. Junk and I did some part swapping, and I hope the first of many times we meet up. Next up, your truck is coming along nicely. I am very envious of those SR5 seats, I had never seen any in person until yesterday...it's obvious now though that my DLX seats have to go. Anyway, you're a great guy and a real wealth of parts knowledge, so it was a pleasure.

bbrideau

i switched from r134a to r22 in the blazer and it blows at about 6 or 7 degrees Celsius if that is any consolation. And Red Tek sells it over the counter so you can do it at home, read up online their instructions are shotty on the back of the packaging.

Forgot to mention summer up here is in the 90-100 degrees Fahrenheit range.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Hey bbrideau, thanks for chiming in. I've been pondering the use of these HC-12a multiblend cooling gases. It is written by EPA that it is illegal to use HCF-12a and Duracool 12a as substitutes for CFC-12 in automobile or truck air conditioning under any circumstances. As mentioned before these are Propane and butane multi blend. Strange how they prohibit it in vehicles and people resist using it calling it flammable and can explode. Can anyone explain to me if it is that combustible then how is a retrofitted gas vehicles with propane not dangerous and there is a good amount of followers around that are using it. As a matter of fact in the State of Florida the Department of Agriculture beginning 2014 will be offering incentives for commercial vehicles using natural and propane vehicles? And Florida is a State that strictly prohibits the use of HCF-12a in your vehicle as a substitute for CFC-12. I'm thinking its more of health danger issue with propane leaking into the ventilation and flooding the vehicle with this gas.

By the way I do have a can of CFC-12/R-12 freon, just not enough to fill up the system. I am also looking at your common R152a that most people use for dusting their computers and keyboards. EPA has approved the use of R152a as a substitute for CFC-12. I've read that it cools better than R12 that is to be seen. I may give R-152a a try to see how good it is. Doesn't seem to require any special oil ester or PAG and a can of R-152a is available at any office supply computer store. Wally World has a can for $4.96. With changes to the rules R-134a will be phased out by 2017, R-744 and R-152a will be the main substitutes for cars produced then.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

A little over due is the muffler replacement. If you remember I installed a after market muffler, it came complete welded from tail pipe all the way up to the existing cat.

This is where it fitted up to the cat.



This is the muffler which is actually shorter than the oem muffler.


This is the hanger at the muffler. I believe Toyota OEM mufflers come with the hanger welded to the muffler not the piping. Hence the last remark smaller muffler.


This last picture is looking from the back. I really didn't like how they contoured the pipe as it sits to close to the leaf springs. I had to adjust it ao get it further away so it wouldn't hit the springs. OEM Pipe is curved further away.


The muffler works so far and its so much quieter than before with all those weld leaks and seal leaks. Can't beat the cost for an After market one, total cost for the entire setup was 70 bucks shipped.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Since I have been driving it around with all the idle issues which need to be attended to, I figured I'd post my estimated mileage since I've done some driving around South Florida over the past couple of days. I'm looking at about 19 miles a gallon and that's with the issue with the idles and I'm going to call dripping injectors, why it's because every time I took of the throttle body, there was gas in the manifold chamber, so I'm leaking. I suppose once I get it all cleaned up it should be about the same as I think the system is running lean, just my guess right now.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Replaced the Temp sensor here's the one i pulled out. You can see how clean it is. There's nothing wrong with it as the one I put in the truck is from the 86 4runner and it still doesn't change anything. I'm thinking of tinkering the TPS again to check it out, it may have slipped since I changed the screws to those hex type screw.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Ac work is moving along fair well. I purchased a drier from Napa Auto parts, it’s smaller than the OEM so the straps won’t secure tight when it’s on.



I mentioned in a prior post that I purchased some seals/o-rings. Here’s the o-ring kit.




Pull the evaporator out and soaked it for a while, then blew it out.




Cleaned it up pretty good.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Cory I decided to pull the blower box out to see how difficult it is and try and take care of those foam seals. So, here are some pictures for you to see how or where the nuts and screws are for you to pull it out.


This is where the nuts are at the top of the box.



This is where they screw into, kind of difficult to reach up under the dash and could barely get a 10mm wrench in there. Good thing I had a ratcheting 10mm wrench it made a world of difference.



Once you get it out you can see the opening at the top has a foam seal which I redid with some weather stripping I had lying around. you can see that this side requires foam on the flapper, this is the side I am most concerned with as it seals the outside air from coming in.

As i mentioned before I re-foamed the seal at the top with weather stripping that I had lying around.

Here's the other side of the flapper that also requires foam when it flips to close the return air vent from the inside.



While I had the blower box off and the intake air hole to the cowl was free from obstruction I decided to reach up in and see if anything was in there. Good thing there wasn't a snake in there reaching around like that, Haha... I did manage to pull a lot of leaves out then I stuck a hose in there and blasted some air there till I felt air blow out the fender.



It did take a bit of blowing before i felt the air, but it seems like it clear of debris.

coryc85

Excellent pics junk! I'll be getting in there this week to check mine out. Let me know if you find any good foam at the hardware stores.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Did a little test today on the vent with some weather stripping. Looks like it will work just fine.



You can see the press marks on the foam which means this should be enough to seal out the air from the outside. I will give it a try at least to see how well it will hold.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Okay I had a little time to play with this foam seal and it looks like it will work out okay only time will tell. I used this stuff i picked up at the local hardware store for door and windows weather stripping 1/4" thick and 1/2" wide. The had one that was 2" wide, but only 1/8" thick. I thought it would be to thin to work and as it looks I was right.

Hears what I got.


Tried running in a single length, but that didn't work on each turn it was either to short or would curl up, so i had to cut strips. Not the best of work, but it seals. I could of done better if the flapper would have come out of the housing, but the 2 part housing was actually sealed. On the parts that separated, they heat melted the seams so they are stuck together.

Here's a picture of the vent closed for outside air circulation.

It sealed up pretty good, I put a flash light inside and didn't get any light leaking through. And it compressed just enough to seal it, but not much to making it tough to close. I suppose I could have used something just a hair thicker maybe 5/16" or 3/8".


Here's a picture of the vent closed for inside air recirculation.



Got to say if this holds out, it would be good to keep out the warm outside air and recirculate only the inside cool air.

We all know that in a bunch of cases these weather stripping tend to deteriorate rather quickly, but in this case it is limited to the elements and torture of physical abuse. I just hope it will remain stuck on the flapper.

coryc85

Looks like a pretty good seal junk.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Been trying to get a cap tap to start adding the R152a to the system, but the local auto parts shop in my area don't seem to carry them some do, but they want 30 plus for it when the average price for it is usually $15.99.

Here's what it looks like.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Finally found the can tap for $16.99 on epay shipped for free. I hope to get it on Friday as noted on the listing. Going over to Wally World later this evening to see if I can pickup 3 cans of Ultra Duster (contains R152a if you read the msds sheet) I also a guy on you youtube yesterday using it as well just type in R152a on youtube and a few videos will popup.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

It is to hot to be outside and working on trucks here so I am looking for things that I can do inside. I will tinker around with the blower assembly for something to do. I think just doing the edges would work. Great idea using the foam from the hardware store. The ventilation systems do get dirty.

On your idle issue, could it be your brake booster? Reason I say this is you said you were at a light. I am currently having booster issues myself. I checked a spare I had and it seems to be failing test as well. I was at the yards the other day and all the boosters were gone from the few trucks that they did have. So that has me wondering if they are a weak part or a high fail part. Something I havent had to deal with in the past but always a first.

Always great getting to meet another Yotatecher. Sounds like you guys had a great time. I hear you on the humidity. It is rough on the old body over this way.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Hi Terry, I does work, but Cyberhorn the Dragon has a great material that one day I would like to try out. It covers the entire flapper maximizing heat and cold resistance transfer.

I am sure that there may also be an issue with the booster, since I started driving it, i can feel like there is a little resistance not as serious as it can be, but soon it may require more attention. I should of grabbed that booster off the truck that i got the tranny and hubs from, but I wasn't in a hurry and they want to scrap it since it was ready to be scrapped. Either way I am going to be looking for one, it's to bad you can really rebuild these.

It was very nice to meet up with someone who loves these runners as much as I have and I hope I can help him with a few of his needs when possible. You aren't kidding about the heat taking over our lives as we get older. Younger I use to ride up and down the turnpike windows open and forgot about the AC, today that doesn't even work, i sweat even doing 65mph with the vent windows, door windows and rear windows down. Doesn't seem to work as well as it did 25 years ago. I guess Age made the heat Very Hot...LOL

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Last week I ordered a Blower Resistor over the weekend I decided I should get the last one they had in stock. I called them yesterday and asked the guy there if he could order me another resistor blower and he said sure and i would come in and pay for them when I pick it up. I also asked him about the Pocket in the console since mine is cracked if he could get that for me. He checked and said it was discontinued, i gave him another part number and told him i know its beige, but could be painted over the grey I want. He checked and said he could get it, it's in California (hah chefyota has it all) He told me the ETA would be in about 2 weeks. I told him okay order it and I will come in to pay for the extra items on the order.

So early this morning I headed out to the dealer and picked up 2 resistors one for the 87 and one for the 86 when I'm ready to build it. Anyhow I got some decent deals on the parts only because they are OEM. The resistors cost me $10.60ea a discount of $2.95ea from the reg $13.55 and the pocket for the center console cost me $16.21 a discount of $5.44 from reg price of $21.75. That works for me.

coryc85

junk - you know, I do have that booster that I removed from my truck when I thought mine was bad...it passed all the tests in the FSM, but it was the only thing I had not changed so I swapped it and that was not the problem. I'd be glad to let you have mine on the condition that when you do find a replacement you give it to me. I just want to keep one for backup. You let me know if it becomes an issue and you need one urgently.

Very interested to see how this r152 pans out.