Thanks space-junk, I don't remember reading that particular answer from Jeff he answers it so often, I think I would have remembered the rx7 injectors maybe. Love this part at the end so I must quote him...
"At about this point, most of us get so frustrated trying to tune the motor that we ditch the stock ECU and move to a standalone http://22rte-trucks.com/simplemachin...fault/grin.gif Jeff"
Jeff's AFM page gives some advice on how many clicks to adjust based on upgrades. These are cumulative, so 4-6 clicks is his recommendation and having ran it at +2 already that would probably get me there.
1: Cone filter, CHECK it came without an airbox, Free flowing exhaust, CHECK it's the downtube/elbow/o2 housing and about 10-12 inches of the intermediate pipe plumbed into the wheel well.
"Maybe one click"
5: Moderate boost increase, CHECK thanks china for the tiny exhaust
"1-2 clicks"
6: Aggressivly increased boost(13.5-15psi), MAYBE again wtg China
"2-3 clicks"
7:"If you've added an intercooler and a bigger turbo, and are running over 12 psi of boost...you had better get some bigger injectors in that puppy, as you won't be able to increase the fuel delivery via the AFM enough to meet demands without hitting fuel cut!"

The oxygen sensor analysis HERE, Probably a red hering BUT.. If the learned trim is moderately rich (2nd voltage) or moderately lean (4th voltage) the system delivers the fuel +-10%. adjusting the gear 5 clicks (2% per tooth) should put it back near the middle voltage and give the ECU it's full range of trim back. I think it could maybe help? Here is why, if it's to far lean 11-20% at cruise when the demand for fuel comes it hits the maximum duty cycle sooner.

:bang:

Ruh roh.

​​​​what's that for?

also, I haven't forgotten to check my VAFM part number. just haven't been into the shop in a few days. will check tonight.

Three 10mm bolts hold the ECU, my lower one on the firewall is broken off. Wiper control is the green box, lives on a hanger behind the ECU.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...6f1b42a417.jpg

Battery voltage. 11.48
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...1fce966795.jpg

Vta, closed 0.66v
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...ef2bf022bc.jpg

Vta, open 3.73v
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...e3e412853b.jpg

Vcc, 5.00v
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...0fa98ccd11.jpg


Idl should be zero and isn't!! Double checked at the TPS sure enough no idle connection. Pulled it off and find the spring is bound up!! Top center is the bottom of the spring, there was a small hunk of granite under the armature here.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...6afcbe346f.jpg
It should be here..
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...1043811391.jpg


Spray scrubby spray scrubby.. I should have noticed how sluggish the spring was as often as I've handled it. If it doesn't snap back hard and crisp it is wrong fix it!!
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...3e005d1508.jpg

Hard to see but there is a tunnel the armature sits in, if you don't flood over that level it reduces any flow into the circuit area.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...430f5af4c7.jpg

I don't plan on drowning it but want to keep the dust down. So rtv and some paper towel will serve my need
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...015a397512.jpg

Reinstalled the TPS, throttle closed 0.01k.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...69a176b890.jpg

Don't have the exact size feeler. Using 0.203 + 0.66 = 0.863mm.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...4ebd4ba4d6.jpg

Press the stop against the feeler and the stop screw, there is a nice flat spot on top.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...673bbd9a2b.jpg

a moment about the FSM TPS adjustment procedure. It has you insert the TPS at its maximum CCW orientation. This is so the engagement is oriented correctly with the throttle pushing the sensor. Then it goes in to taking up the slack, and tells you to insert the 0.47mm and "rotate cw until the needle deflects". You need to take up any slack between the throttle and the sensor and any slack in the sensor. So if it's not zero with the 0.47mm, and it fluctuates at all when you touch it that is deflection tighten it! The next two will be in spec with the .5mm it's under 2k, .8 it's open.

You can totally tweak it with in the limits. As long as .5 isn't to close to open and 8 is open. About more on his in a second.

Anyways I stabbed that blind just took out the mechanical slack tightened it up and tested with .5 and .8mm. back to voltage readings at the ECU.

Vta, 0.33
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...9320b57682.jpg

Vta, 3.66
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...22798d7551.jpg

Vcc, 5.0
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...35cebe82e4.jpg


Vta is out of spec wot is 4-5v. So fiddle with the TPS. Adjust it to 4.01 wot, idle doesn't contact! Finally settled with..

0.45v closed
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...02d2677f9d.jpg

3.77v wot
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...0248084e32.jpg

No pics..

finished all the above TPS fun, and reset the gear +4 from the -2 it was at when I got to cold and stopped yesterday, capped the leaking oil for the manual gauge, check and top fluids. I let it warm up a little and it idled fine.

Test method is a rolling start 50mph cruise to WoT, simulation of "get outta the way" on the highway or a passing situation. Made two attempts and triggered the code. If it down shifts or unlocks(?) It's more touchy?
Next Test 1st gear WoT, boost should hit ~7 by 2400 (and stabilize?!). I read 6 at the plenum as it passes thru 2400-3000. The dash glitches, some lamps between 3-3500 arent lit. As my brain processes that.. Indicated speed hits 40, 45 actual. RPM somewhere over or near 4000, 12psi showing at the wastegate.

I let it shift, put it in D, and cruise back to the turn around. Idled it a little while I pondered over the results and decided a little bit more cw should keep it running during most down shift needs.

Adjust to +6, and repeat test. This time it triggers at the kick down also but it recovers and hardly bucked any more than the shifting. As I am scanning gauges slight miss maybe speeds high rpm is high, pressure at the waste gate climbs thru 20! Letting off the throttle I read 15psi at the intake.

It's smoking as a I pulled into the turn around!! Oil pressure is good, shut it off and check the hoses are all there and we're not about to become a torch. Every thing is still on the turbo, drain might be binding. Shout you know what as I get the screw driver to reset the AFM. Proceed to drive it back and try not build any boost.

Could be just the drain bent or too much crank case pressure. I let it smoke and idle long enough to listen to the oil pan area and valves didn't hear any major changes no gnomes hammering.

Not enough light or warmth left to look into it.

PS. My heater fan resistor needs replacing I lost the middle settings.

​​​

I made a thread on my fix for the idl e2 spring issue. I'll find and post here for you.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...e2-fix-286302/

Thank you!
I have seen that I think, there was another similarly that had a bad return spring recently I recall they just replaced it and I cringed at the stealer-ship price.

I did consider increasing the tension untill I found all the mud and grit. It didn't look like I could get it around 180* to the other notch, and it would have to fish under the mechanism. It was while I was looking how to fish it around the biggest chunk fell out. I might never of thought to stretch some tension into it and re link it, well done

I didn't detail the cleaning. It got picked for the big stuff, a tooth brush scrub and lubricated with silicone spray. If my resistance strip wasn't so worn-out it would be good as new I expect I'd get the full voltage range. All in all I'm still ahead with all the refurbishing that TPS has gotten vs the cost of a dealerships sensor, but might be getting close to a knock off (th212 iirc)

Number two looks wet. Leaky injector?

Wow it sure gets cold fast with no sunshine and a little breeze.

Ok so plug #2 was wet as seen above.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...77283b5a4b.gif

the #6 bolt in the diagram, moved about 1/2-3/4 of a turn before it clicked 45ft/lb. Went over them all 5lb at a time up to the 65ft/lb spec, actually 64 so I didn't stretch anything, but its a harbor torque wrench so who knows what that actually is. I got maybe 2-3cc of water thru or settled in the exhaust, excessive for my 3ft of exhaust but about normal condensation wise on a full length one. Re wired the plugs and it fired on the 3rd rev, not billowing steam I get a too short to identify puff of blue, grey, and green? I get out and examine exhaust there is a little bit of residual moisture that blows away at 2000 rpm. My cold idle kind of sucks, or it wasn't cold enough, so I held the revs at 12-1500 untill the oil & water temp came up then went and poked around at the engine.


Exhaust is dry, doesn't smell sweet. I can get a little chuff of oil from the turbo when the throttle is snapped closed since there is no blow off valve. It does have some misfires I'm hoping is heal-able and not a valve.

Very wet, some fuel obvious from the odor and it evaporated to a smaller puddle, some coolant, maybe a little bit of oil but I couldn't taste it over the antifreeze :drink:. I tried to capture the little murky puddle on the ground arm but it wouldn't cooperate and evaporated so I just used the group picture.

Guess I need go hit the loan-a-tool for the compression tester again. I don't have air so I'll have to hillbilly something up or pay for a leak test.

I have the spare head-gasket and intakes. And it looks like with the fuel line off the front of the rail you can get that long bolt out of the head? After that it's just twister to get the lower ones out and the Intake will "fall off" to the side? I'd need to drop the turbo off the exhaust mani to get the studs clear, but the turbo would stay in. The Dside accessories are on the head also but they "fall off" and stay with the vehicle. Then it's prayers, and zip ties for the cam sproket.

God willing and the creek don't rise! I've only mildly abused the head-gasket learned my lessons and I'll find I didn't get a plug wire all the way on or left something loose.

Was this a new head gasket or already on it? Sorry o haven't actually followed your thread. If it was new it's possible that tightening it up will do the trick since it was so loose. 3/4 of a turn is alot.

And i personally have a harbor freight click wrench and i always add 5lbs. If rather it be to tight by five than to loose by 5

Oh it's uhm post #45 that gives details. In short I put somewhere between 20-15psi of boost into it not skipped over that one bolt while torqueing the head on. It's a long block from sunwest, with 80 miles I think it is showing now. I originally was going to recheck them at 50, but pushed it back to 100 and do it while I did fluids, and didn't so it might have already stretched or settled. They were tight cold and after the valve adjustment after that I don't know I had the other issues.

I think what causes a lot of head gasket failures is the head bolts loosening up. #6 and #3 I have seen loose on several occasions and caused it to blow a head gasket. Never had one on the Intake side loose, just the exhaust side.

Radiators
 

Old
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...bec7cd9025.jpg

the oil slick that was in the radiator, not a drop made it into the drain pan when emptied the Cooling system. It is all in there some where.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...d9ed3e4e56.jpg

This radiator does not fit the core is to short, doesn't have the turbo line, and is only two row. Failed machine pick from the database but it let me move the water line closer to the side, and gives more room for a fmic which is sure to help the 2 row vs 3 row cooling. Will worry about that come summer maybe, untill then it's a snow machine uh if we ever get any snow..
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...02024846be.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...49f7312cb1.jpg

Pics
 

Assembly mark on rear of shaft
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...5fd42700ae.jpg


Pink pinion
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...3878f9105c.jpg

Drop of fresh gear oil floating in the nasty stuff.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...24db9e5393.jpg

Click start issues.
 

Link #1, Ray's awesomeness

Auxiliary fuses, relay boxes, and engine bay layout..
 

I haven't really decided what to locate where inside the engine bay exactly yet, but since I suckered the kid into welding my exhaust I need to prep a list of what all he and his brother really get to help do. Sorry kiddos love ya bunches, surprise!!

I have the oil filter to deal with and the 4runner is going to need the obligatory auxiliary fuse panel and various relays. Weld nuts, reinforcements and bracketry on right side inner fenders.

All the valve cover clutter needs to be moved to the runner side of the plenum. One plate, probably just band clamps to hold it.

The ignition wires get new stand offs not on the cover and hopefully not off the exhaust either. Don't see that is happening without being more in the way and they will wind up attached to the exhaust with a heat choke cut into the stand off.

Air cleaner needs a stabilizer bracket, actually it needs an air box built around it and the outside air reestablished. Two no three birds with one stone there. Might need to arrange some metal, maybe a half sheet of medium or light gauge, so we have plenty and aren't digging through piles of scrap for hours looking for a piece "just one more inch" bigger. Or a dishwasher.

The power steering vacuum lines just flop around. Need a bracket off the distributor or the hot air tube. The tube will go away if I put the fmic so I guess maybe something off the wire clip.

I have none of the turbocharger attached heat shields. If I have to buy a sheet to do the air box and the price isn't crazy I can do the box from AL and have heat shields too. Anything is better than what I have to keep the radiant down, because I have nothing but air and that's wrong for sure.

Tailgate spring guide perch needs fabricated and welded in. U shaped metal bracket that holds up one end of the spring guide.

There is a hole punched into the driver's side that is plugged with rtv this needs welded. Unless of course I get the plug out and it is an obvious bullet wound I might have to preserve it.

If we, meaning they, are really ambitious we can tackle some patch panels for the passenger side.

Firewall to floorpan needs repaired on the driver's side, passenger side needs fully inspected. Some over ambitious clearance made by the PO, intentionally or trail I don't know.

That is all I can think of right now. Asking as I get exhaust the rest is gravy.

In the future.. There are some rather long vacuum lines I would like to see ran as hardline from point to point with hose junctions at flex points that need them. The vacuum resivore dohicky located under the battery for example and the charcoal canister, also the vacuum pump near the cruise actuator, all these would combine into a tidy manifold along the firewall

Found out what the stumbling, missing, noise I heard was.
#4 Spark-plug wasn't torqued down and spun as I put the socket on it to pull it. Can see the blow by carbon up the threads.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...2f68a4efb7.jpg

Cold compression. #1, 120 @ 8 revs. #2-4, 125 @ 10 revs. These pictures are reversed, 4-1, I started with #1 but couldn't see the gauge 8 revs started to slow down so I stopped. #2 I could see it still climbing so went to 10 revs before my lame batteries started to give out. Spec in the 88 manual is low 120, High 149, 14 psi variance.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...70457a7ea3.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...32d2997583.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...4bab7326d1.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...ce5a277468.jpg

Water in the pipes again.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...c2bada9ff3.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...173f9a3e65.jpg
-- supposed to be a video clip here --

Hot compression: Aborted, steam heard venting into cylinder #2 once the spark-plug was removed.
-- supposed to be a video clip here --

I guess it wants me to change out that gasket before we can be friends again.

Uploading photos to the Album "36522 HG#1", 46 of them a couple blurry or duplicate.

When I left off I was trying to set the lower intake onto its studs and just couldn't see anything down in there, cold and dark ran me inside.

And I just remembered I forgot to put the bolt back in the EGR plate that holds the "heater hose of frustration" while I had the head on the bench, So I get to sit on top of the engine and put that back in tomorrow. There is a intake bolt that sits behind the IACV and it's a PITA to get to. but it gets even worse the one behind the OEM oil cooler water pipe has just a few mm between the bolt head and the water line I'm going to have to replace the line If I have to bend it that hard to many more times.

I think I should have just pulled the motor out it would have gone smoother maybe, but I didn't want to rehang all the AT fluid lines of all things which is silly because they're easy. I wound up spending 30 minutes or more on each of 3 stubborn bolts, the two intake bolts and a head bolt. Interesting note the rear drivers side head bolt and the heater line interfere, don't pinch your finger between them if the bolt binds your in trouble. I had the heater hose jammed flat with my thumb and the bolt jammed in the head from too much angle so slipped out of my other hand, and I almost had to hollar for help to get loose.


#1
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...1b2128d2af.jpg

#2
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...3bed585279.jpg

#2, closeup.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...626a4abfe7.jpg

You can see some abnormal wear, vertical marks, to the cylinder walls in #2 and #3. Cant say for sure if that was machine shop debris, dry start, or what. Just speculating the rings and cylinders weren't pre-lubed, since It didn't give any smoke at start up.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...2cc8e71b0d.jpg

TODO: Detail photos: alternator wire routing, waste-gate mount & compressor housing clearance

Just for giggles..

A = π r2
92mm /2 ~= 1.811025"
A ≈ 10.3
compression + boost = 125 + 20 = 145 psi
145 psi * 10.3" = 1493.5 lbs

1493.5 lbs trying to shove the head off the engine BEFORE the fuel ignites.

This project makes me jelly!! Gonna build a 22RE turbo some day. 4Runner is so slow!! For now keep it up, fun reading your work!

Hi'a Reluctanse, it's a .. hobby ? And been an interesting ride so far. I almost drove it farther with that cracked out turbo and toasted cam shaft than I have the new long block. Can't be more than ten mile difference. :safari:

There is a big difference riding in it when it's not billowing oil clouds, people are friendly for a start. Even my multiple colored rusty exterior gets lots of smiles. I think it kind of looks like a Christmas tree, but I am color blind, red blue and green that should be grey.

I can sort of imagine what it would have looked like on a dyno when it came apart. It has certainly got the factory torque and horsepower with the factory tune and then some. Thanks china, no sarcasm this time!

I can't imagine I pulled the kind of power out of mine that Jeff shows on This dyno. 250 at 15 psi on 91 pump gas. Apples to potatoes, his 57/63 fancy turbo and my speedyracer diesel ct20's clone ect. But if my gauges are anywhere near reliable, and I think they are, I had at least 15psi and probably a bunch more on 91 pump gas. Concervative buttocks dyno says 150 for sure, it would have kept pulling even on three cylinders. If I'd stayed in the throttle it would have came apart in spectacular fashion in excess of 100 mph :att:

It's not in the first post which injectors he is running, post's February of 2006, but I'm sure it could be found he's documented very well. Think he has 30 to 100% more fuel capability than I do at that point, 400-700 ish CC maybe.

Here is one on CL, says it had a fender bender but there don't seem to be any pictures of it after. It's a looker for sure.. they are out there when you are ready.

I shouldn't do this math much less in public. Call me a masochist I guess, but nobody I get in trouble with reads yotatech and you could add it up if ya looked online. That's cheaper than I am into mine, but mine "comes with" a shop-shed full of engine swapping tools and most of a spare engine.

And honestly if you want that wild 20 psi ride I took, plan on a standalone EFI 'cause whoa! And some spare parts.

I forgot that coolant pipe bolt to the block off plate bolt as well.

With the rubber hoses from the heater valve and core disconnected is not that bad to get to.

I knew I should have stopped reading this early on but no I had to shine the light down the dark tunnel..

Blazeland ball joint spacer thread

I was laying over the passenger tire today while I disconnected the ECU harness from the transmission and I figured out why my tire rubs on that side. My spacers were poorly installed or have shifted in the UCA. Looking down from the top there is a crescent of day light showing at the outer edge that isn't present on the other side. So the top of the spindle is moved inward and my frame isn't canted to the right, yay.

Looking at the stock UCA pictures you can see the inner bolt holes are slightly under the lower shell of the UCA. When the bolts are extended they will intersect it, so the modification is needed. Restoring the stiffener is a good step it will reduce the tearing, but I think that cut out is still leaving too much gap. If the spacers weren't made of AL and say steel they could be stitch welded to the UCA on all three sides. Then that lower plate of the UCA would need to find a new failure mode.

Not sure how I will address these problems. Don't know what mine looks like yet but I'd wager it's just a grind job. So problem one is the slop in the BJ placement since they lack a locating pin or positive keying of any type. Roll pins added thru the upper plate, or try and address it with the lower plate issues by giving it something one that inside lip to seat against. Roll pins might be OK for getting them located close to where they were in an r&r reliably, but they would tear if it shifts from impact. Having a backing plate only limits the in out placement.
​

Progressing
 

I couldn't get the harness disconnected from the transmission yesterday or I could have prepared the intake for new gasket goo last night. So I spent (wasted) most of my daylight getting those three surfaces clean. About the time I was ready to start rehanging parts the clouds rolled in, just as I doused my hands in fuel putting the fuel line on. Not sure I could handle Alaska, I'd get the darwin award, I kept forgetting not to hold cold metal with soft fleshy bits like the socket extension in my mouth brrrrr.

Very cold brittle harness unplugged, intake runners regasketed, upper harness section reattached, plenum regasketed, vacuum lines restored, water lines plumbed, bolt back in the EGT cooler, exhaust manifold rehung, turbo waterline to block reconnect and turbo hung, PS brackets attached to head, ground wire restored, distributor installed.

To-do
electrical under intake, intake pipes and AFM, electric across engine bay, and fluids! Oh and I guess I better figure out why the lower PS brackets aren't lining up, if it's that crazy puzzle stuff again where you loosen this that and another thing then tighten them up in yet another order I might run with out a belt and tough it out. And where my missing pliers are cause in the fan would be bad for sure.

Here is the photos you asked me for. Late as usual.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...ab257b3452.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...8d994ee386.jpg

Interesting, unless I am missing something our part numbers should be the same but aren't. 35020 and 35040. Also the castings aren't identical, mine has casting marks where yours is flat. Yours has engravings and numbers stamped into the housing also that are not on mine.

Edit. I found the stamped numbers, well part of them ay least in one of the photos I took. Maybe a casting sequence they don't match either.

I forgot to tighten the lower radiator hose and started pouring in the coolant, it reminded me by spewing a few ounces down my shoe and up my arm pit as I raced to get it snugged up. I don't know how I lost a pair of vise grips with Bright Yellow handles, but they weren't in the engine bay suspension or laying on the ground. I really need peg boards, and to use them.

One gallon of fresh oil, one new over sized oil filter, roughly 1.25 gallons of coolant, and a dead battery. Jump boxed it and it spewed the expected water out of the turbo and exhaust and quickly cleared up. I used the flush cap to vent air when I filled the radiator initially and spilled coolant over the exhaust, got a great smoke show and had to soak up a few CC's of it off the top of the exhaust manifold were it collects water near the flange.

I neglected to cinch up the band clamp to the throttle body and it blew off at 4PSI, done that twice now it's an OEM 10mm hex head with a phillips center, as I was circling the alleyways.

Timing is a bit off something like 6.5-5.5, I didn't want to argue with it and insist on 5* since the distributor kept rotating back to there. ( Could be the trucks soul, or just the plug wires under tension )

Loaded up the jugs to be recycled and headed to the parts store. I am in the habit of popping the hood while it idles down and checking for leaks or anything rubbing or shifted ect, so I do that in the parking lot and everything looks great. I shut it off and forgot to roll the window down to get my jugs out of the back. When I tried to restart it I hardly get even a click and the speedo goes bonkers. I've decided at this point the speedometer is my voltage warning system. I jump box it again drop the window and shut it off thinking that little darn jump box was worth every penny. So I browse the store while they empty my mostly oil jug.

Pulling the cable off the battery its totally corroded on both sides. I wound up getting a shining clean spot about half way around on both with one of the few tools I have on hand, 10-14mm box ends. I neglected to run the brush over them when I hooked it back up and flud it with grease. Voltage limits to 14.60 when I checked across the battery and bring the rpm up over 2000.

The manuals list these as 13.9-15.1 at 77* and 13.5-14.3 at 250*. It doesn't say engine coolant temp or alternator housing, but since that area is extra cramped on the RTE it's probably all the same. It wasn't much above freezing out if any and I think closer to 20 I was afraid to look it would have sent me back inside.

I'll need to scrub the crud off the positive cable again and remember to coat it this time. I recall I got distracted looking for a brush to scrub the outside and make it pretty and forgot the goo!

Heater working great, doesn't seem to be any substantial air in the system, but it's only blowing high. I'm not sure if I have spare blower resistors for the 2wd or if the first and second gens share that plug I think they changed them.

Cold and 30 wire loom do not agree. I was manipulating the AC idle up wire and snapped the external sheath twice. I found the ignition wires (ECU-Ignitor) have butt splices approximately over the exhaust manifold, because the sheath cracked and shifted down more. I also have lovely exposed wire along that run also. I'll probably find a harness at the salvage yard and dissect out the wires I need full length and properly color coded. As long as I find a few pigtails missing I don't mind cutting a harness open, the guys that need or want harnesses want them intact and they reject the cut off ones. Sourcing full run wires has the benefit of just needing to push out the old pins and insert the new wires as a single loom, I can maybe tackle a harness build before I'm to old.

I have a little random pop type misfire at idle I suspect is they crappy plugs I put back in it

Just an FYI, this is a reman'd VAFM. Dont even know if its the correct one for the truck. It came on the truck and the truck ran and drove fine with it, so im assuming it is correct or at least works fine.

Sounds like you have the kind of luck I have. Now when I am working on a motor, I fill it with water and make sure I have no leaks. I have bought way to much antifreeze just to have it leak all over the floor. Always something like a loose clamp or some seal that did not take no matter how much I try to get it right the first time. Looking for tools is half the time involved in working on trucks from my experience. lol

Oil specs pre 88. Valve & tappits
 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123/valve-wear-298418/#post52347389

I might have pictures of them but I doubt it, I am not a polar bear I was rushing to not freeze.. None specifically targeting them but they photobombed my head gasket pictures, which is why we keep these build logs Yay!

two angles of the overview.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...93296a3870.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...790dd99e9e.jpg

The best close up, #2 exhaust.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...51082f4ed1.jpg

4 thru 1.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...8146773b3f.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...578b76305e.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...3bed585279.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...1b2128d2af.jpg

Maybe they got new molds after they made mine or the remanufacturing did a sweet job cleaning up the housing on that one . Mine has some of the doohickeys from casting along the outlet top.

I like to do that water thing usually also, my local parts store doesn't take coolant for recycling either so I'm stuck with it. If it's just water or lightly contaminated water if can let it evaporate off, safely of course it's sealed inside the pickup bed and topper in a cement mixing tub. I know the upull in Denver sells recycled antifreeze maybe they'll take it.

I wondered about why a mentor takes on an apprentice, aside from love of the subject matter it has to be the tool thing. Nothing beats saying 10mm and a wrench appearing in your reach.

I've got a bit of a system for sockets if I keep the 10mm and 14mm in one pocket I can tell them apart from the 12mm in the other. But I still tend to "loose" them on the end of extensions.

ECT, diagnostic port
 

DG - Located near the TE1 connection on the left inner fender. Is this a separate connector from the larger diagnostic plug? Y-w wire, in 88.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...32e56a3b96.jpg

.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...9c3de83184.jpg

I intended just to make a note of where the DG wire was but there is interesting stuff here.

DG engine off, voltage corisponding to throttle angle. I can't find the connection between these three? TPS IDL connects to both the ECT and TCCS ECU, but I don't see Vta (throttle angle) at the ECT ECU.

TCCS and ECT interconnects are
IDL, L1, L2, L3 and OD1

oh there it is...
L1-L3 are Inputs to the ECT from the TCCS, the voltage sweeps from 5v closed to 0v open throttle.

This all sort of relates to the TPS tweaking I did trying to make sure the TCCS sees WOT. With max throttle angle we should see zero volts on the L# and eight volts on DG.

Now what I thought was interesting was the DG output while the engine is running. This gives the ability to have a electronic indicator of not only the current gear but TC lockup! TC lockup is a big factor on heat buildup.

To-do: locate and photo DG.

No progress
 

Weather station near my house is reporting 42* @ 7am, awesome!

Not really because I'm still out of state to do my exhaust.

The weather station here says -4*.

TPS Vta
 

1995 FSM
eg1-162
ECM reference data...

According to this any angle greater than 70 is considered WOT. Anything less than 5 is closed.

I don't have the reference source handy but IDL disconnects at around 1.5*

Injector flow rates
 

Flow rate calc link
Fuel pressure and injector data, link

Start with primary pressure, 29psi (RTE middle, low)
Estimated orifice, 1.45mm
fudge in numbers for the CE, 0.14
Flow rates: 277.04cc/min ÷ 4 = 69.26

Primary: 35 psi (RTE middle high, late RE middle low)
Flow: 304.3533cc/m ÷ 4 = 76.08832

Primary: 41 (late RE middle high)
Flow: 329.4083cc/m ÷ 4 = 82.35208

Primary: 44 (late RE high)
Flow: 341.2483cc/m ÷ 4 = 85.31208

Primary: 57 ( fuel pump relief pressure )
Flow: 388.4017cc/m ÷ 4 = 97.10042


Translation... If I use the late model RE regulator with the RTE injectors I can get about 10% more fuel with the same duty cycle ( injector open time ). And if I overload the fuel pump it'll flow upwards of 35-40% more.

I don't need more I realize this but I think I want it and a standalone EFI. Ha.

OK that entertained me for a little while. Back to wishing it was warm outside..

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...torial-196405/

https://www.diyautotune.com/support/...toyota-pickup/

http://www.22rte-trucks.com/simplema...hp?topic=990.0

My power steering idler ate it's bearings and locked up.

Pulled the assembly off, removed the retaining clip, and removed the bearing. Almost half the balls are AWOL, there were several separators mashes into the ones that were there.

It appears to be the none sealed bearing type "204".

Not sure what to replace it with, consensus is it's a 6204-something but there are lots of letter subtypes. Timken website didn't have an easy to find description of the letter codes.

Can source the alternator bearing from Toyota, which seems the same open backed one I removed. Or the whole pulley from the local part store, the locals have the alternator bearing listed but it's only 2-3$ more for the pulley and bearing..

Still haven't gotten around to the downpipe fab, maybe tomorrow : eyes crossed :

Merci! I opened those off your thread for tonights reading materials. I started reading some of these the other day and realized even the plug and play stuff is probably going to be a little fiddling and tweaking.