The paint project is coming along nicely. Are these the door clips you were saying break? It says yellow for drivers side, white for passenger. They are $5.99 for 10 on eBay. The dealers near me do not stock any parts. I went to get something for the 3rd gen and had to wait 4 days for it. eBay or online Toyota dealers are faster and cheaper!

 

Hello Nervo19... That does look like them. Can you post the link for them? I normally get parts from Overstock or Partseast if I am positive I know what I am getting. The Joplin dealer has always been quick for me. I hear other dealers are slow. I am getting ready to order ball joints for my 3rd gen and wont be getting them from my local dealer. Whew!!! They are expensive. Surprised at the difference in cost from Toyota place to another.

I am hoping to get the cab painted and back on the frame in the next couple of days. If all goes as planned I will be starting on the bed soon. Wanting to get the truck painted before temps drop.

 

They are 5.78 plus 1.99 shipping for 10. They are shipped from China but I've been buying LED bulbs from China and they arrive in 5 or 6 days. The seller has a ton of other clips that look Toyota familiar.




http://www.ebay.com/itm/Each-10-Pcs-69293-12050-69293-12060-Door-Lock-5mm-Rod-Size-Clip-A20534-A20535-/400778117503?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d503cc17f

 

Thanks Nervo19...I will get some of those on order soon. Seems like I am always needing them.

 

Got the cab painted. Supposed to have some help getting the cab on the frame tomorrow. My shop is a mess from painting. There will be a big clean up day when I get the cab back on. Always is when I paint, but is all to due to painting. Most of the material laying around has to do with it.


Put a light coat on the inside to hide the white. I will be insulating the inside so much of it will be covered.


Hood is painted.


My air hose splashed a little water on the drivers fender. I bumped the edge of the passenger fender with the air hose and the lid was not completely on when I clear coated the roof so have a few drops that I will need to wet sand later. Hope alot of this will buff out. May be hard to see but is it right on the crease on the passenger fender.

 

It looks white in the pictures but is more of a tan. I will try to get some better pictures later showing the true color.

 

its the lighting terry the hood cause its near outside shows the tan best she looks good man and a better paint job than the factory did as well

 

Thanks Cyberhorn... My oldest says it looks like a grandma color. I think they dropped him on his head or switched him at birth at the hospital at birth. I am still looking into that. lol, If I was going to paint truck black this would be the one. I am glad I didnt as it still has a couple of flaws. To get one arrow straight really takes some work. I asked a guy how he gets one perfectly straight and he says alotttt of guide coat. I would of liked to do that but the cost and time, I would be on it 10 years from now.

Some of the clear orange peeled on me and I usually get half of the trucks for the clear to lay down smooth and the other half not so much. Overall I am really happy with how it has come out. I am getting really good at wet sanding an buffing, haha, I wont be able to get the cab on til later until later in the day when others get off of work so I will be giving the shop a good cleaning and installing a few parts. I finally get to start REASSEMBLY, Wahoo!!

Just found out the kids dont have school today as for teachers meetings. They are going to get to help in cleaning the shop, another psotive for the day.

 

Looking good Terry. I really like that color.

 

Thanks 85sr5excab...Hopefully some of the next pictures will show it better or I might get some later today if all goes as planned.

 

Got my headlight buckets in. I also painted the core support similar to the way Toyota would of done it. This is how it was and most trucks I have seen done this way.


Cant afford to buy new stuff just for the labels but I have an Overflow bottle and Starter relay with the print on them so I cleaned them as best as I could.


Cleaning and painting parts that I can that wont be in the way later. Got the brake and clutch lines in. I left my booster at another shop or would of gotten that in.


These go around the heater core. Where I used to work at, we use automatic transmission fluid to freshen up rubber seals and such. Got them in the firewall now.


Another view with them in and the windshield motor.


One side window in and hopefully a better view of color.


I found a set of door seals on a camper that were in great shape. If you have strong fingers, sometimes you can squeeze the tabs to get them to release from the door. The squeeze tab is 90 degrees oppisite of the hook tab that goes to the door seal.


Here it is in the door seal.


Removing the door seals gives it a cleaner look when done.


Another view of the tab that holds the door seal.


I am working on several different things. The window crank on this one is good. The cone where the pivot pin is, is nice an tight (where my thumb is). If it is wallowed out, you will need to replace the window crank. I have run out of grease, but eventually I will put a light coating on all pivot points. The biggest reason the windows get hard to roll up is the rubber seal in the door just needs silicone grease to make it roll up so much easier. I have that posted on my 88 Runner build below if info is needed.


Here I am letting the seals soak. Water was clean but now is nasty!!! This is the windshield cowl strip. A wire brush will help get some of the gunk and dead rubber off. Also have the other door seal soaking.


Here is the window seal that goes into the door. One big fix for hard to roll up windows is to soak the track in silicone. Makes a big difference. After I get the windows in I will use some black sealant to help hold them into the tracks.


Waiting for some people to get home from work and hope to have the cab on the frame here soon. Getting closer.


Got the cab on at 7:15 this evening. The black and tan goes together will well. I have always liked chrome but the black does look good on it. If I keep it balck and tan, I would have to call this the Dobermin Pincher.

 

Your truck is looking amazing Terry! I really like the color! That's a good tip using the silcone spray on the tracks, I need to do that, I also need to replace my driver door window crank, I'm pretty sure the teeth are stripped and missing, I'll try to get to it before winter hits.

I wish I had your paint skills/knowledge and the equipment to do it, I'd like to do a color change on my 4runner someday, but being that its in pretty good shape, I can't justify it right now, lol.

The doberman pincher, I like that, ha, ha!

 

Great wok Terry! That's a great tip on the windows. I need to dig into mine. They are near impossible to operate when it's cold out.

 

I really really like that color. Rite now I'm envisioning brown factory sr5 stripes..........regardless what u do this thing is going to be extremely nice.

 

Hello Ed.. The silicone can make a big difference. I have struggled with windows in the past that almost would strip the handles splines out. It will take two or three coats and working the window up and down to get it worked into the rubber, but if that is the problem, it will make it where you can roll the window with just your thumb and pointer finger. It can make that big of a difference.

I would keep the factory paint as long as it will last. Sometimes a good buffing will bring it back to life. A repaint is not nearly as rugged as the factory paint. All mine are so bad that a repaint was the only way to go. This truck was repainted and had lots of runs in it and really wasnt done the best.

I am grateful for the skills I have, now I just want to learn more. Welding is one and when I get a welder, I will be asking you alot of questions.

Your Welcome Mark...It can make a tremendous difference. It seems to work even in extreme cold as well for me. Mine did great last winter and it was coldddd.

Thanks 85sr5excab... I will eventually get SR5 stripes on it, might be a while but that is what will really make it pop. It looks great sitting on the black frame. To bad most of the frame is going to be covered up, urgh!!!

 

When I had to pull my Steering Column, I had to pull from the wheel to the ragjoint. Normally you should be able to seperate it at the bottom of the column, in the center of the shaft or at the ragjoint. Not the case for me and not the first time I have experienced this. The shaft is designed to collapse in the event of a head on collision to keep the steering wheel out of your chest. Every shaft I have seen, the center section is frozen.

Once I get the shaft assembly out, I soak it in PB Blaster or something similar and just use a rubber hammer to expand and compress it until it works its way free. This one took the Big Freaking Hammer to get worked free. Been soaking for quite a few days and still would not seperate at the column or center section.

Should be able to remove bolt and then compress shaft to get out. Most shaft will not compress due to rusted together. With the shaft in a vise and a hammer, I got it to seperate.


I had to use a punch on this to get to seperate along with trying to compress it with a rubber hammer. Finally got it. I cleaned it up and it is operating great now. I do have a spare that I might use instead.


Cleaned my tranny up. Still have a little more cleaning to do and will get some new gaskets for it.


This is my passenger door and it does open like it should from the inside. The drivers side does not. I was comparing the two trying to figure out why the passenger did and not the driver. I then seen this little foam. It helps hold the rod into the valley impressed in the door and that little bit makes the door open.


Here is the valley with the door handle pulled to open it and you can see where it is out of the valley.


Not the best fix in the world but is a better system then what Toyota did and it is working great now. I drilled two holes and used a ziptie. I will see if it is going to interfere when I stick my windows back in and let you know if this will work. Either way it will be a similar fix if it does interfere unless someone has a better idea on to do it.

A friend of mine and me have seen this issue several times and surprisingly I dont ever see this pop up on Yotatech or even seen a thread on it.

High Tech door fix.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Lock-Cylinder-BECK-ARNLEY-201-1422-fits-84-87-Toyota-Pickup-/271419646650?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1986%7CMake%3AToyota%7CModel%3A4Runner&hash=item3f31df22ba&vxp=mtr

 

Dang,gonna be the nicest looking 85 in Missouri!!!

 

Trucks com along nicely Terry. Glad to see that you are able to find time to work on them while it's nice.

 

Thanks Chris and Mark...I am doing my best to take advantage of the great weather while we still have it. I got a list a mile long that I want to get done and need to get done. Hoping we have some kind of fall instead of going straight from summer to winter.

 

I have been going thru my steering column. For some who may not know how to get the ignition switch out, it easy. Been a lot of stolen trucks popping up on the main page lately.

The key has to be in the ACC position. When it is there, just use a small allen wrench and push in the tab. This will let the switch slide out. Reason it has to be in the ACC position is the tab at the bottom of the assembly.

Release button.


Button and tab I was mentioning.


I understand that Beckley Arney are parts provider for Toyota. Here is a link for a new ignition switch I will eventually give a try.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Lock-Cylinder-BECK-ARNLEY-201-1422-fits-84-87-Toyota-Pickup-/271419646650?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1986%7CMake%3AToyota%7CModel%3A4Runner&hash=item3f31df22ba&vxp=mtr