I understand the basics of diagrams but if you see something I am misinterpreting, let me know.

 

Copied from Page 12.

One problem found, just got to find out how to fix it. With KEY ON, I am supposed to have 12 Volts on the Positive of the Coil.
I have not been able to find out how to test in Haynes or on the net. This is out of my FSM. Electric test is easy. The screw is the ground to the igniter with the bracket. With the KEY ON you just look for 12 volts from the ground screw to each of the coils post. Where you hook up the battery it says you have 5 seconds. I think I will pass doing that test. It would take me 5 seconds just to see what is on the meter. My eyes are not as fast as they used to be.


The other problem.

 

After looking into some other things that are butchered up on the wiring on this truck. Some of the wiring doesnt match with some spare harnesses that I have, so I have decided to just swap the entire harness. I have 5 harnesses that I can make one good one out of. I also have a lead on two others that I might not have to go that route. Either way, I can swap a harness and feel better with that I can do then trying to make the one in this truck work.

I got a manifold the other day and just noticed that there is a difference in the type of pipes that are connected to them. I probably see it before but it never caught my attention. I will show below.

When I remove a motor, I will cut the pipe just to avoid getting a leak where the pipe connect to the manifold. I didnt cut this pipe so I will add one of my spares to it if I can get it to seperate easly. If the studs break loose from the manifold, I have had them to keep getting loose. That is the reason I cut the pipe and just have the muffler shop reweld it for me.

Also this one is cracked or I would not seperate the two. I will soak it in penetrating oil for a few days to help loosen the nuts. Until then I will work on the pretty factor. (Paint it)

Differences in pipes. 2 or 4 wheel drive maybe???

 

I havent updated this thread in awhile and just recently started working on the 85 again. Temperture is dropping and I want to be able to drive into the shop instead of pushing it in. I removed the orginal harness and am so glad I did. There were places on the harness I couldnt see that had been butchered up. It would of been an electricl nightmare to get solved and working.

Long story made short, is I found a 88 Runner that wasnt butchered up and since the 88s are a one year only thing, I swapped the entire harness from the 88 runner to the pickup. From the cab forward it is all 88.

I am going to have to make a short harness that connect the tail lights from the truck to the runners wiring harness. Runner lights are inside the truck. A pick up wiring runs along the frame. Not many wires to splice so I feel it is going to work and not be a hack job.

Here is some of the things I have done so far. I have the engine bay all completed and am starting to get most of the dash back in.
Here are the 3 types of injectors. The white one is 85- 87, the 88 looks just like the 89 and up but the fool proof tabs are different. I dont remember which one is which but 85-87 is 1.5-3.0 Ohms, 88 is 1.0-2.5 Ohms, and the 89 and newer are 13.4-14.2 Ohms. Do a resistance check to see which ones you have.


The main harness connects to the fuse box and runs under the inner fenders. I was able to access them by removing inner fenders.


Here it is in its worse shape. Most is put back together, but changing a heater core is about the same from my experience.

 

Holy interior teardown!!

 

Anything new going on with this thing Terry?

 

Hello kornhuskerwizard.. It is actually put back together now. I got this down to a science. I have actually helped a friend convert his from turbo as he got tired of the turbo having problems to a carb set up. We changed all his wiring out and did it right. No hacking up the EFI harness.

Hello 85sr45excab...I have it back togther and I did put the bed back on. But I get to tear the dash out again as I have got me an 85 harness. I have swapped harnesses several times before and I am not having high hopes of that fixing it either. I am going to give it another try and then after that I have some help available that I am going to have to start looking at. I have always been able to dig myself out of predictaments and this is going to be a first.

I have tested everything and most I install on my 86 as 85and 86 are nearly the same and they work on it. I am stumped. I am going to install the 85 harness and give it another try. Tomorrow is supposed to be a nice day so might get out and give it another shot.

 

I have still been tinkering with the 85. I have had the dash in and out several times. I now have back apart again and am going to stick in the orginal harness back in and a friend of mine is going to see if he can see why it wont get fire to the coil. Him and I have fixed difficult problems together when we do get the chance to work together. I did get tired of seeing the rusty cross bar so gave it a good cleaning and painted. I still chugging along on this build. Once I get it running, I have plans of getting it in 2015 calendar. That is my goal to have it done by next September.

One part looking better.

 

terry a thought hit me when you switch the key on the coil gets power could the ignition switch electrical part have failed?

 

Hello cyberhorn...It has been so long since I have looked at this truck, I am basically going to have to start over and get a reminder of where I was at. That is a good possibility but seems like I did try another steering column. If I can just get it running, this project will take off. This was a long, cold brutal winter. I am getting ready to hit this project again. Some how, some way, I need to get this truck going. It is a real pain in the rear not having a truck.

 

The weather is getting better by the day here and I am slowly getting moving on things again. I am working on an 86 extra cab and used my 85 for guidance on the 86. I did get a few issues fixed on the 85. First the Distributor has a common problem of having a leak where it sits at the head. I get a O-ring from my local parts store to replace the old one. Normally it is so old that has shrunk and is so brittle that it is going to break on you when you try to remove it to replace it.

What I do is get the parts store one and put it on the distributor. I will have a rounded edge and be to large to fit inside the head. With some careful work on the bench grinder, I can get it to have a flat edge on the o-ring and still be large enough to seal off any of the oil leaks.


Another thing I will never do again is pull the drain plug out of the fuel tank. Even with the tank cleaned it still tore up the threads when I pulled the drain plug. I got it tapped it out and sealed it with Red Kote and should have it fixed now.

 

they should have been used more years ago then huh terry yeah i havent even considered messing with my drain plug

 

The drain plug is one thing I have always been afraid to touch on these tanks. I do not think I ever will in risk of having it leak afterwards.

 

Guess ive gotten lucky on the drainplug!!

 

Hello cyberhorn... I finally learned my lesson on the drain plug. I knew it could be problems and I thought it being cleaned would solve that problem. Wish I would of never considered it now.lol

Hello Gizzler00... It isnt worth it as you can get it dry or empty without pulling the plug. It would be easier but not worth the trouble. One reason I do try mention in all of my threads is how bad these tanks do get. They get nasty!!!!

Hello kornhuskerwizard... I would like to know the secret. I have had problems with 3 tanks that I pulled the plug out of. I feel I got this one fixed now but never again.

 

I had to go to Springfield today and that is where a salvage is that has several parts. I really think I have a chance of getting my 85 running. It will be part 87 as I found a perfect extra cab harness out of an 87. Only problem is with the stereo wiring as it was cut off. I tried to find a couple of more stereo connections and none were to be found.

I have an 87 injector harness that needs some repairs but not to concerned with that. I will need to replace the connectors for the injectors and one is missing but I will get some from connectorfast.com I am just hoping my 85 fuel and tail light harness connects to the 87 main harness. If not, guess I will be making the trip to the yard again. It started raining and I wanted to get some more parts but was soaking wet when I left. I feel like there is a good chance of getting it moving under its own power just as soon as I can get some time off from work and get the fuel tank in it. Getting excited again about the possibility of hearing it run.

Nearly perfect Main Harness.


Threee connectors need fixed and think it will be a great Injector harness. 87 harness has the EV1 style connectors but has the test points in the box on the passenger side.

 

I ordered 4 new connectors for my harness. http://connectorsfast.net/shop/index...&product_id=50 Mine are not in that great of a shape and I have used these in the past.

I also know the crimps to the injectors can be problematic so I removed the crimps and soldered them together. In the harness there is a 5 different crimps. Two of them are to large for me to soldered but I did find a brown wire the connects to two other brown wires and removed that crimp as well and soldered it together. Trying to make this harness a solid as possible.

 

Good job on the harness, Terry.
My truck sputtered after it left shop from engine rebuild. Shop's tech immediately found broken / corroded crimps in there.

Sorry I have not responded to your PM. so swamped this week.

 

congratulations on the promotion terry site staff

 

YEEY! Second that!