85 Extra Cab Saved from Crusher
#222
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
Thanks 85sr5excab..Each year truck has something different. The 85s dont have the Starter Relay on the passenger fender and apparently dont have the Clutch Start Switch.
Does your distributor have the black and white wires that connect to the coil/igniter? If so I would like a picture of the wires coming off of the distributor into the green plug. Mine is missing the connector and I need to see which way I need to connect it to the coil. Some wires are Red and White. My coil is Black and White.
Does your distributor have the black and white wires that connect to the coil/igniter? If so I would like a picture of the wires coming off of the distributor into the green plug. Mine is missing the connector and I need to see which way I need to connect it to the coil. Some wires are Red and White. My coil is Black and White.
#224
Terry here is a pic of the wires on the distributor. They are red and white.
And here's a pic of the coil. The red and white wire from the distributor are right in the center of that cluster. I hope this helps buddy
The wires from right to left are green, grey, blue, red, white, tan, yellow and black. I guess it's technically from the front of the truck to the back, not left to right but I think u get what I mean lol.
And here's a pic of the coil. The red and white wire from the distributor are right in the center of that cluster. I hope this helps buddy
The wires from right to left are green, grey, blue, red, white, tan, yellow and black. I guess it's technically from the front of the truck to the back, not left to right but I think u get what I mean lol.
Last edited by 85sr5excab; 09-12-2013 at 12:38 PM.
#226
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
Thanks 85sr5excab...That is how mine are coming off of the Igniter. The dizzy is black and white wires. I am guessing my dizzy came from a newer model. Everything else is the same except for the wiring color. This isnt the first time I have seen Toyota have the exact same part and change one wire color.
I tried taking the distributor cap off of my 86 and seeing where each wire goes to and then I was just going to wire my dizzy the same way. Toyota is good about some small changes. I appreciate the picture. Thanks. I am going to have to dig a little deeper into my 86 distributor and see each wire. I will eventually get this truck running, once I get over this hump, I should be ok.
I tried taking the distributor cap off of my 86 and seeing where each wire goes to and then I was just going to wire my dizzy the same way. Toyota is good about some small changes. I appreciate the picture. Thanks. I am going to have to dig a little deeper into my 86 distributor and see each wire. I will eventually get this truck running, once I get over this hump, I should be ok.
#228
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
I found out that my coil is bad. It will pass the secondary resistance checks but fails the primary resistance checks. I had to look into the FSM on how to test the Igniter. I wanted to post the information up, but Photobucket isnt uploading right now. Test for it isnt in Haynes but is in the FSM.
It should be .5-.7
I have not been able to find out how to test in Haynes or on the net. This is out of my FSM. Electric test is easy. The screw is the ground to the igniter with the bracket. With the key on you just look for 12 volts from the ground screw to each of the coils post. Where you hook up the battery it says you have 5 seconds. I think I will pass doing that test. It would take me 5 seconds just to see what is on the meter. My eyes are not as fast as they used to be.
Igniter ground screw.
It should be .5-.7
I have not been able to find out how to test in Haynes or on the net. This is out of my FSM. Electric test is easy. The screw is the ground to the igniter with the bracket. With the key on you just look for 12 volts from the ground screw to each of the coils post. Where you hook up the battery it says you have 5 seconds. I think I will pass doing that test. It would take me 5 seconds just to see what is on the meter. My eyes are not as fast as they used to be.
Igniter ground screw.
Last edited by Terrys87; 08-10-2014 at 08:44 AM.
#231
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
Hello cyberhorn...I know the coil is good. I put it on my 86 and it ran just fine, hmmmm? Got me to scratching my head.
Hello kornhuskerwizard....The factory ones are/mostly red from what I have seen. I actually have 3 more and they all have the red top and are made by Denso and have green writing on them. The ones in my other trucks have the red tops as well. I have seen parts stores with black tops.
Hello kornhuskerwizard....The factory ones are/mostly red from what I have seen. I actually have 3 more and they all have the red top and are made by Denso and have green writing on them. The ones in my other trucks have the red tops as well. I have seen parts stores with black tops.
#232
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
Alot of troubleshooting and still not sure what is going on. I bought the correct distributor out of a salvage of an 86 camper with only 50,000 miles. I installed the coil an igniter on to my 86 and it ran great. I compared all reading to what was on my 86 and the voltage and resistance test were all the same or very close.
I am not getting any spark to the plugs. I had a set of Denso plugs that only that only had 1000 miles on them so thought I would just use those. To get Denso plugs is quite a drive from here so will do that when I go to town. I still dont see that being the reason for the plugs to fire. I tried to pull a plug and ground it and see if there was a spark. No sparky!!!
I did get a slight buzz off of the coil wire when holding it in my hand. I would think that it would of hurt getting a shock from it. ( Wasnt trying to get shocked, but me working with electricity, I will find a way).
Parts I picked up from the salvage. Distributor, coil/igniter and a washer pump from a 2000 Sienna. I will show how I fix my washer bottles later on this week. I would normally spazz out if I seen parts on a good paint job, but this one is getting repainted.
I use dielectic grease on all of my connections for a slightly better chance of running. It didnt work today. The contacts can get some corrosion on them and I am hoping this reduces that. Also since I like to keep my motors clean, it helps cut down the risk of water damage.
I have used washer from newer Siennas and they are under the hood. The 2000 Siennas washer pump is behind the bumper. The fill part is under the hood. Usually I just cut off the connectors and splice them together. The pumps have always been the same, just the connectors are different.
I am not getting any spark to the plugs. I had a set of Denso plugs that only that only had 1000 miles on them so thought I would just use those. To get Denso plugs is quite a drive from here so will do that when I go to town. I still dont see that being the reason for the plugs to fire. I tried to pull a plug and ground it and see if there was a spark. No sparky!!!
I did get a slight buzz off of the coil wire when holding it in my hand. I would think that it would of hurt getting a shock from it. ( Wasnt trying to get shocked, but me working with electricity, I will find a way).
Parts I picked up from the salvage. Distributor, coil/igniter and a washer pump from a 2000 Sienna. I will show how I fix my washer bottles later on this week. I would normally spazz out if I seen parts on a good paint job, but this one is getting repainted.
I use dielectic grease on all of my connections for a slightly better chance of running. It didnt work today. The contacts can get some corrosion on them and I am hoping this reduces that. Also since I like to keep my motors clean, it helps cut down the risk of water damage.
I have used washer from newer Siennas and they are under the hood. The 2000 Siennas washer pump is behind the bumper. The fill part is under the hood. Usually I just cut off the connectors and splice them together. The pumps have always been the same, just the connectors are different.
Last edited by Terrys87; 09-20-2013 at 05:48 AM.
#233
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
.Troubleshooting I have done for no spark.
1. I installed the coil/igniter on my 86 and my 86 Runner fired right up.
2. All voltage and resistance checks passed and were the same as my 86 Runner coil.
3. I used the distributor cap, rotor and plug wires off of my 86 Runner which only have 4000 miles on them and are all Denso parts.
What I am going to Check/Do.
1. Check EFI Main Relay Haynes page 4-9.. Should be 60-80 Ohms...............I have 71 Ohms
2. Get new Denso Plugs. .................................................. ......................Installed new ones this morning.
3. Check Fuses .................................................. .....................................Checked again.
4. Check pickup coil.......Haynes page 5-4, 9.7a 140-180 Ohms....................I have 160 Ohms.
FSM says to Check
Plugs............................................. .................................................. .........I installed new Densos this morning.
Ignition Coil.............................................. .................................................P assed test and works on my 86.
Ingiter........................................... .................................................. ........Passed test ane works on my 86.
Distributor....................................... .................................................. .......Passed test.
Ignition wiring disconnected or broken............................................ ..............Will start looking up the wiring diagrams.
1. I installed the coil/igniter on my 86 and my 86 Runner fired right up.
2. All voltage and resistance checks passed and were the same as my 86 Runner coil.
3. I used the distributor cap, rotor and plug wires off of my 86 Runner which only have 4000 miles on them and are all Denso parts.
What I am going to Check/Do.
1. Check EFI Main Relay Haynes page 4-9.. Should be 60-80 Ohms...............I have 71 Ohms
2. Get new Denso Plugs. .................................................. ......................Installed new ones this morning.
3. Check Fuses .................................................. .....................................Checked again.
4. Check pickup coil.......Haynes page 5-4, 9.7a 140-180 Ohms....................I have 160 Ohms.
FSM says to Check
Plugs............................................. .................................................. .........I installed new Densos this morning.
Ignition Coil.............................................. .................................................P assed test and works on my 86.
Ingiter........................................... .................................................. ........Passed test ane works on my 86.
Distributor....................................... .................................................. .......Passed test.
Ignition wiring disconnected or broken............................................ ..............Will start looking up the wiring diagrams.
Last edited by Terrys87; 09-25-2013 at 06:05 PM.
#236
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
Wow Mightymouse... It looks like they did a great job. Masking and how they got everything covered shows that they put alot of effort into getting everythign covered well. Your truck looks great. Enjoyed meetingyou. I am to be in St.Louis the 5th and 6th of October and will give you a call when I get up that way.
Hello kornhuskerwizard... I am not having much luck right now. I am looking up things to check and see what I can find. I looked thru my Non Firing Injector notes as some of the steps cross over. I am going to dig thru the FSM,Haynes and alot of studying on the net to see what I can find. I did get a little shock from the coil wire and it was just a little buzz. I have been shocked by spark plugs and that HURT, so I am thinking I am not getting enough electric to the plugs.
When my injectors werent firing, they would pass resistance checks but still didnt have enough electric to fire so I am wondering if something like that is a possibility. To be honest, I feel alot more comfortable swapping out whole harnesses instead of troubleshooting electric. I will eventually get it and when I do, I will have learned something from it. These tough problems teach you so much.
It is frustrating as I really wanted to have it running as it makes things progress so much faster and easier to work on, but having been down this road before, it is how I have learned on these trucks on past builds. Everytime I start to think I know something about these trucks, I get knocked down a notch or two.lol I havent checked any relays so it could be simple as that.
Hello kornhuskerwizard... I am not having much luck right now. I am looking up things to check and see what I can find. I looked thru my Non Firing Injector notes as some of the steps cross over. I am going to dig thru the FSM,Haynes and alot of studying on the net to see what I can find. I did get a little shock from the coil wire and it was just a little buzz. I have been shocked by spark plugs and that HURT, so I am thinking I am not getting enough electric to the plugs.
When my injectors werent firing, they would pass resistance checks but still didnt have enough electric to fire so I am wondering if something like that is a possibility. To be honest, I feel alot more comfortable swapping out whole harnesses instead of troubleshooting electric. I will eventually get it and when I do, I will have learned something from it. These tough problems teach you so much.
It is frustrating as I really wanted to have it running as it makes things progress so much faster and easier to work on, but having been down this road before, it is how I have learned on these trucks on past builds. Everytime I start to think I know something about these trucks, I get knocked down a notch or two.lol I havent checked any relays so it could be simple as that.
#237
Wow Mightymouse... It looks like they did a great job. Masking and how they got everything covered shows that they put alot of effort into getting everythign covered well. Your truck looks great. Enjoyed meetingyou. I am to be in St.Louis the 5th and 6th of October and will give you a call when I get up that way.
Hello kornhuskerwizard... I am not having much luck right now. I am looking up things to check and see what I can find. I looked thru my Non Firing Injector notes as some of the steps cross over. I am going to dig thru the FSM,Haynes and alot of studying on the net to see what I can find. I did get a little shock from the coil wire and it was just a little buzz. I have been shocked by spark plugs and that HURT, so I am thinking I am not getting enough electric to the plugs.
When my injectors werent firing, they would pass resistance checks but still didnt have enough electric to fire so I am wondering if something like that is a possibility. To be honest, I feel alot more comfortable swapping out whole harnesses instead of troubleshooting electric. I will eventually get it and when I do, I will have learned something from it. These tough problems teach you so much.
It is frustrating as I really wanted to have it running as it makes things progress so much faster and easier to work on, but having been down this road before, it is how I have learned on these trucks on past builds. Everytime I start to think I know something about these trucks, I get knocked down a notch or two.lol I havent checked any relays so it could be simple as that.
Hello kornhuskerwizard... I am not having much luck right now. I am looking up things to check and see what I can find. I looked thru my Non Firing Injector notes as some of the steps cross over. I am going to dig thru the FSM,Haynes and alot of studying on the net to see what I can find. I did get a little shock from the coil wire and it was just a little buzz. I have been shocked by spark plugs and that HURT, so I am thinking I am not getting enough electric to the plugs.
When my injectors werent firing, they would pass resistance checks but still didnt have enough electric to fire so I am wondering if something like that is a possibility. To be honest, I feel alot more comfortable swapping out whole harnesses instead of troubleshooting electric. I will eventually get it and when I do, I will have learned something from it. These tough problems teach you so much.
It is frustrating as I really wanted to have it running as it makes things progress so much faster and easier to work on, but having been down this road before, it is how I have learned on these trucks on past builds. Everytime I start to think I know something about these trucks, I get knocked down a notch or two.lol I havent checked any relays so it could be simple as that.
#239
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
You would think I would learn my lesson fixing up junk trucks. My flatbed I had to learn on doing frame swaps. My 86Runner, I learned how to replace wiring harnesses and how to troubleshoot injectors. This truck is going to make me learn the ignition side.
I have a great understanding now of the Ingiter Circuit, but still not getting anywhere. I am thinking it is a broken wire somewhere. I am going to start at the battery and work my way to the Ignition side. I just dont think I am getting full power to it. I will see if the 30 amp Fusible Link is getting power ( wherever the FL is?). I know where the one that comes off of the fuse box on the passenger side is, (another thing I learned when working on a bomber). I now know how to test the Pickup Coil in the distributor and the Igniter.
Here is what I have done so far and some other small things. Just keeping track of where I have been.
Troubleshooting I have done for no spark.
1. I installed the coil/igniter on my 86 and my 86 Runner fired right up.
2. All voltage and resistance checks passed and were the same as my 86 Runner coil.
3. I used the distributor cap, rotor and plug wires off of my 86 Runner which only have 4000 miles on them and are all Denso parts.
What I am going to Check/Do.
1. Check EFI Main Relay Haynes page 4-9.. Should be 60-80 Ohms...............I have 71 Ohms
2. Get new Denso Plugs. .................................................. ......................Installed new ones this morning.
3. Check Fuses .................................................. .....................................Checked again.
4. Check pickup coil.......Haynes page 5-4, 9.7a 140-180 Ohms....................I have 160 Ohms.
FSM says to Check
Plugs............................................. ......................................I installed new Densos this morning.
Ignition Coil.............................................. ............................Passed test and works on my 86.
Ingiter........................................... ......................................Passed test ane works on my 86.
Distributor....................................... .....................................Passed test.
Ignition wiring disconnected or broken.......................................Will start looking up the wiring diagrams.
I have a great understanding now of the Ingiter Circuit, but still not getting anywhere. I am thinking it is a broken wire somewhere. I am going to start at the battery and work my way to the Ignition side. I just dont think I am getting full power to it. I will see if the 30 amp Fusible Link is getting power ( wherever the FL is?). I know where the one that comes off of the fuse box on the passenger side is, (another thing I learned when working on a bomber). I now know how to test the Pickup Coil in the distributor and the Igniter.
Here is what I have done so far and some other small things. Just keeping track of where I have been.
Troubleshooting I have done for no spark.
1. I installed the coil/igniter on my 86 and my 86 Runner fired right up.
2. All voltage and resistance checks passed and were the same as my 86 Runner coil.
3. I used the distributor cap, rotor and plug wires off of my 86 Runner which only have 4000 miles on them and are all Denso parts.
What I am going to Check/Do.
1. Check EFI Main Relay Haynes page 4-9.. Should be 60-80 Ohms...............I have 71 Ohms
2. Get new Denso Plugs. .................................................. ......................Installed new ones this morning.
3. Check Fuses .................................................. .....................................Checked again.
4. Check pickup coil.......Haynes page 5-4, 9.7a 140-180 Ohms....................I have 160 Ohms.
FSM says to Check
Plugs............................................. ......................................I installed new Densos this morning.
Ignition Coil.............................................. ............................Passed test and works on my 86.
Ingiter........................................... ......................................Passed test ane works on my 86.
Distributor....................................... .....................................Passed test.
Ignition wiring disconnected or broken.......................................Will start looking up the wiring diagrams.
Last edited by Terrys87; 09-22-2013 at 05:10 AM.
#240
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
Just adding more info to keep track of where I am at. Had some suggestions thru PMs. Thanks. One is that the fuse contacts can get crusty. Mine were so I gave them a good cleaning with contact cleaner. That helped find a problem that I will post below.
Here is your Pickup Coil. $127 at Toyota.
You should have between 140-180 Ohms on the Pickup Coil. I want to have a picture for others if the question comes up. Mine was 158. I just noticed that I had my meter set to 2000, I should of set it to the 200 mark. Last time I checked it, I had the meter set to 200 and my reading was 160. It is still good, but some information for someone who may not understand a multimeter. If you know your range of Ohms, set it to the closest setting that you are expecting. If I was at 201 Ohms, I should then use the 2000 setting. (Where the dot is at is 2000. The 20k equals 20,000. k means 1000, 200k means 200,000)
While cleaning fuse contacts, I used a wire brush and got the main ground under the cab cleaned and also got the ground wire contact back to looking like brass again. It was dirty. I feel for good measure, get the ground connection down to bare metal on the cab post.
While cleaning the contacts in the fuse box, I found this. Yeah!!! Something else I get to go fix. The wire going to it is red with white stripe, and the wire they had into the fuse holder is solid red. I may have possibly found my problem. I checked another harness I have and it is a different red pattern. The other harness is looking awful tempting to just swap out. It is an 86 or 87 harness, I havent looked at the connections just yet. I will give this an honest shot before swapping harnesses. Swapping harness doesnt bother me, repairing PO poor wire jobs do.
Small steps, but I used contact cleaner on the 30amp and 40amp fuses. According to the diagram, it eventually supplys power to the Ignition Circuit. The Postive on the Coil is electrically the same as IG2, which I have 2.8 Volts. AM 1 Switch controls the starter and it cranks great, So I am going to focus on AM2 power supply.
With Key On, I got 2.8 volts at the Positive Terminal of the Coil. Seems low to me. May explain why the shock I got awhile back was so mild. My dizzy is turning. I am getting power to the other side of the button that contacts the rotor under the cap. I just dont think the voltge is high enough to over come the resistance in the wire to fire the plug. (Possibly the POs wonderful hack job I discovered earlier).
Here is your Pickup Coil. $127 at Toyota.
You should have between 140-180 Ohms on the Pickup Coil. I want to have a picture for others if the question comes up. Mine was 158. I just noticed that I had my meter set to 2000, I should of set it to the 200 mark. Last time I checked it, I had the meter set to 200 and my reading was 160. It is still good, but some information for someone who may not understand a multimeter. If you know your range of Ohms, set it to the closest setting that you are expecting. If I was at 201 Ohms, I should then use the 2000 setting. (Where the dot is at is 2000. The 20k equals 20,000. k means 1000, 200k means 200,000)
While cleaning fuse contacts, I used a wire brush and got the main ground under the cab cleaned and also got the ground wire contact back to looking like brass again. It was dirty. I feel for good measure, get the ground connection down to bare metal on the cab post.
While cleaning the contacts in the fuse box, I found this. Yeah!!! Something else I get to go fix. The wire going to it is red with white stripe, and the wire they had into the fuse holder is solid red. I may have possibly found my problem. I checked another harness I have and it is a different red pattern. The other harness is looking awful tempting to just swap out. It is an 86 or 87 harness, I havent looked at the connections just yet. I will give this an honest shot before swapping harnesses. Swapping harness doesnt bother me, repairing PO poor wire jobs do.
Small steps, but I used contact cleaner on the 30amp and 40amp fuses. According to the diagram, it eventually supplys power to the Ignition Circuit. The Postive on the Coil is electrically the same as IG2, which I have 2.8 Volts. AM 1 Switch controls the starter and it cranks great, So I am going to focus on AM2 power supply.
With Key On, I got 2.8 volts at the Positive Terminal of the Coil. Seems low to me. May explain why the shock I got awhile back was so mild. My dizzy is turning. I am getting power to the other side of the button that contacts the rotor under the cap. I just dont think the voltge is high enough to over come the resistance in the wire to fire the plug. (Possibly the POs wonderful hack job I discovered earlier).
Last edited by Terrys87; 08-10-2014 at 08:42 AM.