yotantn's 1981 Pickup Build-Up Thread
07-09-2013, 02:12 PM
#161
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Thread Starter
7/9/13 Update; brakes/tank/dash
Seem to be in a holding pattern now.
#1-Brakes; Me and mechanic buddy Ross, got the old one off, was clogged up pretty bad he said. New master cylinder odered, new with reservoir. Should be here tomorrow, but will be a few days before I can get to it. I'll have to Google/Youtube on that one. Can't be that hard.
I know guys that I'm not sure can change their underwear that change master cylinders.
#2-Dash...sort of on hold because I gotta get my head wrapped around just straight taking the dash apart and painting the metal parts before putting the new pad on. Either taking it out and painting it or, just taking the plastic bezels off put a drop cloth down good and then taping the windshield and a few spots and painting in the truck.
There's really not, I don't think...that much metal on the dash to have to paint anyways. Up next to the windshield and then the glovebox and a little metal trim.
#3-Fuel tank..Ok, here's the booger. Here's a shot of inside the fill and it's clear that despite all my cleaning, I'm getting nowhere.
So, I took it to 3 places and all 3 said get a new tank. Couldn't find one at NAPA, or all the other places including online..the places I looked at least.
*Gmack said this would happen*
So...I found out about this place: http://www.gas-tank.com/
A local, very reputable, mechanic said this is where he sends his antique tanks that are old like this and not made anymore and has had great results.
I call him and he's a cool fellar. Says it'll be probably around $325.00 plus shipping from here to PA and back. Ends up sandblasted inside and out, repaired of any pinholes or leaks, coated inside and out and guaranteed not to rust or leak. So, it looks like that's the best option for me. This tank is not leaking, but really, if I'm going to do this thing, I want to do the right thing and not botch something up more. That carb is rebuilt and clean and ready for clean fuel again and I don't think I'll ever get that thing cleaned out and done right. EPA shut down all the local vats that they used to boil or soak or whatever this rust out of. I should be packaging up the ole gal and mailing it in the next few days. A week or so turn around he said. It's interesting, check out that site.
I do have some questions:
-Any good vids or advice on changing the master cylinder. It don't look hard at all.
-On this sending unit, although it worked, I dunno how, it's all gummed up and rusty too. You guys have a good resource for replacing those? and the float? And the filler tube/basket? I can Google, but I thought maybe someone had found somewhere good and reasonable.
-The big filler tube. It's intact..works ok. But really, I'd just as soon replace it as we have the tank down. Is that tube and it's bend for this truck body, specific to this model? How do you guys replace yours?
I guess that's where I stand now. ONe forward..two back.
Help appreciated.
Enjoying the journey.
#1-Brakes; Me and mechanic buddy Ross, got the old one off, was clogged up pretty bad he said. New master cylinder odered, new with reservoir. Should be here tomorrow, but will be a few days before I can get to it. I'll have to Google/Youtube on that one. Can't be that hard.
I know guys that I'm not sure can change their underwear that change master cylinders.
#2-Dash...sort of on hold because I gotta get my head wrapped around just straight taking the dash apart and painting the metal parts before putting the new pad on. Either taking it out and painting it or, just taking the plastic bezels off put a drop cloth down good and then taping the windshield and a few spots and painting in the truck.
There's really not, I don't think...that much metal on the dash to have to paint anyways. Up next to the windshield and then the glovebox and a little metal trim.
#3-Fuel tank..Ok, here's the booger. Here's a shot of inside the fill and it's clear that despite all my cleaning, I'm getting nowhere.
So, I took it to 3 places and all 3 said get a new tank. Couldn't find one at NAPA, or all the other places including online..the places I looked at least.
*Gmack said this would happen*
So...I found out about this place: http://www.gas-tank.com/
A local, very reputable, mechanic said this is where he sends his antique tanks that are old like this and not made anymore and has had great results.
I call him and he's a cool fellar. Says it'll be probably around $325.00 plus shipping from here to PA and back. Ends up sandblasted inside and out, repaired of any pinholes or leaks, coated inside and out and guaranteed not to rust or leak. So, it looks like that's the best option for me. This tank is not leaking, but really, if I'm going to do this thing, I want to do the right thing and not botch something up more. That carb is rebuilt and clean and ready for clean fuel again and I don't think I'll ever get that thing cleaned out and done right. EPA shut down all the local vats that they used to boil or soak or whatever this rust out of. I should be packaging up the ole gal and mailing it in the next few days. A week or so turn around he said. It's interesting, check out that site.
I do have some questions:
-Any good vids or advice on changing the master cylinder. It don't look hard at all.
-On this sending unit, although it worked, I dunno how, it's all gummed up and rusty too. You guys have a good resource for replacing those? and the float? And the filler tube/basket? I can Google, but I thought maybe someone had found somewhere good and reasonable.
-The big filler tube. It's intact..works ok. But really, I'd just as soon replace it as we have the tank down. Is that tube and it's bend for this truck body, specific to this model? How do you guys replace yours?
I guess that's where I stand now. ONe forward..two back.
Help appreciated.
Enjoying the journey.
Last edited by yotantn; 07-09-2013 at 02:18 PM.
07-10-2013, 12:14 PM
#162
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I used a after market GM sending unit on one of my old yotas.. I had to change the mounting flange and reverse the float...It took a little fine tuning but it worked pretty good... At least I knew when I was getting low on fuel...
That sounds like a deal (although not cheep) on the tank.
I will PM you my number..I'm up all night and can (try) to answer some of your questions.
That sounds like a deal (although not cheep) on the tank.
I will PM you my number..I'm up all night and can (try) to answer some of your questions.
07-11-2013, 11:22 PM
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Seem to be in a holding pattern now.
#1-Brakes; Me and mechanic buddy Ross, got the old one off, was clogged up pretty bad he said. New master cylinder odered, new with reservoir. Should be here tomorrow, but will be a few days before I can get to it. I'll have to Google/Youtube on that one. Can't be that hard.
I know guys that I'm not sure can change their underwear that change master cylinders.
#1-Brakes; Me and mechanic buddy Ross, got the old one off, was clogged up pretty bad he said. New master cylinder odered, new with reservoir. Should be here tomorrow, but will be a few days before I can get to it. I'll have to Google/Youtube on that one. Can't be that hard.
I know guys that I'm not sure can change their underwear that change master cylinders.
Bench-bleeding makes the process easier to install, see if you can rent a hand-held vacuum pump, or even buy one for later use, it's a worthwhile tool.
Fill the reservoir on a work bench, and use the vac pump to draw fluid through it. It will help keep off any significant and hard to fight air bubbles.
Additionally, a vac pump makes bleeding the brakes and clutch a breeze.
After all that, it's a bolt-in swap, just be sure to put a thick drop cloth on the fender and engine under the M/C.
#2-Dash...sort of on hold because I gotta get my head wrapped around just straight taking the dash apart and painting the metal parts before putting the new pad on. Either taking it out and painting it or, just taking the plastic bezels off put a drop cloth down good and then taping the windshield and a few spots and painting in the truck.
There's really not, I don't think...that much metal on the dash to have to paint anyways. Up next to the windshield and then the glovebox and a little metal trim.
There's really not, I don't think...that much metal on the dash to have to paint anyways. Up next to the windshield and then the glovebox and a little metal trim.
The other bolts are two pair by the upper hinges of the doors - easy to get at with a 1/4" ratchet with an extension.
Another pair above the heater, and a final pair holding the steering column in place. (there may be a pair underneath the column, too. It's been a while).
It should't take you more than 45 minutes to get apart.
Best of luck!
Last edited by RobotMoose; 07-11-2013 at 11:23 PM.
07-17-2013, 09:46 AM
#164
Registered User
Thread Starter
It's fairly straight forward, you have the right idea.
Bench-bleeding makes the process easier to install, see if you can rent a hand-held vacuum pump, or even buy one for later use, it's a worthwhile tool.
Fill the reservoir on a work bench, and use the vac pump to draw fluid through it. It will help keep off any significant and hard to fight air bubbles.
Additionally, a vac pump makes bleeding the brakes and clutch a breeze.
After all that, it's a bolt-in swap, just be sure to put a thick drop cloth on the fender and engine under the M/C.
Thanks, my mechanic buddy is out of town and squashed my thoughts of doing this myself. I'm sure I could do it, he's my 'go to' and i don't want to mess that up. He'll be back next week and ought to be able to get that going. He's a good brake man and if I do mess it up, he'd be all sideways.
The dash is easier than it seems, trust me. I used a U-joint, and extension, an M10 deep socket and a thumb-ratchet to loosen up the bolts along the windscreen. It took some patience, but it was done before I realized it.
The other bolts are two pair by the upper hinges of the doors - easy to get at with a 1/4" ratchet with an extension.
Another pair above the heater, and a final pair holding the steering column in place. (there may be a pair underneath the column, too. It's been a while).
It should't take you more than 45 minutes to get apart.
Well, as in anything I do, it's slow and sure. I've gotten a lot of the bolts out. have to get a uJoint and get those windshield bolts out. It's been interesting taking all of that out. I had forgotten hot wiring my rollbar lights from the fusebox by wrapping a wire around a fuse. LOL. I got the bezels out. At this point, I just lack disconnecting that dash cluster and getting those top bolts out.
I gotta get my eyes on what it is I need to unplug on the dash cluster before I can get my hands on them. I don't know what's back there.
Best of luck!
Bench-bleeding makes the process easier to install, see if you can rent a hand-held vacuum pump, or even buy one for later use, it's a worthwhile tool.
Fill the reservoir on a work bench, and use the vac pump to draw fluid through it. It will help keep off any significant and hard to fight air bubbles.
Additionally, a vac pump makes bleeding the brakes and clutch a breeze.
After all that, it's a bolt-in swap, just be sure to put a thick drop cloth on the fender and engine under the M/C.
Thanks, my mechanic buddy is out of town and squashed my thoughts of doing this myself. I'm sure I could do it, he's my 'go to' and i don't want to mess that up. He'll be back next week and ought to be able to get that going. He's a good brake man and if I do mess it up, he'd be all sideways.
The dash is easier than it seems, trust me. I used a U-joint, and extension, an M10 deep socket and a thumb-ratchet to loosen up the bolts along the windscreen. It took some patience, but it was done before I realized it.
The other bolts are two pair by the upper hinges of the doors - easy to get at with a 1/4" ratchet with an extension.
Another pair above the heater, and a final pair holding the steering column in place. (there may be a pair underneath the column, too. It's been a while).
It should't take you more than 45 minutes to get apart.
Well, as in anything I do, it's slow and sure. I've gotten a lot of the bolts out. have to get a uJoint and get those windshield bolts out. It's been interesting taking all of that out. I had forgotten hot wiring my rollbar lights from the fusebox by wrapping a wire around a fuse. LOL. I got the bezels out. At this point, I just lack disconnecting that dash cluster and getting those top bolts out.
I gotta get my eyes on what it is I need to unplug on the dash cluster before I can get my hands on them. I don't know what's back there.
Best of luck!
Got the sending unit cleaned up and it still works. I connected it to the truck and moved the arm and it registered. Had some issue with a goober at a local auto place that changed the clip out (remember I broke a wire when the tank dropped, that sending unit is on a very short leash). He boogered the clip. And I need a new one. But, I'm GENTLY trying to clean up that sending unit. the arm is clean but I'm hesitant to do too much to it. But I don't want to dump rust back in a clean tank. Gonna do a little sanding/air compresseor blowing it out.
Got the fill line cleaned up good as new. The basket on the end cleaned up really good too. But I may order a new one just because.
I can't find a filler hose anywhere. And this one looks fine. I think I'll just clean it up and replace that rusted clamp on it.
I have decided to go back with chrome. Chrome rollbar, lights, mirrors, and rims. It used to have a black one. Something different now.
I'm taking that bezel by an audio shop sometime this week and get thoughts on a new radio/system there. Just thinking ahead and looking at possibilities. I would like to replace that bezel if you see one at a good price though.
Not sure i'll have her where I want her by Sept 2nd but that's ok.
Ok, just thought I'd update ya'll
Thanks for all the feedback and help. Especially Gmack. I'm really enjoying this restoration.
Mark
07-20-2013, 01:57 PM
#165
Registered User
Thread Starter
WHAT HAVE I DONE TO MY TRUCK????
OH well, it's out now! I'm taking it to a painter next week and have it repainted to the color inside the glovebox.
That's the original color as best I remember, sort of a powderblue/gray look. The outside is really faded and when I laid that brand new dash pad on it, well...that looked stupid.
And, I couldn't get spray paint to match right, so I had no choice but to take it off.
And, really folks, unless you're experienced at this, that's no easy chore at all.
Advice...Lots a bags, a sharpie to label them and pictures before you break it down. Someone here advised me on that and they're right.
And, after you drop the steering column, you still can't reach the speedo. But, you have to do an um....reach around LOL, through the dash to the right, with the bezel off, you can reach it and it pops off. It's REALLY tight, NO slack at all. Then there are two white connectors and some green ones I labelled driver and passenger.
I had dirtdobbers nests in there, LOTS wires from my 32 years of adding/taking out radio/tape deck/equalizer/switches for the bumper and rollbar lights, just all kinda goings on in there I need to clean up anyways.
I gotta make a decision on changing out the light bulbs. Hey..they work right now, or they did at least. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
And give thought to anything else I MIGHT need to change out while that's off..heater core? I dunno.
FYI< I ain't putting those side defroster vents back in. Dash pad looks too good without em.
OH well, it's out now! I'm taking it to a painter next week and have it repainted to the color inside the glovebox.
That's the original color as best I remember, sort of a powderblue/gray look. The outside is really faded and when I laid that brand new dash pad on it, well...that looked stupid.
And, I couldn't get spray paint to match right, so I had no choice but to take it off.
And, really folks, unless you're experienced at this, that's no easy chore at all.
Advice...Lots a bags, a sharpie to label them and pictures before you break it down. Someone here advised me on that and they're right.
And, after you drop the steering column, you still can't reach the speedo. But, you have to do an um....reach around LOL, through the dash to the right, with the bezel off, you can reach it and it pops off. It's REALLY tight, NO slack at all. Then there are two white connectors and some green ones I labelled driver and passenger.
I had dirtdobbers nests in there, LOTS wires from my 32 years of adding/taking out radio/tape deck/equalizer/switches for the bumper and rollbar lights, just all kinda goings on in there I need to clean up anyways.
I gotta make a decision on changing out the light bulbs. Hey..they work right now, or they did at least. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
And give thought to anything else I MIGHT need to change out while that's off..heater core? I dunno.
FYI< I ain't putting those side defroster vents back in. Dash pad looks too good without em.
07-20-2013, 07:31 PM
#166
I would advise you to change the bulbs while you have the dash out. Just plug the cluster and the other connections for the ignition to test. Putting in LEDs in is a great option and there are threads on how and what to expect when finished. Just my $.02
I think you made the right choice in pulling the dash out and getting it painted the correct color to match. A little extra work but you will have period correct interior that will look awesome
I think you made the right choice in pulling the dash out and getting it painted the correct color to match. A little extra work but you will have period correct interior that will look awesome
Last edited by Lons81; 07-20-2013 at 07:36 PM.
07-21-2013, 04:25 AM
#167
Registered User
Thread Starter
I would advise you to change the bulbs while you have the dash out. Just plug the cluster and the other connections for the ignition to test. Putting in LEDs in is a great option and there are threads on how and what to expect when finished. Just my $.02
I think you made the right choice in pulling the dash out and getting it painted the correct color to match. A little extra work but you will have period correct interior that will look awesome
I think you made the right choice in pulling the dash out and getting it painted the correct color to match. A little extra work but you will have period correct interior that will look awesome
07-22-2013, 07:14 PM
#168
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks
07-23-2013, 06:40 PM
#170
Registered User
Thread Starter
Here read this post, I think 13 bucks a light is too expensive.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...s-swap-262525/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...s-swap-262525/
Can you link me to what it is you got that you've been happy with?
Thanks.
07-26-2013, 04:53 AM
#171
Registered User
Thread Starter
7/26/13 update
Tank:
Tank's back in. Moyer did a great job as you can see on it. Turn around time was just around a week from Tn to PA and back Fedex. The coating is really tough, little like Rhinoliner. The inside is clean as a whistle as far as I can see. It's coated in some brown Rhinoliner looking stuff.
Got it back on. Had to have a local rubber company make a couple of new gaskets, get some new 4 mm screws. Clean up the FSU good and rewire that where the wire broke when it dropped from the truck. (NO slack at all)
But still, it doesn't run.
Getting plenty of good clean gas to the carb now. Can't figure out why it's not choking. If you put your hand over the carb it'll run.
Adjusted the screws in and out and nothing. SOmething about that left side of the butterfly isn't moving like it should. I had it out and rebuilt a couple of months ago. Funny thing is when we first put it back on, cranked right up and ran like a charm, even idled down. It was only when we tried to turn it over again that we found it wouldn't run. I guess something could have gotten past the fuel filter from that nasty tank and into the carb. I dunno. Before we take it back off, I'm going to talk with the carb rebuilder. He's renown as the best in the area.
Brakes:
Master on, bled..found leak in line running to right rear over the tank. Gotta replace that whole line now.
Dash:
Now on a good note. The company I took it to called and said to come by and see something. They compounded and buffed part of it and it looks new. So, that's what we're gonna do. They're gonna buff out all of the oxidation rather than paint it. Well, at first and we'll see then. But it looked really good yesterday.
So, I'm really disappointed I can't get at least ONE of these things finished. I'll get there eventually though.
Nobody said it was going to be easy...or cheap.
Mark
Tank's back in. Moyer did a great job as you can see on it. Turn around time was just around a week from Tn to PA and back Fedex. The coating is really tough, little like Rhinoliner. The inside is clean as a whistle as far as I can see. It's coated in some brown Rhinoliner looking stuff.
Got it back on. Had to have a local rubber company make a couple of new gaskets, get some new 4 mm screws. Clean up the FSU good and rewire that where the wire broke when it dropped from the truck. (NO slack at all)
But still, it doesn't run.
Getting plenty of good clean gas to the carb now. Can't figure out why it's not choking. If you put your hand over the carb it'll run.
Adjusted the screws in and out and nothing. SOmething about that left side of the butterfly isn't moving like it should. I had it out and rebuilt a couple of months ago. Funny thing is when we first put it back on, cranked right up and ran like a charm, even idled down. It was only when we tried to turn it over again that we found it wouldn't run. I guess something could have gotten past the fuel filter from that nasty tank and into the carb. I dunno. Before we take it back off, I'm going to talk with the carb rebuilder. He's renown as the best in the area.
Brakes:
Master on, bled..found leak in line running to right rear over the tank. Gotta replace that whole line now.
Dash:
Now on a good note. The company I took it to called and said to come by and see something. They compounded and buffed part of it and it looks new. So, that's what we're gonna do. They're gonna buff out all of the oxidation rather than paint it. Well, at first and we'll see then. But it looked really good yesterday.
So, I'm really disappointed I can't get at least ONE of these things finished. I'll get there eventually though.
Nobody said it was going to be easy...or cheap.
Mark
07-26-2013, 05:33 AM
#172
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Your fuel tank's looking pretty!
Nice before and after contrast, there.
Looking pretty clean where your dash was, I always thought those spots were kind of a dust magnet. Did you clean up under there at all, or were you just really lucky?
Nice before and after contrast, there.
Looking pretty clean where your dash was, I always thought those spots were kind of a dust magnet. Did you clean up under there at all, or were you just really lucky?
07-26-2013, 06:10 AM
#173
Registered User
Thread Starter
I guess I was just lucky. Truck only has 82K miles on it anyways, so I guess that contributes to that part.
I called the guy who rebuilt the carb and he suspects the solenoid isn't getting power. I may have broke a wire twisting it out when I took the carb off to be rebuilt.
07-30-2013, 07:05 PM
#174
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Thread Starter
7/30/13..updates and calling in reinforcements
I ain't skeered to admit when I'm over my head..and I so am over my head with this carb and brake thing.
Have a buddy with a garage coming to put her on a trailer and take her to his shop and get her going and stopping again. Hold your hand over the carb and it runs fine. It's not choking..BUT IT WORKED GREAT when we first put the fuel pump and rebuilt carb on..., cranked, ran wonderful...until we shut it off. I posted a vid of that, she even idled herself down.
I think she threw a clot.
I think some gunk from the THEN-crusty tank flew past the fuel filter Or was already in a line past the fuel filter..and got in the carb and when we shut her off, that was all she wrote.
Anywho..I'm tired of messing with it. I want it fixed.
And he's gona replace the rusted brake lines and rear shoes.
I just want her running, stopping again.
Now...I got my painted dash back today!!! Looks great. After I get it installed, I'll post pix. I'm still sorting through bags of labelled screws and stuff.
Very happy that I did the dash. Looks great. Hard to remember it being that dark, but we matched it to the inside of the glovebox lid.
At least I got ONE thing done...well, nearly done.
She's gonna be greatness again.
At this point I gotta start shopping for 37-16 tires/rims now.
Need to get some speedo lights too.
And still trying to find a shift knob insert if you know of anywhere.
Have a buddy with a garage coming to put her on a trailer and take her to his shop and get her going and stopping again. Hold your hand over the carb and it runs fine. It's not choking..BUT IT WORKED GREAT when we first put the fuel pump and rebuilt carb on..., cranked, ran wonderful...until we shut it off. I posted a vid of that, she even idled herself down.
I think she threw a clot.
I think some gunk from the THEN-crusty tank flew past the fuel filter Or was already in a line past the fuel filter..and got in the carb and when we shut her off, that was all she wrote.
Anywho..I'm tired of messing with it. I want it fixed.
And he's gona replace the rusted brake lines and rear shoes.
I just want her running, stopping again.
Now...I got my painted dash back today!!! Looks great. After I get it installed, I'll post pix. I'm still sorting through bags of labelled screws and stuff.
Very happy that I did the dash. Looks great. Hard to remember it being that dark, but we matched it to the inside of the glovebox lid.
At least I got ONE thing done...well, nearly done.
She's gonna be greatness again.
At this point I gotta start shopping for 37-16 tires/rims now.
Need to get some speedo lights too.
And still trying to find a shift knob insert if you know of anywhere.
08-10-2013, 08:29 AM
#175
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yup, there she goes!
Hope to have her back running AND stopping in about a week or so.
Brakes reworked front to back. (I already did the left caliper and master)
Fix whatever has bunked up the newly rebuilt carb. ( I think a cornflake outta that old tank flew in the lines PAST the fuel filter and into the clean carb. It ran fine for a few as soon as it turned over and then wouldn't run after. Cranks, won't run).
Fix lights. That shouldn't be such a big deal.
All of these things I could have done, in given time and research. But, I just want my truck back where I can piddle with it and have fun from there. I wanna have fun with it before I'm too old to shift it.
Got a great deal on some used tires, barely used, Firestones to put on.
Looking now for good online deal on white wagon wheel rims like it used to have. Much better lookin on that truck than chrome.
*yes that's a bent front bumper where years ago I accidentally popped the clutch too close to a stack of wood.
Hope to have her back running AND stopping in about a week or so.
Brakes reworked front to back. (I already did the left caliper and master)
Fix whatever has bunked up the newly rebuilt carb. ( I think a cornflake outta that old tank flew in the lines PAST the fuel filter and into the clean carb. It ran fine for a few as soon as it turned over and then wouldn't run after. Cranks, won't run).
Fix lights. That shouldn't be such a big deal.
All of these things I could have done, in given time and research. But, I just want my truck back where I can piddle with it and have fun from there. I wanna have fun with it before I'm too old to shift it.
Got a great deal on some used tires, barely used, Firestones to put on.
Looking now for good online deal on white wagon wheel rims like it used to have. Much better lookin on that truck than chrome.
*yes that's a bent front bumper where years ago I accidentally popped the clutch too close to a stack of wood.
Last edited by yotantn; 08-10-2013 at 08:31 AM.
08-10-2013, 08:43 AM
#177
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Thread Starter
08-10-2013, 09:00 AM
#178
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Thread Starter
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Wheels/Se..._pn=PCW82-5883
Those? Is that my bolt pattern, alls I know is it's 6 lug.
I'd like to have the ones with the red/blue pinstripe inside the rim edge.
Those? Is that my bolt pattern, alls I know is it's 6 lug.
I'd like to have the ones with the red/blue pinstripe inside the rim edge.
08-10-2013, 01:14 PM
#179
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http://www.4wheelparts.com/Wheels/Se..._pn=PCW82-5883
Those? Is that my bolt pattern, alls I know is it's 6 lug.
I'd like to have the ones with the red/blue pinstripe inside the rim edge.
Those? Is that my bolt pattern, alls I know is it's 6 lug.
I'd like to have the ones with the red/blue pinstripe inside the rim edge.
And She will be ok while at the doctors....
08-12-2013, 04:40 AM
#180
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ordered http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crr-3105860
yesterday. Gmack talked me into getting the 8", even though mine might look a little poochy right now, lol.
Gonna put mudders on later.
I have to say Summitracing was really good to help out on the phone and chat for confirming these fit and ordering. Also ordered black centers and nuts.
Free shipping!
All of that, shipped, was less than I could have bought the same rim, probably not a Cragar at that, here locally off the shelf. They're supposed to be here by end of week.
yesterday. Gmack talked me into getting the 8", even though mine might look a little poochy right now, lol.
Gonna put mudders on later.
I have to say Summitracing was really good to help out on the phone and chat for confirming these fit and ordering. Also ordered black centers and nuts.
Free shipping!
All of that, shipped, was less than I could have bought the same rim, probably not a Cragar at that, here locally off the shelf. They're supposed to be here by end of week.
