yotantn's 1981 Pickup Build-Up Thread
07-02-2013, 02:53 AM
#122
Registered User
Thread Starter
I wanted to give you a little idea of what i did putting factory A/c in...While you have the dash open you might as well do it all. Change the heater core, clean the gauge cluster, clean the de-frost plenums ect. I know you want to get things up and running, but this is the second time I restored" the interior and I wasn't going to compromise this time. It was well worth the hard work, I won't have to do it for another 30 years! Plus I got factory A/c, best of luck -t
PS you do have the FSM?
PS you do have the FSM?
Good stuff though. I mean, replacing that heater core for sure. That's what was busted in the mid 80's that caused me to beat the dash to make the heat come on. (made sense then)
Your sprayed dash sure looks good. Got a pic with the pad back on it? I'm going to look into all of that.
Yes, I have a FSM. A female seeking male. It's my 19 year old daughter dating and it drives me crazy.
actually, I don't even know what a FSM is. So, chances are I don't have one.
Just a guess..Factory Service Manual? Flying spaghetti machine?
Last edited by yotantn; 07-02-2013 at 07:25 AM.
07-02-2013, 05:37 AM
#124
Registered User
Thread Starter
I figured flying spaghetti machine would be wrong.
I have that big repair book I bought at the parts store years ago. It's helped a lot.
I'll find that thread and download it. Thanks man.
07-02-2013, 07:17 AM
#125
I love reading your updates, makes me want to work on mine and I think it's great that you kept it all this time, I sure wish I can do the same with mine and rebuild it 30 years from now! As far as droping the tank, it's really not that hard, just look at the tank and what is holding it on the frame, and undo these bolts and fuel lines, a 15-30 mins job. If you want it to be easier, you can remove the bed, I think its 6 bolts to remove and a plug, then you have all the access. Keep it up and don't lose motivation, these things are real easy to work on and you will learn a lot from it!
07-02-2013, 07:56 AM
#126
Registered User
I didn't mean to Hi-jack your thread and start putting my pics on your thread. I just wanted to give you an idea of what can be done while half the dash is already out. That was an extensive project, I'm not good at logging hours or taking photos of my projects, but I'm looking at least 80 hours (plus) on that project. But that included cleaning/ installing all the A/C components and running all the duct work.
Ultimately you must have passion for these projects/ trucks to put that much time and money into it. I've driven these trucks for 20 years (since i was 17) and if it's up to me I'll never drive another truck.
Concentrate on getting the truck running for now, all the other stuff can wait.
Please download the factory service manual (FSM). All other repair manuals are substandard in comparison. You'll gain a lot of confidence studying it.
Ultimately you must have passion for these projects/ trucks to put that much time and money into it. I've driven these trucks for 20 years (since i was 17) and if it's up to me I'll never drive another truck.
Concentrate on getting the truck running for now, all the other stuff can wait.
Please download the factory service manual (FSM). All other repair manuals are substandard in comparison. You'll gain a lot of confidence studying it.
07-02-2013, 08:32 AM
#127
Registered User
Thread Starter
I love reading your updates, makes me want to work on mine and I think it's great that you kept it all this time, I sure wish I can do the same with mine and rebuild it 30 years from now! As far as droping the tank, it's really not that hard, just look at the tank and what is holding it on the frame, and undo these bolts and fuel lines, a 15-30 mins job. If you want it to be easier, you can remove the bed, I think its 6 bolts to remove and a plug, then you have all the access. Keep it up and don't lose motivation, these things are real easy to work on and you will learn a lot from it!
I didn't mean to Hi-jack your thread and start putting my pics on your thread. I just wanted to give you an idea of what can be done while half the dash is already out. That was an extensive project, I'm not good at logging hours or taking photos of my projects, but I'm looking at least 80 hours (plus) on that project. But that included cleaning/ installing all the A/C components and running all the duct work.
Ultimately you must have passion for these projects/ trucks to put that much time and money into it. I've driven these trucks for 20 years (since i was 17) and if it's up to me I'll never drive another truck.
Concentrate on getting the truck running for now, all the other stuff can wait.
Please download the factory service manual (FSM). All other repair manuals are substandard in comparison. You'll gain a lot of confidence studying it.
Dood, I ain't proud. You just come on in here with whatever you want.
I was glad to see your pix. I welcome any and all help.
I have the passion. It's the time and $$ that I run short on. lol. But I'm having fun.
Push come to shove, priorities being running/rolling and stopping..I'm just going to temporarily put that dash pad on until I can devote the time and $$ to getting it all done the way I want. I want to replace the heater core and the A/C. And I want to paint that metal back to the original blue.
Ultimately you must have passion for these projects/ trucks to put that much time and money into it. I've driven these trucks for 20 years (since i was 17) and if it's up to me I'll never drive another truck.
Concentrate on getting the truck running for now, all the other stuff can wait.
Please download the factory service manual (FSM). All other repair manuals are substandard in comparison. You'll gain a lot of confidence studying it.
Dood, I ain't proud. You just come on in here with whatever you want.
I was glad to see your pix. I welcome any and all help.
I have the passion. It's the time and $$ that I run short on. lol. But I'm having fun.
Push come to shove, priorities being running/rolling and stopping..I'm just going to temporarily put that dash pad on until I can devote the time and $$ to getting it all done the way I want. I want to replace the heater core and the A/C. And I want to paint that metal back to the original blue.
Appreciate all the help.
Mark
07-02-2013, 06:46 PM
#128
Registered User
Thread Starter
Got the skid plate off tonight and drained the tank.
(6)12 mm bolts in case that helps anyone reading. And just drop it down.
Just FYI if you're working on the ground, wear clear safety glasses. 32 year old rust and mess falling all in your face.
Hope to get the tank off over the next couple of day. Can't be that complicated. I've sited the bolts. Just take em out and drop it down. I dnlded the FSM today, I think there are instructions in there.
1 thing at a time...
(6)12 mm bolts in case that helps anyone reading. And just drop it down.
Just FYI if you're working on the ground, wear clear safety glasses. 32 year old rust and mess falling all in your face.
Hope to get the tank off over the next couple of day. Can't be that complicated. I've sited the bolts. Just take em out and drop it down. I dnlded the FSM today, I think there are instructions in there.
1 thing at a time...
07-03-2013, 03:46 AM
#130
You haven't dropped that tank yet?? LOL
Let me give you some advice, these trucks are extremely simple so don't over think it. Take some before pictures just in case you can't remember how something goes back together. Ziploc bags and a sharpie can be your best friend-just bag it all up and label it as you take it apart. I have completely rebuilt my motor and totally tore down my truck to the bare frame and I have yet to lose a single part, nut or bolt in the process using this method. I may have a boxes of parts (old not reused parts go in one box, new or yet to be used parts go in another) but It works really well. I also have taken a boat load of pictures throughout the process. Just get in there and get your hands dirty
Let me give you some advice, these trucks are extremely simple so don't over think it. Take some before pictures just in case you can't remember how something goes back together. Ziploc bags and a sharpie can be your best friend-just bag it all up and label it as you take it apart. I have completely rebuilt my motor and totally tore down my truck to the bare frame and I have yet to lose a single part, nut or bolt in the process using this method. I may have a boxes of parts (old not reused parts go in one box, new or yet to be used parts go in another) but It works really well. I also have taken a boat load of pictures throughout the process. Just get in there and get your hands dirty
07-03-2013, 03:52 AM
#131
Registered User
Thread Starter
You obviously missed when I said I don't get in a big hurry about anything. Lol.
I already have labelled ziplock bags everywhere.
I'm old school of measure twice..
Cut once.
Besides I've had her 32 years...
No hurries man.
So... Anything else to disconnect before I drop it?
Thanks for the advice.
I already have labelled ziplock bags everywhere.
I'm old school of measure twice..
Cut once.
Besides I've had her 32 years...
No hurries man.
So... Anything else to disconnect before I drop it?
Thanks for the advice.
07-03-2013, 04:36 AM
#132
Sorry, just trying to give you some confidence.
All you should have to disconnect is the fuel sending unit and 3 fuel lines (one is the return from the fuel pump, one goes to the fuel pump and one is the return from the charcoal cannister). I would recommend labeling all the fuel lines so you put them back in the right spot. The one that truly matters is the fuel line to the fuel pump since it pulls from the bottom of the tank. The other two return lines don't really matter. I'm pretty sure that's it
All you should have to disconnect is the fuel sending unit and 3 fuel lines (one is the return from the fuel pump, one goes to the fuel pump and one is the return from the charcoal cannister). I would recommend labeling all the fuel lines so you put them back in the right spot. The one that truly matters is the fuel line to the fuel pump since it pulls from the bottom of the tank. The other two return lines don't really matter. I'm pretty sure that's it
07-03-2013, 04:39 AM
#133
Registered User
Thread Starter
Reason I'm asking is the FSM that I downloaded here says:
-disconnect connector from fuel sending unit
-disconnect three hoses from fuel pipes and plug the outlet hose to prevent gas from draining.
-disconnect two filler pipes from fuel tank
and THEN
-remove fuel tank.
whatheck? I don't see any of that that I can get to with my hands before I drop it. Maybe I ain't holding my mouth right.
Me>>trying to follow directions when I don't think this FSM is applicable to my 81 tank.
-disconnect connector from fuel sending unit
-disconnect three hoses from fuel pipes and plug the outlet hose to prevent gas from draining.
-disconnect two filler pipes from fuel tank
and THEN
-remove fuel tank.
whatheck? I don't see any of that that I can get to with my hands before I drop it. Maybe I ain't holding my mouth right.
Me>>trying to follow directions when I don't think this FSM is applicable to my 81 tank.
07-03-2013, 04:41 AM
#134
Registered User
Thread Starter
Sorry, just trying to give you some confidence.
All you should have to disconnect is the fuel sending unit and 3 fuel lines (one is the return from the fuel pump, one goes to the fuel pump and one is the return from the charcoal cannister). I would recommend labeling all the fuel lines so you put them back in the right spot. The one that truly matters is the fuel line to the fuel pump since it pulls from the bottom of the tank. The other two return lines don't really matter. I'm pretty sure that's it
All you should have to disconnect is the fuel sending unit and 3 fuel lines (one is the return from the fuel pump, one goes to the fuel pump and one is the return from the charcoal cannister). I would recommend labeling all the fuel lines so you put them back in the right spot. The one that truly matters is the fuel line to the fuel pump since it pulls from the bottom of the tank. The other two return lines don't really matter. I'm pretty sure that's it
I do enjoy working on it and getting my hands dirty. I just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing before I break something off that I might need.
Heck I was happy to drop that skid plate. lol
I posted right before your post about that sending unit. I gotta see where that is. I'll find it though.
Thanks man.
Last edited by yotantn; 07-03-2013 at 04:43 AM.
07-03-2013, 05:51 AM
#135
oops, forgot the filler hoses... My bad! One is the big 2" hose and the other is a 5/8" breather hose that run up to your filler door. Both are typically stiff and in the perfect spot to be a pain in the ass to remove!
BTW, while you're at it, I would take out the fuel line assembly that bolts onto the tank (should be phillips 5-6 screws holding it on). There is an in-tank filter at the of the gas sump (Part #77023-12050). I would recommend replacing that. It's just a screen filter, but it plays a big role in keeping any rust and contaminants in the tank from constantly clogging your fuel filters.
BTW, while you're at it, I would take out the fuel line assembly that bolts onto the tank (should be phillips 5-6 screws holding it on). There is an in-tank filter at the of the gas sump (Part #77023-12050). I would recommend replacing that. It's just a screen filter, but it plays a big role in keeping any rust and contaminants in the tank from constantly clogging your fuel filters.
07-03-2013, 06:16 AM
#136
Remove the drain plug, drain gas out to make it lighter. Put a block and floor jack under the tank to hold it up, until you are ready to drop it and remove the sending unit connector and 3 small lines. Helped this 'ole man LOL
Last edited by Lons81; 07-03-2013 at 06:19 AM.
07-03-2013, 09:49 AM
#137
Registered User
Thread Starter
oops, forgot the filler hoses... My bad! One is the big 2" hose and the other is a 5/8" breather hose that run up to your filler door. Both are typically stiff and in the perfect spot to be a pain in the ass to remove!
BTW, while you're at it, I would take out the fuel line assembly that bolts onto the tank (should be phillips 5-6 screws holding it on). There is an in-tank filter at the of the gas sump (Part #77023-12050). I would recommend replacing that. It's just a screen filter, but it plays a big role in keeping any rust and contaminants in the tank from constantly clogging your fuel filters.
BTW, while you're at it, I would take out the fuel line assembly that bolts onto the tank (should be phillips 5-6 screws holding it on). There is an in-tank filter at the of the gas sump (Part #77023-12050). I would recommend replacing that. It's just a screen filter, but it plays a big role in keeping any rust and contaminants in the tank from constantly clogging your fuel filters.
Unscrew the whole shebang loose from inside the filler door, keeps from having to unclamp the filler and vent hoses in a small area. They are stiff and hard to get loose from the pipes, Just sayin'
Remove the drain plug, drain gas out to make it lighter. Put a block and floor jack under the tank to hold it up, until you are ready to drop it and remove the sending unit connector and 3 small lines. Helped this 'ole man LOL
Remove the drain plug, drain gas out to make it lighter. Put a block and floor jack under the tank to hold it up, until you are ready to drop it and remove the sending unit connector and 3 small lines. Helped this 'ole man LOL
Since I've never done this, it'll be new to me and i'm sure I'll learn as I go some. I plan on dropping it either tomorrow or this weekend.
Been getting some advice on this from some locals who echoed your advice about the jack underneath. Also he said to first back the bolts down a little to give some arm room to above it to disconnect some of those things while it rests on something. Then once all that's loose, finish the bolts out.
He said to just drop it, put a couple of gallons of gas in it, two things of carb cleaner, slosh it around. let it set. slosh it around. do this for a few hours. Then pour all that out. Rinse well with a water hose and let air dry on a hot day. He said not to spray anything back in it, no paint or anything. He said it'd just get old and start to peel off later, causing more trouble again.
I called a radiator shop and they said they don't clean em anymore, OSHA said stop.
But, another mechanic said they did but that scenario I said above is exactly what they did. Charged $75 bucks to do that.
So , one thing at a time.
This maybe the longest build up thread ever by the time it ends, if ever. But, I'm hoping that someone else can learn from it as well as myself.
I used to own and run a camping forum, and that's what forums are for.
07-04-2013, 08:15 AM
#139
Registered User
Thread Starter
5 bolts out of tank, one stuck, rounded off. dangit.
I couldn't see or get my hands on top of the tank to disconnect anything, so I just decided to drain it drop it and see what happens.
Have a jack under one end of tank.
Any thoughts on backing out that one rounded off bolt would be helpful. I posted for advice on the pre 83 forum. HERE
That's a basic question, but I'm a basic man I guess. LOL. All of the others just came right on out.
I couldn't see or get my hands on top of the tank to disconnect anything, so I just decided to drain it drop it and see what happens.
Have a jack under one end of tank.
Any thoughts on backing out that one rounded off bolt would be helpful. I posted for advice on the pre 83 forum. HERE
That's a basic question, but I'm a basic man I guess. LOL. All of the others just came right on out.
07-04-2013, 08:44 AM
#140
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5 bolts out of tank, one stuck, rounded off. dangit.
I couldn't see or get my hands on top of the tank to disconnect anything, so I just decided to drain it drop it and see what happens.
Have a jack under one end of tank.
Any thoughts on backing out that one rounded off bolt would be helpful. I posted for advice on the pre 83 forum. HERE
That's a basic question, but I'm a basic man I guess. LOL. All of the others just came right on out.
I couldn't see or get my hands on top of the tank to disconnect anything, so I just decided to drain it drop it and see what happens.
Have a jack under one end of tank.
Any thoughts on backing out that one rounded off bolt would be helpful. I posted for advice on the pre 83 forum. HERE
That's a basic question, but I'm a basic man I guess. LOL. All of the others just came right on out.
