Will do! The decals were perfect. I only purchased the ones for the tailgate and they were spot on. I would certainly recommend if you need decals.

 

New progress pictures

 

Currently desmog/offenhauser and weber

 

Close up of bumper rhino lining...both front/rear bumpers, tub, and bed.

 

How hard was the seat install?

 

Not too bad, I had to drill new holes in the tub, add some backing plates, new bolts/washers, etc. Took me the better part of an evening to knock it out. Honestly it took more time going to the store and getting the right hardware.

 

Isn't that always the case lol. Thanks for the info!

 

Got her running last night! The Webber straight out of the box actually wasn't too bad. It held idle and ran without stumbling. It did die occasionally when coming to a stop and it idled a little high at times; however, all in all without touching anything it ran quite well. I am planning on getting it dialed in this evening.

I decided at the last minute to go with kawazx636's suggestion and use the Holley fuel regulator and mount it to the intake instead of using the Webber regulator. I completely agree his way looks much cleaner and less hose routing. That reg should be in from LCE by Friday along with a set of Doug Thorley Tri-Y headers (Tim at DOA's suggestion). I plan on putting that all in over the weekend and rerouting some hoses so it looks a little cleaner. Does anyone know off hand what size fuel line would be best? I originally bought 5/16; however, that's a tad too big so I need something like a 7mm. Thoughts? I'm currently using the 5/16 but I'm not sure if that's right. Any help would be great.

I drove it about 5 miles last night and despite it not being dialed in I certainly noticed the pickup and increased HP from the Webber and Desmog. As far as the Desmog, I used LCE's video and kawazx636's Desmog thread as reference. At first, I thought it was going to be difficult; however, I followed it all step by step and at the end she fired right up. I was amazed at the amount of smog equipment was removed. the engine bay certainly looks a lot leaner now.

One question I still is have is why to remove the water temperature sensors from the intake? I assume they were removed in order to put in a new gauge. I like keeping the old one functional so I think I am going to go get a new set and put them back so the OEM temperature gauge will still work.

I plan to post up pictures once I get everything cleaned up and the headers installed.

 

Headers on and Cat off!

Still need to attach the rest of the exhaust, do some hose rerouting, install new wires, plugs, distributor cap, wire loom, and tune up the Webber.

 

VERY NICE!! Now we just need to get that engine compartment cleaned up a bit so the inside looks as good as the outside! Here's some inspiration for you:

 

Thanks man!! I'm working on it...ran into some technical difficulties

 

So... I just completed my Desmog using the LCE kit and instruction thread here. That all seemed to go quite smoothly. Additionally, I installed a 32/36 Weber, Weber fuel regulator, Offy intake, Thorley Tri-Y headers, and removed the CAT. Again, this took some time but went fairly well. Now after all that I am getting blue smoke out the tail pipe when I never saw that before this work. I called LCE and they seem to think that it may be a bad valve and that the CAT was covering up the issue. They suggested starting with getting a pressure test on the cylinders and then a leak down test where compression has been lost. I was hoping that it was something more simple like tuning, timing, or a bad PCV. Thoughts?
Since the install I haven't been able to get the engine dialed in. Should you adjust the timing before tuning the carb? I haven't tried adjusting the timing yet. I pulled the plugs today and plugs 1, 3, and 4 were all tarred up. I have a new set of plugs, wires, and distributor cap but have not installed them yet.
I was hoping you all could talk me through trouble shooting this issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

 

Start by getting the timing as close as possible with the carb set as is. Make sure you're pushing 2.5-3.5 PSI on the fuel gauge (get an actual gauge to determine the pressure - don't depend on a "setting" on a regulator). Then lean up the fuel a little and go back to fine tune the timing. Make sure you use Weber's best lean idle adjustment method - it is a proven procedure when you do not have a A/F meter to really fine tune. Excess fuel can produce a black exhaust with a blue tint sometimes so that may help you out a bit.

If it blows more blue smoke during start up then you likely have worn valve seals. If it blows more blue smoke when shifting then you like have a blockage in you PCV system and/or worn valve seals. If it constantly blows blow smoke then you likely have worn rings and are looking at a rebuild soon. Desmogging would have no impact on or cause oil consumption, but LCE is correct in stating that the cat was masking a problem that was already there. Do as they suggest - compression test then leak down test to see were you are. Standard compression should be around 171 PSI and the low threshold is 142 PSI per the FSM.

If you do need to rebuild, you can buy yourself some time and use Rotella 15W-40 diesel engine oil. It has a higher viscosity and more additive that will help seal you up for a little will. Before I restored my 83, I was consuming 1.5-2 quarts of oil between refuelings. I switched over to the Rotella and got it doing to about 0.5 quarts between refuelings. In my case, my engine wear was fairly significant so the consumption reduction was considerable. I can personally vouch that the Rotella temporary fix will definitely work without causing additional harm to your engine until you get to rebuilding it.

 

Thanks Dave!! I really appreciate the info! I currently have a weber fuel regulator mounted on my fender wall with the in-line LCE pressure gauge. I purchased the Holey like you did; however, my manifold does not have the hole on the bottom right where you mounted yours. So I'm stumped there as to how to go about mounting it.

Regarding what you suggested, the weber fuel pressure reg is currently dialed in at 2.5 according the to LCE gauge.

By "weber's best lean idle adjustment method", are you referring to what the instructions suggested? "setting the idle mixture screw to just touching the throttle; then 1 and 1/2 turns in. The turn the Idle mixture screw turn till it seats; then back out 2 full turns and micro adjust at 1/4 turns"? I've tried this multiple times and I cant seem to get it right. I have not played with the timing, this will be my first time attempting to set the timing. Is there any particular timing light/instrument that you would recommend? I went to AutoZone and saw a timing light for about $40...I didn't buy it yet because I was unsure as to what to get or how to go about setting the timing.

Any chance you recommend anyone in our area (Arlington, VA/DC/MD) that can do a rebuild?

Another idea that I have been considering is going ahead and purchasing an engine from Tim at DOA. I spoke to him at length awhile back and he was a great help. That road looks like it will be about $5600 (Engine $3750+$400 shipping; Tranny $1000; Flywheel/Clutch $500) which is pretty pricey but then again...everything would be new.

 

Just mount it where ever you have space - it doesn't have to be anywhere in particular. I just mounted the FPR where I did because it was clean looking.

That is the weber best lean idle adjustment I am talking about. But dial it the timing close then try the carb adjustment again (from the beginning). Do you have a FSM? If not, I have a PDF copy that I can shoot over to you.

I'm not sure of any engine builders in your area, but if you have a reputable machinist in your area, you can have them do the machine work and bring all the parts down here. I could have it assembled in a day. My machinist retired and I haven't found a new one that I can trust yet. As long as the block and head are good, there really isn't any reason why you should buy an engine. Just have a machinist figure out what bore you need on your cylinders and order the appropriate parts from Engnbldr.com

 

SOOO....I check the compression in all the cylinders this evening:
#1: 100 (PSI)
#2: 105
#3: 105
#4: 90
I realize this is drastically low and most likely my issue (I am still in denial). I looked up the recommended pressure in the FSM and it stated that compression pressure should be 171 (PSI) and minimum 128 (PSI) and the diff between cylinders is 14 (PSI).
Plugs 1,3,4 were pretty gummed up again.

I still have not checked the timing yet...I did purchase a light tonight .

QUESTION?
Could the timing being off affect the opening in the bottom end and allow oil seepage and the low pressure? My next door neighbor seemed to think so. Again, I must say it wasnt smoking before the latest round of peripheral engine upgrades. Which as I understand, none should have an effect oil coming into the cylinder.

Today I received my "tune up kit"( distributor cap, rotar, plugs, wires, and wire loom), I also got my new header gasket, PCV breather, and LCE weber spiral adapter plate. whoohoo, not really-Im bummed.

My game plan: Press on...I need to fix a couple hoses, run some wires, install the Holley fuel pressure reg (if I can find a good spot to mount it), install all of the above, and then set the timing. I unfortunately believe that this is all in vain since the pressure is low and "most likely" my issue.

If after all this I still cant get it to run right then the head will come off. And...my first valve job will commence. More to come....

 

Great progress, and very nice looking 1st gen. Just wanted to give my 2cents on your running issues and desmog. I've Desomged more of these motors than I can count, and from looks of it you haven't missed anything, or screwed anything up to cause running issues. Your compression figures do not sound correct, motor would be hard to start and have very little power with those numbers. It is important to have the gas pedal depressed fully when checking compression, and preferably have all spark plugs removed when checking to facilitate fast turn over of the motor (motor should be cold).

Your blue smoke can often be misdiagnosed as rich running condition, or unburnt fuel. This added "smoke" your seeing is most likely a direct result of your Weber being misadjusted, especially if no smoke present before swap. I find most 22r weber setups to like 1.5 turns out from seated on the fuel mixture screw, provided your jetting is close to correct. Idle seems best set around 800-900 RPM 90% of the time, anything more you'll cause dieseling when motor is turned off. Just a side note when seating your mixture screw, use very light preasure. When the screw is seated, forcing it anymore will cause damage to the carb.

A note on the fuel pressure regulator, I've never used one. Many of them are poor quality and tend to cause more issues than they solve. The factory pump produces too little preasure to facilitate one, and most mechanical pumps have a built in return line helping any over pressurizing.

My next suggestion is the timing. With your engine warmed up and idle speed set, check and reset if necessary. Any change in the timing will have a direct affect on the idle speed, so an idle adjustment may be needed again after checking/setting timing. When I initially read about your running issues I thought your firing order may have been wrong. I inspected your wires and the firing order is correct, so you can rule that possibility out when playing with your ignition timing.

I own an 82 Toyota and currently building It (build thread "82 money pit"). The trucks almost identical to yours. Weber 32/36 / desmog / no cat / header / etc...I'm 1.5 turns out on the mixture screw, idle set to 850 RPM, No Fuel Pressure regulator, no rich running (no smoke, except a little on start up which is normal for a carbureted motor) For what its worth, I have two Toyota trucks and an FJ40 all running webers with same settings and no fuel pressure regulators. Sounds like your putting a lot of thought into the regulator, and I would bet that's not causing any of your rough running conditions.

Another note is to start driving the truck. Letting a carbureted motor idle for extended periods of time (20 mins or more) while you fiddle with the carb can simulate rich running and smoke. The motor can start to load up, you need to clear the carbon and unburnt fuel out. Trying to diagnose a motor over the forum can be hard, so I may be off. Just trying to give you some pointers and a starting/reference point. Let us know if you find anything else out on the compression figures, they seem way off.

P.S. your ignition timing will not have any correlation to smoke output as your neighbor suggested. Ignition timing does not affect the "opening in the bottom end allowing oil seepage". I'm not even sure what that could mean or have any relevance to any motor regarding smoke output and or oil "seepage".

 

J. Yota, thank you so much for the info. I set the carb exactly how you said. I tried setting the timing; however, I still cant get it dialed in.

Good news: Smoking stopped (not sure if it was the wires, plugs, and distributor cap/rotar or adjusting the timing)
Bad news: No, none, zero, nilch, power. Its bogging down and hesitating.
I do not believe the timing is set right...I felt like I tried every spot on that thing and none seemed right.
I backed down the fuel pressure reg to 2 psi.

Cant seem to catch a break...

 

Sorry to hear your issues still persist. These 22r's are fairly simple motors to dial in, provided the motor in healthy and you have no major vacuum leaks. Again, its hard to diagnose issues over the forum, but I'll give you a few ideas. Your no power/bogging is most likely one of two problems, or a combination of both.

First issues being lack of fuel / fuel delivery issue. Try bypassing that fuel regulator all together, see what improvement that makes (easiest/quickest thing to rule out first). Now look at your fuel filter, did you install a new one when swapping to the weber? Is it clean or dirty? You should have a clear filter in the engine bay so you can quickly see if fuel is pumping, and how clean the filter element is. If the filter checks out, lets move to the choke system. I'm guessing electric, and it should be wired to a (ignition hot). Does the choke flapper open completely when warmed up, partially open, or stay near closed? If all of these areas check out, then we may need to go inside the carb.

Second would be your ignition timing. At any point during the de-smog did you remove the distributor (not the cap, but the entire assembly) ? If not, what are you showing for timing at idle or at least to what degree are you attempting to set it to?

How did the truck run before the de-smog process? Decent power, enough to cruise at hwy. speeds. etc? Any excessive oil consumption ? Have you checked for Vac. leaks? I like to use brake cleaner when spraying around any potential leak areas, as it will cause the engine to bog if any leak is detected.

 

good looking truck, subbed!

good luck with your engine troubles, they can be a real PITA!