82YOTA14's '82 Toyota Longbed Project
#123
Just got some parts for the truck today nothing big but I did get two that should make the truck look a little cleaner. As of right now my rear bumper has the license plate drilled into it on the driver side, I personally think it looks a little tacky. But one of the main reasons I don't like it is because the license plate gets destroyed when I'm off roading. Here is a picture of how it is currently mounted.
To fix this problem, I have done a little research on different ideas. Here is what I have come up with. I'm going to mount the license plate to a license plate bracket that will mount into the receiver hitch. The holes that the license plate originally went into will be welded up and then I will grind them to make them flat with the bumper, the bumper is getting powder coated again so I'm not worried about ruining that. Once done it should make the bumper look a lot cleaner. Here's a picture of the bracket, yes it's upside down and that is how it will be mounted because if it's the other way it will hang to low.
To finish it off I have purchased a pair of led lights that are made to be license plate lights when you don't have a spot to mount them. Basically just lights connected to the top of the bolts.
They will be wired into the old license plate lights. The best part is that everything will be removable. The new led lights will be wired on connectors so that I will be able to remove the whole license plate setup within seconds without having to worry about removing the lights or just have them hanging off the bumper where they could be ripped off.
To fix this problem, I have done a little research on different ideas. Here is what I have come up with. I'm going to mount the license plate to a license plate bracket that will mount into the receiver hitch. The holes that the license plate originally went into will be welded up and then I will grind them to make them flat with the bumper, the bumper is getting powder coated again so I'm not worried about ruining that. Once done it should make the bumper look a lot cleaner. Here's a picture of the bracket, yes it's upside down and that is how it will be mounted because if it's the other way it will hang to low.
To finish it off I have purchased a pair of led lights that are made to be license plate lights when you don't have a spot to mount them. Basically just lights connected to the top of the bolts.
They will be wired into the old license plate lights. The best part is that everything will be removable. The new led lights will be wired on connectors so that I will be able to remove the whole license plate setup within seconds without having to worry about removing the lights or just have them hanging off the bumper where they could be ripped off.
Last edited by 82YOTA14; 05-28-2015 at 03:53 PM.
#126
I am replacing the 22r tank for a 22re tank so that I will be able to get rid of the fuel pump that is currently on the truck. I cleaned the tank and skid plate up, so now ready for paint.
#129
I got the Toyota into the garage to start the tear down. Also got the new toolbox in for the bed this week. Did some test fitting with the new tire carrier in the bed. Liking the look of it a lot.
#130
Slowly getting the truck apart in an organized manner so that I can place everything out so that when it goes back together everything goes back on the truck in the right order and I'm not forgetting parts. Got almost everything out from under the truck and engine bay to be able to take the cab off the truck. Going to get a lot more done tomorrow and hopefully get the cab off the frame and get it to bodywork and paint next weekend!
#131
I was able to get the rear axle out a couple days ago. So now all that is left before the cab comes off is to get the front axle out so that I can drop it down. Plan on lifting the cab over the motor. Also just picked up the frame from sandblasting along with the front and rear bumpers that I had repowder coated and the spare tire carrier.
#134
Didn't get as much done as I had planned on. I unfortunately had to work all weekend and didn't get a lot of time to tear it apart. I did however get the front axle and leaf springs out with what time I had. And painted the new brake calipers. Hoping to get some more done during the week
Last edited by 82YOTA14; 09-28-2015 at 06:11 PM.
#135
Got most of the stuff that will be under the truck painted with the base coat of por 15. I still have to clean up the front axle and give it a base coat and also the frame, which I started to paint. Extremely happy with how everything is coming out so far. Can't wait to see it when it starts to go back together.
#138
I'm not sure of what your preference is, but I used POR-15's Chassis Coat in Satin Black. I like the frame to "Disappear" when you are looking at the truck so I didn't want to go gloss. Plus eventually the gloss dulls away and looks satin anyway so I figured it was a win-win for me. I can't speak for other POR-15 products, but I have been HIGHLY satisfied with the POR-15 rust preventative base coat topped with the satin black chassis coat.
Also, obviously you are outside of your topcoating window so make sure you give that base coat a good scuffing. When I painted my frame, I sprayed the Chassis Coat while the base coat was still tacky, but had to scuff my axles before the Chassis Coat because I had let it cure already. Both methods yielded great results so far. POR-15 has since come out with the "Tie-Coat Primer" that you can use to promote adhesion if your base has already been cured. Since POR-15 is a single part coating, is very highly dependent on a good mechanical bond, thus it adheres best to a sandblasted or etched surface, so you want to make sure that you maintain that good mechanical bond at every step or it will eventually flake off. The only way to get a chemical bond between coatings is to apply the topcoat while the base is still tacky. Just some thoughts for you since the stuff ain't cheap.
Also, obviously you are outside of your topcoating window so make sure you give that base coat a good scuffing. When I painted my frame, I sprayed the Chassis Coat while the base coat was still tacky, but had to scuff my axles before the Chassis Coat because I had let it cure already. Both methods yielded great results so far. POR-15 has since come out with the "Tie-Coat Primer" that you can use to promote adhesion if your base has already been cured. Since POR-15 is a single part coating, is very highly dependent on a good mechanical bond, thus it adheres best to a sandblasted or etched surface, so you want to make sure that you maintain that good mechanical bond at every step or it will eventually flake off. The only way to get a chemical bond between coatings is to apply the topcoat while the base is still tacky. Just some thoughts for you since the stuff ain't cheap.
#139
I'm not sure of what your preference is, but I used POR-15's Chassis Coat in Satin Black. I like the frame to "Disappear" when you are looking at the truck so I didn't want to go gloss. Plus eventually the gloss dulls away and looks satin anyway so I figured it was a win-win for me. I can't speak for other POR-15 products, but I have been HIGHLY satisfied with the POR-15 rust preventative base coat topped with the satin black chassis coat.
Also, obviously you are outside of your topcoating window so make sure you give that base coat a good scuffing. When I painted my frame, I sprayed the Chassis Coat while the base coat was still tacky, but had to scuff my axles before the Chassis Coat because I had let it cure already. Both methods yielded great results so far. POR-15 has since come out with the "Tie-Coat Primer" that you can use to promote adhesion if your base has already been cured. Since POR-15 is a single part coating, is very highly dependent on a good mechanical bond, thus it adheres best to a sandblasted or etched surface, so you want to make sure that you maintain that good mechanical bond at every step or it will eventually flake off. The only way to get a chemical bond between coatings is to apply the topcoat while the base is still tacky. Just some thoughts for you since the stuff ain't cheap.
Also, obviously you are outside of your topcoating window so make sure you give that base coat a good scuffing. When I painted my frame, I sprayed the Chassis Coat while the base coat was still tacky, but had to scuff my axles before the Chassis Coat because I had let it cure already. Both methods yielded great results so far. POR-15 has since come out with the "Tie-Coat Primer" that you can use to promote adhesion if your base has already been cured. Since POR-15 is a single part coating, is very highly dependent on a good mechanical bond, thus it adheres best to a sandblasted or etched surface, so you want to make sure that you maintain that good mechanical bond at every step or it will eventually flake off. The only way to get a chemical bond between coatings is to apply the topcoat while the base is still tacky. Just some thoughts for you since the stuff ain't cheap.