I started with a running supra, so getting the harness was not difficult...I have a re-cored 22re rad (told them I needed to cool a 350 so they put in a triple core) that is now sitting in front of the rad support and just behind the grill. Took the upper two mounts for the bumper off, removed the rad support (to be fabbed in later) and gutted the front of the hood to make room for the top of the rad. Will use hood pins later. As far as wiring, I think I have everything mapped out afaik except for the "small black/orange" wire in B1...it seems that is referenced in the instructions later on and used to run the efi relay in an optional configuration; I don't see the need to overcomplicate the wiring so I don't wish to go that way. I assume then that the wire should simply go to an key-on source? Will be trying a v6 PS hose to see if it is close enough to fit the 7m pump in the stock location, then use the trans cooler in the rad to bring the return from the box to the reservoir which I'll relocate to the other side of the engine compartment.

Thanks

 

Both Black/Orange wires need to go to a switched ignition source. All I did was strip a small amount of insulation off the large B/O wire and wrap/solder the thin B/O wire around that then take the large B/O wire to switched ignition

One other thing I did with the wiring was snip off extra truck connectors at a junkyard so I could make the entire harness plug-n-play without cutting into the factory body harness

 

Thanks...I copied the info to a side document but must have had cranial-anal immersion and didn't grab the part about what to do with the small black/orange wire if one did not want to do all the extra wiring with the efi relay.

I skimmed through your build a few times, but can't find how you dealt with the tach. If I can't score a v6 sr5 cluster, I will attempt the resistor on the stock cluster, as I already have a factory tach and would rather not have a dead gauge in the cluster and a pod one as well. If I have to go with the resistor, I will try to ghetto the supra cluster up so I can read that one while mucking with the truck one.

Thanks again

 

Here's a write-up on how to adjust it with a bit of solder and a resistor
http://www.mindspring.com/~jayk3/toyota/tachmod.htm

Here's what I did (I think my cluster came froma 4cyl also, so yours should be similar), there's a dashpot on the tach you can play with. What I did was hook my DVOM (has a tach function) to the coil and taped it to the windshield so I could read it. I then drove around for awhile with the cluster still apart/open and adjusted it till the rpm on my DVOM was the same as the tach at all RPM - simple adjustment really.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-screw-177658/

 

Wow i just happened to notice your from Eastern Pa.

Just where i am looking to go with the 7MGTE only because I have a Celica with that motor in. i am looking for a pick up with more power for towing.

Would love to see this in person

I also plan on putting a 5mge in a 4runner

a very good thread thanks for all the good information.

 

Did you have to weld in the engine mounts or did using the 5m brackets locate to motor corectly without having to fabricate and weld? Thanks, how is your swap on gas and power. I hope to do mine this year.

 

Motor mounts are all bolt-in, no welding

 

i hate diggin up old threads but this one is great! it helped me out greatly!

 

Glad I could help

 

Gonna drag this thread back up, it's a real good one. So I started gathering the parts for the swap, possibly found a 92 donor with a 7mgte, the man claims 27,000 miles on the rebuilt engine, but I have not confirmed. Found a few backups if that one doesnt pan out. I have checked every wrecking yard listed on this place ( https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...-yards-149035/ ) plus some and can not track down the 5mge mount brackets. Does anyone here have the dimensions of these mounts so I can just make my own? It would make my life quite a bit easier. I love my 22RE, but I need the power, and I love the challange.

 

you could try one of the national junkyard locating services that are ascattered all over the net - I think there were alot of Cressidas with 5MGEs in them (that's where I got mine). Worst case, bolt everything together, use a floor jack to lift the engine where you want it (enough room between the oil pan and tie rods?) and make your own measurements.

 

i'd recomend any one installing a 7m using 5m mount's to just save their self the hassle and weld them up right away. i used an old u-bolt and some 1/8 inch steer that i cut up i belive it was a sway bar mount or a steering stablizer . either way it was scrape.


i would install the mounts so they fit. lossen the 19mm nut if need to be. and then tighten it back up and pull them out and weld them up as you feel need to be.

i was simple test fitting and mine worked the first try after breaking both sides...

i probally will brace them up some more. but so far so good!

 

I think I found a set in Oklahoma City. I have a friend up there so it gives me an excuse to go see him. Corax, how many years have you been running the 7M now? Have you had any issues? Also, in all of my researching I have yet to find a 7M swap where the a/c was functional. I know this is due to clearance in front of the radatior, but have you seen any that have had the a/c working? I put one of my project cars on craigslist for sale or trade (for Supra or Cressida) and have a guy that wants to come look monday. I'm giddy

 

I saw this in person, its awesome!

 

It's been a minor evolution tinkering with it here and there for the last 4 years. Pretty much done though.

If you can find room for the condensor in the front, I had thought about using a Honda A/C compressor - the pulley should be OK and the outlets are on the correct side (if you mount on the passenger side of engine)

 

I am giving myself about 3 months for researching, rebuilding, gathering, and preping before I take out my engine. I have started gathering parts on ebay and craigslist, in the event of not finding an entire parts car. I bought 2 ecu's, one turbo on non, with full wire harnesses... wait for it..... $35 shipped to my door! I am working a deal on a bellhousing and a few other odds and ends. If I do find a good donor car I will prob just sell my extras on here for what I have in them. I love my truck, had it almost 10 years, but 0-60 in 3 days gets old!

 

know which wire harness you have - the turbo is different than non-turbo (Turbo uses an MAF, n/a uses an AFM)

 

I have one of each, both still with their ecu's. How has you trans handled the power. I know if I do a turbo I will need to step up my trans. I know Marlin makes a great one, but I would rather build it myself. I like doing manual transmissions.

 

When I bought my truck the trans was already shot so I installed a HD Marlin W56 trans right away and it's held up just fine (30k including 2 cross country trips with 3,500 lbs in the trailer behind it). It's not so much how much power you have as how you use that power that will kill a transmission - if you drive like a yahoo and try to shift like your driving something that's not a truck (or you think Fast N Furious was a good movie), then your trans may not like you for very long. Nice easy shifts and easing into the power will make the trans last much longer, the key is avoiding "shock loading" on the gears and bearings.

 

Hey Corax do you know what wire I need to tie into my starter signal?? On suracharged they say to use b1 (7) well I dont have that wire. It says to use a wire to let the ecu that you are starting the engine!