motoracer47

cool, ill post them up tonight when my roomate gets home with the camera(still on the memory stick)

NCSU-4runner

its not scary as long as you have the wiring diagrams for both vehicles, here's the home-made harness i put together so everything is still plug and play when i want to remove the main engine harness. The grey plugs are the stock harness plugs that go straight into the Supra ECU. The white plug is from radio-shack and goes to the cooresponding female plug i spliced into the stock 4runner body harness. It would have been a bit cleaner with heat-shrink tubing but i didnt have any and was too lazy to go to the store . Theres only about 4 wires you HAVE to do and mabe another 3-4 that you COULD do if you wanted to use your stock gauges. I'm using all aftermarket gauges in a custom panel so that didnt concern me.

PAhydrohead

It looks scary!!

jsnby

wow....i'd opt for the heat shrink

Cebby

I was one with the parts washer tonight. I cleaned both the front sump setup I'm not using and the LX470 version I picked up last week.

Remember when I said I was thankful for stupid people? I was eating those words tonight when it took me at least an hour and a half to clean the sludge out of the oil pickup. With the screen on the pickup end and the severe bends in the tube, threading something down there was a challenge. At first I was using the 1UZ dipstick because I couldn't find a coat hanger. That only reached so far, then I came across a coat hanger to get the rest of the way in there. Mostly is was coming out in small hunks, the consistency of jello. Then I got a few big pieces that looked like large leaches. You know your oil is spent when you can pick it up in chunks...

Here's the guts of my 1UZ before I pulled the pickup tube.




The oilpan sure looks alot cleaner now...


I had visions of getting more done, but I didn't head down until after midnight and the pickup tube was an unexpected headache..

I did have some added excitement to the evening. Through the drudgery that was cleaning the pickup tube out, I thought I heard a bottle breaking. So I shut off the parts washer and go check it out. I sort of snuck up to one of the outside windows and looked out. I saw some punk breaking into the back of the gas station across the alley from where I was. I quickly called the police to tell them whats up. I was on the phone with them for maybe 2 minutes max and they had 2 or 3 cars buzzing around the scene. Turns out there were two perps (and they caught the perps I later found out via a phone call from the police) I live in a nice town and want it to stay that way...

For anyone interested, I'm selling off the parts I'm not using in a thread here.

Cebby

Should I use the same black FIPG on the oil pickup tube where it meets the block? Reason I ask is that the 1UZ tube had no gasket whatsoever and the 2UZ tube had Toyota's paper gasket. FWIW, the 1UZ connection seemed to have gotten some crud on the surface between the two at some point in it's life.

Cebby

This is from my two hour session Friday night.

In she goes for one of many test fits...


Love working shoulder to shoulder with the bigblock Vette...


Where it was meant to be...


Discovered a few things with the initial test fit:

• The stock oil filter mount is way too long and will interfere with frame rail. I will need to make/buy a remote mount or something shorter. I'll also investigate other UZ filter mounts - maybe there's an easy bolt on solution...
• The stock exhaust mainfolds stick straight out from the heads which means contact with the steering and the top mounts for the A-Arms. I plan to do some more research on other stock manifolds, but a better solution that I'll likely take on is making a set of equal length runner block hugger headers.
• The rear sump oil pan allows the engine to be set into the engine bay nice and low (as in no body lift required). I figure if this part gets solved, lifting the body higher later and adding a drivetrain lift will be child's play.
• The steel part of the rear sump oilpan will need to be modified slightly to clear the front diff and one of the IFS mounts. The alterations will be pretty minor, so depending on the price of a new lower oilpan, the modified pan might be made toa stock pan or a new one will be built from scratch.
• There's all sorts of space for the engine mounts. That will likely be one of the easier parts of the swap.

Took some manuevering, but I got the engine back nice and close to the firewall.


Lots of room out front for radiator/fan.


Here's the stock filter mount without a filter - even a stubby filter won't make it unfortuantely.


This is before I had it back the whole way, but it still gets into the steering.


What you can't see in the above pic is that the exhaust manifold is resting on top of the top of the A-Arm mount. Fabricating headers would be a first for me. I would make something similar to (the beautiful work) that "Mudman" from Lextreme did (I'll likely shorten the runners a bit before the collectors though):








And at the business end, there's just about an inch between the relay rod and the front of the rear sump oilpan - I forgot to see if the steering stabilizer would fit in it's stock position. I'm sure this thing will be in and out quite a few more times...


The oilpan will only need to be "taken in" at the corners a little to clear the diff and the driver side IFS mount. (This part has me wishing it was already SFA) It will be a pretty easy alteration though...


Next up, removing the exhaust manifolds and another test fit as well as some measurements...

sschaefer3

I'm sure it's obvious, but it's going to be alot more work do deal with all that IFS crap.

Why don't you do a quickie, bim bam boogie, front leaf swap and you will have so much more room.

An SAS on this truck is extremely cheap, parts are premade from China and the process is so easy it is sick.

1. Weld a front hanger on

2. Plasma cut rear tube holes and weld tubes in

3. Unbolt IFS and cut and grind brackets

4. Bolt on SA

This is so easy I can do the welding for a customer while the IFS is still fully functional on the truck.

When you look at your oil pan pics, picture absolutley nothing there.

If you have undertaken this (V8), the rest is nothing.

mt_goat

Are you going to keep your rear ABS actuator in there? I've decided to remove mine to free up some more room. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=23361.0

Cebby

It will go - I plan to upgrade to FROR's full floater anyway (at some point - not sure if before or after SAS, Steve ), so it'll be useless junk at that point.

Cebby

I'd love to do this now also, but I can go forward as funds allow. As it stands, I want to build a beef front Toy axle (have the axle, but nothing for it yet). I figure 2K+ to build it right and that doesn't include suspension stuff. I also really don't want to go leafs and the route of everyone else doing swaps and use an off the shelf kit. Would it happen sooner? Sure. The only "kit" I'm currently considering is BTF's upcoming front link setup or my own version of something like this. Maybe I'll follow your lead and go SUA - I want this thing to be LOW.

One other reason I'm toiling through the IFS junk is that I want to figure this out for the folks that don't want/need a SA. After I figure all this stuff out, I plan to put together a kit of all the stuff needed so others can do the same swap without all the guesswork. Once it fits in a IFS rig, doing it in a SAS'd rig is a piece of cake.

sschaefer3

I would test drive all the of the various types as I did.

Let the seat of your pants make the call. Back in the day I wanted front links and coils or coil-over’s.


Needless to say, what I built suits the seat of my pants.

If you don't know people to ride with or test drive, get out more. Reading on the web is not acceptable for a suspension, YOU need to "feel" it.

Don't bag on leaf springs or the Chinese imported hanger parts. They may truly surprise you. The parts are good and extremely cheap.

You got money, stop buying tools.

Cebby

You've got me on a few things. Definitely need to get out more - all work and no play...

I've ridden in plenty of SOA trucks (granted not Trailgear or Marlin equipped Toys) and linked trucks (reg. coil/shock - hell my GC flexes well not even discoed), but not one coilover or SUA truck. I've bought in to the coilover hype without the experience of it I guess. If Cheese would just get his damn rig done, I could kill two birds with one trip out west (theoretically)... I just don't want anything tall - that's my main gripe of leaf SOA (that and the crappy on-road ride I've experienced).

Was your SUA experience on the FJ62 or other stuff too? The only SUA stuff I have access to are YJ's and I don't think those are good comparos.

If you can find me a 12 step program on the tool issue, I'd appreciate it.

sschaefer3

Willys CJ-2A and the FJ-62 for Spring Under. Wheel a 60 or 62 and you'll be sold. Offer some guy 20 bucks to dive his FJ thought a field, you'll see.

Karltons 2001 Tacoma SAS’d and Pmurfs 85 up what ever that hell trail was off of terminator. These were larger SO trucks.

Mark Mason for coils and links and coil-overs. In the end, he was back to 4 leaf springs. Built a second buggy with 4 leafs as well. The Kong's mobile ever worked as well back in the day as the other buggies with the leafs and he rolled ALOT more.

Randy Ellis has a spring under rear Tacoma setup. He takes it to Baja and says it has more travel than any Tacoma he has ever seen. He also told me running a factory built SU Dana 44 was not wise as it was braced differently and I should order a spring over unit from Dynatrack if I wanted SO. He was the most influential and helpful in all this. Here's a guy who built the first all coilover Jeep back in the 90's. Built the first fully IFS (front & rear) rock buggy and did well with it. Was invited to Top Truck in Hollister and was on the Junk Yard Wars. In the end he sold the buggy, did not like competitions, finally sold the Jeep and now has an IFS rear spring under Tacoma to take to Mexico. A HD late model Dodge and a bone stock 65 CJ-5. Those are his favorites it seems. A guy with all that knowledge, he likes his SU CJ-5 and SU'd his Tacoma. Some of the best advice he gave me was that with leaf springs you put them on and call it done. If he did my links they would be right the first time, if I did them, I should plan on many revisions to optimize them. That was it for me, one SAS not 4 or 5.

In the end, what I used was 100% local Arizonan advice. It worked.

I have all the best wishes for Cheese and his coil overs. I have no clue how they will work. I don't think anyone does. Maybe they will be good, maybe not. We don't know. It is certainly not what I wanted him to do, but it's what he wanted. At least I got the front my way.

My way would have been done last October too. Bottom line is I personally like the way SU leafs creep over stuff. I like the way the truck gets lower to the ground the more twisted up it gets. I like the way the SU leafs climb and you have zero wrap, I like the fact that I can and have gone 40 degrees sideways.

I like it. It is not cool on the web thought, I have warn you of that.

Cebby

I appreciate the advice Steve.

My wanting to do a Toyota front will likely keep me from attempting the link front route anyway since there's no room on that axle and I can't go wide with the fender coverage laws in PA. But, we'll see what BTF comes up with...

I'll get some seat time in a YJ or two and see what else I can find. I need to see for myself, but from the sounds of what you are saying, SO vs SU are night and day difference. I'm not sold on SO, so hopefully SU is a "better" config for leafs than what I've experienced.

You mentioned zero wrap with SU - this is intriguing. Are you talking about yours, or in general? I'll have around 300hp at the crank with this 1UZ and have some concerns. I know wrap is more prevalent with SO, with enough juice SU will also wrap up though. I've got plenty of time to research this prior to cutting stuff off.

Back on topic for a few...

"Budders" over on Marlin suggested looking at Tundra headers for my exhaust clearance problems. There are a few folks making headers for the 4.7, but I need to confirm that these actually fit the 1UZ heads.

JBA make a shorty header:

But I've got concerns that the big triangular flange they use won't clear the frame rails.

The other notable are Flowtech headers:

While these are a good efficient equal length design, the tube routing makes them pretty large - I doubt they'll fit the space available also.

The existing exhaust manifolds stick straight out from the heads (gotta measure how far). I can change the collector flange on the JBA if needed - but making my own is still not out of the realm...

sschaefer3

A YJ with good leafs will do just fine. Old Man Emu, Alcan, BDS, etc.

Not crap springs like Superlift and any of those other jack em up lift kit companies. As long as the YJ has springs with 5 or more leafs try it. Less pass as it is a POS and IFS rigs have more travel.

As for my lack of wrap, I have FJ-62 rear leafs which are 3" wide springs with 6 leafs per side. Also keep in mind I have a 2.7 4 Banger. I don't wrap, maybe you will. This is my solution and my solution is not necessaritly going to work for you part for part. My test driving Josh's 96 with the 3.4 and the FJ-62 leafs show the 3.4 can't wrap them either. But a 4.7 who knows?

Try the YJ for the seat of the pants feel, design your setup for your motor. Only other advice is that here is a HUGE difference between hand made leafs and anything off the shelf. Our FJ-62 has the high dollar Old Man Emu stuff and there is no question the Alcan 62 rear leafs are far superior.

I have used both Alcan and Deaver leafs on trucks I have built and they are both very nice, Deaver is even more expensive than Alcan. Both have nice leafs.

With you power, what about a full size Jeep Wagoneer suspension with Super 44's. The very late 80's GW has a Dana 44 and the AMC 20 was gone.

Good luck, off to test drives.

Cebby

Thanks Steve - good food for thought! Are you saying 44's F & R? or just up front? Are they 6 on 5.5? I've got some research to do...

OK, back to the headers...

These things came out further than I thought, the tale of the tape...


Almost 5 1/2" straight out from the heads. I need something that turns down instead of straight out.




Other side...


It appears the JBA headers won't work either due to where their shorty layout puts the collector flange (in my case this would be into the firewall. Big thank you to "Brad Bedell" on Lextreme for the pic. (He swapped a 1UZ into a Lexus IS300 Sportcross)

Cebby

Forgot to mention - the 1UZ, 2UZ and 3UZ use the same exhaust port layout...

sschaefer3

After Chrysler took over AMC, they dumped the AMC 20. The Jeep Grand Wagoneer, has the same bolt pattern as Toyota and are the right width, front and rear Dana 44. Only thing you will have to do is swap the studs out for Metric. Cro-Mo Axles and Lockers-o-plently for Dana 44's. Stock axle for the AMC 360. What is that, 5.8 liters?

The point I an trying to make here if any of the IFS crap is in the way of the motor cut it out/off.

DH6twinotter

Wow, nice progress Cebby! Awesome!

Didn't the 1uz have two different types of exhaust manifolds? I thought they had a tubular design and another design that is a bit more compact. Seems like I read a thread about it somewhere on Lextreme.

You planing on some mods to the engine to get 300hp? That would be sweet!