1UZFE swap into 2nd Gen 4Runner
#421
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Got a little more done today. Nice to be actually reassembling something. Today it was the engine. As you may recall I had stripped the TB, intake, and lower plenum so I could get at the starter to replace the contacts.
Put the coolant pipe back in place and was ready to tackle the injector/fuel rail seals. Had to pull the fuel rail assembly - easy as pie - 4 nuts.
Complete, as it came off the engine...
Fuel rail assembly removed
Fuel rail assembly (upsidedown)
Injector in the rail - these pull straight out pretty easily.
Rail with the injector removed.
Here's an injector removed from the rail. The grommet and insulator was pretty brittle. The o-ring was still pliable, but a couple of injectors came out very easily. There was a little leaking that predicated this teardown.
The injector with the old parts removed. From the left is the o-ring, the insulator, and the grommet.
Here's a side by side with the new part - notice how in the last pic that the grommet was all deformed.
P/N's (sold by each):
90301-07001 - O-Ring
23291-41010 - Insulator
90480-13005 - Grommet
Put the coolant pipe back in place and was ready to tackle the injector/fuel rail seals. Had to pull the fuel rail assembly - easy as pie - 4 nuts.
Complete, as it came off the engine...
Fuel rail assembly removed
Fuel rail assembly (upsidedown)
Injector in the rail - these pull straight out pretty easily.
Rail with the injector removed.
Here's an injector removed from the rail. The grommet and insulator was pretty brittle. The o-ring was still pliable, but a couple of injectors came out very easily. There was a little leaking that predicated this teardown.
The injector with the old parts removed. From the left is the o-ring, the insulator, and the grommet.
Here's a side by side with the new part - notice how in the last pic that the grommet was all deformed.
P/N's (sold by each):
90301-07001 - O-Ring
23291-41010 - Insulator
90480-13005 - Grommet
#422
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Thread Starter
I pulled the cam covers and cleaned them up nice in a parts washer (note to self, get parts washer for home shop).
They came out nice. Down the road after I've had this thing in and running for a while, I'll consider painting the covers and maybe the intake. Gotta head out to Lowes and find some rubber washers for the cam cover bolts. The old ones were shot.
All cleaned up...
Nice clean looking valvetrain...
It was good getting the intake back on:
Also discovered that the fan oilpump had another piece I could take off, so fabbing a coverplate to use the stock fan pump housing looks like it will work out.
Here's the other piece of the pump. I need to drive the pins out of the housing still.
Might not look like it, but there is ample clearance for a 1/4 coverplate with pulley attached.
They came out nice. Down the road after I've had this thing in and running for a while, I'll consider painting the covers and maybe the intake. Gotta head out to Lowes and find some rubber washers for the cam cover bolts. The old ones were shot.
All cleaned up...
Nice clean looking valvetrain...
It was good getting the intake back on:
Also discovered that the fan oilpump had another piece I could take off, so fabbing a coverplate to use the stock fan pump housing looks like it will work out.
Here's the other piece of the pump. I need to drive the pins out of the housing still.
Might not look like it, but there is ample clearance for a 1/4 coverplate with pulley attached.
Last edited by Cebby; 03-22-2006 at 05:12 PM.
#423
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Thread Starter
Last but not least, I think I will likely be making a custom oilpan. This one came with a front sump and might work out, but I want to keep it a little lower in the frame if possible. Here's reference pics. I'd like to make it hug the diff like the one on the 3.0
The black part is steel, but the silver portion is aluminum.
The back part of the upper pan is also the attachment point for the bellhousing. I might have to rethink this...
The black part is steel, but the silver portion is aluminum.
The back part of the upper pan is also the attachment point for the bellhousing. I might have to rethink this...
#425
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by snap-on
I second the impossible to remove the A340H WITHOUT pulling the motor while still connected. I had the same thing on mine but i stuggled for almost a full hr trying to get them off before i said screw it and started pulling the whole nine yards out.
Had i had more overhead space i could have gotten both the motor and trans out the engine compartment with out having to fight the trans down to the ground like you had to do cebby.
Had i had more overhead space i could have gotten both the motor and trans out the engine compartment with out having to fight the trans down to the ground like you had to do cebby.
#426
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by mt_goat
I just saw the in the FSM that the proceedure is to remove the engine and tranny together then unbolt the tranny after it is out of the truck
Did I read that you were reusing your A340H?
#427
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Originally Posted by Cebby
That works if you have the truck about 3' off the ground and an overhead hoist with about 16' of ceiling height. Not real practical for us shadetree mechanics.
Did I read that you were reusing your A340H?
Did I read that you were reusing your A340H?
No I have a wrecked 2001 tacoma donor for everything I need. Here she is if you want to see Goldie: http://community.webshots.com/album/383446112ZpbXpN/0
#428
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Join Date: Jan 2003
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Originally Posted by Cebby
OK, you've been hired to sit next to me and hold one of those hand held fans to keep me cool.
FYI, finally got my 4Runner back from Davis. Pretty much all new front IFS suspension parts. Man I wish a had the time to SAS it with the $2,000+ check I got from the insurance company!!
#429
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Originally Posted by PAhydrohead
Man I wish a had the time to SAS it with the $2,000+ check I got from the insurance company!!
#430
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Thread Starter
OK, we're 99.9% sure an oilpan off of a 2UZ (4.7) V8 will fit the 1UZ block. It appears that the steel part of the pan on the 2UZ is longer (instead just being up front) and is sort of a mid-ish sump designed to clear a front diff. This affords a better chance at a better fit with my config. Also, the steel portion could be reworked or a custom steel bottom pan could be worked up.
I found a 2UZ that had an electrical fire and burned up the top half of the motor, so I'm guessing they might part out the motor.
I found a 2UZ that had an electrical fire and burned up the top half of the motor, so I'm guessing they might part out the motor.
#432
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Thread Starter
Muzz over on Lextreme posted up his combo of the original with new alum grafted in.
Looks like a ton of work to me - I'd prefer to bolt together as much of this as possible for future swappers here in the US. If it fits and I can get it cheap, I'll attempt the 2UZ route. Even if I need to modify the steel part of the pan, it would be much easier.
Here's the Landcruiser version I found over on a tricked out Tundra over at Tundrasolutions (pics by jjc).
Looks like a ton of work to me - I'd prefer to bolt together as much of this as possible for future swappers here in the US. If it fits and I can get it cheap, I'll attempt the 2UZ route. Even if I need to modify the steel part of the pan, it would be much easier.
Here's the Landcruiser version I found over on a tricked out Tundra over at Tundrasolutions (pics by jjc).
#434
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Thread Starter
I have NO doubt I could TIG it effectively, but I'm trying to this as much as possible through bolt together solutions so the next contestant can have an easier go of it. Yes, it seems like a gameshow...
#435
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Originally Posted by Cebby
I found a 2UZ that had an electrical fire and burned up the top half of the motor, so I'm guessing they might part out the motor.
btw, my roomate has a 2000 tundra, if you want me to snap some pics of the oil pan, let me know.
Last edited by motoracer47; 03-25-2006 at 09:35 AM.
#436
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by Cebby
I haven't seen it yet, but that doesn't mean it still can't happen. The torque converter is full of fluid as is the transfer case (since it shares fluid with the trans on the A340H). I'm figuring tipping the assembly up on end should help it drain. I only pulled the drain plug - didn't even drop the pan - but I did stick the plug back in after I let it drain overnight initially. There's a chance more fluid is in the pan now - I'll pull the plug next time I'm down there.
I've found that the restaurant bussing pans work well for keeping fluids off the floor.
I've found that the restaurant bussing pans work well for keeping fluids off the floor.
Last edited by mt_goat; 03-25-2006 at 10:42 AM.
#437
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When you install a auto tranny you put the converter on the input spline of the tranny, bolt the ball housing onto the engine, then from the gap in the bottom bolt the tc to the flywheel. So it will stay attached to the motor if you havent undone those bolts
#438
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Originally Posted by Quakefire
When you install a auto tranny you put the converter on the input spline of the tranny, bolt the ball housing onto the engine, then from the gap in the bottom bolt the tc to the flywheel. So it will stay attached to the motor if you havent undone those bolts
#439
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by motoracer47
btw, my roomate has a 2000 tundra, if you want me to snap some pics of the oil pan, let me know.
The pics above of the LC oilpan were buried in the photogallery over there. I actually stumbled onto those through Google I think.
If you need to EM the files, send them to cebby at corequipment dot com
THANKS!!!
That Tundra motor would have been coming from Mt. Pleasant PA or threreabouts... They've easily had it for over a year at this point.
#440
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by mt_goat
No I haven't undone those bolts. Is it too late now, or can I go ahead and seperate them after I get the tranny down?