1UZFE swap into 2nd Gen 4Runner
#363
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I think I'm going to pull it off and redo it with less. I was following the directions on a writeup, but it looks like there's way too much tho.
Here's the pic from the writeup:
I thought mine looked the same...
Here's the pic from the writeup:
I thought mine looked the same...
#364
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: WA ,monroe
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i wouldn't worry much. you sould see what my uncle does :pat: both surfaces like what you done with the water pump and he's been doing it when he started building motors before i was born. i try to use little as possible. a tube will last me quite awhile.
#365
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I'm worried about the damn thing leaking and then trying to dismantle the motor in the tight 4Runner engine bay. You have to take apart half the motor to get to the pump. That engine bay is tight with the V6, let alone this behemouth...
#366
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I really think it will be ok since it has that groove that goes around the surface but, it's your motor.
is that a copper type rtv you are using?
is that a copper type rtv you are using?
Last edited by Cebby; 12-03-2005 at 02:08 AM.
#369
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Robinhood150
My friend and I thought it was a little much. All that stuff that squished out also squished in. Also, aren't you supposed to put the RTV around the bolt holes too?
#370
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by DudeBud
I really think it will be ok since it has that groove that goes around the surface but, it's your motor.
is that a copper type rtv you are using?
is that a copper type rtv you are using?
Yes. The directions I had said use high temp sealant. The copper stuff is good to 700 deg.
#371
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 4RocRunner92
How big of a gas tank are you using?
#372
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Cebby
I put it where the groove is on the water pump per the directions I had. There was no groove the whole way around all the bolt holes.
There was a nice "squish" in two areas on the inside of the pump (pulled off before taking the pics-oops). Lesson learned. It still wasn't fully set up yet in some areas...
#373
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Thread Starter
OK, take two...
Here she is all cleaned up.
The copper RTV was a major PITA to remove from the pump (those grooves do a nice job of keeping the RTV in there. At least I learned from it.
Considerably less this time, plus I smeared it around to make sure it was even.
Side view
Waterpump back on (sorry a little fuzzy)
Got the thermostat housing back on also (a pre-schmear pic...)
Even got the cams lined up properly while installing the timing belt this time.
Idlers reinstalled also...
Crank pulley and cover back on too
This is as far as I got yesterday (I did this AFTER replacing the waterpump, thermostat and changing the oil on my 2000 JGC)
Here she is all cleaned up.
The copper RTV was a major PITA to remove from the pump (those grooves do a nice job of keeping the RTV in there. At least I learned from it.
Considerably less this time, plus I smeared it around to make sure it was even.
Side view
Waterpump back on (sorry a little fuzzy)
Got the thermostat housing back on also (a pre-schmear pic...)
Even got the cams lined up properly while installing the timing belt this time.
Idlers reinstalled also...
Crank pulley and cover back on too
This is as far as I got yesterday (I did this AFTER replacing the waterpump, thermostat and changing the oil on my 2000 JGC)
#378
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Thread Starter
I was planning to work on it all day yesterday, but was hsopitalized for about 24 hours starting Sunday night.
My next steps (in order) are
1. pull the motor and trans
2. wrap up the motor items
3. build up the doubler
4. work out the motor mounts
5. work out the cooling
6. work out the fuel lines
7. work out the exhaust
8. wire it up
9. get the drive shafts modified
10. smoke the tires
My next steps (in order) are
1. pull the motor and trans
2. wrap up the motor items
3. build up the doubler
4. work out the motor mounts
5. work out the cooling
6. work out the fuel lines
7. work out the exhaust
8. wire it up
9. get the drive shafts modified
10. smoke the tires