mt_goat

My 93 Toyota pickup doesn't have a seperate fan on the AC condensor either. I never knew the 4runner did until I saw your pic above.

jr9162

Here's a site with pics of overhaul of the A340 transmission:

http://www.supras.nl/index.php?optio...d=35&Itemid=52

WildHare

Thanks for that link. I had found the same article on another website some time ago, and couldn't find it again. This will definitely help.

-Dan

Cebby

I have that one in my favorites - someone had put in one of the threads I have going on this swap. I couldn't find where though.

There is some good reading on many of the threads, but this one has the most replies. For anyone bored or wanting more info, here's all the other threads (alot is duplication of this thread - some is not):

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...9&page=1&pp=25
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=9434.0
http://www.pghoffroad.com/modules.ph...iewtopic&t=329
http://www.keystonekrawlers.com/foru...pic.php?t=7128
http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2653

WildHare

Thanks for spreading the info around. Keeps information from being too isolated.

Although, I'm suprised that Yotatech is giving you the most replies. I had expected more from pirate4x4 forums... they seem to have been around much longer and have MANY more active members.

However, take love where you get it!

JD

Cebby

This is Mikes fan set up with his 7MGTE conversion and what you need to do An excellent set of fans fully shrouded and cooling would be a non issue with these puppies at full noise.



JD

Cebby

Thanks for the pic JD! It looks like he is planning the fans in front of the rad. The cutting he did is similar to what I had in mind.

I finally got back down to the shop after my weeklong+ hiatus (family in from out of town).

On the Runner, just a couple little things done. The big news is that I got the motor off the skid and up onto the engine stand. For this particular stand, the fingers add roughly 2 7/16 (approx 60mm) to the bolts + thread depth (approx 30mm). So, I got (4) bolts M12 x 1.25tp x 90mm long. No pics of me actually bolting the engine to the stand (too much cursing)

How about a good look at that engine...

Yamaha+Toyota=Fun

I admire your work Cebby. Thats a big task your taking on and it looks like your making some progress. Keep at it.

Cebby

Got a few things done tonight:

Removed:

Skid
Coolant, ATF and Engine Oil
Bumper and valence
Flex-a-lite fan
Radiator
AC Condensor/Evap./piping
Horns
Hood latch/support

After getting all this stuff out, it appears that I the LS400 rad I was thinking about using is too large. Back to the drawng board...

Cebby

For those that have pulled this motor before, can I pull the engine/trans/t-case as one unit, or do I need to unbolt the trans from the block? Those bolts up on top of the trans have got to be a beotch if its the latter...

WildHare

I believe it is possible, as I have done similar removals alone. It requires some redneck flanageling as you are alone, but was not vastly different. Instead of having someone lift while I jiggled/moved the engine, I ended up lifting the combo and then using a lever (usually a 2x4) to clear obstacles. Remember to never have any part of your body under a hung weight, and to avoid swinging said hung weight.

For me there were four major hurdles. First is getting the front of the engine (with the output pulley attached) over the cross bar at the front of the engine bay (where your hood latch is bolted on). You may be able to get it over with a steeper engine angle. However, there is a point where at a given angle the transmission will hit the transmission hump in the body. I pushed/pulled the rear of the transfer case down until the output pulley clears the crossbar.

Second hurdle is getting the engine oil pan over that same cross bar, for the same reason cited above: engine angle makes tranny hit the transmission hump in the body. Solution for me is usually to lift the engine/tranny higher, with the transmission hump effectively holding the tranny down, allowing the engine oil pan over the cross bar. Usually comes out with a sudden motion, releasing energy.

Third hurdle is getting the transfer case past the front differential. The front output flange of the transfer case will want to hit the input flange of your front differential. I just used a 2x4 and some leverage to slip it past. Your transmission might be hitting the transmission hump at that point, requiring a little more effort to get it past. This is not nearly as bad a problem with a solid front axle, as it sits further from the engine... See, you need to get your axle swapped!

Fourth hurdle is getting the foward flange section of the transfer case over that front cross bar. For this I used a 2x4 to lift it up and over. I did bend the top of the crossbar some (it uses fairly light construction).

It should be noted that I did have one good asset: a high lift for my engine. When I got the combo out, the front of the engine was just over my head, with the apex of my lift chain probably another 4 feet higher, for a total lift of about 10 feet. This high lift and relatively steep angle made it much easier to remove the engine. Otherwise, you have to push down on the transmission more when getting it out from under the transmission hump, and tend to drag the engine/tranny over the front cross bar more.

Of course, some people just cut out the crossbar and avoid the whole problem. To each their own .

You will probably have a kickdown cable going to your current transmission (I assume it's auto), that goes along the underside of the transmission hump. You can crush this cable if you rub/hit it too much with the transmission while removing it. It may be a good idea to remove/move the cable before engine removal.

I really think the best option is to have a friend on hand. If you have the engine connections removed/unbolted, the transfer case crossmember removed and transmission supported by a jackstand, and the lift attached and ready... you could get it out in 2 hours if you do it slowly.

However, I can understand having to do it alone. I did this engine swap and two body swaps unassisted. I can thump my chest, but there were some aggrivating moments! And one or two scary ones!

In any case, good luck!

JD

Cebby

What I do is jack up the rear as far as possible and support it with stands. Then jack up the front and the remove wheels and support the car with some soft blocks of wood under the bottom steering knuckle.

This gives a much better working angle and my engine and trans slides out no probs

JD

PAhydrohead

Friend here!!! Mike call me whenever you need a hand. I know you may be doing this stuff at off hours but late after the kids are in bed works for me.

P.S. Paragon was awesome. Wish you could have been there! Put a big crease in my driveshaft attempting to climb up a 4 ft rock face and had to drive all the way home at 45 mph!

bamachem

Cebby,

If you're going to electric fans, you might as well do it right....

my ttora writeup:

http://www.tacomaterritory.com/wiki/..._Toyota_Shroud

yotatech writeup:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/electric-fan-variable-speed-controller-installed-61008/

ebay auction for my fan:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7963226589

Cebby

I've been thinking alot about this and think I have 1 big problem.

The ceiling height where I'm working is only about 8 feet. The hoist I'll be using is one of those gantry type with the chain drive. Similar to this:



I've been using a new acquisition to the tool box for alot of this disassembly. It has made life pretty easy thus far.



If I can get in there with it (or with a combo of extensions), it shouldn't be too bad to get the bolts out if I loosen everything and drop the tail of the t-case to ease access as some have suggested.

I have a pretty busy week, but hope to get the motor/trans/tcase out before next weekend. I get one free weekend in August since my wife is heading out of town with my kids, so I want to have that weekend for trouble shooting the wiring (I hope). This may be a tall order though since I have to rebuild 2 t-cases and assemble the dual ultimate also.

Cebby

Thanks for the links Andy. Do you have any idea how much air the Volvo fan moves? I'm shooting for 3500-4000 cfm since I'll be foregoing the AC fan and the added engine size. even if I don't use that particular fan, that controller you are using is a keeper!!

Cebby

OK, I received a Tundra torque converter today. I compared it to the LS400 TC. While there is a slight difference dimensionally, the big diffference is in the weight. Even with some ATF left in the LS400 TC (and virtually none in the Tundra TC), the Tundra TC weighs at least 1/3 more. (Sorry, no scale handy). The top half of the two TC's are virtually identical, the difference lies on the driveplate side of the TC. The Tundra TC measures roughly 12" diameter, while the LS400 TC is roughly 11 3/8".



So, the added size and weight should help dissipate the heat associated with the auto trans/crawlers (with adequate coolers installed of course)

bamachem

I don't know what the airflow is. However, I do know what that fan sounds like at 50% w/ the AC contact energized and at 100% with a direct lead to the battery as far as I know it hasn't gone above about 65-75% under full load in 95+ degree temps, AC cranked, and in stop and go traffic. I also have a trans cooler infront of the AC condenser, so it's pulling TRIPLE duty

Hayden Trans Cooler > AC Condenser > OEM Trans Cooler & Radiator

It's all the way off on the highway w/ good flow and is barely running in low speed driving. it really only cranks up when very hot in traffic.

One thing that I believe contributes to that is the efficient design of the blade coupled with the fact that I used the OEM shroud that covers the entire radiator and not just part of it. More surface area = a more efficient heat exchanger.

rockota

don't try and take everything out as a unit - too much work. You'll end up with binding - I broke a windshield doing this.

Cebby

Spent 5 hours at the shop tonight. I'm bushed!

Got a good amount done though.

Pulled the trans fluid cooler
Pulled the crossmember
Finished uphooking everything in the engine bay (balance of the AC piping and power steering hoses)

Then I ran into a problem... I can't get any of my damn driveshaft bolts out. I tried everything. I'm going to pickup a set of wobble impact sockets so I can use my impact wrench on those stubborn buggers. Any words of wisdom (other than heat..)

When I ran into this issue, I turned my attention to 1UZ. Time to start tearing into it. Important thing to note: Even if the folks you get the engine from say they drained all the fluids, don't believe it. I flipped mine over and proceded to dump a bunch of coolant on the floor. Then I discovered that my mounting of the engine to the stand was far from balanced - when I flipped it, it about threw me into the air (no small feat!). I found that I was unable to flip it back over, so then I push the engine across the shop to where the chain hoist is. Hook it to the engine and start hoistin'. Phew!

So, then I tear into the engine.

I got the TB and top intake plenum off, then I stripped the existing harness off. I have a couple of sensors to unhook, but for the most part, I'm ready to install the new harness. Here's a few pics of the strippage: