1UZFE swap into 2nd Gen 4Runner
07-14-2005, 09:53 PM
#201
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Cebby
You are certainly putting a lot of work into your rig.
I’ve just come across this thread so my $0.02.
With this set up and its obvious intended use the big issue is going to be overall cooling particularly in slow moving situations. There will be limited space between the engine and rad meaning this will dictate fan size. Pusher fans may be a better alternative to consider but again this will require some re engineering of the front grill area to ensure good airflow via high CFM fan/s.
You indicate you hope to retain a/c. If so, in all honestly as part of the conversion process I suggest you look at relocating the a/c condensor to the rear with its own fans etc. Having a hot condensor and further air restriction up front is going to compound the problem even more.
Shame your went for the auto,
Again at this stage I would work on installing remote trans coolers for the auto away from the rad. The heated trans oil is going to be THE major problem and if combined with the engine cooling it’s a no win.
These auto’s work fine in a car but they have very small torque converters and when in a 4wd by nature they can generate excessive oil temps, which can be difficult to control and in some scenarios impossible.
I had a V8 matched to the A340H trans using the normal Toy converter and the V8 would easily “overpower” the small converter and cause way to much excessive oil temp not to mention kill acceleration.
Years ago, I also swapped in an A341E front input shaft section into the A340H so I could use the slightly larger converter that came with the 1UZ as being a V8, I guessed it would be a better match.
It was, but not great as the engine could still “overpower” it and prior to fitting it I also had the high stall modified. Even so, I would also recommend you have mods made to the converters high stall before installation. In your case I would also have the valve body done to make the shifts more positive.
At one stage I also modified a T700 converter to fit onto the smaller Toy trans input and if you measure a T700 converter compared to the Toy input shaft length it seems an impossible task. But this set up was absolutely awesome and made the trans perfect with nice direct drive with minimal high stall and no oil temp issues etc. But after awhile an internal seal I had to use developed a slight leak that made the shifts occasionally shudder so I scrapped it.
At the end of the day the complete solution for me was to swap to a 5 speed,
You are fitting crawlers so you need to consider that adequate airflow is going to be the critical issue when using this set up as intended with the auto.
It would be possible to engineer the cooling sufficiently for a 5 speed as the only requirement is engine cooling but using an auto is a different ballgame and especially the A series with their small converters.
I would strongly recommend while its still in the planning stages give this issue a lot of thought and strip and re engineer the whole front grill area to allow the biggest high flow electric fans possible. Relocate the a/c condensor and trans oil cooler otherwise the whole conversion could turn out to be a complete waste of time, unless of course you wheel in snow,
You are certainly putting a lot of work into your rig.
I’ve just come across this thread so my $0.02.
With this set up and its obvious intended use the big issue is going to be overall cooling particularly in slow moving situations. There will be limited space between the engine and rad meaning this will dictate fan size. Pusher fans may be a better alternative to consider but again this will require some re engineering of the front grill area to ensure good airflow via high CFM fan/s.
You indicate you hope to retain a/c. If so, in all honestly as part of the conversion process I suggest you look at relocating the a/c condensor to the rear with its own fans etc. Having a hot condensor and further air restriction up front is going to compound the problem even more.
Shame your went for the auto,
Again at this stage I would work on installing remote trans coolers for the auto away from the rad. The heated trans oil is going to be THE major problem and if combined with the engine cooling it’s a no win.These auto’s work fine in a car but they have very small torque converters and when in a 4wd by nature they can generate excessive oil temps, which can be difficult to control and in some scenarios impossible.
I had a V8 matched to the A340H trans using the normal Toy converter and the V8 would easily “overpower” the small converter and cause way to much excessive oil temp not to mention kill acceleration.
Years ago, I also swapped in an A341E front input shaft section into the A340H so I could use the slightly larger converter that came with the 1UZ as being a V8, I guessed it would be a better match.
It was, but not great as the engine could still “overpower” it and prior to fitting it I also had the high stall modified. Even so, I would also recommend you have mods made to the converters high stall before installation. In your case I would also have the valve body done to make the shifts more positive.
At one stage I also modified a T700 converter to fit onto the smaller Toy trans input and if you measure a T700 converter compared to the Toy input shaft length it seems an impossible task. But this set up was absolutely awesome and made the trans perfect with nice direct drive with minimal high stall and no oil temp issues etc. But after awhile an internal seal I had to use developed a slight leak that made the shifts occasionally shudder so I scrapped it.
At the end of the day the complete solution for me was to swap to a 5 speed,
You are fitting crawlers so you need to consider that adequate airflow is going to be the critical issue when using this set up as intended with the auto.
It would be possible to engineer the cooling sufficiently for a 5 speed as the only requirement is engine cooling but using an auto is a different ballgame and especially the A series with their small converters.
I would strongly recommend while its still in the planning stages give this issue a lot of thought and strip and re engineer the whole front grill area to allow the biggest high flow electric fans possible. Relocate the a/c condensor and trans oil cooler otherwise the whole conversion could turn out to be a complete waste of time, unless of course you wheel in snow,
07-15-2005, 12:37 PM
#206
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by naksukow
Do the H-series run hotter than F or E series because of the full time 4wd?
07-15-2005, 04:30 PM
#207
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by JD
With this set up and its obvious intended use the big issue is going to be overall cooling particularly in slow moving situations. There will be limited space between the engine and rad meaning this will dictate fan size. Pusher fans may be a better alternative to consider but again this will require some re engineering of the front grill area to ensure good airflow via high CFM fan/s.
You indicate you hope to retain a/c. If so, in all honestly as part of the conversion process I suggest you look at relocating the a/c condensor to the rear with its own fans etc. Having a hot condensor and further air restriction up front is going to compound the problem even more.
Shame your went for the auto, Again at this stage I would work on installing remote trans coolers for the auto away from the rad. The heated trans oil is going to be THE major problem and if combined with the engine cooling it’s a no win.
These auto’s work fine in a car but they have very small torque converters and when in a 4wd by nature they can generate excessive oil temps, which can be difficult to control and in some scenarios impossible.
I had a V8 matched to the A340H trans using the normal Toy converter and the V8 would easily “overpower” the small converter and cause way to much excessive oil temp not to mention kill acceleration.
Years ago, I also swapped in an A341E front input shaft section into the A340H so I could use the slightly larger converter that came with the 1UZ as being a V8, I guessed it would be a better match.
It was, but not great as the engine could still “overpower” it and prior to fitting it I also had the high stall modified. Even so, I would also recommend you have mods made to the converters high stall before installation. In your case I would also have the valve body done to make the shifts more positive.
At one stage I also modified a T700 converter to fit onto the smaller Toy trans input and if you measure a T700 converter compared to the Toy input shaft length it seems an impossible task. But this set up was absolutely awesome and made the trans perfect with nice direct drive with minimal high stall and no oil temp issues etc. But after awhile an internal seal I had to use developed a slight leak that made the shifts occasionally shudder so I scrapped it.
At the end of the day the complete solution for me was to swap to a 5 speed,
You are fitting crawlers so you need to consider that adequate airflow is going to be the critical issue when using this set up as intended with the auto.
It would be possible to engineer the cooling sufficiently for a 5 speed as the only requirement is engine cooling but using an auto is a different ballgame and especially the A series with their small converters.
I would strongly recommend while its still in the planning stages give this issue a lot of thought and strip and re engineer the whole front grill area to allow the biggest high flow electric fans possible. Relocate the a/c condensor and trans oil cooler otherwise the whole conversion could turn out to be a complete waste of time, unless of course you wheel in snow,
You indicate you hope to retain a/c. If so, in all honestly as part of the conversion process I suggest you look at relocating the a/c condensor to the rear with its own fans etc. Having a hot condensor and further air restriction up front is going to compound the problem even more.
Shame your went for the auto,
Again at this stage I would work on installing remote trans coolers for the auto away from the rad. The heated trans oil is going to be THE major problem and if combined with the engine cooling it’s a no win.These auto’s work fine in a car but they have very small torque converters and when in a 4wd by nature they can generate excessive oil temps, which can be difficult to control and in some scenarios impossible.
I had a V8 matched to the A340H trans using the normal Toy converter and the V8 would easily “overpower” the small converter and cause way to much excessive oil temp not to mention kill acceleration.
Years ago, I also swapped in an A341E front input shaft section into the A340H so I could use the slightly larger converter that came with the 1UZ as being a V8, I guessed it would be a better match.
It was, but not great as the engine could still “overpower” it and prior to fitting it I also had the high stall modified. Even so, I would also recommend you have mods made to the converters high stall before installation. In your case I would also have the valve body done to make the shifts more positive.
At one stage I also modified a T700 converter to fit onto the smaller Toy trans input and if you measure a T700 converter compared to the Toy input shaft length it seems an impossible task. But this set up was absolutely awesome and made the trans perfect with nice direct drive with minimal high stall and no oil temp issues etc. But after awhile an internal seal I had to use developed a slight leak that made the shifts occasionally shudder so I scrapped it.
At the end of the day the complete solution for me was to swap to a 5 speed,
You are fitting crawlers so you need to consider that adequate airflow is going to be the critical issue when using this set up as intended with the auto.
It would be possible to engineer the cooling sufficiently for a 5 speed as the only requirement is engine cooling but using an auto is a different ballgame and especially the A series with their small converters.
I would strongly recommend while its still in the planning stages give this issue a lot of thought and strip and re engineer the whole front grill area to allow the biggest high flow electric fans possible. Relocate the a/c condensor and trans oil cooler otherwise the whole conversion could turn out to be a complete waste of time, unless of course you wheel in snow,
I know that my #1 issue will be cooling. While I don't live in a REALLY hot climate, it gets hot enough here.
To compound matters, I will have a winch up front and all of it's airflow robbing characteristics. I will likely use an oversized aluminum racing radiator with large pusher fans and separate fan forced rad/coolers for the trans. Relocating the AC is a good idea and one I had not thought of. Do you have any pics of a setup like this (AC out back). It could only go underneath (?) since I have a 4Runner (Surf), not a pickup.
Regarding the torque converter, the one for the A340F is rather small and I had not planned to use it. I have the torque converter out of a LS400 (A341E) that I was planning to use. To do this, I changed the input shaft/oil pump on the A340F to the LS400 version also. I have a torque converter out of a Tundra non its way to me also and want to see what the diffferences are.
I really want to make the auto work and keep the A/C. I'd appreciate your input moving forward as I'll post up things I'll be trying to accomplish.
Thanks, Mate!
Last edited by Cebby; 07-15-2005 at 04:31 PM.
07-16-2005, 02:42 AM
#208
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Thread Starter
I'm wondering if I can fit either an LS400 rad or Tundra/Sequoia rad into my 4Runner (with mods of course). Anyone with a Tundra - Can you measure the radiator? (W x H x Th) Thanks!
07-16-2005, 03:43 AM
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Mike
I used and a/c condensor as a trans oil cooler mounted above the spare tyre on my 4Runner. I had a temp guage with a two way switch with sensors in the outlet line and inlet line of the trans.
Flicking the switch allowed both temps to be easily monitored and also determine if the various coolers worked
. I tested all the usual coolers on the market but they did nothing, whereas this set up worked great. I ran the lines threw the chassis.
If you have a rear mounted tyre then you could also mount another similar set up for the air con with twin fans etc.
Some of the Surfs came with a separate a/c system with fans that were mounted just under the bottom of the rad and tilted back etc. You could try and find one of these as it would be ideal for relocating at the rear as it has all the necessary fittings.
Regarding the torque converter, the one for the A340F is rather small and I had not planned to use it. I have the torque converter out of a LS400 (A341E) that I was planning to use. To do this, I changed the input shaft/oil pump on the A340F to the LS400 version also.
Yep, that is what I did 11 years ago
and I also had the stall reduced. It did make a slight difference but they are still very small when compared to say a T700 or C4 converter etc. From my experience you will definatetly need to ensure you have an efficient trans cooler setup as you obviously plan on some slow dual transfer wheeling etc and keep it away from the rad area
For the engine gut the frontal area and mount a wide rad with large twin fans that the modern cars now use etc.
The main reason I eventually decided to swap to a 5 speed was I do a lot of beach work and the auto was frustrating in that I could never idle along soft beach in top etc as it would always change down even though the engine had heaps of torque to pull in top. I also found it frustrating not being able to start off in higher gears etc.
JD
I used and a/c condensor as a trans oil cooler mounted above the spare tyre on my 4Runner. I had a temp guage with a two way switch with sensors in the outlet line and inlet line of the trans.
Flicking the switch allowed both temps to be easily monitored and also determine if the various coolers worked
. I tested all the usual coolers on the market but they did nothing, whereas this set up worked great. I ran the lines threw the chassis.If you have a rear mounted tyre then you could also mount another similar set up for the air con with twin fans etc.
Some of the Surfs came with a separate a/c system with fans that were mounted just under the bottom of the rad and tilted back etc. You could try and find one of these as it would be ideal for relocating at the rear as it has all the necessary fittings.
Regarding the torque converter, the one for the A340F is rather small and I had not planned to use it. I have the torque converter out of a LS400 (A341E) that I was planning to use. To do this, I changed the input shaft/oil pump on the A340F to the LS400 version also.
Yep, that is what I did 11 years ago
and I also had the stall reduced. It did make a slight difference but they are still very small when compared to say a T700 or C4 converter etc. From my experience you will definatetly need to ensure you have an efficient trans cooler setup as you obviously plan on some slow dual transfer wheeling etc and keep it away from the rad area For the engine gut the frontal area and mount a wide rad with large twin fans that the modern cars now use etc.
The main reason I eventually decided to swap to a 5 speed was I do a lot of beach work and the auto was frustrating in that I could never idle along soft beach in top etc as it would always change down even though the engine had heaps of torque to pull in top. I also found it frustrating not being able to start off in higher gears etc.
JD
07-16-2005, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Cebby
I'm wondering if I can fit either an LS400 rad or Tundra/Sequoia rad into my 4Runner (with mods of course). Anyone with a Tundra - Can you measure the radiator? (W x H x Th) Thanks!
Steve
Edit: Awwww.... screw it.... I had the hood up on mine. Total dims are 31" wide (mounting screw-mounting screw) x 25" high. Cooling surface is about 26.5"w x 22"h. Dang its HOT out there !
Last edited by Lefty; 07-16-2005 at 12:34 PM.
07-16-2005, 01:44 PM
#212
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Originally Posted by Lefty
Dunno if it would help. I got a V8 4th Gen I could easily take the radiator dimensions of...
Steve
Edit: Awwww.... screw it.... I had the hood up on mine. Total dims are 31" wide (mounting screw-mounting screw) x 25" high. Cooling surface is about 26.5"w x 22"h. Dang its HOT out there !
Steve
Edit: Awwww.... screw it.... I had the hood up on mine. Total dims are 31" wide (mounting screw-mounting screw) x 25" high. Cooling surface is about 26.5"w x 22"h. Dang its HOT out there !
If you could shoot a couple of pics that would really help too - mainly the position of the inlet/outlet and how it is mounted. That sounds pretty big - not sure if I have the room between my framerails...
07-17-2005, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Cebby
I forgot the 4.7 was in the 4Runners now too. Thanks for the dims Steve. I've read that in addition to the clutch fans that they were supplementing with pusher fans also (at least on the Sequoia with rear air). Does yours have this too?
If you could shoot a couple of pics that would really help too - mainly the position of the inlet/outlet and how it is mounted. That sounds pretty big - not sure if I have the room between my framerails...
If you could shoot a couple of pics that would really help too - mainly the position of the inlet/outlet and how it is mounted. That sounds pretty big - not sure if I have the room between my framerails...
I also have an old Tundra Haynes manual (up to 2002) laying around here if you want me to look anything up in that for ya.
Steve
07-17-2005, 07:31 AM
#214
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Thread Starter
No I have not been sitting idle. I had to whip up a workbench since the place I'm working in is pretty empty. I know it's OT, but it's related for me...
1 - 4 x 8 sheet of 3/4 plywood
5 - 2 x 4 x 10
2 - Tote a Horse saw horses
Cut list for 2 x 4 x 10's
2 - 96"
6 - 45"
4 - 22 1/2"
Round over the edge on the plywood with a 1/2 round over router bit. Screw it all together and you are good to go.
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http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/S...%20drawing.dwg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/S...%20drawing.pdf
1 - 4 x 8 sheet of 3/4 plywood
5 - 2 x 4 x 10
2 - Tote a Horse saw horses
Cut list for 2 x 4 x 10's
2 - 96"
6 - 45"
4 - 22 1/2"
Round over the edge on the plywood with a 1/2 round over router bit. Screw it all together and you are good to go.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/S...%20drawing.dwg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/S...%20drawing.pdf
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07-17-2005, 08:01 AM
#217
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Thread Starter
The last of them...
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Discovered that both of my radiator brackets have pulled away from the radiator (both sides)...
It's getting replaced anyway though... 
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Discovered that both of my radiator brackets have pulled away from the radiator (both sides)...
It's getting replaced anyway though...
07-17-2005, 10:43 AM
#219
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You have the filter where 3.0TD 4Runners have the second battery hehehe.
Yeah, another difference between american and european 4Runners. 3.0TD 4Runners have stock dual batteries.
David
Yeah, another difference between american and european 4Runners. 3.0TD 4Runners have stock dual batteries.
David
07-17-2005, 12:03 PM
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Thanks for the updates, and I wish you good progress in the future. I can understand a full schedule (85 hrs/week?!), as I am in school full time and work full time myself.
I eagerly await the news about the Tundra torque converter. It seems for us Americans that want to do the swap, an automatic tranny is the most viable solution, as the costs of shipping a setup from Australia seem too big.
Also, for me, I'm through "rowing my own". Part of the reason of having a V8, for me, is smooth, consistent delivery of power. This is realized very well with an auto tranny. Plus: I can work the gas AND the brake at the same time!
I eagerly await the news about the Tundra torque converter. It seems for us Americans that want to do the swap, an automatic tranny is the most viable solution, as the costs of shipping a setup from Australia seem too big.
Also, for me, I'm through "rowing my own". Part of the reason of having a V8, for me, is smooth, consistent delivery of power. This is realized very well with an auto tranny. Plus: I can work the gas AND the brake at the same time!
