1UZ-FE into 1988 4runner 3.0 3vze
#321
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
yea i only looked thru online parts stores and found ls 400s depending on either federal or california were either 90 amp or 100amp.
not really sure on the sc 400's didnt look them up . .. but either way i think i did upgrade.
i also installed another radiator . (Same one ,type and size) installed my dual batteries also.
not really sure on the sc 400's didnt look them up . .. but either way i think i did upgrade.
i also installed another radiator . (Same one ,type and size) installed my dual batteries also.
#322
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
ok so after my last trip to Hollister .. i had a bad vibration at time s i ended up finding it
its the engine .. I have a burnt valve.so finally after 301,000 miles on the engine shes done .. I was planning to rebuild one of the engines i have here and have it ready for when this one went out but i never got around to it , i have some of the parts but not all of them .. so im just going to drop in one of the running engines i have .. it has 182,000 miles on it but its all good ..so i guess thats what im doing this weekend , i think !
im gonna try and hurry up on getting the other parts i need to rebuild the other one .
its the engine .. I have a burnt valve.so finally after 301,000 miles on the engine shes done .. I was planning to rebuild one of the engines i have here and have it ready for when this one went out but i never got around to it , i have some of the parts but not all of them .. so im just going to drop in one of the running engines i have .. it has 182,000 miles on it but its all good ..so i guess thats what im doing this weekend , i think !
im gonna try and hurry up on getting the other parts i need to rebuild the other one .
#325
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
yea its all good though . i knew it was coming ..
#326
Registered User
#327
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
ok so a little change of plans .. i have a couple high mileage engines and was planning on just throwing one of those in the runner , but i found a really low mileage ls 400 engine for a good price .. 64,000 miles for $350 , actually the guy wanted $600 , i thought what the heck id try to go get it cheaper .. after a little negotiating he ended up keeping the A/C compressor and the alternator and i got the rest of the engine for $350. it was all good since im not running A/C and i just bought an alternator.
the car is a 1993 ls 400 that was totaled , hes parting it out.
he did cut the harness and i dont really want to open this low mileage engine up up to remove it , im just gonna install the missing harness which i picked up at picknpull for $15.00.
its really not as easy as it looks .. the same color wire is used a couple different times have to read thru the engine control diagram and make sure i have the correct one for the part ..
ive done 9 wires and had yellow and green used twice and the yellow and black used twice .. each one goes straight from the part to the computer .. only 63 more to go .
anyways .since i plan on supercharging this thing .. i feel alot better having this lower mileage engine in now ..
the car is a 1993 ls 400 that was totaled , hes parting it out.
he did cut the harness and i dont really want to open this low mileage engine up up to remove it , im just gonna install the missing harness which i picked up at picknpull for $15.00.
its really not as easy as it looks .. the same color wire is used a couple different times have to read thru the engine control diagram and make sure i have the correct one for the part ..
ive done 9 wires and had yellow and green used twice and the yellow and black used twice .. each one goes straight from the part to the computer .. only 63 more to go .
anyways .since i plan on supercharging this thing .. i feel alot better having this lower mileage engine in now ..
Last edited by RMA; 08-14-2010 at 10:20 PM.
#328
Registered User
Nice Find!
Do you really have to tear that deep into it to replace the harness? I would've assumed it was easier to do that than try to deal with finding and matching wires.
Good Luck!! And keep up the great work and posts!
Do you really have to tear that deep into it to replace the harness? I would've assumed it was easier to do that than try to deal with finding and matching wires.
Good Luck!! And keep up the great work and posts!
#329
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
^ well the whole intake needs to come off and all the plastics and stuff on top .. i didnt want to deal with broken clips gaskets and stuff ..
i finished the wiring already and except for having to tone out the wires it wasnt to bad.
the engine is a 93 and the harness i got is from a 92 .. both had 72 wires and all but 2 wires matched as far as color goes ..
the knock sensors on the 92 were green shielded and the ones on the 93 were brown shielded . that was the only difference .
so i took friday and monday off and after i take my kids to the circus(Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey: Barnum's Funundrum!) ill be swapping engines .
i finished the wiring already and except for having to tone out the wires it wasnt to bad.
the engine is a 93 and the harness i got is from a 92 .. both had 72 wires and all but 2 wires matched as far as color goes ..
the knock sensors on the 92 were green shielded and the ones on the 93 were brown shielded . that was the only difference .
so i took friday and monday off and after i take my kids to the circus(Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey: Barnum's Funundrum!) ill be swapping engines .
Last edited by RMA; 09-04-2010 at 09:45 PM.
#333
im starting to think all my issues are from a bad wire harness, not the wiring conversion itself but maybe old brittle/broken wires in the harness. ive pretty much changed every sensor on my truck so its frustrating when there is still issues.. i guess u could say i dont like mine lol.. 2jz is tempting right now.
sorry for the thread jack RMA lol
sorry for the thread jack RMA lol
#334
Registered User
Glad you got it done. I didn't realize it was mostly just matching wires, rather than hunting down and identifying each one individually.
Good Luck with your swap!
Grant
Good Luck with your swap!
Grant
#337
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
im starting to think all my issues are from a bad wire harness, not the wiring conversion itself but maybe old brittle/broken wires in the harness. ive pretty much changed every sensor on my truck so its frustrating when there is still issues.. i guess u could say i dont like mine lol.. 2jz is tempting right now.
sorry for the thread jack RMA lol
sorry for the thread jack RMA lol
the engine harness should only need 2 wires changed for your manual swap.. thats to bypass the neutral park switch . The IL1 #8 should be spliced with IL2#6 on the engine side thats it for the engine harness .Everything else will be on the body side of E11,IL1,IL2,IL3
another thing .. ive seen some threads where the guys are using manual trannies and they have problems with the engine working right. something having to do with the speed sensor , and that because the ecu relies on signals from the auto ..but i really dont know much more than that about it.
yea i hadnt feed her yet.
#338
Registered User
your going to be like sideshow over on lextreme rma.. guys got hundreds of swaps under his belt full of good info too.
with mine i just ran the nssw to key on 12v, i used the factory engine plugs, then just spliced them in to the corresponding wire on the 3v pigtail i cut from my old harness, made things easy and simple all just plug in. it really helps to have a wiring diagram for each vehicle, compare double check, test, wire nut, test confirm, then solder heat shrink.
your go through the process and you should only need to do it once, i am sure rma like everyone else (me too) have had to make changes after reviewing our work this is the wire nut stage.. i got mine running and revving before i soldered anything..
with mine i just ran the nssw to key on 12v, i used the factory engine plugs, then just spliced them in to the corresponding wire on the 3v pigtail i cut from my old harness, made things easy and simple all just plug in. it really helps to have a wiring diagram for each vehicle, compare double check, test, wire nut, test confirm, then solder heat shrink.
your go through the process and you should only need to do it once, i am sure rma like everyone else (me too) have had to make changes after reviewing our work this is the wire nut stage.. i got mine running and revving before i soldered anything..
#339
Registered User
o on the vss signal.. don't sweat thinking of a way to trick the ecu, no need to.
i removed every single wire to do with the auto trans.. no issues.. you may get a MIL but
nothing that will hinder the engines operation.
if you look over the diagram there is really only a few inputs to the ecu from the trans, i think they are the two speed sensors for the trans, input and output.. you can trace the wires for the vss and they don't even go into the ecu.
i removed every single wire to do with the auto trans.. no issues.. you may get a MIL but
nothing that will hinder the engines operation.
if you look over the diagram there is really only a few inputs to the ecu from the trans, i think they are the two speed sensors for the trans, input and output.. you can trace the wires for the vss and they don't even go into the ecu.
#340
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
your going to be like sideshow over on lextreme rma.. guys got hundreds of swaps under his belt full of good info too.
with mine i just ran the nssw to key on 12v, i used the factory engine plugs, then just spliced them in to the corresponding wire on the 3v pigtail i cut from my old harness, made things easy and simple all just plug in. it really helps to have a wiring diagram for each vehicle, compare double check, test, wire nut, test confirm, then solder heat shrink.
your go through the process and you should only need to do it once, i am sure rma like everyone else (me too) have had to make changes after reviewing our work this is the wire nut stage.. i got mine running and revving before i soldered anything..
with mine i just ran the nssw to key on 12v, i used the factory engine plugs, then just spliced them in to the corresponding wire on the 3v pigtail i cut from my old harness, made things easy and simple all just plug in. it really helps to have a wiring diagram for each vehicle, compare double check, test, wire nut, test confirm, then solder heat shrink.
your go through the process and you should only need to do it once, i am sure rma like everyone else (me too) have had to make changes after reviewing our work this is the wire nut stage.. i got mine running and revving before i soldered anything..
and yea theres all kinds of way you can do it i guess.
o on the vss signal.. don't sweat thinking of a way to trick the ecu, no need to.
i removed every single wire to do with the auto trans.. no issues.. you may get a MIL but
nothing that will hinder the engines operation.
if you look over the diagram there is really only a few inputs to the ecu from the trans, i think they are the two speed sensors for the trans, input and output.. you can trace the wires for the vss and they don't even go into the ecu.
i removed every single wire to do with the auto trans.. no issues.. you may get a MIL but
nothing that will hinder the engines operation.
if you look over the diagram there is really only a few inputs to the ecu from the trans, i think they are the two speed sensors for the trans, input and output.. you can trace the wires for the vss and they don't even go into the ecu.
The Mil light is a big deal here in cali we need to have that thing go off .
so i read about a guy in southern califonia that did a 2uz swap with 5 speed into his 1st gen 4runner , he used resisitors to trick the ecu it had the trans solenoids .. or something like that , but it worked he passed ref.