Spent a few hours the past couple days reviewing the conversion wiring diagrams for the 93 and 99 4runner, comparing against what my wiring guy provided, and bouncing lots of questions off a couple great guys (JasonYota and Sas954unner).

Here's what I've found and changed so far.

1. Reversed the starter trigger wiring I was told to do which was to hard-wire the trigger wire into the B-W in the fuse box (see pic in post #14). I've decided to follow what most folks seem to be doing and solder the trigger wire into the wire that connects IH1 pin 22 and E14 pin 7. When I took a look at IH1 pin 22 in my harness there was no pin/wire at all. Anyone happen to know the toyota part # for a pin that size??? Also when I looked at E14 pin 7 only a 3" section of wire was connected to the pin. I'm thinking this is why I could get spark for a second or two but the ECU wasn't reading a signal so it was shutting the system down.

2. Disconnected IH1 pin 7 and IH2 pin 8 for the AC fix. IH2 pin 15 was correctly wired from II3 pin 25 for the AC clutch.

3. The "V" wire for IH1 pin 9 had become seperated from the pin so I used the pin from one of the AC pins I removed and soldered a new connection.

4. IH1 pin 10 was properly connected to E14 pin 1, but I also had to solder E14 pin 2 into the wire for IH1 pin 10.

5. Disconnected IH2 pin 2 for ADD since I've swapped to manual hubs

Here are a few questions I came up with that I'm hoping someone might be able to help me answer.

1. IH1 pin 6: I currently have "L" wire into this pin although on the pinout chart my wiring guy provided he noted "not used". It seems the "L" wire matches the original color for that pin from the 3.0 harness and I am using the 3.0 COR. What, if anything, should be connected to this pin and why?

2. IH2 pin 5: Similar question as above. I've got a "L" wire in this pin but it's cut off 3" after the pin. This wire was not noted on my conversion chart, but per Sas954unn'ers post "this wire gets power when the EFI relay make contact I have this wired to (D7-16) this is my diagnostic port and this particular port supplies the +12v to the code scanner while its running a diagnostic". Sounds like he's using this to power the OBDII if I understand correctly. If that's the case, I have powered my OBDII via E14 pin 1 so maybe I don't need this pin??

3. IH2 pin 11: Currently this pin has a 3" section of the original Y-L for the oil pressure sender to the gauge. I installed the 3.0 sender and the plug on the 3.4 harness matched up perfectly. Unfortunately I cannot find the L-G wire from II3 pin 22 anywhere.... I'll keep looking.

I've got a few other things I'm working through such as the 4x4, backup indictors, etc. but trying to focus on getting this thing running!!

Thanks as always!!

 

IH1-6 is a wire that is tied inline with the fuel pump and goes to a diagnostic on the 3vz.
Basically if the car won't start you can check that wire to make sure your fuel pump is getting power I opted to not hook this wire up because I couldn't find a use for it.


If you need a single pin pm me your address and ill send you one or two in an envelope
I'm not using add,abs,cruise or a/c so I've got quite a few pińs left that I unpinned from my conversion harness

 

Who did your wiring if you don't mind me asking?

 

Thanks for the feedback on IH1 pin 6. I'll leave as is for and see how things go once I get the starter circuit connected.

I think I'm going to cut out a 6" section of the IH1 pin 14 wire with pin to take it into the toyota dealership to match. It sounds like they have a bunch of different pins in a drawer and I need to have the same one to match. If that doesn't work I'll definitely hit you up for one of the larger pins that came off IH1 if you have an extra.

Thanks again!

 

Mussy,

I had a similar issue but mine would start then die immediately, just like it was being shut off.

Since I haven't written it up on my thread I'll give you a run-down on what I did:
All I wanted to do was get the engine running, I didn't care about the gauges or A/C or anything at first because I just wanted to see it run so I did the following.
1991 Toyota Pickup getting a 1997 Auto 4Runner 3.4 wiring harness and 1998 Manual ECU:

1) Ran the Batt wire (power) wire to ECU, it came from C1 #10 (B-G) on mine (similar to your IH1 but quite possibly not exact) and went to the D #14 (B-W) on my 1998 manual ECU.
2) Hooked up the starter wire so the ECU knows the starter is triggered. I pulled the C1 #22 (B) and ran in to D #11 on the 1998 ECU. Plus I added the wire that goes down to the starter for this.
3) EFI (COR) Relay - I pulled C1 #16 and pinned it to II3 #16 - I also added a wire per the COR instructions here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...-101-a-239002/ - I am using the 3.0 COR.
4) EFI - I pulled C1 #23 and pinned it to II3 #26
5) +B (Igniter + Fuel Injectors) from ... ˟˟˟˟ my notes don't say where but I plugged it to II3 #8

After these 5 were done the truck started! Well, it started then died right away but I figured out I had some igniter pins plugged wrong, fixed that and THEN it started!

So, if I were you, I'd go through and make sure you have the right power and signal wires to the ECU so it'll run and don't worry about the other wires for now. The best write-up (the one I followed) is here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...l#post50696256

P.S. I suspect you have a problem in your wiring to the COR because I don't think the fuel pump is running. If it was you'd probably have the 4runner start then die like mine was doing.

Good luck!
Tony

 

Hi Tony,

Thanks alot for your feedback and glad to hear you're swap has been running well.

I have the BATT wire on my E14 ECU connector pin 1 connected to IH1 pin 10. I also have my E14 pin 2 "IGSW" connected to that wire as well as the power to my OBDII.

I will be doing exactly what you mentioned for the starter wires tonight. I was able to get a pin from my toyota dealer to match my IH1 pin 22 STA terminal for free.

I reviewed my wiring for the COR against the swap 101 thread and it looks like I've got it correct. My E14 pin 3 "FC" is connected to IH1 pin 23 "FC". Were there any other wires that need to be disconnected from the ECU connectors in order to get this to work correctly?

Any chance you could send me your 3.4 overall ewd you used so I can take a look at what your II3 pin 26 is? I'm a bit confused on the #4 point you mentioned.

I've got B+ on my E14 pin 16 (W-L wire) connected to IH1 pin 16 "IG1". My II3 pin 8 is connected to E14 pin pin 2 "IG2". Do you see a concern with these connnections?

Thanks again for your help!!

 

SHE'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Can't tell you how encouraging it was to get the starter circuit wired up and turn the key to hear the engine roar to life. Going to saver that moment!!

Plugged the OBDII in to pull codes after I shut it down and turned the ignition to on but I'm still reading "no codes". The CEL is on in the dash though. I let the engine run for about 10 seconds initially before shutting it down. Would I need to run longer than that to register codes?

To-do list continues:
- Continue to work out remaining wiring connections
- Clean up harness and protect through firewall
- Remove broken exhaust stud bolts and install cross-over pipe
- Bleed clutch and brakes
- Adapt throttle cable
- Reinstall timing cover
- Drive to get exhaust system built
- Get an alignment
- Complete ADD defeat inside front diff
- Put interior back together
- Pass CO emissions and register
- Take family into the frickin mountains!!

Thanks again for all your help in getting me this far!! Learned a ton in the last week!

 

Went out and let her run for a bit longer (30 seconds or so) and was able to pull one code.

P0450 - Evap Emissions Control System

Went and tighened the gas cap, erased the codes, re-ran the engine, code cleared. Suprisingly though there are no other codes. I do not have the O2 sensors plugged in (no exhaust) so I would have assumed this would generate a code but I think there is some info on cycles I need to better understand.

Also, she was idling a bit below 1000 RPMS. I have completed the tach mod so I'm assuming that reading is pretty accurate but I'll hook my buddy's diagnostic reader to it later this week.

 

Starting to put together what I'll need for the exhaust system to be built. Since my 3.4 came from a 2001 4runner with the newer style exhaust manifolds and crossover pipe, I'm planning to stick with the stock crossover and have a shop build everything back from that point.

Although the engine is from an 01, my ECU and harness are from a 99 4Runner. The 1999 ECU part # I'm using is from a federal emissions vehicle, although I'm not quite sure what difference that is going to make in the exhaust system. If I understand correctly, the 1999 is going to require an A/F sensor pre-cat, two cat's, and an 02 sensor on the back-end. I'm also using the 99 style evap system as opposed to the newer one that came with the 2001.

Assuming my exhaust system needs to be built to accomodate the 1999 system here is what I'm thinking for components:

Stock crossover - 2.25" pipe
(1) A/F sensor (pre-cat): Denso # 2349002 or 2349003 $115 (Rockauto)
(1) O2 sensor (post-cat): Denso # 2344162 $47 (Rockauto)
(1) Universal 2.5" Catalytic converters
(1) 2.5" Flowmaster/Magnalow/Other muffler

Shop to provide bungs for sensors, hangers, 2.5" pipe, tip, misc hardware.

Can anyone confirm my theory on building to the 99 exhaust requirements? I do have emissions requirements in the Colorado county it will be registered in. Planning to go through emissions without declaring the swap the first time and see if I can get through.
Does anyone have specific part #'s they've ordered for the A/F sensor, O2 sensor, gaskets and nuts?
Any recommendations on why to stick with stock pipe size of 2.25" vs. step up to 2.5" with a non-supercharged 3.4?
Any recommendations on universal cat's or a muffler? Not looking for anything loud but a bit of tone wouldn't be bad.

Thanks again for any thoughts you might have on exhaust!

 

Congadulations on getting her running!!
If you take the 3vz throttle plate you can bend it and mount it backwards to work on the 5vz ill supply you a picture of that
Also I have very bad news for you, the only way to route the exhaust after then engine is in with the original crossover pipe is to route it from there underneath the tranny which will leave it extremely vulnerable to being crushed :/

 

Also the only vehicles that came with an a/f ratio sensor were California smog compliant
All others had an o2 before and after the cat
Which on goes where I'm not sure however I'd imagine the o2 plug with the longer leads is most likely the one for post catalytic readings

 

Interesting. I thought I had read that all 99 and newer 3.4's had the A/F sensor pre-cat. It was also confusing to me in that the 99 EWD I've been using shows wiring for both an A/F as well as two banks of O2 sensors. Maybe I missed a california emissions only disignator on the EWD for the A/F sensor. It would be nice to avoid the extra cost of an A/F sensor. I'll double check the two plugs on my harness to make sure the wiring corresponds to the two O2 sensors.

On the exhaust routing, I was thinking the pipe would crossover under the bellhousing but above the driveshaft essentially acting as a shield. I'm not fully committed to the original crossover so maybe I'll talk to the exhaust guy about using the flanges from the crossover and building a customer crossover. Man I wish I could weld!!

Another random question for you, when you get a chance do you mind checking the following pins on your ECU connectors to see if the pins/wires are actually in the port? I believe we're both working off a 99 harness but my harness did not have these wires although they are on the EWD.

E10 pin 8 - E05 "BR" color
E10 pin 21 - AF1- "B" color
E14 pin 12 - EOM - "W-B" color

I think the E10 pin is related to the A/F sensor so I'm wondering if that answers my question as to whether or not my harness is for two O2 sensors or not.

Also that pic of the throttle bracket would be great. I unfortunately sold my 3.0 with intake and all but shouldn't be too hard to find one if that's a great fix.

Thanks again!

 

When you look at diagrams be careful to note things that say *5 or *6
That's what the ewd says to specify for one o2 and for the a/f
It says the California version has one o2 an one a/f
Whereas all others had 2 o2 sensors

 

Welding Is easy brother it's just a matter of buying a welder and spending some time practicing your beads, remember every master welder had their first day!
Nobody came out of the womb with a welder in hand!

 

Glad you got it running Eric!
The swap isn't extremely difficult but if your going behind somebody that messed it up there's no telling what they done lol

 

 

Okay so it's only on there with one bolt...I know it's not the best setup that's why I put loc-tite red on the bolt. I'm gonna figure something better out but for now it works!