Good to know thanks for the clarification.

 

I haven't had a chance to start getting a meter on connections yet but have a couple questions on how to prioritize my search.

- When trying to fire earlier I didn't have any of the plugs for the tranny, tcase or O2 sensors plugged in. I'm assuming this wouldn't keep me from firing but maybe that's incorrect.
- If the MAF meter isn't reading would that keep the engine from firing or would it fire but run poorly?
- Do I need to sand away the paint at the connection to the wheel well/engine bay where the ignitor is bolted?


Thanks for any feedback you might have!

 

I do not think that the tranny wiring would prohibit the motor from firing up.

Possibly. not sure honestly. i know that a lot of guys that have fire and than instant die trace it back to the MAF being defective, or the wiring loose or not making any contact in the plug at the MAF.

Absolutely. The ignitor has no ground in it. it picks up its ground from the metal that gets bolted to the body. thus, make sure that when you run your grounds from the battery you have a large cable the motor (most power draw), then a similarly large cable from the motor to the frame, and most people will tell you to have a good ground cable from the motor to the firewall since most of the interior electronics get their grounds from somewhere off the interior of the firewall. This would be ample for the inner fender mounted ignitor as well. This may very well be your issue if you are not bolted to clean metal.

 

So my original 3.0 throttle cable was thrashed at the firewall mount so I decided to bolt up the 3.4 cable. Also, during the course of the swap I changed the 01 drive by wire throttle body out for a mechanical one from a 99. I'm thinking the cables between those two models had a different length from the mounting bracket to the end of the cable because my setup appears to be a bit short. Planning on taking measurements tonight and posting them, but can anyone confirm or deny that?

I've read of the 3.0 cable working well but I'd prefer to avoid buying a 3.0 cable if I can since my 3.4 cable is in good condition. Any other recommendations on making the 3.4 cable work with modification to either the cable itself or the mounting bracket next to the throttle body?

THank you!

 

Do you guys know of any reason why a MAF sensor from a 2001 4runner would not work with a 99 4Runner ECU/harness?

The guy I've got helping me with troubleshooting (not a Toyota guy) was wondering if that might not be the same although the 99 harness connector plugs into the 01 sensor port. I've got the OBDII port correctly wired in now, but his diagnostic scanner wasn't pulling codes. He thought it was probably because his tool was too generic so he's going to look for a Toyota software update.

Just looking to knock items off the list in the meantime.

Thank yoU!

 

You can use a newer maf but you need to repin the connector. Google it, theres a write up for that.

Im not sure how accurate that is about the ignitor. It does have its own ground. Its the brown wire in the connector and it grounds at the intake manifold on driver side
Or atleast thats what it shows on the 5vz ecu ewd

 

[QUOTE=vital22re;52076105]You can use a newer maf but you need to repin the connector. Google it, theres a write up for that.


Thanks for pointing me in the MAF re-pin direction. Found some good info and between the EDW's I should be able to get them aligned. Now....

Any tips on unlocking the MAF connector? I've be trying to disengage the locking mechanism but I'm not looking to break this connector either. Is it internal to the connecto or on the outside ends?

Thanks

 

Got the MAF harness connector re-pinned to the 01 MAF sensor plug wiring, but still not running...

I was really hoping that was the ticket. The search continues.

THanks for your help!

 

what are you missing? fuel or spark? To check for spark, pull a plug wire on the driver side and use a spare plug. Hold the metal part of the plug to solid metal part on block/heads for a good ground and crank it. If you've got spark, have someone crank it over while you give it some starting fluid. If it'll sputter and run than you know its fuel.

If its a fuel issue, you'll need to figure out if its at the pump or at the injectors.

 

Well I have tested for spark by doing exactly what you mentioned and I did have a good spark. For fuel, I can hear the pump prime before I crank it and I pulled the fuel return line and fuel did come out of the line. I know that's not the most definitive test for fuel pressure, etc.

I've checked the timing and it looks spot on. I'm wondering if there is a similar wiring issue with the ignitor between my 2001 ignitor and the 1999 harness. I'm going to give that a check as well.

I've got the OBDII wired up and hoping to pull codes within the next couple days.

Thanks again!

 

So I've had a chance to put two different scan tools on the OBDII port and both read "no codes". The first tool was a diagnostic tool that did read 26 generic data streams but did not pull any codes. I reset the ECU a couple times in the process but each time no codes were returned.

I've verified the 2 grounds, batt wire for power, and signal wire are all in the correct locations.

I'd like some help trying to brainstorm why I wouldn't be getting any codes when there are a few things that should definitely be causing errors (tranny plugs not in, o2 sensors not in).

Any thoughts?

Thanks all!

 

Well codes are rarely (almost never or actually never, I'm not sure) set without the engine running so it won't be particularly helpful.

My concern is that you checked for fuel pressure but not whether the fuel injectors are firing. Do you have access to a noid light? That is probably the easiest way to check to see if the injectors are getting a signal to fire during cranking. That would be my next step.

Good luck,
Tony

 

So just a recap here, you've got got spark. But assuming no fuel correct? If you spray starter fluid in it will it run for a short while?

 

Hi guys,

Thanks for your feedback. I actually haven't checked for fuel pressure yet, just the existence of fuel in the system based on fuel coming out of the return line. I've got a couple items, such as checking the injectors, that a friend with more tools than myself is going to hopefully bring over this week.

I have checked spark at the front right cylinder by pulling a plug, grounding against the intake, and cranking. I've checked to make sure that all vacuum ports are properly plugged or hoses routed. I've double checked the timing belt.

So I decided to double check the wiring at the 4 ECU plugs, althoug I admit this is not my area, which is why I hired it out. The ECU and harness are from a 1999 4Runner and I have verified that through the Toyota part numbers. I've attached the EWD I'm using as a reference and the recon I did between what the diagram says and the color wires I see in those pins. Please note I have not yet checked voltage or signals on any of the sensors on the harness. It appears a couple of the connectors are missing grounds (E10 and E14). Also, I'm not sure if or how concerned I should be that there are several extra wires on connector E12 that are not shown on the EWD and those pins are identified as black dots on the connector picture.

If anyone has time to take a look at the attached files that would be awesome.

Thanks!!

 

Gave it a shot of starting fluid last night to see if it would even fire, but no luck.

Couple other wiring related thoughts/questions:

1. Security transponder.... so the ECU connector for these wires was cut off therefore not plugged into the ECU. Event though the security key/transponder is not being used in my 93 ignition system, will the computer not getting any signal not allow it to run?

2. There were two missing wires on the E10 connector. The first is the E05 ground and the second is the AF1- that goes to the air fuel ratio sensor. What would the ramifications of these wires missing be? Other sensors wired into this connector are the MAF and crankshaft positioning sensor. Not sure how the E05 ground might affect these sensors.

3. There is one wire missing on the E14 connector, the black wire for EOM that goes to what appears to be a junction connector but I'm not clear on what this one is doing. Same question on consequences of not having this wire in the required pin?

Will be checking the injectors and sensors hopefully tomorrow.

THanks guys!

 

As I continue to work through the starting troubleshoot list, I thought I'd try to buttom up the back end of the harness (tranny, tcase, O2 sensors).

I'm curious if any of you that have completed the swap have pics of how you routed your harness down the driver side of the engine, around the the exhaust manifold, and out the back?

Thanks for any suggestions you might be able to offer!

 

I purchased some heat resistance sleeving and put the entire wiring harness into that then worked it way down by the exhaust but as far as I could keep it with clips or zip ties.

 

Can I assume you ran the harness below the driverside exhaust manifold and then below the crossover pipe? Thanks for the recommendation on the heat resistance sleeving. Looks like a portion of the harness came from the factory with it, but I'll have to make sure I use additional in the right spots.

Thanks for your feedback!

 

So I had initially checked spark by pulling a wire, attaching a plug, grounding it against the intake manifold and cranking. At the time I saw spark but I must not have had my wife crank long enough to ensure I had continued spark. I had a friend come over with the device that connects to the plug wire and allows you to view the spark while cranking. This time it sparked initially but then did not continue to spark. Definitely open to thoughts on what maybe causing that?? Something in the ECU shutting the system down?

After the spark test I pulled the negative battery cables, disconnected the airbox tube, unplugged an injector harness connector, inserted a noid light, then attempted to reconnect the negative battery cables. Instantly when I touched the cable to the terminal my dealer installed security system started going off. This is a new issue.... I unplugged the security control box from underneath the driver seat, but then the engine wouldn't even crank.

So I've got new concerns on what this security system is doing along with an ECU that had a plug for a security transponder on the 99 which has been cut out of the harness.....

Any ideas on this mess??

Thanks guys

 

I completely removed the dealer upgraded security system today. I can now crank with the system removed.

The main symptoms at this point are...

- Spark for 2 seconds then no more spare
- Noid light on the injector plugs blinks seconds then no more

So those two symptoms seem to be pointing to the same thing but not quite sure what. I'm currently using a 99 4Runner harness and ECU. I also have a 2000 4Runner MT 4x4 ECU with the same connectors as the 99. I'm going to compare the plug pinouts to see if I need to make any changes to test the 2000 ECU.

Any other recommendations on what might be causig the shutdown after temporary spark?

Thank you!