Hi all,

Working to wrap up my swap and I'd like to use this thread to locate my last questions instead of creating individual threads.

I bit of background... I've installed a 2001 4Runner 3.4 with an auto transmission into my 93 4Runner with a manual transmission. I was planning on repinning the auto harness but ended up getting help from a Denver guy (Cliff Cozier) on the wiring and we sourced a MT harness. I've also gone with a pre 01 evap system and throttle body. The engine is in the truck and I've done all the prework (moving battery, evap mounting, fuel line flip, etc.). I'm waiting on the older throttle body to arrive and then I'll be one to buttoning up and hopefully turning the key soon.

So my first question. The 93 alternator harness had a very small ground coming out of it. What do you guys normally do with this? Upgrade and location of the mounting (ie. body only)?

The second question is on the two hose ports on the rear of the engine shown in the pics below. The first pic shows a black hose port kind of between the fuel rail and lower intake. The second pic is right behind the lower intake. Apparently I failed to take good enough pics during the removal stage.


Thanks guys!

 

Not the best/clearest pictures, but these were from my disassembly, but the port in your second picture should go to the middle tube bolted to the top of the intake (labeled "2" in my picture). Keep in mind that this was for a 96/97 4Runner so it may be a little different than yours.



And I'm not really sure what the port in the first picture is for, I can't find a similar picture of mine.

 

Thanks for the pic! My upper intake is a bit different. Where does the other end of your #2 line go? Into the airbox?

I think the black port in my first picture goes to a hose that connects to the throttle body. See attached pic. Hopefully that makes sense with your setup as well.

 

That U shaped hose right in the foreground in the other end of it and it plugs into the intake between the MAF and the throttle body.

That black port probably is for a coolant line to the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) on the throttle body.

 

So does the #2 line in your picture connect to a different size hose port on each end? My upper intake does not have the hard line in your pic and the hose port on the engine is larger than the one under the throttle body.

Also, what I'm assuming is #3 in your first pic (smaller tube and hardline on the upper intake) is that elbow you used closed off on the open end?

Thanks!

 

So the small #3 vacuum hose is just a true vacuum hose, from the intake manifold to a T fitting with one end going to the throttle body, and the other end of the T fitting (un-connected in that picture) goes to the vacuum tank in the passenger fenderwell for the ADD system.

As for the #2 hard line on top of the manifold, it looks like it should use the same size hose on both ends. I'm not sure how your's needs to be routed, but for mine its a vent of sorts from the driver side head to the intake (before the throttle body) to burn off any gas/oil vapors from the crank case.

 

This might be helpful, its the parts diagram from Toyota Parts East for a 2001 4Runner, click on the "More Info" button to get a diagram of the hose that I'm thinking of. Its labeled "12262" but if you don't have the hard line on your intake, I'm not sure what to do.

http://www.toyomotorparts.com/compon...-01-11836.html

I would look through there (it can be a pain) looking at the various diagrams to see the exploded view of everything.
http://www.toyomotorparts.com/sectio...rts-11836.html

 

So I'm thinking that if I'm no longer going to use the ADD system on the 93 then I don't need to the T and can just go straight from the hardline into the intake, then cap the ADD vacuum ports?

Thanks for the link to the diagrams. I'll spend some time with those which should hopefully get things squared away.

 

So I've got a wire with a sensor and a ground coming out of the 3.0 alternator harness. What shall I do with this guy? The sensor part # says it's a radio condenser.... but that seems a bit strange. Does this get grounded on the body and the negative battery terminal? Cut it out?

Pic of sensor...




Pic of other connections...

 

You don't have to do anything with that. Mine dangled for months. I finally put it under a screw in the fender for looks.

 

Thanks for confirming man!! Appreciate the quick response. Back to the garage for me

 

Well... turned the key tonight. Plenty of cranking but no firing or turning over. Before fulling cranking I get a sound of two clicks, then nothing before fully turning key. I've got a brand new Optima battery. Both ground points on the body were sanded down to bare metal. I ran my starter wire into the B/W in the fuse box.

Anyone have a good checklist of where to go from here? The fuel tank is about half fuel but what's a good way to confirm I'm getting pressurized fuel to the engine? Also, will pull the plugs tomorrow and inspect then crank while viewing them.

One other idea is that I had an oversite on the size lugs I used when I extended the power supply from the fuse box and the power to the starter so they were too small for the main post on the positive terminal. Temporarily, I attached the lugs to the back end tightening bolt. I assume since I got cranking power this wouldn't be the problem but maybe that's a poor assumption.

Any other recommendations right out the gate?

Thanks!!

 

Onto checking spark....

 

Well I've got good spark at the plugs. Got a couple pops when testing the spark and cranking but still not turning over.

I've checked all the connectors on the engine and MAF are firmly connected. My grounds are all good. Like I mentioned earlier, I tied the starter trigger wire directly into the B/W wire in the fuse box (pic below).

Where to go next?

Thanks for any help you can provide!!

 

Pretty positive my timing belt is off. And while trying to get the timing cover off I let a bit of coolant leak behind the cover down onto the idler pulley and timing belt. Looks like I'll be going through the complete exercise as if I was replacing the belt so I can get access enough to remove, clean and readjust the belt.

 

Here are a list of things I've double checked so far, but I'm hoping you can give your thoughts on other things to check as well.

- Ground from negative battery terminal to engine block, engine block to firewall, and body to negative battery terminal are all to bare paint and secure
- Getting fuel. Haven't checked pressure but fuel pump was good when it was last running and fuel came out of fuel return line
- Getting spark at the plugs
- Timing on looks good. Checked compression on no. 1 cylinder and alignment at TDC on camshaft puleys and crankshaft
- Had the airbox hooked up and all the vaccum ports connected or plugged
- Double checked all wire harness connectors were securely fastened

We're going to start checking signals at the sensors especially at the MAF, crank and camshaft sensors.

Any other recommendations?

Thank you!

 

eh not so true. Its a noise isolater for the alternator. The small loop and the "chip" gets bolted to the fender and the big loop bolts to the side of the intake.

 

Did you install that bushing back on your fuel rail that is laying there? I would imaging that you have a bit of a leak....

 

Thanks for the feedback. I will get that bolted up and figure out what it's real purpose is at some point.

THank you!

 

Wow! Looked at that pic a few times and did not notice that. I'm not getting a leak at the banjo bolt but I'll get that back on to ensure a good seat at the union.

Thank you!