For the URD O2 simulator there still needs to be a working rear O2 sensor in place for it to work. Not sure about the home made simulator Jason made though.

 

I don't know much about the URD setup, but the Jason setup bypasses the signal side of the O2 sensor, putting the signal at the correct waveform full time.

If the URD setup just plugs in, maybe it needs the O2 sensor to be working as it modifies the signal on the way back to the ECM? Just guessing.

 

So it completey bypasses the O2 sensor signal wires? Are they just terminated and taped up then?

I don't know a lot about it either, like you said "could be voodoo magic for all I know". Electron flow is not my specialty LOL.

 

Correct. The two signal wires from the O2 are terminated at the O2 side. The "JasonBox" ties into the wires coming from the ECM that once went to the O2. The 2 wires from the ECM to O2 heater control circuit remain unmolested.

Taped up.... dang it, new I forgot something.

As long as it keeps working, I'll keep up the sacrifices.






Note: Sacrifices are most likely unnecessary to keep the "JasonBox" working.

 

did you install a body lift? or did you mod your hood? i am thinking about the hood mod but i havnt made up my mind yet.

 

No body lift... just cut the hood. There is a pic of it on this thread somewhere, but I'll post it again.



I had to enlarge it slightly from this picture. Engine torque and such on the trail. Will most likely cover the hole soon with a hood scoop of some sort.

 

Awesome thread!!! This is exactly what I was thinking of doing eventually. Great job on the detailed blow by blow write-up and photos! So how long did this entire project take you? And I can kinda tell why you had to cut the hood, what exactly is that thing that is sitting right under that hole in the hood?

 

That's the front driver's side corner of the 3.4 intake plenum. I had to do the same thing to my hood when I swapped.

 

Thanks for the compliments. Once I got the wiring put back together, about 2 weeks. I am still really liking this 3.4. Well worth the time and money.

Breknraj knows...

 

I just spent an hour reading through your post. I was so stoked to hear it fired lol. felt like i was watchin some reality show. and im considering doing it myself now. i have 2 cylinders out on my 3.slow so we'll see. i just have to locate a 3.4. I really dont have any expierence pulling motors but ill learn i gues... lol. but i was wondering what was your total at the end of the project?

 

Total... as in cost wise. I was able to sell the 3.0 and related accessories after my swap which took about $850 off the price. My 3.0 was in great shape with lots of newer parts and recent maintenance. Could have probably gotten more... but was glad to get some space back in my garage.

I got the 3.4 with accessories for around $1200. I added headers, timing belt, spark plugs, wires, clutch... various bits and pieces for $1200 more (give or take). Wiring was next to nothing as I did it myself, as well as all labor besides turning of the flywheel.

I know I forgot some costs, but I'll say when it's all said and done I was at or under $1600 out of pocket for the swap. The key will be your donor motor price and how much you have to get from ORS. If you can handle all the labor and wiring... it's a fairly cost effective way to go for a huge upgrade in performance. If you can't, your budget should be closer to $5000.

Keep in mind, I am a bicycle mechanic with almost zero electrical experience before I started this project. If I can do it... so can most.

Seeing that I spent close to $1300 on just the SAS kit... I considered the swap a bargain.

 

i'll be cutting alot more than that the first gen hood is not raised as much as that bummer its still going in just need a hood scoop!

 

I don't know much about the 1st Gens, but you might be surprised as how much is gained by cutting out the crossbracing. Perhaps the hood profile is just to flat though.

I am looking for a scoop as well. Let me know what you find.

 

thought I'd try my hand at fiberglassing first but if thats no good i like the 99-04 Ford Mustang F150 factory Roush hood scoop see it here but it is like 150$ so i don't know about spending that kind of money, i can't believe ORS hasn't added it to the kit lol they could charge $500 more lol. If we can make a cross over pipe we can make a hood scoop!

 

Look at this cheap sucka :

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RAV4-...1998QQtcZphoto

This one also looks like it might work:

http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Ventshade...196902&sr=1-17

Or maybe one of these....:

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...52524_-1_10355

Bit more spendy:

http://www.fiberglass-hoods.com/hood-scoops.shtml

I have been looking for a while. Not sure which way to go.

 

Here is a thread with a bunch of discussion and some other links to options. Some of the links are probably dead by now though. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/s...-scoop-103436/
Also one more if you're made out of money: http://www.church-steeples.com/auto.htm

 

Where can I find the info on where to splice the jasonbox into the truck? I am building one but I am not quite sure where I should be looking and what I am looking for to splice into. I have a 98 4runner with 3.4.

 

Everything I know is listed starting on post #250 of this thread (page 10).

Just have to splice the box in somewhere between the ECM and the secondary O2 sensor. I chose under the hood as it was offered some protection from the elements there.

 

I spliced in at the back of the ECU.

 

Elvota, I'm finishing up details like routing stuff today, and remembered you used a Marlin brake line for your clutch. I hooked up the stock line with the ORS bracket today, and I think I like your way better. What was the original applilcation for this line from Marlin?