Elvota's 3.4 swap
#201
All right... more results. Betting you are all just chomping at the bit, anxiously waiting to get my 4Runner running again.
The B-Y wire from the ignitor to the ECM checks out good. No breaks. So, IGf signal from the igniter can reach the ECM.
Then I tried this test from the FSM 111db posted up:
"Disconnect Black 10-pin ignitor connector. Access ECM behind glove box. Turn ignition on. On M/T models, measure voltage between ground and terminal No.17 (B-Y wire) on the ECM. On all models, if voltage is 4.5-5.5 volts, replace ignitor. If voltage is not between 4.5-5.5 volts, replace ECM and retest."
There is no real way for me to access terminal No.17 (B-Y wire) on my ECM from behind the glovebox. Maybe on a '96, but not on my '90. However, since No.17 from the ECM is the B-Y wire leading to the ignitor plug, I concluded that I could perform the same test by checking how many volts there were between the B-Y pin and ground pin on the igniter plug with the ignition switch on.
If everyone agrees that this is a valid version of the FSM test, with my result of 5.0 volts, I need to replace the ignitor.
Does anyone think my results would be different if I actually connected to terminal No.17 (B-Y wire) at the ECM? Do volts drop from the ECM to ignitor plug at such a level that my test would be wrong? Even if they do drop somewhat, since I tested 5.0v... seems like I am right in the middle of the range, and need to replace the ignitor.
I'll except everyone's answer to these questions as unbyased except Willcipher's... as he stands to make $30, and maybe even gain a 6-Pack.
Although Will, I'd still very much like to hear your opinion on my testing process, results and conclusion. Would be worth the extra money to turn my 4Runner back from a lawn ornament to a trail worthy rig.
The B-Y wire from the ignitor to the ECM checks out good. No breaks. So, IGf signal from the igniter can reach the ECM.
Then I tried this test from the FSM 111db posted up:
"Disconnect Black 10-pin ignitor connector. Access ECM behind glove box. Turn ignition on. On M/T models, measure voltage between ground and terminal No.17 (B-Y wire) on the ECM. On all models, if voltage is 4.5-5.5 volts, replace ignitor. If voltage is not between 4.5-5.5 volts, replace ECM and retest."
There is no real way for me to access terminal No.17 (B-Y wire) on my ECM from behind the glovebox. Maybe on a '96, but not on my '90. However, since No.17 from the ECM is the B-Y wire leading to the ignitor plug, I concluded that I could perform the same test by checking how many volts there were between the B-Y pin and ground pin on the igniter plug with the ignition switch on.
If everyone agrees that this is a valid version of the FSM test, with my result of 5.0 volts, I need to replace the ignitor.
Does anyone think my results would be different if I actually connected to terminal No.17 (B-Y wire) at the ECM? Do volts drop from the ECM to ignitor plug at such a level that my test would be wrong? Even if they do drop somewhat, since I tested 5.0v... seems like I am right in the middle of the range, and need to replace the ignitor.
I'll except everyone's answer to these questions as unbyased except Willcipher's... as he stands to make $30, and maybe even gain a 6-Pack.
Although Will, I'd still very much like to hear your opinion on my testing process, results and conclusion. Would be worth the extra money to turn my 4Runner back from a lawn ornament to a trail worthy rig.
#202
#203
All right... more results. Betting you are all just chomping at the bit, anxiously waiting to get my 4Runner running again.
The B-Y wire from the ignitor to the ECM checks out good. No breaks. So, IGf signal from the igniter can reach the ECM.
Then I tried this test from the FSM 111db posted up:
"Disconnect Black 10-pin ignitor connector. Access ECM behind glove box. Turn ignition on. On M/T models, measure voltage between ground and terminal No.17 (B-Y wire) on the ECM. On all models, if voltage is 4.5-5.5 volts, replace ignitor. If voltage is not between 4.5-5.5 volts, replace ECM and retest."
There is no real way for me to access terminal No.17 (B-Y wire) on my ECM from behind the glovebox. Maybe on a '96, but not on my '90. However, since No.17 from the ECM is the B-Y wire leading to the ignitor plug, I concluded that I could perform the same test by checking how many volts there were between the B-Y pin and ground pin on the igniter plug with the ignition switch on.
If everyone agrees that this is a valid version of the FSM test, with my result of 5.0 volts, I need to replace the ignitor.
Does anyone think my results would be different if I actually connected to terminal No.17 (B-Y wire) at the ECM? Do volts drop from the ECM to ignitor plug at such a level that my test would be wrong? Even if they do drop somewhat, since I tested 5.0v... seems like I am right in the middle of the range, and need to replace the ignitor.
I'll except everyone's answer to these questions as unbyased except Willcipher's... as he stands to make $30, and maybe even gain a 6-Pack.
Although Will, I'd still very much like to hear your opinion on my testing process, results and conclusion. Would be worth the extra money to turn my 4Runner back from a lawn ornament to a trail worthy rig.
The B-Y wire from the ignitor to the ECM checks out good. No breaks. So, IGf signal from the igniter can reach the ECM.
Then I tried this test from the FSM 111db posted up:
"Disconnect Black 10-pin ignitor connector. Access ECM behind glove box. Turn ignition on. On M/T models, measure voltage between ground and terminal No.17 (B-Y wire) on the ECM. On all models, if voltage is 4.5-5.5 volts, replace ignitor. If voltage is not between 4.5-5.5 volts, replace ECM and retest."
There is no real way for me to access terminal No.17 (B-Y wire) on my ECM from behind the glovebox. Maybe on a '96, but not on my '90. However, since No.17 from the ECM is the B-Y wire leading to the ignitor plug, I concluded that I could perform the same test by checking how many volts there were between the B-Y pin and ground pin on the igniter plug with the ignition switch on.
If everyone agrees that this is a valid version of the FSM test, with my result of 5.0 volts, I need to replace the ignitor.
Does anyone think my results would be different if I actually connected to terminal No.17 (B-Y wire) at the ECM? Do volts drop from the ECM to ignitor plug at such a level that my test would be wrong? Even if they do drop somewhat, since I tested 5.0v... seems like I am right in the middle of the range, and need to replace the ignitor.
I'll except everyone's answer to these questions as unbyased except Willcipher's... as he stands to make $30, and maybe even gain a 6-Pack.
Although Will, I'd still very much like to hear your opinion on my testing process, results and conclusion. Would be worth the extra money to turn my 4Runner back from a lawn ornament to a trail worthy rig.
You should have no observable voltage drop between the ECU and the igniter; therefore your test for voltage at the igniter should be valid.
As Bighead stated, the diagnostics section contains detailed info on testing individual components. Check it out when you get a chance.
Test everything between igniter and ECU before condemning either one. let me know if you need the igniter and I'll get it shipped out to you tomorrow.
Paypal is preferred- willcipher@yahoo.com
#204
I don't have the diagnostic sections of the FSM. Must have missed those when I was signed on to TIS.com. I may have to log back on and grab them.
111db, your previous post stated: "Check for spark at misfiring cylinder. See ignition checks in F - Basic Testing". I'd like to complete the tests in order, but I am not sure what the FSM is recommending to do in the first step.
If it is not to much trouble, could you post or PM me the procedure for "checking spark" as referred to in the FSM?
Thanks.
111db, your previous post stated: "Check for spark at misfiring cylinder. See ignition checks in F - Basic Testing". I'd like to complete the tests in order, but I am not sure what the FSM is recommending to do in the first step.
If it is not to much trouble, could you post or PM me the procedure for "checking spark" as referred to in the FSM?
Thanks.
#207
Thanks both Lance and Jon. Really appreciate it. Just glanced at the first few files and really think they are going to be a big help.
Especially if I have more issues going on than a possible bad ignitor.
Especially if I have more issues going on than a possible bad ignitor.
#208
Something tells me to doublecheck that code... maybe reset the ECU and see if you are getting the same thing? Nothing worse than troubleshooting in the wrong direction... not that you are... but just to be sure you aren't.
Back in the day of counting flashing engine lights (87 22RE after a rebuild), I spent two days chasing my tail only to find on day three there was a different code after I reset it... I had the only two interchangable connectors on the entire engine harness swapped. 2 minute fix at that point. uggh. I only share this because you are not alone in your frustration.
Back in the day of counting flashing engine lights (87 22RE after a rebuild), I spent two days chasing my tail only to find on day three there was a different code after I reset it... I had the only two interchangable connectors on the entire engine harness swapped. 2 minute fix at that point. uggh. I only share this because you are not alone in your frustration.
#209
Something tells me to doublecheck that code... maybe reset the ECU and see if you are getting the same thing? Nothing worse than troubleshooting in the wrong direction... not that you are... but just to be sure you aren't.
Back in the day of counting flashing engine lights (87 22RE after a rebuild), I spent two days chasing my tail only to find on day three there was a different code after I reset it... I had the only two interchangable connectors on the entire engine harness swapped. 2 minute fix at that point. uggh. I only share this because you are not alone in your frustration.
Back in the day of counting flashing engine lights (87 22RE after a rebuild), I spent two days chasing my tail only to find on day three there was a different code after I reset it... I had the only two interchangable connectors on the entire engine harness swapped. 2 minute fix at that point. uggh. I only share this because you are not alone in your frustration.
I also don't like that the code that shows up seems like it's right at the beginning of the ECM's cycle. I wish it was a little further along, so I at least new the ECM was working and some connections were correct. But I am not entirely clear of the diagnostic system... learning a bit more everyday.
I had disconnected the battery overnight before trying to start the motor several times... and then using the OBDII scanner came up with the P1300 code. But it would be easy enough to reset the ECM again and see if I get the same code.
To be honest, the possibility of a component being to blame with my truck seems more unlikely than the possibility that I have wired something incorrectly. Of course, I have to follow all possible leads at this point to solve the problem.
I'll do a few more tests and see if they also point to an ignitor issue. I also plan to get some type of OBDII interface to a laptop to try and get a better idea of what is actually going on.
Everyone please keep any ideas, tips or advice coming. I definitely find the input very helpful.
#214
Many times I have been out on my bike, or hiking with the dog and girlfriend with an impending storm closing in. Over the final ridge line I always see the 4Runner as a beacon of hope. A place to rest, get out of the weather and escape the dark. It's always so rewarding to turn that key and just drive away.
But never has a key turn been so rewarding as it was this evening.
My fellow YT hombres...
WE HAVE......... A RUNNING ELVOTA !!!!!!!!
And it was all from one hiding, cowardly, stinkin' no good lilly lovin' loose wire at the ignitor plug.
Actually, I was going through the FSM testing procedure I had so graciously been E-Mailed behind the scenes, starting to look for continuity. Suddenly, the IGC2 signal wire from the ECM to coil No.3 looked bad.
For those who don't know, the ignitor plug is a well sealed unit. A little rubber grommet at the entrance of each wire to the plug. Nothing more than the slightest tug and the troubled orange wire just slipped right out. To think, orange is even my favorite color.
Anyway, after struggling with the pin forever, I was finally able to reconnect this little so and so and turn the key to instant fire up. Coolest thing is the issue wasn't even something I did wrong or forgot to do. Very stoked, very stoked indeed.
Of course, I still have many loose ends to tie up and actually drive the thing on the road... then trail, but I feel really confident things will be good to go. I'll post details on my final wiring when I am sure things are done correctly.
Ton of thanks for all of the help. Really appreciate everyone's time and effort. I wouldn't have even given this a shot if I hadn't done so much research here first. Looks like Will was all over this.
For the locals, I am still not so sure if I will try Martinez. I need to get everything else on the vehicle done, and would like to get some actual driving miles before I hit the trails. But, we will see... we will see.
If not, I'll drive to your houses one by one so you can check it out. Will be a great excuse to drive this thing.
But never has a key turn been so rewarding as it was this evening.
My fellow YT hombres...
WE HAVE......... A RUNNING ELVOTA !!!!!!!!
And it was all from one hiding, cowardly, stinkin' no good lilly lovin' loose wire at the ignitor plug.
Actually, I was going through the FSM testing procedure I had so graciously been E-Mailed behind the scenes, starting to look for continuity. Suddenly, the IGC2 signal wire from the ECM to coil No.3 looked bad.
For those who don't know, the ignitor plug is a well sealed unit. A little rubber grommet at the entrance of each wire to the plug. Nothing more than the slightest tug and the troubled orange wire just slipped right out. To think, orange is even my favorite color.
Anyway, after struggling with the pin forever, I was finally able to reconnect this little so and so and turn the key to instant fire up. Coolest thing is the issue wasn't even something I did wrong or forgot to do. Very stoked, very stoked indeed.
Of course, I still have many loose ends to tie up and actually drive the thing on the road... then trail, but I feel really confident things will be good to go. I'll post details on my final wiring when I am sure things are done correctly.
Ton of thanks for all of the help. Really appreciate everyone's time and effort. I wouldn't have even given this a shot if I hadn't done so much research here first. Looks like Will was all over this.
For the locals, I am still not so sure if I will try Martinez. I need to get everything else on the vehicle done, and would like to get some actual driving miles before I hit the trails. But, we will see... we will see.
If not, I'll drive to your houses one by one so you can check it out. Will be a great excuse to drive this thing.
Last edited by Elvota; 08-13-2008 at 10:20 AM.
#220
Most definitely.
You said it brother.
Not sure if the first thing I want to try is a finesse move with all this new HP... but maybe I'd just jump right off the top. "Yellow Belly Launch"
You are gonna yank it out again? Man, I am so happy to have mine in and running I can't imagine. I do know what you mean about modding though. I already have a few more for myself in mind. Terrible disease this, just terrible.
Monday... way to early. Wednesday though for sure. You bring the 3.4, I'll do the rest.
You said it brother.
Monday... way to early. Wednesday though for sure. You bring the 3.4, I'll do the rest.