Howdy everyone, just wanted to start a new thread on my 3.4 swap. Got all the drive line crap pulled out yesterday and I am pulling my 3.0L engine today, perhaps even be able to bolt in the 3.4 tonight but that might be too optimistic.

Here are some of the specs of my swap:
Patient:
1991 Toyota 4x4 5spd longbed pickup dlx 3.0L
Donor:
1998 Toyota 4Runner 3.4L 5spd (Engine, ECU, all accessories)

I have some favors to ask. If anyone has any pictures of their 3.4 engine compartment could you send them to me (Email: mariogiacomino@gmail.com)? Hopefully swapped into a 1991 pickup but anything that will help me get all the hoses/wires setup properly. Also if anyone has any tips/tricks on performing the swap please let me know.

Any and all info is greatly appreciated,
Marge

 

There is a thread over at Pirate4x4 with lots of pictures:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...5&pagenumber=1

 

Thanks Pozi, checkin it out now.
Marge

 

Okay, so I just finished putting in the 5VZ. I haven't hooked up the drive train yet. I started it up. Everything seems great except for 2 problems. The first is a small fuel leak which I will get fixed soon. The second is the idle is really high ~1500 rpms. Is there any way to adjust the idle on this engine?
Thanks for any info,
Marge

 

Are you sure you adjusted the throttle cable right?

 

Make sure and check for a vacuum leak. That could cause your high idle problem.

 

Haha, well I fooled around with the throttle cable and it was that. The throttle cable seemed loose enough so I just assumed it was because I didn't have the 2nd O2 sensor in or something. I had to bend the brace that holds the throttle cable a bit and now it runs great. It sounds so nice. Much deeper throatier sound than the 3.0L.

 

Haha, well I fooled around with the throttle cable and it was that. The throttle cable seemed loose enough so I just assumed it was because I didn't have the 2nd O2 sensor in or something. I had to bend the brace that holds the throttle cable a bit and now it runs great. It sounds so nice. Much deeper throatier sound than the 3.0L. Oh and I fixed the fuel leak... but I am not going to trust it very long. Does anyone who has done the 3.4 swap recall (part numbers/names would be ideal) how they connected the 3.4 fuel intake tube to the original flared pipe end?

 

Also about the exhaust. I used the stock exhaust from the 3.0L with the ORS custom crossover. I had to cut a bit out of the 3.0L exhaust and weld a bend and the ORS flange in. Seems to work okay. However I am only using the single O2 sensor on the engine side (O2#1) of the CAT. Does anyone know what the muffler side (O2#2) O2 sensor is for? And if I don't have it installed will it cause me some problems?
Thanks,
Marge

 

Just a follow up to my last post. I am planning on going to an exhaust shop to have them custom build a 2.5" exhaust. I have my new CAT and muffler. But I won't be doing that for about a month though as this is my daily driver and I start work again on Monday.

 

It tells the ECU if the cat is working good enough. Without it the ECU will throw a CEL but the engine will run fine because it's the front O2 sensor that helps with air/fuel managment.

ORS should be able to help with the fuel line fittings, they come with the conversion kit.

 

Ah right on. I figured it wasn't needed. I might weld it in there in a couple of weekends but I might just wait until I get the custom exhaust built and have the exhaust shop weld the O2 bung in.
Thanks Dale,
Marge
P.S. I used your thread for double checking everything I did. It is awesome! I especially like the index...helped me out so much.

 

Impressive. By the dates of this thread it seems you pulled a 3.0, installed and wired and fired a 3.4 in just 6 days or so.

Awesome work.

 

Does the 5ve hook right up to the 3vze 5 speed?

 

Yeah really, Marge did in 6 days what it took me 6 months to do. Very impressive.

 

Yes it will bolt right up to your 3vz 5spd (r150f tranny code). You need the 5vz flywheel also. Check out Offroadsolutions.com they have plenty of good info their. Also make sure you get the 5vz from a Manual truck. I got my 3.4 from an Auto and converted it to a Manual but in some years the crankshaft doesnt have the pilot bearing hole at the end.
Phil

 

Hi guys, well, yeah about 6 days. But I had the ORS full kit so that helped...a lot! I had 2 weeks off of work because I start a new job tomorrow, I had rebuilt the 3.4 last summer so I was kinda locked into putting it in instead of going traveling like I would do normally on a vacation that long.
Marge

 

Oh also Dale (mt_goat) might have taken 6 months but he did a much, much better job than I did. Haste makes waste...see next post. I finished hooking everything up last night...except for the hood cut/scoop/bump business. As it stands right now the only thing I haven't done is cut the hood which I will do today.
Marge

 

I am having a bit of a problem. I drove the truck last night. Tons of power...so much better than the 3.0 but...I turned on all the electronics (cb, radio, headlights, dome light, wipers, etc.). Everything seemed really doggy (dim headlights, slow wipers, etc.) The engine started acting strange too. Whenever I would go to idle (coming to a stop sign or something) the engine would just die but then it would start right when I hit the starter. I am going to get a OBDII scanner today and check the codes. I know it should throw an O2#2 sensor problem code because I haven't put one in. But I wonder what other codes it might have in store for me. I haven't really started checking into this problem yet but any info/tips would be much appreciated. I had a similar problem recently with the 3.0. Headlights would dim, battery wasn't charging but the engine would run fine. Turned out I just needed to replace the brushes in the alternator then everything was fine. I am wondering if it might be the brushes in the alt and the ECU is freaking out?
Thanks for any help at all,
Marge

 

Oh also the headlights would kinda flicker too...like pulsing power