hamish_18

lol the damn dimmer control. I wonder if I forgot to plug that back in. Thanks guys. I'll check fuses too. Also the reason why the throttle cable would be a pain is I don't have the 3.4 one, and the junkyards around here suck. Thats all.

dntsdad

AH....ya well if you dont have the 3.4 cable that makes it harder to change. Again though, I messed with my 3.0 cable for a few days off and on and could never get it right finally changing to the 3.4 and problems were fixed instantly.

I may look in the classifieds here for guys parting out vehicles and grab one that way if you cant get he 3.0 to work.

......good call on the dimmer switch being up plugged gviers

skunkwhat

hmm, i was able to use the stock 3.0 cable. lucky me i guess. lol

hamish_18

So a little update. Yes the stupid dimmer control was unplugged. Also I now see that I forgot to put the light back for the fan controls. grrr.

I bent the throttle bracket a little more, and now my idle varies between 750 - 1000 rpm's on idle. I am happy with that. There is a pretty big difference in the slack though. I have basically none on the 4runner compared to my truck, where it seems there is about a 1/4 inch of play before the throttle moves. oh well. Have about 90 miles on it so far now. Man does this thing have some power compared to the 3.0!! Running no cat and a flowmaster though isn't going to cut it. I need to put a glass pack or something before the muffler to get the sound down a little.

Check engine light finally came on. I am hoping its just because I don't have the o2 simulator hooked up yet. I get my obd2 scanner on Thursday so I can finally make sure no other codes are in there.

I do have a slight oil leak on the driver side where the oil pump, block, and pan meet. I was an idiot and put the gasket that came with my kit on the oil pan. I wish I would have just used silicone. Is it even possible to pull the oil pan off a motor after its in? I still have the IFS on so I imagine that will be in the way?

Once I get the oil leak solved then this swap will be officially done. YAY!!

Thanks again guys for all your help!!

skunkwhat

Good luck doing the pan with the ifs still in. I dont think it can be done. But i could be wrong.

dntsdad

I pulled the pan off my 3.0 when the rod bearing fried. Enough so to change the bearings from the bottom. Should be the same. That was with a 4" lift however. I had to drop the steering linkage to do it as well.

hamish_18

Neat I can't wait to try and fix it. One last concern. I have the 3.0 pan, but I am using the stock dipstick, as my block had the correct tube and everything. Will this give me a bad reading? It appeared that the 3.0 had about the same length showing than my stock one coming out the dipstick tube.

hamish_18

So got my obd 2 scanner. It seems my o2 sensor isn't working. And of course my 2nd one two, but I don't even have that hooked up sooo. Tonight I took apart the plug that was slightly melted(don't ask). Replaced it with the plug from the 3.0 o2. Reset the ecu and took it for a drive. No more check engine light. Well I checked for codes again, and I have both the p0135 and p0141 codes in a pending state. I would imagine the 2nd bank will kick the CEL on, but why is the p0135 pending? Looking at the realtime data, I am in closed loop now, and getting a short term fuel trim, and I can see the voltages changing on the o2 data. Any ideas? I have a new o2 ordered and will be here tomorrow morning, but it'd be nice to save a 100 bucks if my o2 is working.

hamish_18

Turns out it wasn't the oil pan gasket at all. The manufacturer of my oil pump did have any thread sealant on the allen bolt plug on the driver side. I had already unbolted the oil pan and crap though That was the biggest pain in the ass ever btw.

So I put the teflon thread tape stuff on the bolt and put it back in. No more leaks.

Still have the stupid p0135 code though. Damn o2 sensor tests fine though at 13 ohms. Not sure if its lazy maybe? or if its my wiring(hope not) but its pissing me off to no end.

hamish_18

Well I replaced my o2 sensor and I still got the code Not sure what else to do. It seems like the wires are not connected wrong. I am still getting the p0135 code. Could I be getting both codes for not having the 2nd o2 plugged in???? grrrr

RobD

Do you have the Techinfo pdf file for the code that's being thrown?

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

did you splice in wire to make the o2 wires reach? if so, are you super sure your wires are correctly done? You didnt' splice in the shielding to the signal wire did you?

hamish_18

@robd Yes I have all the obd2 stuff from techinfo, and for my year engine, and a bunch more.
hmmm, I thought about that too. I did have to splice a couple wires as the front o2 plug had been broken off. I am positive though that I didn't splice the signal wire to the grounded shielding. I had cut the signal wire a couple inches from where the shielding begins. Tonight I am having the wife test wires with me, so that I can make sure something didn't come loose. At this point that is the only theory I have for what could be happening. The strange thing is that I am getting a good reading on the computer though. So I am stumped as to why the code is being thrown.

RobD

Now that's a helluva wife

hamish_18

So apparently, the h3 plug (front o2 sensor harness side) was incorrectly wired? The harness is from a 99. Could it have been because it had an a/f sensor instead of an o2? So hopefully I didn't ruin my brand new o2 sensor. grrrr. I extended the wires for the reverse switch and the 4wd switch last night too, but when I had the key in the on position and the tranny in reverse, my lights never came on. Not sure yet what is going on there, will finish up tonight and post.

Just wanted to give you all a quick update.

screamer76

so... did you get a chance to see if the code went away?

hamish_18

not yet. I ran out of time for the night. When I get home from work today, I will get to drive it and see. *crossing fingers*

hamish_18

So I drove it to work today. No Check engine light until right before I got to work. Got here and plugged the laptop into the ecu. SUCCESS no more p0135. Just the p0141 for the 2nd o2.

Not sure if I hooked that up right either. I just assumed the heated side where you would want the huge 12 ohm resistor would be between the +B and ground. and then the 1 Mohm and 1microfarad cap would go between the HT and OX wires? But at least the real o2 is working correctly now.

screamer76

sorry to hear you've still got a bug. i used the second o2 sensor so i'm not going to be any help there.

hamish_18

well this one I could pretty much live with. At least the important one is working now.