hamish_18

Hi everybody,

Okay I tried to not have to ask for help, but I am just stumped. Okay here is the background info for you all:

1990 MT 4runner with blown 3.0
97 5vz blown, with cut harness (Stupid moronic junkyard)

List of things purchased/etc..

97 M/T ecu
99 complete harness for M/T. Nothing cut at all, even had the evap stuff with it.

So I rebuild the motor from the bottom end up. Bored .20 over, new crank, etc...

Got the motor all together and back into its new home.
Started the wiring...

I will say this as everybody else who has done this has. SPEND the 15 bucks for 2 days on the techinfo site. Best 15 bucks I could have ever spent.

Converted the 99 harness to plug into the 97 computer.(Universal plugs on the 99 harness). This was the easy part. The part I am having troubles with is the last connector. In the EWD's I am seeing connector "d" and "e" for the 99, and connector "d" on the 97. On the 99 harness I have connector A, and B, and then what I believe is the II3 Connector. I have through the process of elimination, figured out about 4 of the wires that are on the II3 connector that correspond with Connector "d" on the 99 EWD. This is where I am getting lost at. I have searched and searched for the answer to how I join the body harness into my 99 harness and then to plug "d" for the 97 ecu. As people all have said, everybody's situation is unique.

I can post pics if you need them, but I am at work, so it will be awhile.

If anybody can help I would Send you a 12pk of beer, or something!!
Because right now I want to do this to myself:




Thanks!

-Chris

dntsdad

hey Chris

I am kind of lost reading your post but from experience I realize that its almost impossible to describe things clearly when it comes to the wiring.

I would realy consider scrapping the idea of looking up wire colors and instead use Adobe Acrobat to find that wire in your EWD and define its FUNCTION. Then use that info to match up to your 90 body. For example if its the EFI power, then find EFI power in the 90 EWD and join them.

I had a totally different setup than you so I dont think that I can help much but Acrobat is certainly your friend when searching those EWD's (electronic wiring diagram).
Get the trial FULL VERSION from adobe. the crappy reader that you get free doesnt search

hamish_18

Lol Thanks for understanding, because it is hard to describe something you don't get. Basically I am lost in where I need to splice in to go from the body harness out to the engine and also to the computer. I won't be able to look at anything until this weekend. I think I am getting from what others have said too, that narrowing down what you need by function is better than figuring it out by color/pin number. I think I will do that, and call it good. Thanks for the response.

dntsdad

no prob. post back and update

ColoradoToy91

II3 and II1 are the body harness plugs that have functions such as the gauges etc...

The plug that I think you are referring to, plug D, is a plug that goes from the computer into the dash harness of your donor vehicle. All the other plugs from the ECU go to the engine.

Are you asking the functions of the pins on this plug or where it is located so you can get one to wire into your vehicle?

hamish_18

yes plug d is for the d plug on my 97 ecu. I need pics up for you guys so you all know what I am talking about. But I am taking everyone's advice, and will just figure this out function by function. I spent a couple hours at work just stairing at the EWD's for my 90 and for the 97 on each of my monitors. I think I am making this overly complex. 2 more days and I will see.

hamish_18

I just wanted everybody to know that IT RUNS!!! Turned it over in like 10 sec. increments with the fuel pump disconnected and spark plugs not in yet to get oil circulating. Put spark plugs in, reconnected fuel pump wire of COR, and it fired after the 4th or 5th crank! I just wanted to thank everybody who contributes to this forum. I couldn't have done this without you!!!
Also finishing up the wiring by figuring out the functions made it way easier.

Later all. Gotta go finish the rest of the exhaust and then I will post pics.

hamish_18

okay so a few bugs to be worked out. It doesn't want to idle. Seems really rich. I don't have the plugs on the tranny plugged in. Would that make a difference? My check engine light isn't staying on either, so to me that means that its not throwing any codes? It does turn on before I start the engine though. Any suggestions?

hamish_18

Okay can somebody tell me how to change the title of my thread? Because I no longer have issues with wiring. I think. But I fixed the bad idle issue. It was the MAF sensor. My 99 harness had the plug pinned differently than my 97 MAF needed. Fixed that and bolted my ecu down, and she runs like a dream now. Well almost. The idle stays kinda high, around 1800 -2k. Anybody know what that is about? And I don't have any dash lights either. All my external lights and dome lights work though.

jviers

It may seem trivial/obvious but in my case my high idle was simply too much tension on the throttle cable. Where the throttle cable casing/housing ends (and the inner cable continues) on the manifold, the housing is sandwiched between two nuts on a slotted boss on the manifold. Simply backing off one nut--the right-most) and tightening down the other--the left--let the throttle cam and plate relax and close further, lowering the idle. Check and make sure this isn't it before you go into more complicated things...

hamish_18

hehe ya it was a little tight as the 3.0 cable I think is a little shorter or something than the 3.4 must be. I actually bent the bracket down a little and there is play in the line now. But I am noticing that the vacuum thing on the other side below somewhat of the TPS, may not be letting it come all the way down. I can actually manually close the throttle a little more which closes the butterfly the rest of the way. Sorry I don't know what that vacuum thing is called.

skunkwhat

i Think its the dashpot your talking about. My idle will stay higher than normal sometimes after the truck is fully warmed up.

I can be driving and come to a stop and sometimes it will idle above normal, I'm pretty sure the throttle body is dirty internally, or sticking, because i can tap the throttle (imagine kicking down the idle on an old v8) and it will go down to normal.

But i have been slacking on minor issues like that, and have not taken the throttle body off to clean it, to see if that fixes my idle.

hamish_18

nope not the dashpot. On the other side of the throttle body. Mine doesn't even have the dashpot. The motor came from an automatic. They didn't have dashpots. Only manuals if memory serves me correctly. The thing I am talking about is silver, and has a vacuum line running to it.

screamer76

i think what you're trying to id is the idle air control valve. there's a thread somewhere on here that details removal/cleaning/reinstallation of that valve. that valve could definitely cause a high idle if it's too dirty.

hamish_18

nope its not that either. It only has a small vacuum line attached to it. It sides on the side of the throttle body near the TPS, and is round and mine is silver. It has a plunger that the throttle linkage hits as the throttle is closed. its on the opposite side of where the dashpot is. What I am talking about is on the firewall side of the throttle body. I will see if I can find a pic somewhere.

*EDIT Its called the Throttle Body Opener. Its on page EG-138 in the FSM. And if it doesn't work the FSM says to replace the whole throttle body? lame.

dntsdad

I also count not use my 3.0 throttle cable. I could never adjust the idle down enough.

I then swapped the complete 3.4 cable on and had no problems and it idles perfectly now.

jviers

Interesting...just goes to show you how each situation can be so different. My original 3.0 cable is if anything almost too long (it hangs out almost to the brake MC and the 3.4 evap mounted on the fender well). I'm glad I did not have to fiddle with the throttle cable--had enough to fiddle with without that bother. If you search conversions it seems truly each case is different, even between same-year setups. Lots of variables I guess...

hamish_18

ya that is so true. If it is the cable, then I have to figure something else out. I don't feel like dealing with swapping cables. Its like the adjuster part of the throttle cable doesn't let you back it out far enough. I will mess with it more this weekend. It was getting dark when I actually got to finally drive it. wish I could figure out the dash lights issue though. Anybody have that issue before? All the gauges work fine, and the lights like the check engine, brake, etc all work. just the lights for the gauges themselves aren't turning on. And I can't find in the EWD for the wiring for those lights.

dntsdad

swapping the throttle cable is a 15 minutes job. not that hard.

As far as the dash light go, they shouldn't be affected by the swap. if they worked before they should work now unless you popped a fuse having a wire exposed. Check all the fuses. the fuse will only have power when the parking or headlights are on. Turn on the lights and check the fuse.

jviers

Another perhaps silly thing to ckeck but happened to me...when I took the instrument cluster apart to solder the tach, I missed a plug somehow on reassembling it. The cluster dimmer control, on the left, has a very short lead and somehow it came unplugged when I reassembled everything--no gauge light. Reattaching this plug gave me the light back.