mt_goat

For some reason I had been putting this off for a while, wiring up the URD piggy back computers (FTC and A/F cal). These are necessary to control the extra fuel needed for the supercharger and allow for adjustment of timing to tune out any pinging because of the high boost.

The FTC (fuel timing control) is for open loop tuning of the air/fuel ratio and timing. The A/F calibrator will allow adjustment of the air/fuel ratio during closed loop.

These work by intercepting signals from engine sensors and modifing the signal before the ECU gets it. So some sensor wires to the ECU need to be cut and routed through the piggy backs and then back to the ECU. Other wires just need a tap to the ECU wire.

To make the soldering work for this job easier I saw where some guy pulled the engine wiring harness through the firewall and did the work on a board in the engine bay, it worked great, whoever that was thanks for the idea!



The wires that needed a tap, URD recommends NOT cuting the wire to the ECU but using strippers cut the insulation and slide it back. Then wrap the wire you're tapping around the exposed wire and solder. Then wrap with electrical tape and a wire tie.


The wires to the ECU that need cutting you can solder and use heat shrink, I like to use double heat shrink. Here you can see the red wire from the engine sensor is cut and the blue wire carries the signal to the piggy back and the blue-white wire delivers the modified signal to the ECU.



The URD instructions for all their kit is outstanding, the best I've ever seen. It's a good thing too because getting in contact with them is at best frustrating (no phone and some of my e-mails were not answered for days, if at all) EDIT: they now have a phone and have more help so they are probably easier to reach now. The instructions are vehicle specific and will tell you exactly what color the wire is and which pin it is for double confirmation. You could be color blind and probably still do this.

hektikwon

Man you sure are doing this swap nice and slow. I wish I had had the time ( and money)to do mine in full detail. I'll just have to settle for the supercharger and upgrades later. I finally got around to checking my wiring today for any mistakes cause I was getting a high idle for a while and found about 3 wires including A/C that I had miss wired. Mostly due to the yard that I got the engine wiring harness from telling me it was a 4runner harness when it really was a Tacos. It idles right at 750 most of the time now! Anyways I can't wait to here about your end results. Good luck.

mt_goat

Thanks for the luck, I may need it the first time I turn the key on this thing. It has gone a lot slower then I had hoped, but this was the summer from hell here with 37 days of 100 deg or more. My productivity drops to a crawl when the garage temps are over 90 degs.

mt_goat

Here's where I decided to mount the OBDII connector, one of the nice benefits of the 3.4 swap is this newer diagnostics system. It also is nessesary for tuning the piggy back computers because you need to tap the fuel management brains of the ECU to see what the fuel trims are. The OBDII connector comes as part of the ORS conversion harness.


What's not included is a scan tool to connect the plug to a laptop, here's the one I got and sold by URD: http://obddiagnostics.com/

The ECU is stuffed in the orginal location behind the passenger kick panel. It is a very tight fit, mainly because of the ORS conversion harness also needs to go there. The ORS harness looks like a 2 or 3 headed octopuss and I found it fits best with all the tenticles up and the heads down, but it needs to be folded, crumpled and crammed into the tiny space.

mastacox

Looking good!

Yeah, I hate you for pulling the harness through the firewall by the way, it was a PITA doing it under the dash

I have to wonder, it seems like a REALLY cool project would be to make a "pass-thru" connector that went between the ECU and the FTC... so that rather than soldering your connections you just make it so that you plug the pass-thru into the ECU, and then the stock harness into it, and the connector would handle all of the tapping into/intercepting signals. That would be a lot better IMO, but it could be the extra connections would add too much resistance. Problem is, my main harness is basically soldered in place, unless I take the top of my dash off to get the FTC out... or de-solder the connections one at a time :cry: Not that I plan messing with any of that just saying.

I've been messing around with tuning a lot, and one thing I kind of want to do is make a push-off button that cuts power to the ECU and resets it, rather than pulling the fuse to it all the time... heck it could even double as a kill switch if I want

I'm curious, do you actually have a stock 3.4 harness you're tapping into, and the ORS harness lets you plug it into the body harness for the old 4Runner, or do you have to tap into the ORS harness?

mastacox

One sad thing I just noticed: no deckplate for you, your airbox is right up against the washer fluid reservoir :pat: Not that it really matters, but I do enjoy the increased supercharger whine with mine

mt_goat

Yeah the stock 3.4 engine harness is used, so all but one of the piggy back wires was connected to that. One wire of the ORS conversion harness had to be tapped, that may be the power wire for the ECU you were talking about...hummm

mt_goat

Actually I could have done a deck plate because there is an area where the washer bottle doesn't cover the front of the air box, although it would be a real pain to screw the cover on it. I decided not to for now.

mastacox

Yeah I think the very first wire on the instructions that you "tap into" rather than "intercept" is ECU power (red maybe?)... I tapped my aux. fuse block's "ign hot" wire into that and then plugged the power wires for the FTC and WB Sensor controller into two of the block's four "ign on" circuits. I was worried about overpowering the ECU's power wire, so this way each of the components has its own fuse. The only annoying part is my '98 uses those funky "little" automotive fuses, while the aux block uses the standard size fuses... oh well

Conveniently, the fuse block also has three "always on" circuits, two of which I used in parallel for my 350W inverter under the seat. I still have one "always on" circuit and two "ign on" circuits left in the block, don't know what i'll use them for yet but nice to have them for accessories.

mt_goat

Probably the hardest thing left to do was to get the IPT modified valve body (VB) back in the tranny. This thread was the best instructions I found after much searching:
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum...ht=IPT+install

The main thing I'd like to add to that excellent write-up is to go to the hardward store and buy the longest VB bolts you can find and use them to hold the VB in position while you insert all the springs in place. I found some bolts that were about 2.5 inches long, and that worked good.






Here's the map I made of the bolt locations, there are like 5 different lengths of bolts counting the filter bolts and yes it matters where they go:

mt_goat

After removing the underhood insulation and cutting out some of the cross bracing,

the hood is on:

It appears to be closing without hitting anything:


This is with a 1 inch body lift, supercharger, and new motor mounts. I guess the real test will be when the engine is torqued up and starts moving around, but the motor mounts should start getting lower as time goes by and chaining them down will limit the movement too. When I push down on the hood it will flex down in the areas where I thought the clearance would be tightest, so I'm cautiously jumping for joy right now!

04 Rocko Taco

This is simply amazing. I've been following happily since June, and love this thread...looks beautiful, I cant wait to see the results.

mt_goat

Hey thanks Chris!

After some more testing (with a thick piece of cardboard), I've discovered there is about 1/4" of hood clearance above the SC body. I also have about 1/4" slack in the chains holding the engine down, so I should be ok. I made put some washers under the hood bolts just to give it maybe a 1/16" to 1/8"more clearance. It doesn't look like it would hurt anything if it did kiss the bottom of the hood a little bit, the hood is very flexable there without the cross-bracing.

Bigblock

I hate to interupt your train of thought, but I have a question.I found a 3.4 at a local salvage yard,but the local junkies cut the wiring harness.And don't have any more.The 3.4 is out of a 96 T 100 and is going into a 90 4Runner with a 5 speed.Which harness and computer should I look for?The T100 harness or 4Runner or Tacoma?Tacoma is the most likely to have a 5 speed.BTW awesome thread!

mt_goat

This should answer that question: http://www.offroadsolutions.com/technicalarticles.htm

Bigblock

You have to have an existing (injector)harness for that to work.It covers the last 40%.

mt_goat

Got the front driveshaft retubed (8 1/2 " longer because of the dual cases):


After getting it all bolted back on I see there is a problem, the driveshaft double cardan joint is rubbing the Marlin dual case adapter. So back off it came and I had to grind off some of the corner of the Marlin adapter:

I only have about 3/16" clearance between the two now, hope that's enough. I had tried to contact Marlin Crawler about what to do, but they are not answering their phones again, (they had a member of the tech staff die recently, rest in peace Dean-o) Do people not normally use a double cardan joint with Marlin Crawlers or something?

Also kind of bummed out that I couldn't get to one grease zert with the new Budbuilt crossmember. I'll try to find a new grease gun with a flexable tube or something.

My plan is to drive to the driveline shop in front wheel drive and have them do the measuring on the rear shaft, since the tube to be shortened is between the transfer case and center carrier bearing (there is no slip joint) it has to be exactly the right length.

Got real lucky with the auto shifter linkage, it bolted right up with no modification. I was all prepared for having to modifiy it to fit according to the ORS instructions:


Had another problem though when I went to bolt on the throttle cable. The 3.0 throttle cable combined with the 3.4 auto tranny cable don't mate up together on the same bracket. Even though there is a ton of adjustment with the bracket that holds the 2 in position on the supercharger (3 different sets of bolts holes) Here's the bracket:

The lead on the 3.4 cable is longer than the lead on the 3.0 cable and when you get one in adjustment the other is out of adjustment. So I cut the bracket in half and made a plate to mount the halves on:

Then tack welded the bracket in position on the plate:


Now I can bolt the plate on to the supercharger and both the cables adjust correctly now:

Another option might have been to use the 3.4 thottle cable, but I already had the engine in and it's kind of hard to get to now. If I had known before I put the engine in (hint Mike ) I might have tried doing it that way.

Getting ready to have a custom exhaust system built from the cross-over back. I couldn't find anyone that sells a Toyota O2 sensor bung to weld into the new exhaust piping. After talking to a friend that works at the local Toyota dealer about where to get one, he says why don't you just make one? I hadn't thought of that Jason, thanks for the idea. So here's how to make your own O2 sensor bung.
I started with a piece of 3/8 steel and marked the outline with a gasket and drilled and tapped some holes (8mm x 1.25):


I used some exhaust studs from the dealer that were left over when I was putting on the ORS cross-over.


Then I started cutting it out with a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder:

After using a grinder and beltsander to smooth it out:


Now that was one bung, but I need two for the 5VZ right. The first one took me about 2-3 hours to make so I decided to try cutting an old one out of my old 3.0 exhaust pipe and using it. That took about 2-3 hours too, counting replacing the old studs and smoothing it out with a grinder and beltsander too.

Here's the two side by side, the one I made from scratch will have to be welded in parallel to the pipe since it's not curved to the shape of the pipe:

AH64ID

interesting on the front driveshaft... seems odd.. IIRC its reccommended to run a CV style joint, and with a SFA youll get some side to side movement thru the suspension travel??

Looking good, can you say jealous

04 Rocko Taco

Thats some really nice work there Dale. Kinda makes me wish I had a project to get fristrated working on. lol. I like the bung, thats some dead sexy fab work there. Keep it up, loving this thread!!

mt_goat

Thanks guys! Yeah John I hadn't thought about if this was an SA and the front end was moving around. That would need even more clearance What's the deal with the lack of clearance, good thing for me I just have IFS and nothing moves much huh?