mt_goat

Fallman when you get your computer going again please start a whole new thread for your pics. Your swap looks great and deserves it's own thread, you don't want it buried on page 9 or 10 of this one, and neither do I. Don't forget to cover your tranny too!

mt_goat

Well Mike is sending me out a couple of aluminum adapters to try. They used the steel before without problems but maybe these will work better.

I noticed one thing about the steel fitting I took off, the hole through the middle was slightly off center, so the mating surface was slightly oval shaped.

It also appeared that the contact marks made from the other suface didn't go all the way around, which would explain why it was leaking. This minor misalignment was probably something that would seal up if one metal was softer than the other and could conform some, but being that both were steel perfect alignment is more critical.

mt_goat

My old tranny cooler is now a power steering cooler:


I hooked it up to the low pressure return line. I've heard these newer 5VZ power steering pumps are more prone to burning up than the older 3VZ pump. Some Taco guys have been through 3 or more pumps. The guys having the worst trouble are running solid axle though. So the cooler and synthetic Mobil 1 ATF should help. I think some have fit the older pumps with the 5VZ pulley and used them. The rack and pinion steering system uses a higher pressure pump, or so I heard. Maybe the higher pressure pump generates more heat?

Here it is with the skid plate on:

thefallman

well i will do that this week i talked to dell earlier and they informed me that it was just the battery LOL oops. so now im just using my computer with the ac adapter and no battery till i get one from dell.

mt_goat

I got the other end of the high pressure fuel line provided by ORS disconnected while waiting for delivery of the new adapters. There appeared to be a leak at this end too, but not as bad as the other end which was spraying out. Here's what I found on this adapter, which like the other side is a steel on steel connection.

Unlike the other one, this one appeared to have the hole drilled in the center of the fitting, BUT it had machining chatter marks all over the sealing surface. I wish I had a macro lens for my digital camera, but you can still see them:




With a magnifing glass I could tell the marks from the mating surface were just hitting the tops of the chatter marks, leaving the valleys without contact to the mating surface and free to leak fuel right by.

There is no doubt in my mind that both of these fittings are defective, at least for a steel on steel connection. If they were mating up to a brass or aluminum coupler they might seal, but not steel on steel. Machining of steel fittings needs to be precise.

To ORS credit they are providing some different fittings at no charge and are not currently using the steel fittings anymore.

mastacox

Man, every time I see new posts on this thread, I JUMP in here to see what's next...


This thread is way too addicitve... I'm gonna need a 12-stepper after you're done (if you're ever done LOL)...

mt_goat

Yeah Brian I'm going to miss this project too when it's done. Maybe I'll just start another one LOL.

mastacox

Dude, you've practicaly run out of stuff to do on this one, unless you go full size axles front and rear But I never said that...

mt_goat

Yeah, Jason if you need a hand let me know. If you were next door, I'd be over all the time. One of my neighbors keeps coming over and just shakes his head in disbelief.

04 Rocko Taco

ME TOO!!!! I dont know what I'll do with my time when your done...

Can you blame him?

mt_goat

After a recent thread about the big 3 and trying to help the guy on how to do it, https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131/big-3-wire-upgrade-95850/ I realized I had only done 2 of the 3 on my truck. Seems like trying to help others often winds up helping me too.

The one I missed was the block ground to the battery. I was just using the 5VZ battery harness, and the ground cable is ok size (maybe 8 gauge) but bigger would be better. I had some 4 gauge welding cable left over so I decided to add that for a redundant ground.

I bolted the ground to the alternator mounting bolt:


And ran it over to my electrical staging area next to the battery. Kind of a mess (I never seem to be able to make wiring look good). I made room on the ground distribution block on the left, which was already connected directly to the (-) battery post with some 2 gauge welding cable:


As you can see here the wire didn't need to be very long to go from the alt to the grounding block.

mt_goat

Well I got the aluminum adapters today from ORS and they work great, no more fuel leak. So I finally got to drive the thing, is there a way I can add this to my sig? It runs like a bat out of hell and it still doesn't have the O2 sensors in and I'm still using the 3.0 exhaust system. I hit just under 10 lbs of boost and I wasn't even over 4000 rpms. Tommorow it's off to the exhaust man.

2 problems that popped up. The parking lights and tail lights don't work anymore (the fuse was ok) I'll have to get out the DMM and trace that down. And my airhorn relay stuck on in my driveway, (neighbors must have loved that), I had to disconnect the battery to shut it off. I think the relay stuck on because it was located right next to a 9 inch subwoofer magnet. I moved it away some, and I'll see if it happens again.

jasond

Cool, bring it by the shop tomorrow if you can. I would LOVE to see it!!

mt_goat

Hey Jason, I'm going to the muffler shop tommorrow, after that's done maybe.

thefallman

Do you want some pics of my exhaust. I can also give you measurements on stock locations of O2 Sensors. I put them in at the exact measurements off of the head that they are on the 97 4runner.

It puts the CAT a bit close to the Tranny, but if you rotate to on a 45 it keeps it far enough away i didnt do that unfortunately.

But i never kicked in codes for O2 sensors either, in 1200 miles, towing 4000+lbs. which is more then i can say for the wifes stock grand cherokee.


OH and i also have 2.5 inch system all theway out from ORS Crossover. with 2.5 inch Summit CAT, and again NO CODES

thefallman

Grrr damn it im just going to do my own thread tonight.

mt_goat

Too late for the pics I guess. On the O2 measurements, I already took the measurements from the donor exhaust, thanks anyway Fallman.

thefallman

i was going to do that thread last night but seems there is more wrong with the computer then just the battery cause now it wont stay on for more then 5 min and it locks up. seems the video card is on its last leg or something

mt_goat

I found out as I left in the dark to go to the muffler shop (6:45am) that in addition to the taillights and marker lights not working the dash lights and dome lights also didn't work. After chasing the bug for a while with a DMM and EWD I took off the lower dash panel below the steering wheel and suddenly the lights just started working fine on their own. Except the dome light, it still has a bug somewhere.

After looking at the truck, the muffler shop wanted over $1000 to build a mandel bent exhaust from the crossover back. That plus the wait for bends to be shipped and the fact he wouldn't be able to tuck the pipes into tight places as well, I decided to go with regular bent 2 1/2" pipe. Maybe later I'll order some bends and tackle it with my TIG welder. I was tired of waiting to drive it.

Today on my way to get the rear driveshaft shortened I threw a PO 420 CEL. Appearantly my 2001 ECU doesn't like just having one cat. I'll probably give the URD O2 simulator a try on that if it keeps happening. A lot of Taco guys get that code even with 2 cats.

Biggest worry right now is the cooling system. The gauge is showing fine but the fan is running on high just cruising down the highway at 70 mph on a 80 degree day. So I hooked up my laptop to the OBDII connector and monitored the coolant temp for about 15 miles. It is running around 185-195, and it is hottest at highway speeds. This is with a 170 deg thermostat, and no air conditioning yet. Brian I'm not ready to say you're right, but I'm worried. Just how hot is too hot anyway? A stock Taurus thermostat doesn't even open until 198 deg. The trans temp is great, like around 160 deg

thefallman

Your oil in your engine doesnt start working efficiently till it gets above 170degrees. So your engine really should stay in the 170 to 200 range. i have seen car's that run higher. i really wouldnt worry till it gets above 212. Around 217 to 225 you start loosing fluid unless you have a really great sealed coolant system. as long as you keep your engine oil and tranny fluid the 170 to 195 range you shouldnt have any real problems. the problem with stock systems and getting over 200 degrees is the lack of seperate oil coolers and the fact that the engine oil and transmission oil cannot cool themselves down to a decent tempature because they are actually aquireing heat from the coolant that is supposed to be cooling them.

So if you put in engine oil coolers and tranny oil coolers it should remedy this problem and allow you to safely go higher. your head shouldnt warp unless you actually either run it out of coolant or get it up into the 350+ degree range. which would be quite hard withought running it out of coolant.

Most stock vehicles have the red zone starting somewhere around 245 or so. especially when you get into the newer cars.