I have started swaping a 2004 3.4 tacoma engine into my 1992 Rocky Daihatsu. The plan is to do the engine swap then drive the vehicle while I gather all the parts to do a straight axle swap with toyota axles.

I have already got the engine and trans mounted in the rocky now im working on all the other stuff.

I will start posting pictures soon.

 

Holy lightning! Haven't seen one of those in forever! Thats ALOT of motor for it. Defiantly keep us posted!

 

I made the crossover pipe using some scrap pieces of tubing I had laying around. I guess it came out ok, but after looking at some of the other ones on this forum I am thinking im gona make a new one. I think the 04 crossover pipe is diff than some of the older ones, it had an inner and outer shell which made it unable to be modify and reused. Any one know which years have the single pipe style??

 

subscribed, predicting a wheel standing Daihatsu with this one.

 

cutting out old mounts

 

motor mounts made with 3/16 plate

 

another motor mount pic

 

I had to relocate the battery to the driver side so I made a new battery tray.

 

TO DO LIST

Wiring
Exahust
Clutch Slave/master (originaly had cable)
Radiator and fan
Drive Shafts
Shifters (need to modify shift sticks)

Test Drive

 

X2!

Who makes Daihatsu? Themselves? Are they still around? Everyone I seen was rotted to hell. Cool buildup!!

James

 

Daihatsu is its own brand, but was sold in the US via Toyota. Dont think they are still around in North America. The Rocky was around for a short time in the late 80s to the mid 90s.

My dad and I found one when I was looking for my first ride when I was 16. Super cool little rig. But there was no way I could have drove it, all the pedals were super close. Went and looked at a Samurai afterwords, and it felt like a Suburban.

 

I have read that daihatsu used to be some kind of division of toyota or something like that. Alot of the parts are very similar to the toyota parts some have TOYODA labled on them. The terminals plugs on the rocky ECU are identical to the 22re ECU. Even the engine looks like a mini 22re.

The original engine had 175,000 miles and was still running solid, but it didnt have enough power rated at around 80hp . the 3.4 should be a nice upgrade and have plenty of power for the 33's after I swap the axles.

 

The early first few years of the 3.4 had the cross over you want. 96-99 i want to say....

 

Im almost done with all the wiring but I need to figure out a few last things

Evap Stuff- The 04 tacoma motor I am using have four different sensors for the Evap system that go to the ECU.
1)VSV(Pressure Switching Valve) to ECU E7 pin 20
2)VSV(EVAP) to ECU E7 pin 14
3)VSV(canister closed valve) to ECU E7 pin 19
4)Vapor press sensor(gas tank) ECU E8 pin 24 & E8 pin 25
My question is there a way to not hook up all this stuff and trick the ECU in to thinking that it is hooked up so that I dont get any check eng lights or driveability problems?? (if yes, how??) I am not sure what to do about the vapor press sensor located on the (tacoma) gas tank. It senses pressure in the tank and sends a variable voltage to the ECU. I am not planing on swaping fuel tanks just to make this work. I do still have all the Daihatsu Rocky evap stuff which is very similar to the 22re system. Is there a way to make all this work? We dont have emissions checks where I live.

VSS(vehicle speed sensor)- The tacoma sends a pulse signal to the ECU from the instrument gauge spedometer. To my understanding this signal is used to help control the fly by wire throttle body that my 04 engine has. The rocky also has a wire coming from its speedometer going to the ECU and the manual says that it sends a variable voltage signal to the ECU depending on vehicle speed. But the Rocky is cable driven up to the speedometer. Any one have any ideas on how to make this work??

 

Well I haven't had to much time to work on this creation but I did manage to finish the power steering and also finish all the electrical wireing ( except A/C, VSS and evap. Will figure those things out later) the wiring was relatively easy but it took a while cause I took my time and wired it very clean and nice in hopes to keep it reliable and easy to trouble shoot in the future if needed.

I cranked it over for the first time today to see if the starter circuit was wired properly and to my supprise the engine fired up on the first crank and ran fine but I didn't run it for more than about 45 seconds cause thers no exhaust on it at the moment ( just the crossover pipe)

next on the to do list
mount ecu
trans crossmember
finish exhaust




Next on the to do list

 

Well I added some water to the radiator and ran it for a while and I hate to say it but I think it could
possibly have a blown head gasket! I can't see how or why, the engine came out of a running 04 Tacoma with only 91000 miles the truck flipped over and the cab was smashed. The truck was upside down for a day or two. Maybee that has something to do with it. When I start the engine it runs fine with no missfire and no check eng light but it blows allot of white smoke, it doesn't smell like burning oil. Any ideas of what it could be besides blown headgasket or cracked block or head???

 

pull the valve covers. check drain oil. fill the radiator all the way run it burb it. Check the spark plugs. You'll be able to see by the spark plugs

 

Mine did that and it was a rollover too. It went away eventually. As in, after running it several times.

 

Uk runner how Long before it went away?? And was it alot of white smoke like steem or more of a oil burning smell??? I did a compression test and all cylinders were even at about 170. Also checked all the spark plugs and didn't find anything unusual. Removed the coolant hoses that go to the throttle body and gave it a try but it still blows smoke!! I'm Gona do a leak down check on all the cylinders tomorrow. It's deffinatly water getting into the combustion or exhaust some how, while I run it I can see water dripping from all the exhaust flanges ( didn't put in the gaskets yet)

 

And there's no Coolant in the oil. And the radiator doesn't bubble or blow coolant with the cap removed and the engine being reved. Hopefully I will get some kind of determination of what's going on with the leak down check