I have 2 questions on this thread.


1. My engine seems I'm running hot. I mean pretty hot. It seems sometimes like I have low oil pressure. I was told by Toyota that I might have a bad oil pressure sending unit but I don't think that would be related to the overheating. My engine liner (thing under the hood) definately needs to be replaced. I have plenty of coolant, it's tapped off. I'm pretty sure my hoses have no holes but the car is 13 years old so do you think it's time to get my hoses replaced? I had my fuel injectors cleaned not toooooo long ago but a couple months. Could it be the extra weight from the suspension conversion? Could my transmission be overhearing causeing it to slack and the engine to work harder to pull it? Would a strained alternator have anything to do with it because the one I have it stock? Could there not be enough gas getting sucked into the engine so it can pull the car? It feels like lag sometimes. Could a belt driven fancause the problem? I hear switching to electric fans if you have good equipment is a good idea for every day drivers.

Or it could just be the weather and the fact that its black.

If anyone has some information try and answer as many as possible or give some kind of input. I'd really appreciate it. I'm tryin to ask some people who dont look at me like I'm an idiot cause I don't know these thinga dn i'm just throwing out ideas to what might solve the problem or lead me to it.


Thanks a lot!!!!


Jason

 

Is it low on oil?

This will cause the paint on your hood to degrade faster and cause your hood to be hot.

If the hoses are not pliable anymore, they should be replaced. Also look for small cracks on the surface of the hoses as that is signs they are drying out and will soon be a problem.

This has nothing to do with your problem, but did you get them flow tested and charted?

I doubt it would be due to extra weight, but there might be something wrong with the conversion that is causing strain on your drive-train.

If your transmission was overheating, you should be getting a light that tells you that your transmission is overheating. Is this happening?

Don't think so. The alternator in these is a bit weak, but it gets the job done unless you are bumping some sounds.

That would have a reverse effect from what you are claiming, plus a lot of stutter from your engine.

3.0? Lag? You better have that checked out! Just kidding... all those 3.0's are laggy. This is probably due to some maintenance required, but has probably has nothing to do with this problem.

If so, all 3.0's would have this problem. I would say no and don't try to get any gains by replacing the fan for an electric.

Explain "good equipment", but I don't think replacing the fan does much of anything on these trucks. (some will disagree, though)

Does this happen every year? Or is this the first time you have driven it when it was hot? or black for that matter?

No problem! I may still be looking at you like you are an idiot, but that's just the way I look so no poking fun!

I may not count that well, but I answered a lot more then two and I don't see any more numbers then just #1...

 

22re? look @ having the radiator cleaned or replaced and replace the houses.... get a dual stage thermostat, writeup on that on www.4crawler.com

check the oil level and make sure it is topped off as well... stock guages leave much to be desired so dont htink you have low oil pressure just because the stock guage says so

 

Hahahahahahahaha .

by the way!

 

Screw a mechanical oil press gauge to just to be on the safe side.Could be oil pump.

 

Okay some here call the toyota 3.0L V6 3vz-e engine a slug, other just go with 3.slow. Does not really matter how you slice it or call all here will agree the 3vz is not a rocket. As for the hot run are you havng to add water or coolant? are you having to add oil to keep it a the correct level? Is she smoking or leaking anything....what I am getting at here is could you be the next member to the BHG club? if you know that this is not a hg issue, then like has already been advised...flush the cooling system...ensure oil is at proper level...basicly do a full service tune up.....

 

Dragon564 and Jim:My radiator was replaced less than a year ago. The coolant is still toppped off. My oil is fine, I just changed it a couple hundred miles ago. There is no smoke. I haven't flushed the cooling system ever. (I don't think it got done with the radiator) I've had my bottom block rebuilt cause my engine siezed up over a year ago so whatever Toyota did there.......

 

Yea yeah it's more than two but I gotta explain the situation

 

Ahh, thanks. It that a different part than the oil pressure sending unit? (Or is gauge just the lay term for that?)

 

1.Is it low on oil?
-No, just changed it not too long ago.

2.This will cause the paint on your hood to degrade faster and cause your hood to be hot.
-Where would be a good place to go to find a replacement?

3.If the hoses are not pliable anymore, they should be replaced. Also look for small cracks on the surface of the hoses as that is signs they are drying out and will soon be a problem.
-They are 13 years old. I feel she needs some new ones. How many hours of work to you think it should take to replace all of the hoses?

4.(The fuel injectors cleaned)This has nothing to do with your problem, but did you get them flow tested and charted?
-I'm not sure all I told them was that I needed them cleaned. I'm not sure what all they did.

5.I doubt it would be due to extra weight, but there might be something wrong with the conversion that is causing strain on your drive-train.
-What are some possibilites? Cause someone has mentioned this to me before but I never really could understand what they were trying to say.

6.If your transmission was overheating, you should be getting a light that tells you that your transmission is overheating. Is this happening?
-I did my SAS in December, January. The place recommended a tranny cooler and I took their advice and told them to put one it. I guess it had not been working properly or had been mounted in a wrong spot because two of my forward clutches had melted together in late April, early May. Ha-ha I took it wheeling to a state offroad park here in NC called Uwharrie after being rebuilt. After "struggling"to get up and over these rocks my A/T Oil Temperature light came on. This is the only time it happened until later that day trying to get up some rocks at the same park. I can smell something sometimes coming from underneath my car. Do you think it could be my transmission burning up again?


7.Don't think so. The alternator in these is a bit weak, but it gets the job done unless you are bumping some sounds.
-I have the stock alterator with a optima yellow top batters. A pair of black magics and a pair of hella 500s. These are only run when needed. For sound I have JL. ZR-4 Speakers. 2 12''W3V2 subs with a 500/1 amp for the subs and a 300/4 amp for the speakers. All monster cable but no capacator. It can knock with the rear glass up.

8.That would have a reverse effect from what you are claiming, plus a lot of stutter from your engine.
Oh, I didin't know that. Unless you want to explain that in detail we can leave it out.

9.Explain "good equipment", but I don't think replacing the fan does much of anything on these trucks. (some will disagree, though)
-Well good equipment meaning high output alternator and a good battery. Unless it would need something else to power it.


12.Does this happen every year? Or is this the first time you have driven it when it was hot? or black for that matter?
-Was black when I bought it, and still is black. The weather has been getting hotter every year but the hood seems scorching.

13. Maybe I need my cooling system flushed?



I may not count that well, but I answered a lot more then two and I don't see any more numbers then just #1...

Well thank you so much. I appreciate the time you took to type this out cause I just want the thing to run right so I don't OCD over it all the time.

 

add some dishwasher detergent.

 

You could have changed it yesterday... that doesn't mean it is topped off. Pull this dip stick out and see if it is low or not. Also the type and weight of oil could be causing problems

Good stuff would be something like a heat-shield version of dynomat. I am sure any hot rod mag has something available. Honestly, I ripped mine out a couple years back and have never bothered replacing it yet.

All the hoses? Could be done in about an hour, but this would be a good time to flush that radiator if you are planning on it being you will be draining it anyways. I would honestly check your hoses and replace what needs to be replaced. Without ever getting your hands in there, you are never going to have a clue of what needs to be fixed or replaced.

They probably ran seafoam ($5 can) or something through it. They aren't cleaned and this could be a problem. You mentioned you had it rebuilt, did you do this or have someone else do it? Did they replace or rebuild the injectors at that time and could they give you documentation on the flow testing?

There is a whole thing in this forum about drive shafts... actually a cou0ple times over. I don't have time to get into detail on that, but do a search and there will be a link that explains drive shafts and lifts and such.

You could have caused problems then, if you kept on it after the light came on. Did you follow the instructions on your visor and let it cool before climbing more?

Optima batteries are a waste of money in my book. They don't last as long as a duralast gold from Autozone and are not as reliable. They sell them because they look cool and people pay out the wasoo for something different. In other words, they make the store a lot of money and they don't take loses on warranties, either. I have heard they produce strain on your alternator too, but have no hard evidence to support that. Being you are running a couple amps, I would look into the alternator upgrade very soon.

The electric fans don't use much juice either. People in here have done the Taurus conversion without any battery or alternator upgrades.

Black gets hot. Ask I think the thing you need to pay attention to is the thermostat, not the hood. The only thing you should be worried about is burning your hands or warming your beers.

That never hurt anything and would be a good time to replace the hoses. Save money and bring your own hoses if you have someone do the wynes machine or something.

Then do proper maintenance... know what is going on if you ever take it to a shop and such.


Some things that might help with poor running 3VZE:
1. Rebuild the injectors
2. Use NGK wires and NGK v-power plugs
3. Make sure the oil weight is thick enough on the older engines.
4. Pressure test your cylinders to make sure they are all within tolerance.

You said the bottom seized? This is a common problem with using too thin of oil, not changing oil enough, running too low of oil, having low oil pressure.

I personally want to find out what is the deal with the oil in this rig of yours. Do not reply until you can give me this:
Is there enough oil in the engine (Physically check it on the dipstick right now!)?
What kind of oil is in it and has been in it?
What kind of oil filter do you use?
When you had the block rebuilt did they replace the oil pump?

Sorry for these long posts, but you have a lot of issues at hand here. lets try and get this solved for ya though! This is a good forum for getting the help you need!!!!

 

ROC,

Ted is steering you in the correct direction with the oil questions.....on the cooling system, are you seeing signs of rust in your rad? Is the over flow bottle clean enough to see the level from the outside or do you have to open it up and look down the hole? I will also add that while the BLACK color is not helping to cool the truck it is not the sole cause of it running hot.....If the engine was not flushed when the rad was swapped out then...it does need to be flushed out. With what you have here I think we can rule out a BHG. Get some external gauges even if only for testing...but find out what the oil press is and the water temp.....The gauges on most production cars are meant as guides and the sensors for these get weak with age and become even less accurate. For the elec fan, .... I have one...seat of pants says yeah more power...but I do not even think it would count as one horse on a dyno run.....Engine runs cooler in traffic, and IMHO this is the only area where an electric provides real gains....

 

I was having IDENTICAL problems to 4RocRunner92 in my 93 SR5. after 2 thermostats, hoses, numerous flushes, 3 different viscosities of oil, and lots of cursing and head scratching, i finally broke down and put in a new (read: not clogged) radiator and electric fan (why not?). my oil pressure seems to stay where it should now and my rig runs cool, even when climbing gnarly-ass rock piles...

new radiator: $185.00 - autozone
16" elec. fan: $70.00 - autozone
2 jugs coolant:$12.00 - walmart
being able to run my A/C in summer:
Priceless :-)