How to: Fuel Fitler Replacement on 88' 22RE with FI
12-12-2002, 03:48 AM
#1
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How to: Fuel Fitler Replacement on 88' 22RE with FI
Let me start by saying this. If you don't have good patience and small hands/arms take this to the dealer to have it done. It took me over an hour and a half to change this thing. The engineer who decided to place it where they did was a complete idiot.
The filter is located under the intake manifold, above the starter motor and behind the oil filter. If it's time for an oil change this would be a good time to do it considering it's easier to do this with the oil filter off. The best way to gain access to the filter is to remove the passenger side front tire and go through the wheel well. Remove the dust cover so you can clearly see the filter through the side. Before taking anything apart you need to release the pressure in the fuel system. You can do this by looking into the passenger side REAR wheel well for the harness that goes to the fuel pump. It will be located towards the front of the wheel well behind the dust cover. You should see a connector there and the wire color behind the sleeve should be white with a black stripe. With that disconnected start the truck and let it run until it stalls from lack of fuel. This should only take a few seconds. After that crank it again a few times to be sure the pressure is out. Now since you will be working with fuel it would be a good idea to remove the negative terminal off the battery and wrap it up so it can't re ground on anything. Now your ready to start. I used a 12mm deep well socket with extension to get to the lower filter bolt first. It's hard to see and there is very little swinging room for the ratchet so plan to take some time getting it loose. If you need to disconnect the starter relay wire (small wire going into bottom of starter motor) to get it out of the way do that but remember to hook it back up when done. Next I used a short 12mm socket with a knuckle adapter to get to the top bolt. It's hard to get to and even harder to swing the ratchet on. Take your time, you'll get it eventually. After you get both bolts out you can pull the filter down some from where it is so you can get to the two fuel line bolts easier. At this point take a good look at how the filter is sitting and how the lines go into it. It's very important to not put the lines on backwards when you put the new one in. To remove the bolts you'll need a 17mm, 19mm and 21mm open end wrench. Each side has the bolt and a hex area on the filter to put the other wrench on to twist the bolt off. Use one wrench (19mm, 21mm the holder bolt on the filter is a different size on each side) to hold the filter and the 17mm to loosen the bolt. I hope you get what I mean on that. Have a rag handy because the fitler will leak fuel out once the fittings are loose. At this point be very careful to not loose the washers that are on each fitting. Before you take the bolts completely off look at the fitting and see where the washers go so you can put them back right. Next put the lines onto the new filter being sure to put them on just like they were on the old one. Once you have them on make sure you have the lines plenty tight. You don't want a fuel leak to cause a fire and toast your truck. After your all connected maneuver the filter back into place and bolt it back in. Don't cut corners here and not do both bolts. If you do it could shift and rub a hole into a fuel line over time. Be sure to reconnect the battery, fuel pump connector and starter relay wire at this time. Also reinstall the oil filter if you removed it to do this. Reinstall the tire. Fire the truck up and enjoy a cold beer while you pat yourself on the back knowing how much money you just saved not having the dealer do this for you. You might also want to take a second to appologize to anyone in the area for all the swearing you did during this replacement.
D.
The filter is located under the intake manifold, above the starter motor and behind the oil filter. If it's time for an oil change this would be a good time to do it considering it's easier to do this with the oil filter off. The best way to gain access to the filter is to remove the passenger side front tire and go through the wheel well. Remove the dust cover so you can clearly see the filter through the side. Before taking anything apart you need to release the pressure in the fuel system. You can do this by looking into the passenger side REAR wheel well for the harness that goes to the fuel pump. It will be located towards the front of the wheel well behind the dust cover. You should see a connector there and the wire color behind the sleeve should be white with a black stripe. With that disconnected start the truck and let it run until it stalls from lack of fuel. This should only take a few seconds. After that crank it again a few times to be sure the pressure is out. Now since you will be working with fuel it would be a good idea to remove the negative terminal off the battery and wrap it up so it can't re ground on anything. Now your ready to start. I used a 12mm deep well socket with extension to get to the lower filter bolt first. It's hard to see and there is very little swinging room for the ratchet so plan to take some time getting it loose. If you need to disconnect the starter relay wire (small wire going into bottom of starter motor) to get it out of the way do that but remember to hook it back up when done. Next I used a short 12mm socket with a knuckle adapter to get to the top bolt. It's hard to get to and even harder to swing the ratchet on. Take your time, you'll get it eventually. After you get both bolts out you can pull the filter down some from where it is so you can get to the two fuel line bolts easier. At this point take a good look at how the filter is sitting and how the lines go into it. It's very important to not put the lines on backwards when you put the new one in. To remove the bolts you'll need a 17mm, 19mm and 21mm open end wrench. Each side has the bolt and a hex area on the filter to put the other wrench on to twist the bolt off. Use one wrench (19mm, 21mm the holder bolt on the filter is a different size on each side) to hold the filter and the 17mm to loosen the bolt. I hope you get what I mean on that. Have a rag handy because the fitler will leak fuel out once the fittings are loose. At this point be very careful to not loose the washers that are on each fitting. Before you take the bolts completely off look at the fitting and see where the washers go so you can put them back right. Next put the lines onto the new filter being sure to put them on just like they were on the old one. Once you have them on make sure you have the lines plenty tight. You don't want a fuel leak to cause a fire and toast your truck. After your all connected maneuver the filter back into place and bolt it back in. Don't cut corners here and not do both bolts. If you do it could shift and rub a hole into a fuel line over time. Be sure to reconnect the battery, fuel pump connector and starter relay wire at this time. Also reinstall the oil filter if you removed it to do this. Reinstall the tire. Fire the truck up and enjoy a cold beer while you pat yourself on the back knowing how much money you just saved not having the dealer do this for you. You might also want to take a second to appologize to anyone in the area for all the swearing you did during this replacement.
D.
Last edited by 02SilverV6; 12-12-2002 at 04:05 AM.
01-09-2003, 06:08 PM
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Originally posted by Obnoxio
Pull the cyl head. Thats when I replaced my fuel filter.
Pull the cyl head. Thats when I replaced my fuel filter.
01-17-2003, 07:32 PM
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You can actually replace the fuel filter in about 10 minutes or less. At least I can 
Oh, uh, did I mention that I relocated it to the top of the passenger side fenderwell in the engine compartment? I found on my '85 4Runner there is enough slop in the fuel lines to reach the fender. I handmade (in the roughest terms possible) a bracket using a 1/4" thick piece of mending strap, an old fuel filter, a hammer, a drill and extra nuts and bolts and, yes I confess, a railroad tie. I don't remember how long the mending strap was to begin with, but I used the old fuel filter as a form to match the profile and the hammer and railroad tie as shaping tools.
It works great! Now I just pop the hood, lean over the fender, twist a few bolts and it's done.
However, a couple caveats:
1. The engineer may have intentionally placed that big old filter all tucked up and away like that to help prevent the Toyota from turning into a really nifty flame thrower in the event of a high impact crash or perhaps the fuel atomizes better when hot?
2. I tried the same method on my wife's '91 extra cab 2x4 and after getting the fuel filter relocated there was a clicking and surging in the fuel system. It wound up there wasn't enough slop in the fuel lines to reach the fender without crimping them. It would be well worth it though in my opinion on later model years to get longer fuel lines so you could relocate the filter to the fender.
Keep in mind this is advice from somebody that does auto repairs that include a hammer and a railroad tie :rolleyes:
Oh, uh, did I mention that I relocated it to the top of the passenger side fenderwell in the engine compartment? I found on my '85 4Runner there is enough slop in the fuel lines to reach the fender. I handmade (in the roughest terms possible) a bracket using a 1/4" thick piece of mending strap, an old fuel filter, a hammer, a drill and extra nuts and bolts and, yes I confess, a railroad tie. I don't remember how long the mending strap was to begin with, but I used the old fuel filter as a form to match the profile and the hammer and railroad tie as shaping tools.
It works great! Now I just pop the hood, lean over the fender, twist a few bolts and it's done.
However, a couple caveats:
1. The engineer may have intentionally placed that big old filter all tucked up and away like that to help prevent the Toyota from turning into a really nifty flame thrower in the event of a high impact crash or perhaps the fuel atomizes better when hot?
2. I tried the same method on my wife's '91 extra cab 2x4 and after getting the fuel filter relocated there was a clicking and surging in the fuel system. It wound up there wasn't enough slop in the fuel lines to reach the fender without crimping them. It would be well worth it though in my opinion on later model years to get longer fuel lines so you could relocate the filter to the fender.
Keep in mind this is advice from somebody that does auto repairs that include a hammer and a railroad tie :rolleyes:
01-17-2003, 07:35 PM
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Originally posted by Fahrenheit 451
Keep in mind this is advice from somebody that does auto repairs that include a hammer and a railroad tie :rolleyes:
Keep in mind this is advice from somebody that does auto repairs that include a hammer and a railroad tie :rolleyes:
What, you mean that's not the right way to make repairs?!?
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