Help with pinging
#1
Help with pinging
My '94 22re pings around 3500-4000 rpm. I have a TRD level 1 cam, Pacesetter header, Jacobs ignition, AFM mod(3 teeth rich), 2 1/4 exhaust, 3" intake tube from AFM to throttle body,ECT mod, 4 degrees of ignition timing (5 degrees seemed worse). Clears up past 4000 rpm. I think I have covered it all. Was wondering if grounding the shield on the knock sensor would help? Any help would be appreciated.
#7
Other possible causes of pinging is too lean of a mixture, such as vacuum leaks, faulty o2 sensor ect. Excess carbon build-up on the pistons and head causes pinging. A seafoam treatment through the pcv should cure that. Sparkplugs with too high heat range may also cause pinging. You may want to try a colder plug.
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#8
try to retard the timing a couple degrees, and are you checking the timing with the check connector jumped TE1 E1 teminals
#9
Yes, I'm checking my timing properly, the O2 sensor has been replaced and Seafoam is used regularly. I dumped a bottle of Lucas octane booster in yesterday and topped off the tank with 5 gal. of 93 and the ping is gone. I should have known. I raced motorcycles for some time and 110 octane was all I could run without ping. Thanks guys for using common sense when mine failed me.
#10
ive bought some octane booster too...(stp) the bottle says to pour on top of full tank..will that yield the best results? i have been running 93 for my s/c 4runner and still have the ping...hopefully this might help
#11
Someone mentioned that you need to be running higher octane with the mods that you have. I disagree. You are still N/A at stock compression ratio. You *are* flowing much more air through the engine, which means you would run way lean. So then I see that your AFM is adjusted 3 teeth rich. How do you know if this is the proper adjustment? How do you know if that is rich enough? Have you tested your Air/Fuel ratio with a wideband O2 sensor on a dyno?
I think what you have effectively done, with your 93 octane fuel and octane boosters, is applied band-aids to your real problem- A/F ratio. I see that you have retarded your timing also. I don't know about you, but most people that have tuned a healthy N/A engine make efforts to keep the timing at least stock, and often times advance it. If I had your motor, I would expect to still be able to run 87 octane, at a few degrees advanced from stock, and never have pinging.
Get your truck on a dyno and tune the A/F and keep running 87 or at least 89 octane. Your motor will probably last longer if you do.
I think what you have effectively done, with your 93 octane fuel and octane boosters, is applied band-aids to your real problem- A/F ratio. I see that you have retarded your timing also. I don't know about you, but most people that have tuned a healthy N/A engine make efforts to keep the timing at least stock, and often times advance it. If I had your motor, I would expect to still be able to run 87 octane, at a few degrees advanced from stock, and never have pinging.
Get your truck on a dyno and tune the A/F and keep running 87 or at least 89 octane. Your motor will probably last longer if you do.
#12
Contributing Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,078
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From: Bellingham, Washington and Ketchikan, Alaska
Originally Posted by phorensic
Someone mentioned that you need to be running higher octane with the mods that you have. I disagree. You are still N/A at stock compression ratio. You *are* flowing much more air through the engine, which means you would run way lean. So then I see that your AFM is adjusted 3 teeth rich. How do you know if this is the proper adjustment? How do you know if that is rich enough? Have you tested your Air/Fuel ratio with a wideband O2 sensor on a dyno?
I think what you have effectively done, with your 93 octane fuel and octane boosters, is applied band-aids to your real problem- A/F ratio. I see that you have retarded your timing also. I don't know about you, but most people that have tuned a healthy N/A engine make efforts to keep the timing at least stock, and often times advance it. If I had your motor, I would expect to still be able to run 87 octane, at a few degrees advanced from stock, and never have pinging.
Get your truck on a dyno and tune the A/F and keep running 87 or at least 89 octane. Your motor will probably last longer if you do.
I think what you have effectively done, with your 93 octane fuel and octane boosters, is applied band-aids to your real problem- A/F ratio. I see that you have retarded your timing also. I don't know about you, but most people that have tuned a healthy N/A engine make efforts to keep the timing at least stock, and often times advance it. If I had your motor, I would expect to still be able to run 87 octane, at a few degrees advanced from stock, and never have pinging.
Get your truck on a dyno and tune the A/F and keep running 87 or at least 89 octane. Your motor will probably last longer if you do.
#13
sounds like it could be carbon buildup. exhaust and ignition aren't going to make you ping, unless you're running too hot of a plug(as noted above) and it's pre-igniting the mixture. carbon on the pistons or in the head will raise the compression ratio. try running some seafoam through a vacuum line and see if you notice any differences.
with my ignition(accel coil and plugs gapped to .045) it wouldn't ping unless i loaded it up big time -- running 15* of advance. it's almost impossible to make it ping with the factory 8* setting for me, but i'm also running an open chamber head with a lower compression ratio.
with my ignition(accel coil and plugs gapped to .045) it wouldn't ping unless i loaded it up big time -- running 15* of advance. it's almost impossible to make it ping with the factory 8* setting for me, but i'm also running an open chamber head with a lower compression ratio.
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