You can get a tool that measures the drum diameter from the inside then the brake shoes on the outside diameter and match to fit. I know that GM requires us to do it when servicing the parking brake cables.

 

Your right about the lip, but generally from what I have seen, if there is a serious enough lip, more than likely that drum needs to be replaced. Trust me, I've done a bunch of rear brake adjustments using that method. You could also (and I think it was mentioned within this thread) try the peep hole from behind the backing plate and still use a flat head screwdriver to turn the star wheel, you still have to turn the wheel though to feel when the shoe clearance starts to drag. The reason why I take off the drum is we have to report any findings within the brakes that may affect braking such as frayed parking cables, leaking wheel cylinders (noted as seening moisture behind the dust boot), springs that are worn or fallen out of place, measuring shoe thicknes, etc. Plus, by taking a bit of brake clean and spraying down the area, you can help minimize brake noise from dust that accumulates in the enclosure, hence the service name "clean and adjust" rear brakes. My whole reason within this text though is to state that the tool is not required and you can use a simple slim enough flathead screw driver. Hell you can use a thin round knife if you want

Now as far as using a caliper, for example, my Tundra because it has an LSD is extremely difficult to turn the wheel in the rear. It's going to be difficult to try and adjust using the feel method and thus the only way really is to use a caliper and measure drum diameter, subtract factory clearance specs, then set your shoes to get that clearance.

 

OK, now we are going to a very different place. Having professionally worked on cars for many years, I couldn't agree more with the recommendation that the drums be removed for periodic inspection and cleaning of all the internal brake components. I can't begin to count the number of brake service procedures I have done over the years. And I know most brake failures stem from lack of proper servicing.

The gist of this thread, as I understood it, was about a 'quick and easy', don't have to get your hands dirty method of adjusting the rear drum brakes. I guess the root source of my less than enthusastic support for this method comes from this background. I can't help but feel that more than a few people would expect that keeping the brakes 'adjusted' with this method would eliminate the need for proper brake servicing. Don't get me wrong here, I am in not in favor of anyone spending any more money at the dealer than is absolutely necessary. This is one reason I prefer to do most of my own service work. I am also fortunate enough to have the skill and tools needed to do this work. I also know that most people are not as lucky, and must rely on the dealers or professional shops for this work. All I wan't to do is share some of my experience with those that seek advise so that they can hopefully make a more informed decision, which ever way they chose to go. And along the way, I learn something new every day I come here.

 

so.... does anybody know which way to rotate the star wheel? im gonna adjust them up but i dont want to spin the wheel the wrong way

 

If the self adjusting lever is working properly, it will prevent the 'star' wheel from turning in one direction. I am thinking that the lever is on the outboard side of the wheel, and rotates the star wheel in a downward direction to adjust it. If I am right, then when using a brake spoon or screw driver from the rear adjusting hole, you would rotating the wheel up (pushing down on the handle end. It should turn easily in the right direction, and you will hear a ratcheting sound as it turns. It shouldn't be able to turn the other way without releasing the self adjusting lever.

 

ok, so i adjust it the only way that it will go without messing with the lever.

thanks

 

Well I tried and dont feel a difference anywhere....I dunno...I guess I'll just keep doing it the old fashion way.....

BTW to the guy that was getting 28 clicks.....its normal for the pull handle kind to have 30 clicks....if you get in a brand new 04 you can at least get 25 out of it....

 

Hmm... mine haven't been adjusted recently but i just tried to pull as many clicks as i can. I can go 9 before i can no longer click. So i guess i will give this method a shot tomorrow and see what happens.

 

I think that there's a difference between the 3rd generations and the new 04 models. Like i said, in my 3rd gen 4runner i can only get 9 clicks max before i can no longer click no matter how hard i pull up. and it's been a while since i've had my rears adjusted. So... if you can imagine getting 30 clicks, if that were the case on our 3rd generations, then we would literally have no rear brakes! lol.

I think it's just the different generations.

 

Mine (94) can go (and is now) over 30 clicks also.

 

The older models must have finer teeth on the e-brake handle.

 

Ok... i just tried this method. Now when i'm in Park i can pull the handle up about 7 clicks to be sorta tight and then if i pull kinda hard it'll be 8 clicks. Is that ok? I can't get it to tighten anymore.

 

That should be fine. The important thing is that the parking brake holds the vehicle when engaged, and releases completely when not engaged. The amount of 'clicks' it takes is, IMHO, not as important as it working.

 

Unless its so loose that the handle can be all the way up, and still not have a good hold, the you need some real adjustment there.

 

hmm...generally my experience has been that if the shoe clearance is too loose, the feel of the brake is a bit off (as far as depressing the foot pedal), especially in older corollas and camrys. Plus, my old 4Runner also had a clearance problem and the brake feel was also kinda wierd and not firm enough, although there were other issues with it too and to this day, I am still trying to figure it out in that when you change the power steering pump, somehow the rear ABS is connected to that system, I only remember reading about that in my classroom manual, but I need to practice on someone's runner...any volunteers?

 

Just changing my own earlier statments.... I burned up my brake shoes doing the driving in reverse and pulling the e-brakes. You are supposed to only pull the e-brake lever a few times while in park. This came from my shop foreman at work and said my shoes were overly adjusted doing this method.

 

so basically if you use your e-brake often it will stay adjusted?

 

That's what I understand from what he said, but I am going to talk to a Toyota technician sometime next week when I go back to school. There is a former Toyota Tech there who is now a Nissan tech and teacher there. I will also ask some of my GM instructors when I am there and see what everyone says.

 

The proper way for the do-it-yurselfer would be to jack the wheel off the ground (or entire rear end if LSD or lok'r equip't) and use a brake spoon or a snubby flathead to adjust the star wheel from the hole in the drum backing plate. As soon as you feel drag while spinning or moving the wheel back and forth, yur done.

The yanking the parking brake is a manual function that moves the star wheels adjusting arm (thosemechanisms are all connected by cables) and can easily over adjust the pads. IMO this method should be considerd PM to keep the system in working order but it's not a reliable method of proper adjustment.

I'm not a professional mechanic by any means but I DID TAKE MY NEIGHBORS WEED EATER ALL THE WAY APART BY MYSELF!

 

After reading this due to my cable being stretched it seems like there is some real misinformation here.
On the Tacomas from 01 to 04 it is great if you have anywhere between 12 and 18 clicks. Another thing that will allow the brake lever to move out more clicks is cable stretch and that can be adjusted easily too. If you continuely adjust your brakes useing the method described here you are really stretching that cable unnessasarily.
The older vehicles would adjust the brakes just by going in reverse and hitting the brakes on a hardsurfice road or parking lot several times. No need to keep pulling on the "E" brake.
First thing you need to do is make sure the shoes are good and not just count on any adjustments until you do.
Mine front and back brakes are about 2 months old and my cable is stretched just a little so I will adjust it with the cable adjuster under the truck on the drivers side. My brakes work perfectly but a few clicks out of the cable would be great.
In other words if your brakes are stopping you and you have a high pedal, no metal to metal sound and the front brakes aren't heating up then you may just have a stretched cable.