Joker149999

What up guy's? So i'm swapping a TPI 97 vortec in to my 94 runner and I think i have everything correct on the electrical yet it just cranks and won't start I when I pulled the vortec out I pulled the ECM and all the wiring from the fire wall forward, I should have only had to splice a few wires to get it to work with the toyota harness right? Orange is battery feed to the vortec ecm and pink is the ign feed for the vortec right? then as far as the ecm connectors there is blue red black and white. I should only need the red, blue and white connectors right? Any help would be awesome thanks guys

littlecars

I am in the process of doing a 98 4.3/4l60e swap. I have done research and buying the parts for about 3 years now. It is still a work in progess and is not even close to done but what I do know is you do need the black conector. The red blue and white go to the motor/tranny. the black goes to the cab. It is for a lot of things( A/C, CC, service engion soon light, obd2 comunications fuel pump relay, ect)most of these you dont need. I dont know exactly how this all works, it is going to take a lot of guessing and checking i think. I have notes somewhere on what wire I think need to be hooked to what.

I am new to a late model swap, not a expert. so hopefully someone else respondes.

86toylet

Is there fuel pressure at the motor ?

Some years also had Anti-Theft, in the ECU and had to be burned out of the program.

If you guys send me the ECU pinout of the TPI, I will help you.

Not sure if these match your ECU's

littlecars

I have the pinout for my 98:

1. fuel pump relay
2.
3. vss output( I think this is for the CC)
4. vss output( for the chevy speedometer)
5. MIL control ( I think I hook this to the toyota check engion light)
6.
7.
8.
9.
10. brake signal(I think this is for the CC or maybe the tranny lockup)
11. serrial data( I think this is for the OBD2 scanner)
12.
13. Ignition+ voltage
14. serial data( also for the OBD2)
15.
16. EGR valve control
17. Ignition+ voltage
18. Ignition+ voltage
19. 4wd wheel lock input
20. EGR vavle low
21.
22. CPP switch signal
23. 4wd low signal
24. Cruise engaged signal.

I have the transfere case bolted to the tranny already.

Also how will the alternater work with the stock wiring harness? it looks pretty simple, just hook up the wiring harness and the big wire goes to the battery+.

Did you use the stock chevy fuse block for powering everything?

Hears a few more questions.

How did you wire up the "plug-in" for the obd2 scanner? I traced the wires and it looks like it talks to a bunch of stuff I am not using. Or do I even need this? when I have a problem, I can troubleshoot it without a scanner in If have to.

Did you have any problems with the VATS ( vehical anti theft system) If I just snip off the wires and throw the box away will it throw a code? I think the VATS just makes the ecu not power up the fuel pump. I plan on powering it up another way, so If this is all it does will it be a problem?

Will I have to get the ecu reflashed? I know nothing about newer computerized cars, I have done a ton of searching on different forums for this and knowone gives the same information. I would think it would drive better if it was flashed becouse of the different tire size. witch maked different shift points. I also put a shift kit in the tranny and I had to replace the crank posistion sencer. Is this going to throw it all off?

Thanks
Brent

littlecars

Did some more research. the PCM(powertrain control modual) needs to talk to the BCM(body control modual). The VATS (vehical anti theft device). without the VATS and the BCM the PCM will not let the motor run. I am working on a solution to this. If you still have the BCM out of the donor truck get it and it will help you out. If you dont have it(like me) it might be a big problem. I will let you know what I come up with.