Philrunner

Hey all, apologies if there are already threads on this, but I am contemplating rebuilding my 22re out of my 94 4runner. I am having trouble finding info about when a block does/doesn't need to be sent to machine shop during a rebuild. I have watched several rebuild videos where the engine was simply torn apart and pieced back together with a rebuild kit. However I often see people discussing sending the block to a machine shop or even just getting a refurbished block. Seems most folks doing engine rebuilds/doing write ups have enough understanding of the process to know when it is necessary. Unfortunately I do not. I would be doing this rebuild as a learning experience (otherwise this will likey just be sold as a parts truck), but as the machining seems to potentially be a big cost, I want to know what I am getting into. Another aspect I am looking for advice on is when to order parts for the rebuild. Seems like it will be hard to tell what exactly on the engine will need replacing until I have it somewhat disassembled, but it would be nice to order parts before I get things too torn apart. What are some things I can check for while the engine is still in the truck?

Any input appreciated, Cheers!

millball

Engine must be disassembled, and precision measuring instruments used to determine cylinder bore size and out of round conditions.

Same for crankshaft dimensions. Only after these measurements have been made, can it be determined what machine work might be required.

Suitable parts cannot be sourced until any needed oversizes are determined

Is your truck running now?? Why does it require rebuild???

Philrunner

"Engine must be disassembled, and precision measuring instruments used to determine cylinder bore size and out of round conditions.

Same for crankshaft dimensions. Only after these measurements have been made, can it be determined what machine work might be required."

I assume then this is all taken care of by the machine shop itself. I see why people say you need a good trustworthy shop.

This was my daily but has been sitting for a year. I noticed a small amount of froth under the oil cap (only during the winter), which I understand can indicate a coolant leak. On top of this I had an engine light for running lean (though it would never overheat). My radiator blew out and I overheated it. The compression is absurdly low (90-120 psi) but somehow it still runs (without a radiator I only run it for about 30 seconds). This all happened within a few months and at the time I didn't have the money or time to deal with it. Its just sitting in my driveway so I figure I'd like to give it a go, as it's not going anywhere otherwise. Ideally I would hope to get this done under $1500, but obviously it could really depend on how worn out things are in there. I'm willing to put in whatever elbow grease I can, but obviously I have alot to learn.

mechkw

It would depend on what condition the cyl walls are in. If they are in good shape and the engine was not overheated, Personally I would have no problem running a hone through the cylinders and putting on a set of fresh rings and rod bearings and t-chain kit. But that is me and I've been building engines for over 30 years. The money is getting the cyl head done correctly.