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The black hi-pressure hose gets the right angle connector at the box end and gets routed low under the fan shroud.
The low pressure blue hose get routed high and goes over the top of the radiator.
Notice the tiny u-joint....the "c" on the right side is pointed at the engine in the 2 o'clock position if you look at it from the steering wheel point of view.....
....and it's about the same on this u-joint here off the steering column ....pointing at the 2 o'clock position. That puts these u-joints "in phase
with each other" and I shouldn't get any weird oscillations or knots/hard spots in the turning of the steering wheel.
The blue hose will go over the top as shown here....the black hi-pressure one is going low....45 degree connector on the power steering pump end.
I have to repair the damage I did to the upper part of the motor mounts from torching off the IFS bracketry
in the beginning so I did some measurements and found that I could box in the existing frame mount nicely
with a simple mostly rectangular piece of 3/16" thick plate. Dimensions are shown scribbled to the right of
the plate.Actually, best to have top measurement of 2.6" across the top and keep the 3.5" on the bottom
run.....the height should stay at 4". 3/16 plate seems about perfect considering the MM material is unbelievably thin.
This is my Miller 185.....about 30 pounds there of .030 steel wire.
Bought it locally back in 1999....paid about 1100 big ones at the time.
These are the settings I used for the most part to weld the braces on and also some further strengthening
of the MM.
Drivers side MM....... had some big gaps to fill in here that are not so obvious.....even had to drop a bolt
in the trough then weld on top of it.
Drivers side MM....... some really big single pass welds down the sides of the MM....seems the factory was
kinda stingy with the welds....not me. Also, you can see the plate welded fully on the MM. Welded very
securely to the bottom of the frame....makes the MM very rigid and unlikely to "bend" in the event
off a SUDDEN stop.
Drivers side MM....... I recommend this plate in combination with the 2 vertical monster welds for all Tacomas.....
especially if you have a manual tranny and a gutsy engine. 1st gens do not have the driver's side motor mount
caving in issue that 2005,2006 models(2nd gens) do but it's still better to be safe than sorry.
The brace plate is real simple to make. I just noticed it would be easy for water to collect in the bottom of
the MM....to fix that just grind a big notch in the bottom of the plate for good drainage.
Passenger side MM....this side had a bit more overall damage to the MM so I used some 3/16" angle iron. You can't
see it but there was quite a trough near the MM here also.....nothing a 5/16" bolt could fill in with some weld help.
Now it's extremely tough.
The welds to the inside of the frame were very difficult to get into position for....even for a 5' 7" guy like me. Sparks fly....
small molten pieces sometimes fall but when you have a good bead going sometimes the pain is not a prob and you keep
welding. I go thru alot of socks.
Looks like you could use some leather socks.... you just gave me an idea. Thanks ZUK!!!
Or an old pair of cowboy boots.
hub/rotor assembly is on.....minimal grease for the inner/outer axle bearings at this point.
Manual hubs are what I really wanted.....so nice to have them again
Brand new caliper assemblies went right on no issues
Everything fit and lined up.....
With tires on and setting back on the ground I could see that Craig was right.....there was a lot of lift there and it
will take minimum 35" tires to make it look right.
I jacked the rear up to simulate 2.5" lift and now the truck is level per the level gauge. Putting on 4" leafpacks(thanks to Craig again) and it should have the right stance.
The process of removing the old leafs and packing the new ones on begins...
The 4" packs are longer, especially in the front part. The bottom packs started life as Allpro 3" Tacoma packs. I have modified
them a bit by removing about 4 leafs but that is only possible by having support coils.
You gotta move the front spring hanger forward 2 inches huh? Have you decided on what to do with the crossmember yet? Slowly but surely it's coming along. I need to come over with some black semi-flat and touch up your frame.... and sliders. ...
Yep....passenger side hanger is tacked forward 2 inches. Not sure if I have to move the shackle hanger forward 1 inch ....once I finish the driver side then the story will unfold
...and there is nothing wrong with them sliders....they have helped me out on the trail and once or twice on the pavement. Mercedes was driven by a Korean
mid 40's woman....last name of Nygen or something like that. I am so glad I had the Allpro sliders with the kick-out. That kick-out performed beautifully.
See the silver paint on my bar?
And damage to my rig was ZERO.
She got the ticket.
Officer kept telling her she has to LEARN TO DRIVE in the USA or something like that.
Somebody should contact AllPro and show them these pics OK to use them in their slider ad.
Been very busy with the rest of my life it seems so had limited time working on the rear leaf packs but I did go down to Aces Hardware and
buy 6 large bolts for $24
Had a few minutes to look at the front 9.5" 3rd that will eventually be going in....
The ring gear seemed very loose....no preload at all. It jiggled back and forth way too easy.
Not only that, I could feel and SEE play in the other plane and that means it's coming apart for a more thorough looksie.
Bearing caps are marked and removed....kind of dirty and gritty so the ether will clean everything up shortly
1 full can of 14 oz ether and all is fairly clean. And now I can tell by spinning the free wheelin'
pinion that it also needs some pinion preload added.
Carrier bearing races showed no signs of fretting or chunking out so they are ok to re-use.
It's always(almost always) a good idea to replace old
worn bearings even if they don't appear visually bad.....but bear in mind this is the front....
they are only turning at very slow speeds for a few
hours at a time due to manual locking hubs so I'm good with that. The rear diff is much
more critical. Besides, this is an awesome 9.5 ring gear and
I don't think I have much to worry about.....I'm more concerned with the mini-truck sized
birfs even though they have been cryo treated.
Thought I would just give it a go and wing it.....take it down....cleans the grit off....new seal....oil the bearings and set some decent preload with the
well used bearings and see the pattern fall right into place like it normally does with a used gear setup.
Bearings all had wear on them but no chunking and such.
Even though I re-used the crush, it took tremendous effort to crush it the needed distance....just goes to show the pinion bearings have ALOT of
wear on them.
A little ding will prevent it from ever loosening on its own. 6 in/lb of pinion bearing preload as measured with the little pendulum torq wrench.
75 ft/pounds on the 4 bearing cap bolts.
Cranked in a good amount of carrier bearing preload (6 in/lb contribution on the pinion flange end as measured)
DANG!!!! This drive pattern shows it's wayyy too shallow. Guess the large inner pinion bearing wore itself down deeper in the hole than I thought it would.
Coast....lousy. Gonna have to tear it down again and add about .008" to the pinion depth.....
Ya. This is out of a 1985 FJ60 and it was so loosey goosey that I don't know how it survived. Hard to tell if the carrier bearing adjusters were ever disturbed or not. I'll measure the working deck height of the old inner pinion bearing and compare it with the new and if I see about 8 thou difference. If so, then that's the cause of it. OLD worn out oil will cause bearings to wear and recede down in height. Oil that's been left in there 30 years or so.
OK....so I tore it back down....really didn't take very long. Measured the pinion shim at .041" which is a bit unusual I think. I was expecting to see
about .048~.050". Early model 9.5" 3rds were around .014" but .041 is kinda in limbo land. So I added .009" to the 041 to get a nice typical 050.
Made the pinion preload at about 4 in/lb. set the BL to 007~008 with good carrier bearing preload and ran a paint test.
Drive side......not bad....might be slight shallow or exact. Adding another 005 will PULL it toward the toe and deeper.
Coast- heavy toe. Adding the extra .005" to the depth will PUSH it away from the toe a bit. I will tear it down once more
and see if I can improve it.
Drive with the .005" addition...added to the previous .009" extra shim....for a total combined shim of .055"
Looks spot on......favoring the toe a little as expected.
Coast- says it's plenty deep enough.....don't want to go any deeper based on this pattern. Looks like it moved away from the toe as hoped for.
These are well used gears and they look pretty good overall.
3rd is ready to bolt in.....used bearings and all.
Yes, Craig.....I know I tend to procrastinate a little
But I am making more progress. The rear has been lifted 4 inches with the new leaf-packs compliments
of Craig's left over stock.
Front shot of it on wheels.....
A bit more air under the wheelwell than I expected
but it is what it is. 22" rim to wheelwell.
The rear wheelwell....19 1/4" rim to wheelwell.
the 4 inch leafpacks was the answer. Simplistic shackles are over 7" between centers so I really
don't want to make them any longer.....but that might change.
Yes, I know about the gap on the leaf bushing shown so obviously there that will be corrected soon
enough. Notice the wide stance of the factory frame
mounts for the shackle....That makes it very stable and if I want an even longer shackle I can
probably get away with it.
Driveshaft is on....
Driveshafts is exposed 2 more inches.....can almost
see the splines. Might consider a "spacer".
Also, there is some driveshaft angle so I might try
9" shackles to help point the pumpkin up.
Even with the 4" lift, the emergency brakes cables is
very relaxed. This is due to moving the cable to the
OUTSIDE of the gas-tank bracket seen here and also
flipping the cable clamp downwards which lowers the
cable about 4 inches.
Now, leaving the rear on wheels and basically complete means now I can turn my attention back
to the front end. Got the hardware I need to finish
the felt wipers on the knuckles and decide on the
front brake lines and the routing/clamping of it.
Jeez.....those shackles were only 5.4" between centers. Found a pair that I made some time ago and they are
7" between centers. Here's what they look like installed with the proper "spacer bushings"
I just added those mid shackle braces....metal is still warm.
Raised the back up another inch and the pinion angle is good now.
That's for sure....nice to have it on the rubber.
Been thinking....and researching tires. Not a mudder but more of a AT. Nitto seems good....Yokohama seems like a good one. I believe the Nittos generally require very little lead weight....anybody confirm that? Thinking LT315/70R17 which is a 35"
04-04-2015, 03:23 PM
