Tech Tim sorry for killing you on the IFS and larger tires, ha ha, let me revise some of what I said. I'm not saying going bigger than 35s can't be done! You and jeepkilla are right in saying IFS is new territory. I am more of a desert rat and as such have keep with 33" tires. I mounted 35s on the Fordota but I did't like the high center of gravity and rotating mass. For high speeds and handling bigger is not better! On my 4Runner I like 35s. Clearances are ample with the combo kit. Long arms and a drop bracket kit is a good direction to go big.

What I said about the 7.5" diff being a week link may be a brain washed miss conception? I've been ingrained to believe this over the years but personally I have not grenaded one of mine. I can say I snapped T-100 CV axle shaft. I think that was a fluke as I could see a defect in the steel. And another factor that caused the failure was V8 torque in 4-low on a really steep hill climb.

I have only built one 7.5 diff and I was mostly a spectator in the process. I completely respect your opinion from years of experience of diff building. I am no expert in that field.

My experience with 35s on the 4Runner has been nothing but positive. I suspect it can clear 37s. The drivetrain may handle 37s as well? The RCD axles sound like a good upgrade! Don't you have a beefy ARB 7.5 carrier? That is probably a big step up from the open unit I am running. Your doubler transfer case is also a really nice up grade.

Here are a few pictures of some rigs with Blazeland and 35s or bigger. I'll see if I can find a few more.

 

Here is a picture of my 1985 Live Axle rig next to my 4 Runner. The 85' has a 4" suspension lift and a 2" body lift with 33" tires. The 4 Runner has the long arms, a 4" drop bracket kit and a 1" body lift. It has 35" tires. As you can see the 4 Runner has some room to go bigger. I know someone with 37s, I'll try to borrow them for some test fitment and photos.

 

SAS it... IFS just burns through more time and parts than anything else...once you lift your IFS and run bigger tires every other part goes to hell fast, idler arms, balljoints, tierod ends, everything. Once she's SASed you can leave it alone pretty much forever unless you break axle shafts and what not

 

Fixed it for you!

 

BlazeN8

On the top pic what size tires are those, and how was that even accomplished?
Bottom pic, that more realistic and sweet in my opinion. Are those skinny 35's?

 

I got a 92 pickup and want to do a SAS and have a friend that has a 82 pickup would it be a good buy for 600 dollars for the Axel and various parts

 

I wouldn't buy a whole truck for $600 to get a couple of hundred dollars of obsolete parts. The housing on a 1982 lacks gusseting and you will have to buy stuff to beef it up. And the internals from brakes to axles are not going to be strong like the upgraded stuff now available in the aftermarket. Using the steering linkage from the 82 wouldn't make any sense as you have the IFS Box all ready on the 92. You are half way there to a Hy-Steer!

 

On the top pic that is a YT member. His name is Cassidy and he has a build thread here on YT that is quite extensive with lots of photos and videos.

The lower photo truck runs a less common size tire that I looked up a while back and I believe it was something like 36" Q size or something.

I took my 4 Runner up the canyon today and took a couple of photos. I posted a bunch of new stuff on my build thread. Here is one photo I'll post here, the rest you will have to see on my thread.

 

If it runs I'd buy it for 600 you then could part the engine and various other parts like rear 3rd member power steering box if it has one possibly tranny and make back the money you spent and then some and have a solid axle for your truck and could use the rear leafs off it to do a RUF swap upper gusset for the axle is only like 25 bucks I think and all I've done to mine and I thrash only my rig and have no bandage and my axle is an 82.

 

Well after all of this thought and knowledge coming together, I decided to purchase a Solid Front Axle out of an 85 truck for $300 from Yota Jims. Axle is in great shape .Called them and asked them to hold the axle for a week which they did. They are my favorite Toyota resource. Big thanks to Yota Jims. Now to save money for the swap which will be done by addicted offroad. I plan on running 38's eventually. Gotta love Colorado and all the Toyota resources, as well as the trails. Thanks for all who chimed in on this thread for advice. Keep up the awesome work with these extreme IFS builds.

 

Do you know if Yoda Jim's ships parts out?

 

JK99, I lived in Lakewood, CO for 14years. I went to Bear Creak HS. As a kid went camping and wheeling in the rockies, it really is a great area! I think wanting to run 37s and the type of wheeling you have at hand, a SAS is a logical decision. It would be great if you could continue on with your build thread, I'd like to see how it turns out. You mentioned $300 for the axle, keep a running tally on what the SAS is going to cost. I always hear guys on YT talk about how inexpensive SAS is but I never actually see the numbers. Especially when its farmed out to a fab shop.

 

I may be going through a shop now for the welding and plasma cutting, at least. I figure the shop I'm going to knows what they're doing, as I've seen a couple rigs they've SAS'd, so I ought to be able to have hangers and shackle located correctly and I can turn wrenches and lift stuff myself. Not precisely what you're looking for Nate, but it may also give you an idea of cost of a pieced together kit instead of buying a full kit from TG or Allpro.

I'll see if I can't find my receipts, but I got most stuff on sale, so I'll probably list retail prices too for comparison.

While I couldn't find all my receipts, nothing was majorly discounted in my case except the axle itself.

Axle+lots of miscellaneous parts needed for another project(this includes the springs being used)-$100

Sky parts
Hanger kit-189
High steer-400
U bolt flip-60
Axle truss-29
Diff guard-39
Bumpstops/extensions-69
Pitman arm adapter to run stock pitman arm(maybe not needed)-32
Steering stabilizer kit-69
Knuckle rebuild kit w/bearings-178
1.5" spacers-79

Marlin parts
Knuckle gussets-79
Brake hard lines-12
Poly spring bushings-16
O rings for Aisin hubs-8

LowRange parts
DT 12" shocks-80
Aisin hub gaskets-12
Flat pitman arm(probably using instead of stock pitman)-72
TG poly knuckle wipers-47
IFS steering box mount plates-42
Motor mount plates-10
Ford shock towers-34

Wheeler's Offroad 3 leaf overload packs(hoping this stiffens the stock '83 rears enough without lifting it sky high)-120

So my total so far, adding $40 that I gave my buddy to weld the armor on the axle already, is... $1816.

I figure what I've saved on some of the parts is a wash with cost of supplies such as paint, grinder wheels, misc nuts and bolts, etc. I've gotten a few premium parts here and there that could've been gotten cheaper, but it still gives you an idea of why a kit is cheaper than piece by piece, like I've done.

 

Thanks! Any idea of the labor time or how long your rig is out of commission? I know a typical shop rate can be around $75 an hour. If your paying a shop to do a Long Arm install its typically a 4 hour labor rate. Then there is a fee for a computerize alignment that is around $75. Basically you drop your rig off in the morning and pick it up after work. Its done in a day.

 

I'm not sure yet, but these guys sometimes will discount their rate a little if you have cash in hand. Small shop, but they do awesome work. Mine also will be a little more work, as I'm replacing the front crossmember with a reinforced Sky hanger. My crossmember is bent, and as I'm sure most realize, it's pretty flimsy. So that may affect the shop costs some.

This is what's going to replace my front crossmember

 

Well, finally got around to calling the shop in Ridgecrest, he said it's billed as 8 hours, and he told me worst case scenario pricing is $800. That's if they do it from start to finish with my parts provided, not just doing the hanger and shackle tubes and I pretty much do the wrenching. They'd really rather not do that, and that's understandable, since they would normally tack, install, check, then fully weld.

Makes me really want to learn to weld good enough myself!

 

For sure pick it up for 600. I am about to purchase an 83 for the front axle. Think about the engine block, transmission, transfer case, rear axle, springs, frame, extra metal to scrap out. You can def get your money back. You can basically get your axle for free