hey everyone just as i thought its proving imposible to find a solid axle out of a yota so i was hoping there was another route to go? what are all my options because all im waiting on is an axle

 

they are all over craigs list www.craigslist.com go to auto parts search for toyota

 

ya iv been trying to search there the only problem is i cant buy a whole doner truck becasue i dont have room...and all the ones iv seen being parted out the axles are already gone

 

You can learn more about Dana options... I think a Dana 44 will work. Just need a PS diff drop. You'll also probably have to do a bit more tweaking using a SAS kit from one of the known vendors.

Maybe try branching out in your search to neighboring states Craig Lists or hitting local salvage yards every weekend. They can be hard to find in certain parts of the country.

If you are really looking to go all the way, and have a good sized chunk of change, you could look into using a Diamond axle housing and then building up from there. 30 spline Longfields, chromo hub gears, ARP knuckle studs, ARB locker... you get the idea.

That would give you a pretty incredible front axle... but it's not going to be cheap. If you plan on running aggressively on tires over 37" it might be worth your while. But then some other Dana options start to make sense as well.

 

phew that does sound like an amazing axle! haha but i think for a long long time the biggest im going to be able to go is 35"...but i will look into the dana option thank you very much! and i will deff keep looking for yota axles just to avoid more work haha

 

dude, it doesn't take much to find one.

www.car-part.com is where I picked up my 85 axle.

 

ohhhh thanks for the link man!

 

so exatcly how much (EXTRA) work has to be done to slap a D44 under the front and rear?

 

probably more than you want to deal with. the SAS is a difficult enough job without throwing wrenches in the gears.

 

To be honest, I am not exactly sure. I did my SAS with a Marlin kit and a Toyota axle. Maybe another YT'r will post on how they did a swap with a Dana.

Your best bet is going to be searching a site like Pirate, as they generally do some really advanced fabrication over there. However, I wouldn't post the questions you have without thoroughly searching the FAQ's and archived threads... or you will most likely be aggressively flamed.

I would agree with Chimmike though... if this is your first swap, using a kit and a Toyota axle is going to be your best bet. You will have enough to worry about even going that way. It's not rocket science, but there are a lot of subtle details that if done incorrectly, your rig will not operate like you are hoping.

 

I t shouldnt be any different for a d44 compared to a yota. Just order the kit for the one you use. I am using a wagoneer d44 with sky manufacturings full width brackets.

 

wait so just order the full width brackets and its like bolting up a yota axle??? no custom work?



and thanks everyone i will deff. keep looking for the toyota axle...however im thinking about gearing to...im at 4:56 right now pushing 32'S BARLEY...I HAVE THE 3.0 V6 and a huge lack in torqe whitch im hopeing is normal lol...i want to end up on 35's and the guy at my local 4x4 shop said that i could probly push 35's with that gearing but it wouldent be pretty...and with the sas i cant exatcly bring myself to spend so much more on gearing both axles to 5:29...so does anyone know if the D44 comes in an ideal gearing for that?

thanks

 

This may come as a reality check... but you are going to have to spend some serious coin to do a SAS correctly.

You'll have to regear for 35's, I'd suggest 5.29's. Even if you do find a Dana product with gearing close to what you need, you will have to match the rear diff as well... unless of course you never plan on putting the rig into 4WD when you are done.

Unfortunately, the cost of doing an SAS is not really in the swap itself. It's the gearing, tires, lockers, armor, etc... that's what it takes to really justify and get the benefits from a SAS.

Perhaps just beefing up and tweaking your current IFS might be the ticket for now. IFS will take you to some pretty incredible places, and will allow you to build up your truck slowly as budget allows.

My .02.

 

lmao well the problem with my ifs is that the torsion bar killed that bracket where the top of the A arm comes in and the motor mount and stuff....clean ripped it off the frame.... so sas is really my own option. i was always planning to do a sas just not this soon haha...ya if i run a D44 i would run a D44 in the rear too...and im hoping it wont have to be taken out of 4wd haha just kidding...but im just wondering if the cost of running 2 D44's would equal the cost of gearing 2 axles down to 5:29?

 

Can you post a pic of your IFS damage? Sounds pretty intense. Could you maybe buy a new upper arm? I am not clear on what broke. Can't even re-weld the bracket in anyway? How did you manage to tear it off in the first place?

Actually, physically removing the IFS from your truck while driving may actually be one of the best arguments I have ever heard for a SAS.

I think if you go with a Dana product, you are going to have to do a lot of fab. That is not a bad thing, it you are prepared and have the skills, tools and workspace for it.

Marlin or similar SAS kits still take a lot of fab work to install, but basically eliminate the need to design anything. Swapping out front and rear axles will require some extensive design work to make sure everything is going to fit together. Probably considerably more fab work as well, just taking the rear axle swap into account.

I am thinking though that you will probably not be able to find Dana axles with the correct factory gearing for your 3.0. I believe it's basically a given that all axles will need to be re-geared for the application.... but I may be wrong... I know very little about Dana axles or gearing.

 

With a Dana axle, you need to get a passenger side diff (not common) then close to the width. If width or centering is off, cost of narrowing housing and cutting down axles. Then 5 vs. 6 lug is a factor as is spring perch width. Then figure custom brake hoses (SAE-metric) and custom driveshaft (Dana u-joint yoke at one one, Toyota flange at the other end) then work out the steering. Will need a semi-custom setup which I think a few places make now. And then gearing, 4.88 is the highest matching ratio. Above that and there are no exact gearing matches. There are probably more little gotchas as well.

Here is another front axle option:
- http://allprooffroad.com/index.php?o...ask=view&id=53

 

Roger has it right.

D44 is not really the cheaper option.

Gearing a toy front to match the rear is 400. If you get it done at a shop that charges a steep fee. Lots of times you can get bargins with folks to set them up cheaper.

toy axles run 150.

If you go full width, you need to widen the rear as well.

 

[QUOTE=Elvota;50577754]Can you post a pic of your IFS damage? Sounds pretty intense. Could you maybe buy a new upper arm? I am not clear on what broke. Can't even re-weld the bracket in anyway? How did you manage to tear it off in the first place?

Actually, physically removing the IFS from your truck while driving may actually be one of the best arguments I have ever heard for a SAS.



lmao im good like that haha just kidding the embarassing part is that it wasnt even off road! haha it was about 5 min. into a tahoe trip...didnt even make it to the freeway.... thank god! oh thanks i thought it was a great SAS argument! haha il post pictures in the next couple days but bassically where the engine mount upper a arm and shock mount and torsion bar come into a welded box around the frame ripped apart....mainly because a week befor i broke the shock mount off of that...lol litterally metal came off with the shock...and a week of driving around with that and the torsion bar just decided it would yank that very important mount off. not to mention that the right front fell down and the engine came up and the belt drive cut through the power steering hose...fun...NOT! and dented my hood so i limped it back to my friends house a couple miles away and by limped i mean litterally dragging a tire....ouch! haha but il get pics up dude

oh and apparently to fix the ifs the cost would be about equal and there would be high risk of this happening again so i said screw that...and on a lst note i HATE torsion bars....they broke my rig and i cut and skinned every single knuckle and finger trying to get them off the car

 

4Crawler you were a HUGE help thank you SOOOOO much!

 

I used a custom D44 pinion flange to mate to a toyota driveshaft, that is another option.

Off the top of my head I would think a 44 out of a late 70's Waggy would be your best bet width wise and pass drop diff. More research needs to be done here but that will start you off.

a lot of the toy crowd that runs 44 fronts and toy rear with large tires have to run 5.29 rear and 5.38 front because as 4Crawler said 4.88 is the highest ratio that still matches.

The brake hose thing is not a huge deal. This is normally taken care of because the calipers use banjo fitting and you just get metric banjo lines and use a standard thread banjo bolt. Not a huge deal...

Expect to have to regear any 44 you come across. Mine had 2.73 gears in it! Waggies of that era (as the one I pulled my axle out of) were available with the AMC 401 big block V8. Keep in mine there is a carrier break with the 44 so if you happen across one geared as mine was and you would like to use a lunchbox locker such as a lockrite you will need a new carrier because the carrier that has the 2.73s mounted on it will not work with 4.88s. Also you will probably want to replace the u-joints, ball joints, wheel bearings, carrier and pinion bearings and all associated seals especially if this is going to be a daily driver (although this should be done regardless IMHO). Also factor in there are 2 special tools needed to work on Dana 44 axles. One is for the spindle nuts and the other is for sleeve on the top ball joint. These sockets can sometime be hard to locate so if you are going this route make sure you don't wait to get a hold of these tools.

Also remember if you want to run high steering (and why wouldn't you) you will need at least one new knuckle. Oh yes because 44s as they sit are not ready for high steering setups like a toy axle is. You will need a machined chevy flat top knuckle or one of the trick new castings that off road companies have out now which are more pricey but easier and better.

This axle will be spring under so you will need to preform a spring over on it so factor in new spring perches. Welding a spring perch on the cast pumpkin found on a 44 is fun too. I found drilling down to the tube 3 times and doing fill welds on the pumkin side and then going wide and attatching to the tube itself tube side to be the best way in addition to pre and post heating. Never had a problem with the perches and I was 109:1.

Also with a 44 you will not be able to go with a kit because of the slight different perch width you will likely encounter so factor in making your own kit.

Did I mention that 44s have less ground clearance?

Use a toy axle and save yourself the head ache unless you are really stoked up to go the 44 route.