Will Optima batteries "sulfate" (sulphation)?
#1
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Will Optima batteries "sulfate" (sulphation)?
I recently bought one of these...
(click for info)
Needed a battery charger, Got this one for $50, has a cool 100amp "engine start" mode.
Anyway... one of the features it has is a battery reconditioning mode - this is where you inject a high fequency signal into a battery to shake loose and disintegrate sulfate particles that form on the cells through normal use.
But I was wondering... Are Optima batteries any less prone to this happening in the first place? Searching around brings up some marketing babble, mostly from folks selling reconditioners, but I couldn't find any mention on Optima's site.
(click for info)
Needed a battery charger, Got this one for $50, has a cool 100amp "engine start" mode.
Anyway... one of the features it has is a battery reconditioning mode - this is where you inject a high fequency signal into a battery to shake loose and disintegrate sulfate particles that form on the cells through normal use.
But I was wondering... Are Optima batteries any less prone to this happening in the first place? Searching around brings up some marketing babble, mostly from folks selling reconditioners, but I couldn't find any mention on Optima's site.
#2
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i dont see how that works since DC signals are a straight signal, and "frequencies" are generally refered to with talking about AC signals. i hope they arent putting an AC current through a battery
#3
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Originally Posted by L33T35T 4Runner
i dont see how that works since DC signals are a straight signal, and "frequencies" are generally refered to with talking about AC signals. i hope they arent putting an AC current through a battery
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Another way that chargers, hi end boat inverter/chargers, condition batteries is to literally cook them, a high voltage high amp, slowly dropping to high voltage lower amp for a preset time. You then refill your batteries and you should have your plates equalized...
I dont beleive this is possible/necessary with a optima, its not a lead acid battery.
Small side not on the reliability of optimas....I have the yellow top. It is now in my 3rd rig to have it. ITS IS THE BEST BATTERY EVER. I bought it in 1999. In the spring of 04 I went to alaska for 6 weeks and left my dome light on. As you can imagine the battery was dead, .010 volts.. it took 3 battery chargers before one of them realized it was actually a battery. After 24 hours of charging it started my rig. It hasn't gone dead yet, 2 years later. This is one tough battery.
I dont beleive this is possible/necessary with a optima, its not a lead acid battery.
Small side not on the reliability of optimas....I have the yellow top. It is now in my 3rd rig to have it. ITS IS THE BEST BATTERY EVER. I bought it in 1999. In the spring of 04 I went to alaska for 6 weeks and left my dome light on. As you can imagine the battery was dead, .010 volts.. it took 3 battery chargers before one of them realized it was actually a battery. After 24 hours of charging it started my rig. It hasn't gone dead yet, 2 years later. This is one tough battery.
#5
I got the same charger Mark...for half the price at Target on sale.
Basically just a charger for my Yellow Tops to keep them fully charged, to check their charge...and for my cheap neighbors to borrow.
Basically just a charger for my Yellow Tops to keep them fully charged, to check their charge...and for my cheap neighbors to borrow.
#6
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Originally Posted by AH64ID
I dont beleive this is possible/necessary with a optima, its not a lead acid battery.
http://www.optimabatteries.com/publi...fety_data.html
The reason I question if sulphation is even an issue is because of the huge amount of surface area in the battery. Though, sulphation is a natural side effect of the chemical process which is generating electricity in an L/A battery, so I figure that it _will_ happen, I just don't know that it's _as much_ of an issue as with a normal "plate" battery.
#7
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Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
I got the same charger Mark...for half the price at Target on sale.
But I tripped over The Sportman's Guide which had (has!) it for $50 or $45 if you're a "member". It's definitely worth $50.
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