I keep blowing the fuseable link for am1
#1
I keep blowing the fuseable link for am1
So this just started the other day on my 94 T100 4x4 with a 3vze and 5 speed manual... I blew the fuseable link in the engine compartment fuse block for am1... It was a clean break the first time i did it so i replaced it and didn't think much about it... Then it blew again... Only thing is i don't actually see a break it just seems to of shriveled up a little still connected almost just looks corroded like its old... I also noticed that am2 appears the same way but the truck still runs without changing am2 but am1 being blown keeps it from starting... I'm trying to determine what might be causing this and at the same time i wonder if it has anything to do with why i'm getting around 12 mpg with a 3vze... I changed plugs wires and distributor cap and the motor still sounds like it misses when it idles after it has warmed up... Feel free to comment i need all the help i can get...
#2
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
well if it keeps blowing you have a massive current draw someplace.
Is the wire off the Alternator B terminal shorted or rubbed through?? Any of the wires off the alternator.
Is the Charge light on at all??
The starter cable is it rubbed through??
Starter Shorted out?? Alternator ??
I would look close at those things you are having a large amount of current draw.
Good luck
Is the wire off the Alternator B terminal shorted or rubbed through?? Any of the wires off the alternator.
Is the Charge light on at all??
The starter cable is it rubbed through??
Starter Shorted out?? Alternator ??
I would look close at those things you are having a large amount of current draw.
Good luck
#3
Something I wanted to add is that you can check the main wires from the battery to their ending points, like take the ground wire for example. Look at the battery negative connection, see if it is corroded if so clean it. Then follow the wire all the way down where it is bolted to the chassis, look for cracks, swelling of the cable (i've seen this in a few cases of autos) for corrosion spots inside of cable housing, and last while you are at it unbolt the cable from the chassis and shine up the connector on the wire and shine up the chassis itself. If the cable has the corrosion inside it GET A NEW ONE!!!
Next follow the red/hot/positive cable to each point of contact. Look for the above as well. As far making sure all contact points are secure and not dull, greasy, or loose (sorry i did not add these for the negative instructions). Not too sure on this but some vehicles have a starter solenoid, if you do might wanna check that it is connected really well. Other then that I have nothing else to add.
Hope this helps to everyone's advice for ya,
B. :wabbit::jessica: <-- my own little yota camp going on lol
Next follow the red/hot/positive cable to each point of contact. Look for the above as well. As far making sure all contact points are secure and not dull, greasy, or loose (sorry i did not add these for the negative instructions). Not too sure on this but some vehicles have a starter solenoid, if you do might wanna check that it is connected really well. Other then that I have nothing else to add.
Hope this helps to everyone's advice for ya,
B. :wabbit::jessica: <-- my own little yota camp going on lol
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#8
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 13,381
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
We all have are weakness !!
With me it is changing oil it is almost impossible for me to get the drain plug out without half the oil ending up running down what ever arm I remove the plug with.
I love wiring no fluids
With me it is changing oil it is almost impossible for me to get the drain plug out without half the oil ending up running down what ever arm I remove the plug with.
I love wiring no fluids
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