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Battery will not recharge and alternator is good?
05-17-2008 | 02:21 PM
#21
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 433
Likes: 2
From: Hazzard County, Georgia
Sounds like a charging problem to me.All the dead cells i have had i was dead in the water, you cant even jump it off or charge it. I would take the Alt somewhere besides autzone to check it, most of them dont know what a car is. I asked for some shims for a rear gear one time and the guy brought me cam bearings for a chevy 350,i was working on a jeep chevy never came up.
Sound like the alt is not doing its job, it should run with the baterry disconnected.
Sound like the alt is not doing its job, it should run with the baterry disconnected.
05-17-2008 | 02:29 PM
#22
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 433
Likes: 2
From: Hazzard County, Georgia
A bad battery will not cause your truck to die when disconnected. If it is not connected, bad or not, how could it affect the truck, its not connected! That just doesn't make sense. You think the truck dies because a bad battery is in close proximity??? LOL!
Every single thing you said (other than the autozone test) points to the alternator or alternator wires. I would also get it tested somewhere else or invest in a multimeter. If it isn't a few volts above 12 than the alternator is not working.
Your truck needs power to run. So if your alternator is not working, your truck will run until it uses up everything in the battery. Then when being jumped off another car, it is getting power to run from other car. It even got recharged enough from the jump to continue running for a minute after the cables were removed. If not the alternator itself, than its a bad connection on the wires from the alternator. Grounds always corrode faster than positives, but check them all well.
Your truck "should" also run without a battery because it is getting the power it needs directly from the alternator. The parts that are not connected to your truck (ie bad battery) do not affect the operation of the vehicle, hehee!
Every single thing you said (other than the autozone test) points to the alternator or alternator wires. I would also get it tested somewhere else or invest in a multimeter. If it isn't a few volts above 12 than the alternator is not working.
Your truck needs power to run. So if your alternator is not working, your truck will run until it uses up everything in the battery. Then when being jumped off another car, it is getting power to run from other car. It even got recharged enough from the jump to continue running for a minute after the cables were removed. If not the alternator itself, than its a bad connection on the wires from the alternator. Grounds always corrode faster than positives, but check them all well.
Your truck "should" also run without a battery because it is getting the power it needs directly from the alternator. The parts that are not connected to your truck (ie bad battery) do not affect the operation of the vehicle, hehee!
Last edited by dbcx; 05-17-2008 at 02:32 PM.
05-17-2008 | 05:28 PM
#24
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: chico, ca
i checked all the fuses underneath the steering column and found one blown 25 amp fuse. I have removed the voltage regulator and am going to go have that tested this evening, and my battery recharged. I bought the repair manual for toyota trucks. I also have the multi meter but am not quite sure how to use it? does anyone have a link to a good tek that has basic how tos for dummies?
Thanks for all the ideas guys. Im really trying to make this work!
Thanks for all the ideas guys. Im really trying to make this work!
05-18-2008 | 04:28 AM
#25
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 433
Likes: 2
From: Hazzard County, Georgia
Go get a new alternator.you are running off what little charge you give the battery until it is dead again cause it is not charging. Do not trust autozones test. I bet if you leave the jumper cables hooked up to the other car your truck will run as long as it is connected to another car with a good alternator.
Get a new one and be done and cruising
Get a new one and be done and cruising
05-18-2008 | 05:09 AM
#26
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: berlin nh
I had a similar problem and it turned out i had a bare wire that was running from the altenator to the battery. I would guess it was shorting out and not sending the full charge back to the battery. And when i fixed it my truck stopped shocking me everytime i touched it.
05-18-2008 | 07:32 AM
#27
Registered User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Greenie, It was suggested before by death-couger but I did not see if you tried it. With the truck running remove the negitive (black) wire from the battery. If the alternator is good the truck will stay running. If it runs the battery is usualy the problem if it dies it might be the alternator.
For what it is worth I have seen auto parts stors miss diagnose/trouble shoot a few alternators and batteries. On that same note I have bought new batteries for cars and they have gone bad in a few days and it not be the cars fault.
A good battery should never drob below 12VDC even when it is in a discharged state and no laod is placed on it. Its amprage will drop but the voltage should be constant.
What kind of multimeater did you get? I can walk you through how to use it.
Good luck.
For what it is worth I have seen auto parts stors miss diagnose/trouble shoot a few alternators and batteries. On that same note I have bought new batteries for cars and they have gone bad in a few days and it not be the cars fault.
A good battery should never drob below 12VDC even when it is in a discharged state and no laod is placed on it. Its amprage will drop but the voltage should be constant.
What kind of multimeater did you get? I can walk you through how to use it.
Good luck.
Last edited by Embfixer; 05-18-2008 at 07:35 AM.
05-18-2008 | 08:29 AM
#28
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 433
Likes: 2
From: Hazzard County, Georgia
Greenie, It was suggested before by death-couger but I did not see if you tried it. With the truck running remove the negitive (black) wire from the battery. If the alternator is good the truck will stay running. If it runs the battery is usualy the problem if it dies it might be the alternator.
For what it is worth I have seen auto parts stors miss diagnose/trouble shoot a few alternators and batteries. On that same note I have bought new batteries for cars and they have gone bad in a few days and it not be the cars fault.
A good battery should never drob below 12VDC even when it is in a discharged state and no laod is placed on it. Its amprage will drop but the voltage should be constant.
What kind of multimeater did you get? I can walk you through how to use it.
Good luck.
For what it is worth I have seen auto parts stors miss diagnose/trouble shoot a few alternators and batteries. On that same note I have bought new batteries for cars and they have gone bad in a few days and it not be the cars fault.
A good battery should never drob below 12VDC even when it is in a discharged state and no laod is placed on it. Its amprage will drop but the voltage should be constant.
What kind of multimeater did you get? I can walk you through how to use it.
Good luck.
05-18-2008 | 09:33 AM
#29
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: chico, ca
i did that already. When the battery is disconnected, the truck dies. it also dies very quickly after jumper cables are removed, if not instantly.
the multi meter i bought is an actronwith 5 settings on it. two probes.
I have not yet taken the voltage regulator in to be tested.
but if it come up clean, should i buy a new alternator and throw that in there?
where should i check for bare wires? everywhere basically?
Could that blown fuse be the source of all my woes??
Should i return the damned battery and get a new one? willl they take it back?
THANK you guys for all this help. All the local 'mechanics' i know (you know, the guy who knows how to fix cars when he gets around to it...) havent been trying too hard and its up to me and cyberspace! Thanks again!
the multi meter i bought is an actronwith 5 settings on it. two probes.
I have not yet taken the voltage regulator in to be tested.
but if it come up clean, should i buy a new alternator and throw that in there?
where should i check for bare wires? everywhere basically?
Could that blown fuse be the source of all my woes??
Should i return the damned battery and get a new one? willl they take it back?
THANK you guys for all this help. All the local 'mechanics' i know (you know, the guy who knows how to fix cars when he gets around to it...) havent been trying too hard and its up to me and cyberspace! Thanks again!
05-18-2008 | 09:40 AM
#31
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: chico, ca
the battery was recharged and it ran the truck fore a little while and then, again, after being left over night the truck refused to start. nothing. I knew 1600 was too good to be true... 
05-18-2008 | 09:45 AM
#32
Donny, you're out of your element
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,690
Likes: 55
From: Marysville, WA
It was dead becuase it wasn't being charged the whole day by the alternator. The EFI system, among other things, need electricity to run. Without an alternator working, it drains the battery and right quick.
05-18-2008 | 09:48 AM
#34
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: chico, ca
im going to go over to autozone right now. Im gonna replace the fuse, should i pick up a new alternator and switch it out to see what happens? Assuming that the voltage regulator comes up good? or could this all be that damned little fuse?
05-18-2008 | 10:33 AM
#35
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 433
Likes: 2
From: Hazzard County, Georgia
Replace the alternator and be done. Everybody is trying to save you alot of trouble,you are making it more complicated than it needs to be.
The alt is not putting out for some reason, its bad or there is a plug or wire that is fubared.
1.The truck dies when the baterry is unhooked because its getting no output from the alt.
2. The truck will run until the baterry dies cause there is no otput from the alt.
3. It is doing the same thing both ways it just takes longer for it to use up the battery then dies
4. its running off jumper cables cause the alternator of the donor car is charging thus charging in place of your alt.
5. Do be sure and charge your battery some if you can you have stressed it out a few times, hate to see you chase down something else.If you have to jump it off let it run awhile with the new alt with no accesories on.
6. Stop going to autozone and advance. Try oreillys and Napa I have had way better luck with them on many projects
Good luck
The alt is not putting out for some reason, its bad or there is a plug or wire that is fubared.
1.The truck dies when the baterry is unhooked because its getting no output from the alt.
2. The truck will run until the baterry dies cause there is no otput from the alt.
3. It is doing the same thing both ways it just takes longer for it to use up the battery then dies
4. its running off jumper cables cause the alternator of the donor car is charging thus charging in place of your alt.
5. Do be sure and charge your battery some if you can you have stressed it out a few times, hate to see you chase down something else.If you have to jump it off let it run awhile with the new alt with no accesories on.
6. Stop going to autozone and advance. Try oreillys and Napa I have had way better luck with them on many projects
Good luck
Last edited by dbcx; 05-18-2008 at 10:41 AM.
05-18-2008 | 01:18 PM
#37
Registered User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
What was the blown fuse? Like the other had said the ALT sounds bad. I have had bad luck with Auto Zone's Alternators and there folks testing them. In high school I had a Ford Tarus that I put a alternator from there on. It had a life time warrenty, but I had to replace it every year or so...about 5 times in 6 years I had the car. FYI
05-18-2008 | 01:47 PM
#38
Donny, you're out of your element
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,690
Likes: 55
From: Marysville, WA
Go to a wrecking yard, and get a factory one there. Or, pony up and buy one from Toyota (remanned by DENSO, which is OEM) and never have the problem again.
05-19-2008 | 10:04 AM
#39
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: chico, ca
well, i went and got my voltage regulator checked and guess what> it didnt work! so i slapped a new one in there, replaced the blown fuse and now everything seems to be fine. the engine DOES run with the battery disconnected so i know the alternator works. i want to inspect the lines between the alternator and the battery just to be certain they are good. anything i should keep an eye out for?
05-19-2008 | 11:33 AM
#40
Registered User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Mostly Wireing with the insulation damaged, pulled electical pins and connectors. Do not do this with the ignition on or the engine running. 1 Amp will be enough to hurt/kill you, electricity is not very forgiving.... your alternator puts out 65+ Amps so be mindful of this fact.
I'm glad you got this fixed and good luck.
I'm glad you got this fixed and good luck.
