ARK_SWAMP_RIDER

I haven't monitored charging voltage, not passive how to do that. All this electrical stuff is new to me.

I received my new alternator today and had a shop near me put it on. I picked it upa few minutes ago, so we'll see what happens in the morning. One thing I noticed is the charging light on the dash is no longer on, so that's a good sign. I just want to say I really appreciate the help and info you guys have provided.

ARK_SWAMP_RIDER

I tested the battery voltage yesterday afternoon and it was just under 12 volts (with my analog meter I can't get an exact reading). I measured again this morning and it was still just under 12 volts. The truck started this morning without any issues, so it seems the issue is resolved. I'll continue to monitor the battery voltage and will replace it if it doesn't get above 12 volts. Thanks again for all of the help!

RAD4Runner

Cool! Try charging it overnight, if you have a charger. If not take it for a long drive then see how high your Batt voltage goes.

Also, would you mind doing the resistance check from B terminal to ground again? this would give us a good baseline of what normal should be. As I mentioned ^^ mine reads 0.4 meg-ohms to ground.

ARK_SWAMP_RIDER

I'm gonna take it on a trip this weekend to visit my dad, it's about a 2 hour drive each way so that should allow it to charge. I'll test voltage and if it's still under 12 volts, he has a charger so I can try fully charging the battery and test again.

Here's a pic of my reading after the alternator swap. My meter is set to RX1K, which I understand to mean ohms times 1000. If that's right, then the reading is 3200 ohms or .0032 megaohms (compared to 1800 ohms or .0018 megaohms before).

RAS86

Glad to know it all worked out.

Your battery will be giving out faulty readings because of the loads it's been thru, trying to hold a charge while the vehicle was in use, and they draining out at the end of the night, a good charged battery would give out 13.5 to 14.5v, any less would "still" be good, but sooner or later you'd be in the position to just replace it, which is the norm of the best idea to go with, rather than taking a chance and then stalling somewhere outta nowhere.

Other than that, good job.

ARK_SWAMP_RIDER

As mentioned, I will try letting the alternator charge the battery and if that doesn't work, I'll put it on a charger while I'm visiting my dad. After that if I'm still not getting proper voltage it will be replaced. Just because it's working now, I'm not going to just forget it and look the other way. The battery most likely will be replaced, but just like the alternator I'm going to be certain it's bad before replacing it.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

The alternator is never going to fully recharge the battery.

Hang the charger on when you get to your Fathers house.

How you can live without a battery charger I have no clue I think it is one of those must have things.

I hope this has got the problem fixed.

RAD4Runner

Sounds right. Still lower than what I'm reading but definitely an improvement over the 1800 ohms.

I assume you measure it with the thick white B wire disconnected? this way you're only checking resistance from B terminal to ground and nothing else.

ARK_SWAMP_RIDER

It's possible the settings on my meter aren't working properly or I'm not reading them right, but regardless the reading nearly doubled so that's a good sign. I am measuring it just as you described in the original post, the wire is disconnected from the B terminal.

RAD4Runner

Cool, Definitely better!
Nest step is to fully charge your battery (like during your long drive), measure no load voltage and with engine off, then check voltage drop when starting like Chickenman posted.
Best wishes and have a safe drive!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

To each there own I have never been able to recharge a older battery just by driving.

On a Toyota with the output of a Stock Alternator.

Sure it keeps the battery charged but one that is maybe on it`s last legs drained on a nightly basis then jump started.

Moot point i am still trying to figure out physics teaches in DC circuits the current flow is always Negative to Positive

Electrical class says to make things easier we will say in DC circuits current flows positive to negative.

I can only figure I got out of bed and ended up in the wrong reality a few years back:jessica:

RAD4Runner

Yeah- could get confusing to hands-on type like us who are working on electrical system of our car.

The reason physics teaches DC is negative to Positive is because physics is talking about the direction the electrons travel. Negative terminal of battery/generator has a excess of electrons. This makes it negative. Positive terminal is starved of electrons. Therefore, as soon as the excess electrons at the negative terminal sees a path to positive terminal, the electronos flow to e positive terminal.

So folks, for practical application in our electrical systems, follow what our electrical classes say. Current flows from positive to negative.