Another Rear Window Thread (1st Gen 4Runners)
#1
Another Rear Window Thread (1st Gen 4Runners)
So, I've posted a couple times on here already, and love the forums. So thanks for the advice so far!
But, I have an issue with my rear windshield on my 1988 4Runner. I'm unaware if this will apply to other generations or not, but if it does, great! Now this thread is aimed at being a newbie trouble shoot thread, directed at this specific problem.
Now, my rear window doesn't want to roll down. At first my "rear door open" light was not on, but the more I drive it the more it would light up as I hit bumps or went up/down hills (lightly at first, now always on.). I don't hear a clicking noise coming from behind the drivers seat where the relay is located (I believe that's where it's located). My bolts are all secure on the removable top, however I noticed that my rear windshield wiper is removed, but the rotating piece it attaches to still moves, and you can hear it move into the correct resting position. Another issue I noticed that might contribute to finding a solution is that, I can't unlock my rear tailgate or open it. (I understand that the 4runner doesn't let you open the tailgate unless the window is rolled down).
I'll answer any questions I can asap, and include some pictures to help my case. Thanks in advance!
But, I have an issue with my rear windshield on my 1988 4Runner. I'm unaware if this will apply to other generations or not, but if it does, great! Now this thread is aimed at being a newbie trouble shoot thread, directed at this specific problem.
Now, my rear window doesn't want to roll down. At first my "rear door open" light was not on, but the more I drive it the more it would light up as I hit bumps or went up/down hills (lightly at first, now always on.). I don't hear a clicking noise coming from behind the drivers seat where the relay is located (I believe that's where it's located). My bolts are all secure on the removable top, however I noticed that my rear windshield wiper is removed, but the rotating piece it attaches to still moves, and you can hear it move into the correct resting position. Another issue I noticed that might contribute to finding a solution is that, I can't unlock my rear tailgate or open it. (I understand that the 4runner doesn't let you open the tailgate unless the window is rolled down).
I'll answer any questions I can asap, and include some pictures to help my case. Thanks in advance!
#2
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
The window will not move with the door open switch in the open position causing the light to be lite
It is a window not a windshield
Then any of the other switches can also be failing to close or open preventing the window from moving.
It is a window not a windshield
Then any of the other switches can also be failing to close or open preventing the window from moving.
#3
What exactly do you mean? I'm not a grammar nazi, but I can't quite grasp what you're saying.
#4
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Has this window at anytime worked ??
As long as your "Door open light" is on the window will not complete the circuit allowing the motor to operate.
Any of the other safety switches in the rear window circuit may also not be working as well
Could be broken wires where they go into the hatch
Most all window trouble shooting begins with testing the window motor to see if it works by unplugging the connector and using a 12VDC power source to test.
Then trouble shooting the safety switches .
Time to break out the meter.
As long as your "Door open light" is on the window will not complete the circuit allowing the motor to operate.
Any of the other safety switches in the rear window circuit may also not be working as well
Could be broken wires where they go into the hatch
Most all window trouble shooting begins with testing the window motor to see if it works by unplugging the connector and using a 12VDC power source to test.
Then trouble shooting the safety switches .
Time to break out the meter.
#5
Has this window at anytime worked ??
As long as your "Door open light" is on the window will not complete the circuit allowing the motor to operate.
Any of the other safety switches in the rear window circuit may also not be working as well
Could be broken wires where they go into the hatch
Most all window trouble shooting begins with testing the window motor to see if it works by unplugging the connector and using a 12VDC power source to test.
Then trouble shooting the safety switches .
Time to break out the meter.
As long as your "Door open light" is on the window will not complete the circuit allowing the motor to operate.
Any of the other safety switches in the rear window circuit may also not be working as well
Could be broken wires where they go into the hatch
Most all window trouble shooting begins with testing the window motor to see if it works by unplugging the connector and using a 12VDC power source to test.
Then trouble shooting the safety switches .
Time to break out the meter.
Yes, it worked the day before I bought it, the guy was pretty honest about the truck. Hmm, I'll have to try and test that, but my knowledge concerning anything electrical is bleak at best. How would I go about doing so? What would I need to buy?
#7
If the wiper motor is not all the way up to like it should be, in the stowed position, that is one possibility of keeping the window from going up. It has a safety switch. Make sure the tail gate is closed all the way.
Here is some informationhttps://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199/terrys87-88-4runner-restoration-build-thread-227399/index10.html#post51722787 and the following post has some information on it. I bypass all of the safeties on mine.
Here is some informationhttps://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199/terrys87-88-4runner-restoration-build-thread-227399/index10.html#post51722787 and the following post has some information on it. I bypass all of the safeties on mine.
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#8
Terrys87, thanks for the reply. I didn't notice it until now, and of course I have problems again. Before the issue was simply needing to push on the tailgate to make sure it was getting closed all the way. But, one day after work I go to roll it down, and it doesn't want to. So, here's what I know. (Again, this is still aimed at being a newbie thread. I have absolutely zero electrical knowledge about anything.)
The window rolled up and down fine, through the key hole on the tailgate, and from the electrical up front. Never hesitated, or slowed down. I haven't wheeled it much either, if any. Didn't hit any bumps or anything. There isn't any clicking when I try rolling it up or down from the relay, and the fuse is also fine. All my other electrical is working as well. Any ideas as to what's going on here?
The window rolled up and down fine, through the key hole on the tailgate, and from the electrical up front. Never hesitated, or slowed down. I haven't wheeled it much either, if any. Didn't hit any bumps or anything. There isn't any clicking when I try rolling it up or down from the relay, and the fuse is also fine. All my other electrical is working as well. Any ideas as to what's going on here?
#9
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Someplace something in the circuit is open ( this means just what it says the circuit is broken and it is physically not able to carry the current)
This can be a safety switch open a broken wire a failed motor .
Check to make sure the rear wiper is in the docked position that is one of the safeties to keep the window from closing on the wiper arm.
You can buy a Multimeter fairly cheap that can make the simple readings you need.
This can be a safety switch open a broken wire a failed motor .
Check to make sure the rear wiper is in the docked position that is one of the safeties to keep the window from closing on the wiper arm.
You can buy a Multimeter fairly cheap that can make the simple readings you need.
#10
You can test the motor by removing the cover on the tailgate, unplugging the connector to the motor and connecting the positive side of the battery to one pin in the connector and the negative side to the other. This won't be fun with the tailgate closed but that may be your only option. If nothing happens, reverse the two wires which should lower the window. If nothing then, your window motor isn't working. I would bet on something else in the electrical being the problem though like one of the safeties that keep you from moving the window at a bad time. It could be the window lock switch. To rule this out, get to the back of the switch and connect the two blue wires together some way or another. This should close the circuit and allow the window to work if the switch is faulty. Other than that, the remaining things that could stop the window from working are the door open/close switch, top on/off switch and a faulty relay or wiring in the harness/relay which runs from the switches to the relay behind the driver's seat to the rear of the truck along the driver's side. I'd have to remove my switches to remember what I did but I have mine tricked to raise or lower the window whenever I hit the switch. I somehow got around all of the safeties but can't remember how I did it. I know I didn't run any new wire.
As far as the safety switches go, find them and put the two wires together to close their circuit. Do this one switch at a time. If you get no result, put them back together the way you found them and mark them off your list. If the window works, you have found your problem. Address the issue by replacing/repairing the switch or permanently closing the circuit if you trust yourself not to eject your window onto the pavement. It will fall right out if you raise the window with the tailgate down or with the top off. Good luck. You'll get it.
As far as the safety switches go, find them and put the two wires together to close their circuit. Do this one switch at a time. If you get no result, put them back together the way you found them and mark them off your list. If the window works, you have found your problem. Address the issue by replacing/repairing the switch or permanently closing the circuit if you trust yourself not to eject your window onto the pavement. It will fall right out if you raise the window with the tailgate down or with the top off. Good luck. You'll get it.
#11
I recently acquired a 1990 with rear window problems. I connect directly to the motor as a temporary fix until some day I might diagnose the issue for the switches to work. Neither the console switch or the key operate the motor. Something I have noticed that might help you is that my rear door open light is on when the tailgate is closed and unlocked. If it is locked, the light is off. Maybe your lock is sticking open and if so, you need to remove the interior panel and clean and lubricate the window and lock mechanism so it travels freely and as far as it should.
The tailgate only opens with the window down, I imagine, because the first generation is a truck with a removable top and the window should be protected.
The tailgate only opens with the window down, I imagine, because the first generation is a truck with a removable top and the window should be protected.
#12
Thank you all! Turns out that I had the window wiper button on after cleaning the truck, just didn't notice due to my not having a wiper arm... lol. (DEFINITELY A NOOB THREAD.)
However I have noticed when I roll it up or down it kind of surges or knocks. Rolls smoothly but I has the knock, still. Is that a sign of a dying motor?
However I have noticed when I roll it up or down it kind of surges or knocks. Rolls smoothly but I has the knock, still. Is that a sign of a dying motor?
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