22re no fuel at injectors
#1
22re no fuel at injectors
i have a 87 yota 22re i got full pressure to the rail, efi fuse good, efi main relay is good, circuit opening relay is good, but im still not gettin any fuel into the cylinders. Any suggestions?
#2
#6
Since those pins are the ground outputs that turn on the fuel injectors, you won't normally measure any voltage there:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...roubleshooting
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...roubleshooting
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#8
I think that is the reading "between the solenoid resistor terminal + and body ground", per my FSM. The resistor is what supplies power (12 volts) to the injectors and the ECU supplies ground (intermittently - via No10 and No20) to complete the circuit.
#10
Hey Roger, I remember learning much of this Multi-meter brain pain topic from you and your threads... Thanks!
I think I misread this SAME section of the FSM, and no matter how many times I read it, I wasn't getting that it was the initial test, only to test ground on certain items. However, once I got it, I found that my voltage to those No.10 and No.20 were fine, and it ended up that my ECU was just fine.
Solenoid resistor, EFI relay and EFI fuses are the easiest and primary things to check when starting a P.O.E. You've done that... If it's NOT the ECU, it could very well be harness related. Eliminate everything else being suggested, first, then start considering that you might have a bad or NO connection in your loom. However, even before that, verify that you are CERTAIN you have spark when trying to fire it over(sorry if you said you did....didn't see it)... I can't remember exactly how it works, but EFI systems will not flood because they WILL NOT dump fuel if you have non-existent or maybe low spark(GUYS?...)
I verified that I had a stuck injector with a noid light set. VERY useful tool. At least, then, you would KNOW that you ARE, no doubt, getting power to the Injector connectors. I'd bet that you're not.
Just in case you've had the plenum off, etc. for some reason... couldn't hurt to check the intake ground to the top/left stud on the plenum mounting surface. No insult meant...I'm just pointing out what would stop you from having a completed circuit.
I think I misread this SAME section of the FSM, and no matter how many times I read it, I wasn't getting that it was the initial test, only to test ground on certain items. However, once I got it, I found that my voltage to those No.10 and No.20 were fine, and it ended up that my ECU was just fine.
Solenoid resistor, EFI relay and EFI fuses are the easiest and primary things to check when starting a P.O.E. You've done that... If it's NOT the ECU, it could very well be harness related. Eliminate everything else being suggested, first, then start considering that you might have a bad or NO connection in your loom. However, even before that, verify that you are CERTAIN you have spark when trying to fire it over(sorry if you said you did....didn't see it)... I can't remember exactly how it works, but EFI systems will not flood because they WILL NOT dump fuel if you have non-existent or maybe low spark(GUYS?...)
I verified that I had a stuck injector with a noid light set. VERY useful tool. At least, then, you would KNOW that you ARE, no doubt, getting power to the Injector connectors. I'd bet that you're not.
Just in case you've had the plenum off, etc. for some reason... couldn't hurt to check the intake ground to the top/left stud on the plenum mounting surface. No insult meant...I'm just pointing out what would stop you from having a completed circuit.
#11
Not sure if it'll be helpful as reference, but I have the same year, same motor as you, and I also have the whole section of the EFI Troubleshooting Section from the FSM if you wanted any of it. Hope you get it figured out, man...know how frustrating it can be. When I did this testing, I hadn't figured out that my cam was toast! lol.. But then again, I DID have fuel to the rail and through the cyl's...just a really chunky miss and bouncing vacuum..... This ECU is fine......
#13
Dang, where you been, Scharp? lol.
Sorry to hear, man. Hmmmm. Sounds like it might just be a harness issue, man. Not telling you to tear it all down. Just seems to usually be the solution when all else has been exhausted. I'll try to track down the 'next best option' to check into, ok? Just busy lately.
Sorry to hear, man. Hmmmm. Sounds like it might just be a harness issue, man. Not telling you to tear it all down. Just seems to usually be the solution when all else has been exhausted. I'll try to track down the 'next best option' to check into, ok? Just busy lately.
#14
So how was it tested? Resistance or voltage? Should be 12 volts to the resistor then output of that to one side of the injectors. So check resistance from resistor to each injector connector.
#16
make usre your ground wire that bolts to your intake is bolted to your intake and not sandwiched inbetween the intakes...
that little ground wire makes or breaks if that engine is going to run...
that little ground wire makes or breaks if that engine is going to run...
#20
Since those pins are the ground outputs that turn on the fuel injectors, you won't normally measure any voltage there:
The resistor is what supplies power (12 volts) to the injectors and the ECU supplies ground (intermittently - via No10 and No20) to complete the circuit.
These engines have low impedence injectors. Which means the resistance of the injector is very low typically in the range of 2.8 ohms or less. Low resistance in the circuit means that the current in the circuit is high, probably too high for the micro-circuitry of the ECU. As a result a resistance (Solenoid Resistor) is added to the circuit to lower the current flowing in the circuit.
There is a voltage drop across the resistor, but it is minimal.
(ChefYota4X4 was still reading battery voltage at #10 and #20 at the ECU.)
After mid 88 Toyota went to high impedence injectors typically around 13.8 ohms, which eliminated the need for a solenoid resistor in the circuit, so if you have an 88 22RE you may have low impedence injectors with a solenoid resistor or depending on when your truck was built you could have high impedence injectors without a solenoid resistor.
The 22RE batch fires the injectors, #10 & #20 are tied together in the harness after the solenoid resistor, so if the ECU fires either #10 or #20 all four injectors are firing.
so i tested the solenoid resistor and its good. and i still dont have power to injectors
the voltage and resistance is in spec
I'm assuming that you still do not have voltage at your injectors or at #10 and #20 at the ECU, so unplug the resistor and check for battery voltage on the plug feeding the resistor. (Plug with one wire)
Your 87 should be the same as my 86. If no voltage you need to go back further. The injector circuit is fed directly off of terminal IG2 of the ignition switch (as is the igniter and coil), it has nothing to do with the EFI fuse or relay. IG2 is fed from the 30 amp Fusible link AM2. So you have a fusible link, wiring to the ignition switch, ignition switch and wiring to the solenoid resistor to check next.
Let me know how you make out!
Last edited by Hadmatt54; 11-19-2010 at 03:28 PM.