1988 Toyota Pickup 22re EFI Check Connector Question/Questions...

I have the truck 1988 pickup 22re 222,000+ by boss is the Original owner.

I'm troubleshooting a 2 part issue with it.

The issue #1 The engine cranks Starts perfect cold, but after a while of idling 30 minutes or so, It sounds like the engine is running out of fuel and will quietly shut off, and I here the OCR (Open Circuit Relay) de energize, so the contacts are not energized.

The engine will not restart after shut down (engine warm), until the engine completely cools down and then she will fire back up and do the same routine all over again within the same amount of idle time. I know it's fuel related or fuel related component causing this issue.

Question

1). Why is this happening? ''When using a jumper at the Check connector FP to B+ KO to check if the fuel pump will power up. It will not power up, thus a ''Engine Crank but No Start''

I can jumper from the check connector FP straight to the + Battery post and of course the fuel pump will come on and engine will start (this is not recommended, and the fuel pump will have too high of amperage for what it was designed for but I need to know if fuel pump was working)

Question

2.) Would the TPS Fuel Cut RPM cause this issue?

Issue #2

If I get the engine running long enough to take for a test drive. The engine cut out, stubble and has loss of power at that point and will die. There is a new fuel pump filter and new fuel pump installed.

Question

1.) Would the TPS Fuel Cut RPM, the OCR of Maf cause this issue.

I'm confused...and for some reason I can't set base timing using the Check Connector jumper in the correct terminals, so on this issue, I'm leaning towards the tps.

I will appreciate any input and I will be testing each of the EFI components described above this weekend pef the FSM...

thanks!!!

 

I don't believe tps will cause your issue. To eliminate it just unplug it. Truck should run just fine but you'll get poor fuel mileage. Sorry but can't think of anything else to tell you. I would think you have a fuel, air (maf), or electrical problem. Good luck

 

Sounds like you have poor connection could just be corrosion in the check connector .

Your Circuit Opening relay coil could be getting tired gets hot and opens causing it to drop out.

Might be the EFI relay as that powers the run coil on the Circuit opening relay

Poor connection at the Air Flow Meter unless your not running a 22RE you don`t have a Mass Air Flow Sensor

Your fuel pump will only draw as much current as it needs if your worried put a 15 amp inline fuse in your jumper wire .

Your B+ voltage comes from the ECU physical damage to the wire harness poor connection or the ECU may be starting to fail

This is in the fuel pump Circuit look at the EFI Fuse and relay the 7.5 amp ignition fuse to start and go from there

 

Thanks for the input I do appreciate it. I'm just trying to eliminate this many electronic old components as I can to help him out. if it were me I convert over to the carburetor, have done this and get better engine response, BecauseBecause, over the years electronic components get old, break down, insulation gets brittle from constant engine heat and changing environment.

But the boss...wants me to keep it as it was from factory, until a conversion is justified

 

Thanks for the info.
I'm joint to test the TPS circuit, first then if I find a problem...I'll unplugged it, replace it and go from there

 

I would much rather have EFI over a Carb any time.

Then if your trying to trouble shoot this without the Toyota Electrical Wiring Diagrams that will Frustrate anyone.

 

EFI is great when it is working right but I agree with you when things get old, it can be one thing after another. I recently converted one from EFI to carb and eventually going to do the same thing to another truck that just seems to be a never ending issue.

 

Thanks for your input
I have wiring diagrams going back to when I did the 3vze timing belt replacement with lots of pics tutorial
I hope I remember the name of that thread, at my age now...I remember what I choose to remember.lol

I'll give you something to think about for a minute or two on EFI vs CARB on old engines

Your trail riding, rock crawling, snow trailing. Taking your kids to school, wife to eat, going to work...
Whatever the case maybe? and you have an engine with EFI (which is a great design) new and under warranty...and you break down because some sort of electrical issue leaves you stranded...sure u call a tow and get things fixed and your on your way....

But if you have an old engine and old EFI component, wiring, been molested with by a po, that have been subjected to years of operating in a heated environment

 

Thanks for your input
I have wiring diagrams going back to when I did the 3vze timing belt replacement with lots of pics tutorial
I hope I remember the name of that thread, at my age now...I remember what I choose to remember.lol

I'll give you something to think about for a minute or two on EFI vs CARB on old engines

Your trail riding, rock crawling, snow trailing. Taking your kids to school, wife to eat, going to work...
Whatever the case maybe? and you have an engine with EFI (which is a great design) new and under warranty...and you break down because some sort of electrical issue leaves you stranded...sure u call a tow and get things fixed and your on your way....

But if you have an old engine and old EFI component, wiring, been molested with by a po...the EFI system has been subjected to years of operating in a heated, moisture ect type of environment and you doing one of those fun things I've listed above.....and all of a sudden the fun unstoppable well built Toyota...quits running on you and your miles away from any civilization....how are you going to troubleshoot that complicated old EFI system, fix it, get it cranked and running so u can get the he'll out, before another component fails....

That's why I don't trust the older EFI systems...with a carburetor setup it's not as complicated to repair, carry a spare carb, fuel pump, fuses, plugs, wires, dizzy cap and rotor and sone basic tools...your chances of finding and fixing that problem within an hour or so, just makes sense for me...

 

Terry I couldn't agree more, if I can't narrow down which circuit, component ect Causing this issue...then the boss is willing to convert to carburetor

But I'll keep troubleshooting for a while longer and if I find the bugger that is causing this, who's to say that weeks later whiles the boss in in his yota Going hunting...something else on the EFI system Peters out and he's stranded again

 

You do have a valid point !!

But I grew up with Carburetors I have had more grief from them .



I have never had any sort of EFI failure

Then I have fixed enough hacked wiring jobs as well

My problems tend to run more towards remembering where I parked when at home.

 

I gotcha!! and I too have fixed my share of roadkill wiring in my time and still forget what Isle I parken in at the wal-Mart lol

 

since I wasn't getting "NO" power to the test connector B+.

I decided to run a new B+ wire and solder it into the existing B+ wires that are BK with spaced Red Rings. I now have power at the test connector B+ and with KO, I can move the MAF flap and the FP comes on.

I now can crank the engine and it will run and drive fine with no issues...

so wonder what happened to the original test connector B+ power?

and hope adding this new fused B+ wire didn't affect anything else