Steering Spindle Bearing Replacement - 2nd Gen 4Runner
01-14-2006 | 09:21 PM
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Steering Spindle Bearing Replacement - 2nd Gen 4Runner
Steering Spindle Bearing Replacement - 2nd Gen 4Runner ('91)
By Jimrockford
Jjimrockford shows you how to pull worn steering spindle bushings and replace them with upgraded needle bearings and thrust bushings.
Time Required: 6-10 hours
Tools Needed
Lug Wrench
Impact Wrench
12mm Impact Socket
14mm Impact Socket
17mm Impact Socket
19mm Impact Socket
Ratchet
12mm Socket
14mm Socket
Slide Hammer
2 1/8" Socket or Adjustable Wrench
Small Tapered Punch
Hydraulic Press
Torque Wrench
2 8mm Bolts
Screwdriver
Parts Needed
Roller Needle Bearings, 2ea- Toyota Part Number: 90364-30011
Inner Steering Knuckle Bushing, 2ea. Toyota Part Number: 90381-32001
Toyota Chassis Grease, 1oz Tube. Toyota Part Number: 08887-80219
Summary
I had an annoying rattle coming from my front end. I heard it when traveling at a constant speed between 15-25mph. The noise got worse when I stepped on the brakes. I wasn't been able to figure out what the problem was, so I took it to a mechanic. To make a long story short, it took three mechanics and five times in the shop before the Toyota dealership identified the problem. They wanted $700 to fix it. I'd just dumped close to $2,000 into my truck fixing problems and performing upgrades and didn't have that kind of money to drop on repairs. So, I decided to do the work myself.
Basically, the mechanic told me that the bushings Toyota used in the steering spindle wear out easily. Replacing the worn bushings with needle bearings fixed the problem, and prevented it from reoccurring. I ordered the parts from www.parts.com for about $88 and began researching the install. I couldn't find anything that went through it step-by-step, but I gathered enough information to figure the job out. Since I'm a truck repair for dummies kind of guy, I decided to do a write up to hopefully make this job a little easier.
It might be a good idea to verify that the bushings are your problem before tearing your truck apart. This is a fairly big job that I wouldn't recommend for someone that didn't need it. To diagnose this as the cause of your rattle, raise your rig's front end and support it on jack stands. Grab the front axle between the CV joints and shake it back and forth. There should be very little or no play. If it clunks back and forth, you'll likely recognize the noise it makes and know you've found the problem. If you're not sure, download and listen to this MP3 that I recorded of my truck rattling. If you've got the same noise, there's a good chance you've got the same problem.
Fair warning: I'm not a mechanic and I usually learn by breaking things. Take this article for what it's worth. My vehicle may be slightly different than yours, and my techniques may not apply to your situation. That said, let's get started!
Step 1: Raise Vehicle and Remove Front Tires
Loosen the lug nuts with a lug wrench. Raise the vehicle. A shop with a lift stall is preferred, but the dinky jack under your rear seat will do the job. Place on jack stands and block the rear tires if you go the jack route. Remove the wheels and set aside.
Step 2: Remove Hub Cover Bolts
Use an impact wrench with a 12mm socket to remove the six bolts holding the hub cover on.
Step 3: Remove Cone Washers
Insert a small tapered punch into the slit in the cone washer.
Tap the punch with a hammer. Driving the punch into the slit causes the cone washer to expand and pop out.
Step 4: Remove Hub Dust Cap
Use a screwdriver to pry the dust cap off the hub.
Step 5: Remove Bolt from End of Axle
Use a 12mm socket to remove the washer and bolt from the end of the axle.
Step 6: Remove Hub Cover
Thread two 8mm bolts into the threaded holes in the cover. Pull on the bolts to remove the hub cover.
Removing the cover exposes the axle and large retainer nuts.
Step 7: Remove Retainer Nuts and Outer Wheel Bearings
Use a 2 1/8" socket or adjustable wrench to remove the two retainer nuts. They should be pretty easy to loosen. They aren't very tight.
Finish removing the parts and set aside. This picture shows the parts to be removed, and the order in which they come out. The bearing is on top and is behind the retaining nuts.
Step 8: Remove Brake Caliper
Remove the two 17mm bolts from the rear of the brake caliper. Move the caliper to the side and ensure it is adequately supported. The brake rotor should now be free and can be pulled off the axle housing and set aside.
Step 9: Remove Brake Rotor Dust Cover
Remove the seven 12mm bolts holding on the brake rotor dust cover. Remove the cover and set aside.
Removing the dust cover exposes the steering spindle.
Step 10: Remove Upper Control Arm Nuts
Remove the four 14mm nuts holding the upper ball joint to the upper control arm.
Step 11: Remove Steering Linkage from Spindle
Remove the two 19mm bolts holding the steering linkage to the back of the steering spindle. These will be tight.
Step 12: Remove Lower Ball Joint Bolts
Remove the four 14mm bolts holding the steering spindle to the lower ball joint.
Step 13: Remove Steering Spindle
Spread the upper and lower control arms as much as possible.
Lift the steering spindle to clear the bump on the bottom ball joint.
Pull the bottom of the steering spindle toward you. Lower the spindle so that the upper ball joint comes out of the control arm.Remove spindle, being careful not to let the axle drop out the back of the spindle.
Front of steering spindle.
Back of steering spindle.
Detail of inner spindle bushing. We will be replacing this brass bushing with a needle bearing and thrust bushing.
Step 14: Remove Outer Spindle Bushing
Attach a slide hammer to the outer spindle bushing as shown in the next picture. Have someone hold the steering spindle securely and yank on the slide hammer handle. It may take a few tries, but the bushing should pop out.
Detail of slide hammer attachment.
Hey, look, it came out. Set the outer spindle bushing aside. We will reinstall this bushing later. We had to remove it to get at the inner bushing.
Step 15: Remove Inner Spindle Bushing
Select a socket and extension that fits in the axle housing without a lot of play. We will drive the bushing out from the opposite side. The bushing protrudes into the axle housing a small amount. It is necessary to use a socket that just barely fits into the axle housing to get a good bite on the bushing.
Have someone securely hold the spindle on the floor while you drive the socket through the axle housing with a BFH. Continue pounding on the extension until the bushing pops out the bottom.
Here's what we've been after. This is the shot bushing. We'll be replacing this in the next few steps.
Step 16: Install New Bearing
You'll need to use a hydraulic press like this one to press in the bearings. You may be able to do it without a press, but this is what I used.
Press the bearing into the back side of the spindle by hand to get it started. The writing on the edge of the bushing should face up. Once it is started, use the press to push the bearing into the axle housing.
I used a large socket to press the bearing until it was flush with the housing. I then used a different socket that was the same diameter as the bearing to push it in an extra 2-3mm. That extra space is needed to allow room for the thrust bushing.
Step 17: Install New Thrust Bushing
Press the new thrust bushing into the axle housing. The flange on the bushing should be pressed down until it bottoms out on the face of the spindle.
Step 18: Reinstall Outer Spindle Bushing
I forgot to take a picture of this step.However, it's done the same way as the two previous steps, except that it is driven into the other side of the spindle. One thing to be careful of, though, is that the spindle doesn't sit flat when driving in this bushing. I had to do it really slowly and keep adjusting the angle to keep it going straight.
Step 19: Apply Grease to Bearings
Apply a liberal coating of grease to the bushings and bearings. Make sure to lubricate the inner and outer bushings. Also, coat the surface of the axle shaft that mates to the inner bearing, and to the axle splines.
Step 20: Reassembly
Installation of the spindle is the opposite of removal.
Be sure to torque everything to the appropriate specifications. See the table below for details.Disc Brake Caliper 90 ft lbs Rotor Dust Cover 13 ft lbs Hub Center Bolt 13 ft lbs Hub Cone Washer Nut 23 ft lbs Lower Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Bolt 43 ft lbs Steering Knuckle to Knuckle Arm Bolt 135 ft lbs Upper Ball Joint to Upper Control Arm Nut 25 ft lbs
By Jimrockford
Jjimrockford shows you how to pull worn steering spindle bushings and replace them with upgraded needle bearings and thrust bushings.
Time Required: 6-10 hours
Tools Needed
Lug Wrench
Impact Wrench
12mm Impact Socket
14mm Impact Socket
17mm Impact Socket
19mm Impact Socket
Ratchet
12mm Socket
14mm Socket
Slide Hammer
2 1/8" Socket or Adjustable Wrench
Small Tapered Punch
Hydraulic Press
Torque Wrench
2 8mm Bolts
Screwdriver
Parts Needed
Roller Needle Bearings, 2ea- Toyota Part Number: 90364-30011
Inner Steering Knuckle Bushing, 2ea. Toyota Part Number: 90381-32001
Toyota Chassis Grease, 1oz Tube. Toyota Part Number: 08887-80219
)
)
Summary
I had an annoying rattle coming from my front end. I heard it when traveling at a constant speed between 15-25mph. The noise got worse when I stepped on the brakes. I wasn't been able to figure out what the problem was, so I took it to a mechanic. To make a long story short, it took three mechanics and five times in the shop before the Toyota dealership identified the problem. They wanted $700 to fix it. I'd just dumped close to $2,000 into my truck fixing problems and performing upgrades and didn't have that kind of money to drop on repairs. So, I decided to do the work myself.
Basically, the mechanic told me that the bushings Toyota used in the steering spindle wear out easily. Replacing the worn bushings with needle bearings fixed the problem, and prevented it from reoccurring. I ordered the parts from www.parts.com for about $88 and began researching the install. I couldn't find anything that went through it step-by-step, but I gathered enough information to figure the job out. Since I'm a truck repair for dummies kind of guy, I decided to do a write up to hopefully make this job a little easier.
It might be a good idea to verify that the bushings are your problem before tearing your truck apart. This is a fairly big job that I wouldn't recommend for someone that didn't need it. To diagnose this as the cause of your rattle, raise your rig's front end and support it on jack stands. Grab the front axle between the CV joints and shake it back and forth. There should be very little or no play. If it clunks back and forth, you'll likely recognize the noise it makes and know you've found the problem. If you're not sure, download and listen to this MP3 that I recorded of my truck rattling. If you've got the same noise, there's a good chance you've got the same problem.
Fair warning: I'm not a mechanic and I usually learn by breaking things. Take this article for what it's worth. My vehicle may be slightly different than yours, and my techniques may not apply to your situation. That said, let's get started!
Step 1: Raise Vehicle and Remove Front Tires
Loosen the lug nuts with a lug wrench. Raise the vehicle. A shop with a lift stall is preferred, but the dinky jack under your rear seat will do the job. Place on jack stands and block the rear tires if you go the jack route. Remove the wheels and set aside.
Step 2: Remove Hub Cover Bolts
)
Use an impact wrench with a 12mm socket to remove the six bolts holding the hub cover on.
Step 3: Remove Cone Washers
)
Insert a small tapered punch into the slit in the cone washer.
)
Tap the punch with a hammer. Driving the punch into the slit causes the cone washer to expand and pop out.
Step 4: Remove Hub Dust Cap
)
Use a screwdriver to pry the dust cap off the hub.
Step 5: Remove Bolt from End of Axle
)
Use a 12mm socket to remove the washer and bolt from the end of the axle.
Step 6: Remove Hub Cover
)
Thread two 8mm bolts into the threaded holes in the cover. Pull on the bolts to remove the hub cover.
)
Removing the cover exposes the axle and large retainer nuts.
Step 7: Remove Retainer Nuts and Outer Wheel Bearings
)
Use a 2 1/8" socket or adjustable wrench to remove the two retainer nuts. They should be pretty easy to loosen. They aren't very tight.
)
Finish removing the parts and set aside. This picture shows the parts to be removed, and the order in which they come out. The bearing is on top and is behind the retaining nuts.
Step 8: Remove Brake Caliper
)
Remove the two 17mm bolts from the rear of the brake caliper. Move the caliper to the side and ensure it is adequately supported. The brake rotor should now be free and can be pulled off the axle housing and set aside.
Step 9: Remove Brake Rotor Dust Cover
)
Remove the seven 12mm bolts holding on the brake rotor dust cover. Remove the cover and set aside.
)
Removing the dust cover exposes the steering spindle.
Step 10: Remove Upper Control Arm Nuts
)
Remove the four 14mm nuts holding the upper ball joint to the upper control arm.
Step 11: Remove Steering Linkage from Spindle
)
Remove the two 19mm bolts holding the steering linkage to the back of the steering spindle. These will be tight.
Step 12: Remove Lower Ball Joint Bolts
)
Remove the four 14mm bolts holding the steering spindle to the lower ball joint.
Step 13: Remove Steering Spindle
Spread the upper and lower control arms as much as possible.
Lift the steering spindle to clear the bump on the bottom ball joint.
Pull the bottom of the steering spindle toward you. Lower the spindle so that the upper ball joint comes out of the control arm.Remove spindle, being careful not to let the axle drop out the back of the spindle.
)
Front of steering spindle.
)
Back of steering spindle.
)
Detail of inner spindle bushing. We will be replacing this brass bushing with a needle bearing and thrust bushing.
Step 14: Remove Outer Spindle Bushing
)
Attach a slide hammer to the outer spindle bushing as shown in the next picture. Have someone hold the steering spindle securely and yank on the slide hammer handle. It may take a few tries, but the bushing should pop out.
)
Detail of slide hammer attachment.
)
Hey, look, it came out. Set the outer spindle bushing aside. We will reinstall this bushing later. We had to remove it to get at the inner bushing.
Step 15: Remove Inner Spindle Bushing
)
Select a socket and extension that fits in the axle housing without a lot of play. We will drive the bushing out from the opposite side. The bushing protrudes into the axle housing a small amount. It is necessary to use a socket that just barely fits into the axle housing to get a good bite on the bushing.
)
Have someone securely hold the spindle on the floor while you drive the socket through the axle housing with a BFH. Continue pounding on the extension until the bushing pops out the bottom.
)
Here's what we've been after. This is the shot bushing. We'll be replacing this in the next few steps.
Step 16: Install New Bearing
)
You'll need to use a hydraulic press like this one to press in the bearings. You may be able to do it without a press, but this is what I used.
)
Press the bearing into the back side of the spindle by hand to get it started. The writing on the edge of the bushing should face up. Once it is started, use the press to push the bearing into the axle housing.
)
I used a large socket to press the bearing until it was flush with the housing. I then used a different socket that was the same diameter as the bearing to push it in an extra 2-3mm. That extra space is needed to allow room for the thrust bushing.
Step 17: Install New Thrust Bushing
)
Press the new thrust bushing into the axle housing. The flange on the bushing should be pressed down until it bottoms out on the face of the spindle.
Step 18: Reinstall Outer Spindle Bushing
I forgot to take a picture of this step.However, it's done the same way as the two previous steps, except that it is driven into the other side of the spindle. One thing to be careful of, though, is that the spindle doesn't sit flat when driving in this bushing. I had to do it really slowly and keep adjusting the angle to keep it going straight.
Step 19: Apply Grease to Bearings
)
Apply a liberal coating of grease to the bushings and bearings. Make sure to lubricate the inner and outer bushings. Also, coat the surface of the axle shaft that mates to the inner bearing, and to the axle splines.
Step 20: Reassembly
Installation of the spindle is the opposite of removal.
Be sure to torque everything to the appropriate specifications. See the table below for details.Disc Brake Caliper 90 ft lbs Rotor Dust Cover 13 ft lbs Hub Center Bolt 13 ft lbs Hub Cone Washer Nut 23 ft lbs Lower Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Bolt 43 ft lbs Steering Knuckle to Knuckle Arm Bolt 135 ft lbs Upper Ball Joint to Upper Control Arm Nut 25 ft lbs
Last edited by Bob_98SR5; 01-14-2006 at 09:29 PM.
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