Auxiliary Fuse Box - 2nd Gen 4Runner
12-31-2005 | 08:03 PM
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Auxiliary Fuse Box - 2nd Gen 4Runner
Auxiliary Fuse Box Install on a 2nd gen 4Runner
By Corey
Corey shows you how he installed an auxiliary fuse box under the hood of his 4Runner to clean up a jungle of wires that were tapped into the in cab fuse box.
I had a jungle of wires tapped into my fuse box in the cockpit. They were for my 2 sets of Hella driving lamps, and for the rear lights under my bumper. Also the CB and the Warn Power Interrupt kit was also tapped in behind a fuse. This all created a jungle under there as seen below in the pictures. What I did after doing some research on YotaTech's Toyota forums was to go out and buy a 6 gang fuse box made by Buss Fuses. The part # for the Buss ATC fuse panel is BP/15600-06-20. Any automotive parts supply store should have this, or be able to order you one. It was less than $10, so it's not very expensive.
I also bought an 8 foot roll of 10 gauge wire, and a mini fuse blade holder to come off of the battery. I put a 30 amp fuse into it. It also has a cover on the fuse holder to seal it against water. The 30 amp fuse is way more than adequate as all the taps that are going to the box only require low amperage. The CB would be the biggest draw, as the light switches and the Warn switch only require a small amount of amperage to energize the relays that are under the hood. The relays themselves are wired directly to the battery with their own appropriate fuse.
This was very easy to wire up. The hardest part was deciding where to put it. I wanted to put it in the cockpit, but there was no room so to speak. I could have gone under a seat, but would have had to run a lot of extra wire.
The way I wired it up is the CB and the Warn each have their own line going out to the auxiliary fuse box. The 3 sets of switches controlling the lights are all wired together and go out the firewall with a single 14 gauge wire and tap in as one plug on the new box. This is perfectly safe as the switches require only low amperage.
Each circuit on the box is protected with a 15 amp blade type fuse. I wired this up so the box has power at all times. This way all the accessories can be used without having to have the key on. The only concern now is to not leave the CB or the lights on. No problem, they all light up very well, even in daylight you can see the CB and the switches glowing in the cockpit. You can use any amperage fuse you want to, but I had a box of about 30 15 amp fuses, so I am using them.
I highly recommend doing this if you also have a jungle of wires tapped into your fuse box inside. It's a much cleaner way of doing your wiring. In the near future I will be picking up the exact same box and using it to get all the wires off of my positive battery terminal. These wires are all for the relays that go to the lights, and other accessories.
Below are some pictures of the setup.
1. The jungle.
2. The parts including marine grade female connectors to go to the new box.
3. The 30 amp mini blade fuse holder.
4. Box all screwed onto the firewall, no taps yet.
5. The cockpits fuse box all back to normal.
6. Product all wired up with the the taps from the cockpit.
If you have any further questions, please contact Corey
By Corey
Corey shows you how he installed an auxiliary fuse box under the hood of his 4Runner to clean up a jungle of wires that were tapped into the in cab fuse box.
I had a jungle of wires tapped into my fuse box in the cockpit. They were for my 2 sets of Hella driving lamps, and for the rear lights under my bumper. Also the CB and the Warn Power Interrupt kit was also tapped in behind a fuse. This all created a jungle under there as seen below in the pictures. What I did after doing some research on YotaTech's Toyota forums was to go out and buy a 6 gang fuse box made by Buss Fuses. The part # for the Buss ATC fuse panel is BP/15600-06-20. Any automotive parts supply store should have this, or be able to order you one. It was less than $10, so it's not very expensive.
I also bought an 8 foot roll of 10 gauge wire, and a mini fuse blade holder to come off of the battery. I put a 30 amp fuse into it. It also has a cover on the fuse holder to seal it against water. The 30 amp fuse is way more than adequate as all the taps that are going to the box only require low amperage. The CB would be the biggest draw, as the light switches and the Warn switch only require a small amount of amperage to energize the relays that are under the hood. The relays themselves are wired directly to the battery with their own appropriate fuse.
This was very easy to wire up. The hardest part was deciding where to put it. I wanted to put it in the cockpit, but there was no room so to speak. I could have gone under a seat, but would have had to run a lot of extra wire.
The way I wired it up is the CB and the Warn each have their own line going out to the auxiliary fuse box. The 3 sets of switches controlling the lights are all wired together and go out the firewall with a single 14 gauge wire and tap in as one plug on the new box. This is perfectly safe as the switches require only low amperage.
Each circuit on the box is protected with a 15 amp blade type fuse. I wired this up so the box has power at all times. This way all the accessories can be used without having to have the key on. The only concern now is to not leave the CB or the lights on. No problem, they all light up very well, even in daylight you can see the CB and the switches glowing in the cockpit. You can use any amperage fuse you want to, but I had a box of about 30 15 amp fuses, so I am using them.
I highly recommend doing this if you also have a jungle of wires tapped into your fuse box inside. It's a much cleaner way of doing your wiring. In the near future I will be picking up the exact same box and using it to get all the wires off of my positive battery terminal. These wires are all for the relays that go to the lights, and other accessories.
Below are some pictures of the setup.
1. The jungle.
2. The parts including marine grade female connectors to go to the new box.
3. The 30 amp mini blade fuse holder.
4. Box all screwed onto the firewall, no taps yet.
5. The cockpits fuse box all back to normal.
6. Product all wired up with the the taps from the cockpit.
If you have any further questions, please contact Corey
Last edited by Bob_98SR5; 12-31-2005 at 08:09 PM.
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