towing 3rd gen 4runner behind RV???
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Aurora CO
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towing 3rd gen 4runner behind RV???
I'm interested in towing my 01 4runner behind my RV. What do I need to do to flat tow? If unable to flat tow, how about towing with a tow dollie? I have heard everything from; "oh yea, just put transfer case into neutral" to; "Cant do it, have to use a tow dollie and also disconnect drive shaft". Anyone out there know for sure?
#2
Contributing Member
tow dolly would be good and yes you will have to remove the drive shaft mark it first though i don't think you have to worry about the transfer case if on a dolly
Last edited by Elton; 05-08-2010 at 10:19 PM.
#4
Registered User
Fron the marlin crawler site and another thread here regarding flat towing a toyota 4x4
On all auto chain driven and manual gear driven t/cases, if it is towed in two wheel drive, the output shaft will turn, but there will be no way for the oil at the bottom of the case to get to the top where the output shaft is.
On the chain driven cases, the input shaft turns the planetary housing which drives the oil pump.
Gear driven cases use the input gear and low range gears to throw oil on the inside of the housing that collects the oil via gutters and directs it to the rear of the case by gravity.
Both style of cases, must have the input shaft spinning to lube the output shaft, speedo gears, and rear seal of the t/case.
The rear driveshaft must be removed.
Marlin Crawler
On the chain driven cases, the input shaft turns the planetary housing which drives the oil pump.
Gear driven cases use the input gear and low range gears to throw oil on the inside of the housing that collects the oil via gutters and directs it to the rear of the case by gravity.
Both style of cases, must have the input shaft spinning to lube the output shaft, speedo gears, and rear seal of the t/case.
The rear driveshaft must be removed.
Marlin Crawler
#6
Registered User
I have been told that you can just disconnect the shaft at the rear diff and tie it up out of the way though without having to pull the whole shaft. That's just a couple bolts I think.
#7
Registered User
X2 this is the way to do it if you have an automatic!! it is kinda a pain but without putting the whole thing on a trailer it is the option!!
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#8
Contributing Member
There are 4 bolts at each end of the driveshaft. You can just unbolt the rear and tie it up, but there's always a chance it could fall and drag. To be safe I would remove it completely. You can always leave it off and drive on the front if you don't want to re and re it every day.
#9
Registered User
There are 4 bolts at each end of the driveshaft. You can just unbolt the rear and tie it up, but there's always a chance it could fall and drag. To be safe I would remove it completely. You can always leave it off and drive on the front if you don't want to re and re it every day.
#10
Contributing Member
Or you can convert the rear axle to full float, install manual hubs and put them in "free".
http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfos...59aa44d33a61b6
http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfos...59aa44d33a61b6
#14
Registered User
I may suggest to be on the safe side that for the long haul across the country to disconnect and on short trips I would not worry about it too much...
That is MY Opinion!!
#16
Registered User
I have never heard of having to do this with a manual!!! with an automatic there is the issue of the torque converter and other things!!! with a manual I have always been told just to throw it in to neutral... However with a transfer case there may be hidden issues though I can not see too many!!
I may suggest to be on the safe side that for the long haul across the country to disconnect and on short trips I would not worry about it too much...
That is MY Opinion!!
I may suggest to be on the safe side that for the long haul across the country to disconnect and on short trips I would not worry about it too much...
That is MY Opinion!!
#17
Registered User
the front turning is not the issue, the post I mentioned from marlin deals with lubrication issues with the transfer case. If the rear driveshaft is in place then the rear driveshaft / x-fer output shaft turns without the front of the case moving which is essentially the oil pump. rear shaft and x-fer output shaft will turn regardless of trans auto or manual and/or x-fer case being in neutral. With a SFA or IFS if the hubs are not locked then the front axles/driveshafts will not turn = not an issue.
Now yes you can put the transmission in neutral and the x-fer case in 4 hi and lock the hubs, this will in turn tun the output shaft in the x-fer case to get fluid moving to the rear of the case, however it is not good to flat tow a transmission in neutral. Auto or manual. Especially an auto since its fluid pump is not pumping fluid to cool the trans as it turns. Not familiar with the way the manual trans moves its fluid around, but I can't imagine it being much different than the x-fer case.
I hope this clears some things up.
Now yes you can put the transmission in neutral and the x-fer case in 4 hi and lock the hubs, this will in turn tun the output shaft in the x-fer case to get fluid moving to the rear of the case, however it is not good to flat tow a transmission in neutral. Auto or manual. Especially an auto since its fluid pump is not pumping fluid to cool the trans as it turns. Not familiar with the way the manual trans moves its fluid around, but I can't imagine it being much different than the x-fer case.
I hope this clears some things up.
#18
Registered User
BTW working next to a cottman transmission place for a while I have seen first hand what happens when someone tries to flat tow a vehicle in neutral without removing the rear driveshaft behind an rv. It will grenade the entire transmission beyond repair.
#20
Registered User
Granville just to let you know i missed yur post about the exploded x-fer case my reply about the grenaded trans was just added by me for a wow factor, but it looks like I answered yur question.
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