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Polish and Wax Instructions
06-19-2008 | 03:38 AM
#1
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Joined: Oct 2005
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Polish and Wax Instructions
I have always waxed my cars but now I am learning that you need to Polish first.
It is 3 years old, good condition, and black but I have some scratches and some swirl marks.
I bought some Polish, scratch remover, and wax (Zymol).
I figured I would
1) Wash
2) Use Scratch remover on the couple of bad spots
3) Use the polish (rub on and rub off just like the wax)
4) Then Wax
Is that the proper way? Any advice or anything I should be careful of?
Thank you!
It is 3 years old, good condition, and black but I have some scratches and some swirl marks.
I bought some Polish, scratch remover, and wax (Zymol).
I figured I would
1) Wash
2) Use Scratch remover on the couple of bad spots
3) Use the polish (rub on and rub off just like the wax)
4) Then Wax
Is that the proper way? Any advice or anything I should be careful of?
Thank you!
06-19-2008 | 03:46 AM
#3
Contributing Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,261
Likes: 7
From: Siletz,Oregon
good info here http://autogeek.net/detailingtips.html
06-19-2008 | 03:56 AM
#4
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
Thanks...Not sure if I can afford a buffer right now plus my understanding is that if you really don't know what you are doing you can do more harm than good w/ a buffer.
I went to that link and now I am thinking I should also add a "Paint Sealer" to the list of steps (eg b/t polish and wax??). I do live in the North.......
1) Wash
2) Use Scratch remover on the couple of bad spots
3) Use the polish/sealant (glaze) Combo (rub on and rub off just like the wax)
4) Then Wax
I went to that link and now I am thinking I should also add a "Paint Sealer" to the list of steps (eg b/t polish and wax??). I do live in the North.......
1) Wash
2) Use Scratch remover on the couple of bad spots
3) Use the polish/sealant (glaze) Combo (rub on and rub off just like the wax)
4) Then Wax
Last edited by andrewmitch; 06-19-2008 at 05:03 AM.
06-19-2008 | 05:02 AM
#5
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 9,076
Likes: 0
From: Orlando, FL
http://pnw4runners.com/tando/wax/wax.htm
^^ all the info you will ever need about detailing a rig is at the link above.
Corey is the man when it comes to that stuff. He has a buffer and he's got some videos on his site that show how hard it is to ruin your paint with it.
I would recommend Griot's Garage for any and all things related to vehicle detailing/maintenance...this guy has everything.
Good luck,
Fink
^^ all the info you will ever need about detailing a rig is at the link above.
Corey is the man when it comes to that stuff. He has a buffer and he's got some videos on his site that show how hard it is to ruin your paint with it.
I would recommend Griot's Garage for any and all things related to vehicle detailing/maintenance...this guy has everything.
Good luck,
Fink
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06-24-2008 | 06:19 AM
#8
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 159
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So far I just polished and it looks great.
Later this week I will use Sealant (Klassee) for protection.
Then I was going to wax. BUT, someone told me that wax is abrasive. If that is the case then wouldn't the wax remove the Sealant? The point of the wax, I thought, was to protect the sealant and to add shine????
Later this week I will use Sealant (Klassee) for protection.
Then I was going to wax. BUT, someone told me that wax is abrasive. If that is the case then wouldn't the wax remove the Sealant? The point of the wax, I thought, was to protect the sealant and to add shine????
06-24-2008 | 07:15 AM
#9
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 32,242
Likes: 21
From: Auburn, Washington
So far I just polished and it looks great.
Later this week I will use Sealant (Klassee) for protection.
Then I was going to wax. BUT, someone told me that wax is abrasive. If that is the case then wouldn't the wax remove the Sealant? The point of the wax, I thought, was to protect the sealant and to add shine????
Later this week I will use Sealant (Klassee) for protection.
Then I was going to wax. BUT, someone told me that wax is abrasive. If that is the case then wouldn't the wax remove the Sealant? The point of the wax, I thought, was to protect the sealant and to add shine????
Wax seals the shine that polish puts on.
I just did my whole rig with
clay
polish
wax
this past weekend.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f5/g...ng-rig-147902/
I have been detailing rigs with the above process (and as seen by my sig file) since around '99 or so.
No problems...
06-24-2008 | 09:44 AM
#11
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 32,242
Likes: 21
From: Auburn, Washington
Here is the brand I use.
It is a big chunk, you use the whole thing, and I form it into a burger patty and use it with the holder that attaches to my Porter Cable random orbital.
You can also use a hand holder with it.
It is a big chunk, you use the whole thing, and I form it into a burger patty and use it with the holder that attaches to my Porter Cable random orbital.
You can also use a hand holder with it.
Paint Cleaning Clay
Now You Can Clean Paint Without Polishing And In A Fraction Of The Time With Our Paint Cleaning Clay
Regardless of how clean you think your paint is, there are still contaminants stuck on the paint that you need to remove before waxing or polishing your paint. Paint Cleaning Clay leaves behind an ultra-smooth surface that will make your wax adhere better and last longer, too. It also makes the wax much easier to buff out, reducing your "elbow grease" substantially. Clay is safe for all paint and also works great on glass to get it squeaky clean. To use, just remove the clay from the wrapper, spray the paint's surface with Speed Shine® (acts as a lubricating fluid), and rub the clay back and forth until there is no drag. This means your paint is clean! Unlike other cleaners and polishes, no buffing or hard circular motions are necessary. Takes literally one fourth the time as it would using paint cleaner! Follow up with Best of Show Wax® and your paint will look stunning! The large 8 ounce bar cleans about 7 vehicles, depending on the amount of contamination your surface is covered with. I urge you to try this clay. The results are amazing!
Now You Can Clean Paint Without Polishing And In A Fraction Of The Time With Our Paint Cleaning Clay
Regardless of how clean you think your paint is, there are still contaminants stuck on the paint that you need to remove before waxing or polishing your paint. Paint Cleaning Clay leaves behind an ultra-smooth surface that will make your wax adhere better and last longer, too. It also makes the wax much easier to buff out, reducing your "elbow grease" substantially. Clay is safe for all paint and also works great on glass to get it squeaky clean. To use, just remove the clay from the wrapper, spray the paint's surface with Speed Shine® (acts as a lubricating fluid), and rub the clay back and forth until there is no drag. This means your paint is clean! Unlike other cleaners and polishes, no buffing or hard circular motions are necessary. Takes literally one fourth the time as it would using paint cleaner! Follow up with Best of Show Wax® and your paint will look stunning! The large 8 ounce bar cleans about 7 vehicles, depending on the amount of contamination your surface is covered with. I urge you to try this clay. The results are amazing!
06-25-2008 | 03:38 AM
#12
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
I think the old bath towels I was using may have done some harm to the finish. I am going to buy some soft towels from the auto parts store tonight. Any advice on what to buy (or what not to buy)?
06-25-2008 | 05:11 AM
#14
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
From: Farmington,NH
I will second the clay. It removes the gunk like tar and crap that is stuck to your paint. (Great behind the wheels) It provides a smooth surface to then polish and wax over. I wouldnt wax my car if i didnt clay it first.
06-25-2008 | 05:58 AM
#15
Contributing Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 9,076
Likes: 0
From: Orlando, FL
I am really needing to do my Taco. I may just buckle down and do it by hand since I am still scared of the buffer...I'll need to do some elbow and wrist stretches before though.
What do you guys do about getting close to trim pieces and stuff?
I'm kind of ashamed but I've never waxed a car before...I know I know...NEWB.
Fink
What do you guys do about getting close to trim pieces and stuff?
I'm kind of ashamed but I've never waxed a car before...I know I know...NEWB.
Fink
06-25-2008 | 06:08 AM
#16
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,267
Likes: 1
From: Searcy, Arkansas
Bah.....it's a pita. Why would anyone do it themselves if they didn't have to. I'd almost rather wash dishes or plunge a toilet than wax & buff a vehicle. Maybe if I had an enclosed garage that wasn't packed with crap (other than my ride) I'd feel differently.
06-25-2008 | 06:09 AM
#17
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 32,242
Likes: 21
From: Auburn, Washington
Hey NEWB 
You can not hurt your paint with the Porter Cable since it is a random orbital.
I have mashed it down hard on purpose on my old 4Runner and the FJ.
Mr. Griots shows that in his video, and I also have shown that in one of my vids when I did the old rig.
Once you go with the Porter Cable, you will never switch back and do it by hand.
The Porter Cable is not to be confused with the high speed rotary buffers many detail shops use.
Those in the wrong hand can burn clear through your paint and leave swirl marks.
The PC setup however actually removes swirl marks.
Trim pieces, yes, irritating.
I got some BOS wax on my snorkel and the bottom trim pieces, and now they are white in those areas.
I have never tired it, but there are old posts here that say peanut butter takes the wax off of trim pieces.
I have some Griots Paint Prep which takes off grease and wax before you paint a rig, I may try removing my boo boos with it this weekend.
You can not hurt your paint with the Porter Cable since it is a random orbital.
I have mashed it down hard on purpose on my old 4Runner and the FJ.
Mr. Griots shows that in his video, and I also have shown that in one of my vids when I did the old rig.
Once you go with the Porter Cable, you will never switch back and do it by hand.
The Porter Cable is not to be confused with the high speed rotary buffers many detail shops use.
Those in the wrong hand can burn clear through your paint and leave swirl marks.
The PC setup however actually removes swirl marks.
Trim pieces, yes, irritating.
I got some BOS wax on my snorkel and the bottom trim pieces, and now they are white in those areas.
I have never tired it, but there are old posts here that say peanut butter takes the wax off of trim pieces.
I have some Griots Paint Prep which takes off grease and wax before you paint a rig, I may try removing my boo boos with it this weekend.
06-25-2008 | 06:48 AM
#18
Contributing Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 9,076
Likes: 0
From: Orlando, FL
Go ahead...flame away! Fink's a newb!
I may just buckle down and get one...I want to get my garage cleaned out so I can do it in there to keep dust and dirt from blowing on it.
It's mainly the black paint that has me concerned...what's awesome about this new paint is it has the pearl effect in it, so it actually helps cover small scratches...
I will look into the PC, I did get some bday money this past weekend that I could blow on it I guess.
Fink
I may just buckle down and get one...I want to get my garage cleaned out so I can do it in there to keep dust and dirt from blowing on it.
It's mainly the black paint that has me concerned...what's awesome about this new paint is it has the pearl effect in it, so it actually helps cover small scratches...
I will look into the PC, I did get some bday money this past weekend that I could blow on it I guess.
Fink
06-25-2008 | 07:04 AM
#19
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 32,242
Likes: 21
From: Auburn, Washington
It is an investment, but worth it.
Some of my links to the PC are dead, as I have not updated my old detail site in ages.
But once you get stocked up on:
clay
Speedshine
polish
wax
pads (orange for polish, red for wax)
You are good to go.
http://pnw4runners.com/tando/wax/detail1.htm
Looks like all of my links are dead, Griots did a major revamp in their file system.
One day I will update that page of mine.
But I do have the part numbers there.
Some of my links to the PC are dead, as I have not updated my old detail site in ages.
But once you get stocked up on:
clay
Speedshine
polish
wax
pads (orange for polish, red for wax)
You are good to go.
http://pnw4runners.com/tando/wax/detail1.htm
Looks like all of my links are dead, Griots did a major revamp in their file system.
One day I will update that page of mine.
But I do have the part numbers there.
06-25-2008 | 08:35 AM
#20
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,940
Likes: 2
From: Central NJ
I have been doing the same thing for years:
1. Claybar if you really want shine
2. Wash
3. Polishing compound
4. Wax
5. Back to black or similar product on all plastics
7. Aluminum/metal polish for bumpers and chrome
8. Windex and microfiber cloth for windows (100% streak free!!!)
9. Tire dressing if you wish.
To clean the brakedust off the tires nothing works better and is safer on the clearcoat than simple green. You dont have to do all the steps, and having a buffer makes life easier (as in my 15 dollar walmart one lol). But buying quality waxes and polishes is where its at, at least go for turtlewax and meguiers or mothers, the el cheapo stuff is pointless and doesnt last.
Im generally happy with wash, polish and wax, to much work otherwise.
1. Claybar if you really want shine
2. Wash
3. Polishing compound
4. Wax
5. Back to black or similar product on all plastics
7. Aluminum/metal polish for bumpers and chrome
8. Windex and microfiber cloth for windows (100% streak free!!!)
9. Tire dressing if you wish.
To clean the brakedust off the tires nothing works better and is safer on the clearcoat than simple green. You dont have to do all the steps, and having a buffer makes life easier (as in my 15 dollar walmart one lol). But buying quality waxes and polishes is where its at, at least go for turtlewax and meguiers or mothers, the el cheapo stuff is pointless and doesnt last.
Im generally happy with wash, polish and wax, to much work otherwise.
